The Green Chromide (Etroplus suratensis) is also known by tropical fish keeping enthusiasts as the Pearl Spot, Banded Pearl Spot, Banded Chromide, Banded Etroplus, Karimeen, or Pearlspot Cichlid.

It is native to Sri Lanka and possibly Peninsular India, Peninsular Malaysia and Singapore however, it is believed to have been introduced to India and Malaysia for aquaculture in the early 1950s.

The Green Chromide cichlid inhabits brackish estuaries, coastal lagoons, the lower reaches of rivers and a number of freshwater habitats including a number of inland lakes.   It is a hardy species that can breath atmospheric air.

The Green Chromide has a green, greenish brown, or gold tinted oval shaped body with six dark vertical bars on the body (excluding those on the head and caudal peduncle).   Gold spots are distributed over the body of the fish, primarily on the upper half.

Compared to other cichlid species, the Green Chromide keeps a “slender” body profile.   Although there is no sure visible way to determine the sex of Green Chromides; males that are the same age as females tend to be larger and during breeding, the males develop more intense colors and black occipital stripes between the eye and opercle.   Females will develop a reddish, swollen, modified ovipositor during breeding.

The Green Chromide is a relative peaceful species that can be kept in fresh or brackish water aquariums with other Asian cichlids, Archer Fish, or similar sized loaches with the same water parameters.   Etroplus suratensis can live in freshwater environments, but they prefer brackish water conditions.

Because of their size, they need a large aquarium of at least 100 gallon capacity with a fine sand or gravel substrate, lots of rock caves and driftwood for them to hide among, and plenty of open swimming space.   They are a shoaling species and in an aquarium environment should be housed with at least 8 or more of their own kind to minimize any aggressive behavior.   They become aggressive and will eat smaller tank mates when confined in a smaller sized aquarium.

Green Chromides are substrate spawners that may also use caves as spawning sites.   Wild fish in Sri Lanka breed twice a year from December to April and again from June to September during the pre monsoon and monsoon seasons.   During these periods, water salinity increases and the water becomes cleaner.

In an aquarium environment, because they are sexually mature within a year, it is best to place a group of juvenile Green Chromides together until they pair off.    Spawning can be induced by gradually increasing the salinity in the breeding tank to replicate the seasonal monsoons.  Put several flat rocks in the aquarium and slowly increase the salinity in the tank to a brackish level.  As the water becomes brackish, pairs will begin digging pits to use as nests.

Once the pair select a rock or other site to lay their eggs on, they will defend the surrounding area against all intruders until the eggs are deposited.    The female will deposit her eggs on the flat rocks where they are attached to the substrate with short filaments and will hatch, depending on water temperature, within 48 to 72 hours.

After the fry have hatched out, the parents will move  the fry for their protection, to the “nursery pits”  that they excavated around the spawning site until their egg sacs are absorbed and they become free swimming (in about 3 to 4 days).

During this time, like Discus, the fry remain with the adults and will graze on their parents’ body mucus until they are fully free swimming.   The fry can be then be fed newly hatched baby brine shrimp, rotifers, or finely crushed flake food.   Both parents stay with the eggs and brood at all times until they are capable of fending for themselves.

Adult Etroplus suratensis are easy to feed and will accept a quality flake and pellet food as a staple diet, along with vegetable matter in the form of lettuce, spinach, peas, Spirulina wafers, and fresh, frozen or freeze dried bloodworms and brine shrimp.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Minimum Tank Size: 100 gallons
Care Level: Moderate
Temperament: Relatively Peaceful with similar sized fish
Aquarium Hardiness: Moderately Hardy
Water Conditions: 72°F-80°F° F, KH 10-25, pH 7.0-8.0
Max. Size: 16 inches
Color Form: Green, Yellow, Brown
Diet: Carnivorous
Compatibility: OK with Other Asian cichlids or loaches of similar size
Origin: Sri Lanka
Family: Cichlidae
Lifespan: 6-12 years
Aquarist Experience Level: Advanced

Largescale Archerfish (Toxotes chatareus) are also referred to by tropical fish keeping enthusiasts as the Sevenspot Archerfish and are frequently mixed with Banded Archer Fish (Toxotes jaculatrix) and sold generically as “archer fish“.

Largescale Archerfish are found in the warm water mangrove swamps of Burma, India, Indonesia, Pakistan, Bangladesh, Sri Lanka, Myanmar, Thailand, Vietnam, Laos, Cambodia, New Guinea and northern Australia.   In the Mekong River, they are found as far north as Thailand and Laos.

These interesting fish live in shaded areas of dense growth around overhanging vegetation in brackish mangrove swamps and estuaries, but also frequent freshwater rivers, streams, ponds and lakes.

Largescale Archerfish have 5 or 6 dorsal spines with the fourth being the longest, and 12 to 13 soft dorsal rays.

Brackish water specimens have longer dorsal spines than those collected from freshwater areas.   They also have 3 anal spines with 15 to 17 soft rays and an almost square tail fin.

Largescale Archerfish have a sooty, to silvery or gold body color that is greenish brown on the dorsal side.   Their pectoral fins are dusky to clear colored, and their pelvic fins are usually darker and heavily pigmented.

Largescale Archerfish are generally peaceful but may eat much smaller fish in a confined aquarium environment.   They can be aggressive to their own kind, but keeping them in small groups of 5 to 6 specimens will minimize aggression.   In a large brackish water aquarium, they do well with Scats, Monos, Green Chromides and other species of Archer fish.

Like their cousins the Banded Archer Fish (Toxotes jaculatrix) and the Smallscale Archerfish (Toxotes microlepis), their mouths are adapted to spit jets of water over a considerable distance to knock insects, butterflies, moths, bugs, etc. into the water where they can easily feed on them.

Largescale Archerfish can be kept in a large brackish water aquarium densely planted with mangrove roots and other salt tolerant plants, a sandy gravel aggregate with some driftwood, and a few rocks.   Water flow should be kept to a minimum, and the tank water level should be dropped by a few inches to prevent the fish from jumping out of the tank.   A high tank cover is a must for these fish.

Alternately, some tropical fish keeping enthusiasts choose a biotope setup using a large, tall tank, half filled with brackish water with a section of dry land planted with mangrove roots and salt tolerant plants in the upper regions of the tank.   This type of setup promotes the natural feeding behavior of the fish.

Both types of setups need relatively slow water movement, enough lighting to promote plant growth, and good filtration.

Although Largescale Archerfish have been recorded breeding in freshwater in the wild, to date they have never been bred in an aquarium environment. In the wild they have been reported laying huge numbers of eggs numbering in the tens of thousands.

Wild Largescale Archerfish feed on both terrestrial and aquatic invertebrates of various types including small fish on occasion. Archer fish are famous for their unique feeding behavior and their ability to shoot jets of water at insects on overhanging vegetation. The insects fall into the water and are eaten.

When using the biotope paludarium setup described above, their feeding behavior can be replicated by introducing flies or crickets into the setup.   When the insect makes the mistake of venturing onto an overhanging leaf, it will be picked off by the archer fish.

If using a standard freshwater or brackish water tank setup, feed them a variety of live, frozen or freeze dried insects, flies, meal worms, plankton, bloodworms, brine shrimp, and vegetable matter.   They can be taught to accept floating foods such as flakes or pellets, but occasional treats of live or dried insects should be provided.

Largescale Archerfish are not as common as the Banded Archer Fish (Toxotes jaculatrix) and when available, demand a higher price.   They are often mixed with other species of Archer Fish and when available for purchase are juveniles at  2-1/2″ to 4″ in length.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Minimum Tank Size: 125 gallons
Care Level: Moderate
Temperament: Peaceful
Aquarium Hardiness: Moderately Hardy
Water Conditions: 77-86 °F°, 20 – 30°H, pH 7.0-8.0
Max. Size: 16″
Color Form: Black, Yellow
Diet: Omnivore
Compatibility: Freshwater or multiple species brackish water tank
Origin: Indo Pacific
Family: Toxotidae
Life Span: 10 years
Aquarist Experience Level: Advanced

 

The Banded Archer Fish (Toxotes jaculatrix) also known to tropical fish keeping enthusiasts as the Common Archer Fish or Archer Fish, is found in river mouths and estuaries in the waters of the Indo Pacific, northern Australia, from India east to the Philippine Islands, the waters of the Solomon Islands and the Indonesian Archipelago.

The Banded Archer Fish has four dorsal spines, 11 to 13 soft dorsal rays, and three anal spines.   The fish is silvery in color tinged green, with an olive green to brown back and four to six distinct broad black bars or semi-triangular markings along it sides.   It has an oblong, triangular shaped body with large eyes positioned for binocular vision, a head that is slightly shorter than the body, and a distinctly pointed snout.

Juvenile Banded Archer Fish are sometimes colored a yellow green or brown on the dorsal side and more silvery on the ventral side.   The flanks are usually a gray green color.   Some juveniles have irregular yellow patches between their bands.

The Banded Archer Fish (Toxotes jaculatrix) and its relative the Largescale Archerfish (Toxotes chatareus) are sometimes grouped and sold together under the generic label “archerfish“.

The Banded Archer Fish has four dorsal spines whereas the Largescale Archerfish has five.   Also, the Banded Archer Fish usually has four to five semi-triangular bands, compared to the Largescale Archerfish which has six or seven spots and shorter bands in a regular, alternating pattern and is a more sooty color.

Banded Archer Fish are also often confused with the Smallscale Archerfish (Toxotes microlepis).   Both species have four or five wedge shaped bands, but those of the Banded Archerfish extend to the dorsal fin and in the Smallscale Archerfish they do not.   There are also two spots on the dorsal fin separate from the main bar in the Smallscale Archerfish.

All Archer Fish are best known for their unique ability to shoot down their prey (primarily insects) with a jet of water. Their mouths are adapted to spit jets of water over a considerable distance to knock insects, bugs, etc. into the water. Large specimens are capable of accurately shooting a jet of water up to 10 feet away but what is more remarkable is their ability to compensate for water refraction.

Banded Archerfish frequently move between fresh, brackish, and salt water during their lifetimes; but not necessarily for breeding purposes.

All Archer Fish are difficult to maintain in an aquarium environment and should only be kept by advanced tropical fish keeping enthusiasts.

Banded Archer Fish require a large tightly covered tank of at least 125 gallon capacity which should be densely planted with low to medium height plants. A sandy or fine gravel substrate, some rocks and driftwood and plenty of surface room for practicing their “shooting” skills should complete the decor.

Keep the water level of the tank a few inches below normal levels (video above) to allow the fish to practice their shooting skills and minimize any chance of the fish jumping from the tank.

All species of Archer Fish do well in either fresh or brackish water conditions but should be kept in small groups of 3 to 5 fish.   In a brackish water tank they can be housed with Scats, Monos, Puffer fish and other archer species.

Little is known about the breeding habits of the Banded Archerfish but they are capable of breeding when they reach about 4″ in length.   They reproduce by spawning and they normally lay between 20,000 to 150,000 eggs at one time.   Although there are reports of them breeding in captivity, very little success has been reported.

In the wild, Archer Fish come to the surface in the daytime to “shoot down” and feed on insects, floating matter, small fish, and crustaceans.   They also jump out of the water to grab small prey from low hanging branches.

In an aquarium environment they can be induced to eat a variety of live or dried insects, flies, mealworms, freeze dried plankton, and vegetable matter such as dried seaweed fed at the surface on a lettuce clip.

They can also be taught to eat floating omnivore flakes but they prefer to shoot and capture live food rather than being fed flake foods which makes it somewhat problematic to feed them.

Banded Archer Fish are relatively common in the aquarium trade and when available for purchase are anywhere from 2-1/2″ to 4″ in length.

 

 

 

 

 

 

Minimum Tank Size: 125 gallons
Care Level: Moderate
Temperament: Peaceful
Aquarium Hardiness: Moderately Hardy
Water Conditions: 77-86 °F°, KH 9-19, pH 7.0-8.0
Max. Size: 12″
Color Form: Black, Yellow
Diet: Omnivore
Compatibility: Freshwater or multiple species brackish water tank
Origin: Indo Pacific
Family: Toxotidae
Life Span: 10 years
Aquarist Experience Level: Advanced

Mono Argentus (Monodactylus argenteus) is also known to tropical fish keeping enthusiasts as Mono Fish, Silver Moony, Moonfish, Silver Moonfish, Diamond Moonfish, Diamondfish, Mono, Silver Batfish, Fingerfish, Kitefish, Singapore Angelfish, or Malayan Angel.

Mono Argentus are widely distributed inland and throughout the coastal areas of the Red Sea, Australian coast, Eastern AFrica and Southeast Asia.

Mono Argentus is diamond-shaped, with a flat body that is shiny silver in color, with two vertical black stripes on the front half of the fish.

The first extends through the eye and the other just behind it, through the gill cover.   The dorsal fin has a yellow tint with a black outline.   The anal and caudal fins are colored a light yellow.

Juveniles have a brighter  yellow dorsal fin which adds to their appeal to tropical fish keeping enthusiasts.

Mono Argentus are nervous, peaceful fish that should be kept in schools of at least 6 or more specimens.   Because they grow quite large, they need at least a 55 gallon tank as juveniles.   As they become larger, they should be transitioned into a brackish water environment and placed into at least a 125 gallon aquarium.

Mono Argentus are the quintessential brackish water species.   They are lively, durable, attractively patterned, active, entertaining and mix well with scats and other brackish water species.

They should be housed in a strong brackish water or marine tank with an aragonite sand or gravel substrate, lots of rocks and plants that can survive brackish water, moderate water movement, and good filtration.

Although Mono Argentus spawn in the ocean, the difference between the sexes and their breeding habits is unknown.  The Monodactylus Argenteus has not been successfully bred in captivity however, there have been reports of accidental spawning activity which has never been successfully duplicated.

In the wild, Monos eat small fish, shrimp, and large amounts of vegetable matter.  In an aquarium environment they should be provided with dried Spirulina, Seaweed, algae, peas, lettuce, brine shrimp,  small bits of shrimp, bloodworms, and a quality omnivore flake food.

This species of Monodactylus, Mono Argentus (Monodactylus argenteus) is commonly available in tropical fish keeping shops as juveniles in sizes; Small: 3/4″ to 1-1/2″ and Medium: 1-1/2″ to 2-1/2″.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Minimum Tank Size: 125 gallons
Care Level: Moderate
Temperament: Semi-aggressive
Aquarium Hardiness: Moderately Hardy
Water Conditions: 75-82° F, KH 8-12, pH 7.2-8.4
Salinity: 1.006
Max. Size: 11″
Color Form: Silver, White, Black
Diet: Omnivore
Compatibility: Multiple species brackish water tank
Origin: Thailand
Family: Monodactylidae
Life Span: 7 years
Aquarist Experience Level: Intermediate

Mono Sebae (Monodactylus sebae) are collected from the mangrove swamps and estuaries of West Africa, Gambia, the Canary Islands and Senegal to Angola.

Mono Sebae are found in fresh, brackish, and marines environments and are also known to tropical fish keeping enthusiasts as the African Moony. Guinean Fingerfish, Rambali Finger Fish, Mono, and African Mono

The Mono Sebae has a flat, diamond shaped body with a larger anal fin than it’s close relative, Mono Argentus.

Mono Sebae are silver with a black line covering the eyes, a second line coming down from the front of the dorsal fin behind the gill plate to the front of the anal fin, and another line coming down from the tip of the dorsal fin to the rear tip of the anal fin.   Juveniles exhibit a tinge of yellow on the dorsal fin which fades with age.

Their coloration and general health can be maximized by gradually changing their environment from brackish to saltwater as the fish grow older.

Mono Sebae grow large and as adults require an aquarium of at least 125 gallons.   Smaller specimens are frequently kept in freshwater, but as they grow and mature, they should gradually be converted to a higher water salinity in a larger tank.

Monos can be kept with other brackish water fish such as Puffers, Scats, Dragon Gobies, other Monos, and Archer Fish.   The tank should dimly lit with an aragonite sand or gravel substrate, and decorated with rocks and plants (such as mangroves) that thrive in brackish water environments.

Except for the fact that Mono Sebae are egg layers and spawn in a marine environment, little is known about the differences between sexes and their breeding habits.

Mono Sebae eat fish, shrimp, zooplankton and a great deal of vegetable matter in the wild.   In an aquarium environment they should be fed dried seaweed, dried Spirulina, lettuce, brine shrimp and a high quality omnivore flake food.

Monodactylus sebae are usually available to tropical fish keeping enthusiasts and are moderately priced.   When available for purchase they are usually juveniles at a size of 1-1/2″ to 2-1/2″.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Minimum Tank Size: 125 gallons
Care Level: Moderate
Temperament: Peaceful
Aquarium Hardiness: Moderately Hardy
Water Conditions: 75-82° F, KH 8-12, pH 7.2-8.4
Salinity: 1.006
Max. Size: 10″
Color Form: Silver, Black
Diet: Omnivore
Compatibility: Multiple species brackish water tank
Origin: Coastal West Africa
Family: Monodactylidae
Life Span: 7 years
Aquarist Experience Level: Intermediate

The Imperial Tiger Plecostomus L-134 (Peckoltia compta) is also known to tropical fish keeping enthusiasts as the Leopard Frog Pleco, Leopard Pleco or Tiger Pleco.

Imperial Tiger Plecos are found in moderate to fast flowing water over rocky bottoms, as well as the still, slower moving waters and tributaries of the Rio Tapajós (Pimental) and Rio Jamanxim, Pará in Brazil. Most specimens are collected from the rio Tapajós, near the village of Pimental, downstream from the confluence with rio Jamanxim however, aquarium collectors also work the area in the rio Jamanxim around ilha da Terra Preta.

Peckoltia compa are favorites of tropical fish keeping enthusiasts because of their small size. Adults only reach a little over 4 inches in length and are great candidates for peaceful community aquariums.

The Imperial Tiger Plecostomus or Leopard Pleco is a beautiful species that is relatively easy to identify. Juvenile specimens have a yellow background with a black to dark brown variably striped pattern.

Older, more mature specimens are darker and display more stripes in the color pattern. This species is distinguished from all of its relatives by the clear stripe inside the dark brown bars running from snout tip to anterior margin of the eyes.

Male Pecoltia compta develop teeth like odontodes on the leading pectoral fins and the back half of the fishes body. Females lack the odontodes and generally have a wider girth when measured just behind the pectoral fins and viewed from above.

Given enough space and hiding places, the Imperial Tiger Pleco is peaceful and will come out during daylight hours to feed.

The Imperial Tiger Pledcostomus (L134) is best kept with other peaceful species in a South American biotope setting in at least a 30 gallon tank with a fine gravel or sandy substrate, rocks (for caves), driftwood or bogwood roots, plenty of swimming area, and sufficient places for them to hide. Plants are not necessary but can be added for aesthetic purposes and cover however, because they are collected from highly oxygenated rivers in their native habitat, they do need well filtered water with a moderate degree of current and frequent water changes to keep them healthy.

The Leopard Frog Pleco is a cave spawner that has been bred in an aquarium environment. Placed in a tank with a lot of rockwork or half of a clay flower pot, they will usually breed when an artificial change in season is induced.  This can be accomplished by lowering the tank water temperature and increasing the quality and quantity of water with frequent partial cooler water changes. The females lay their eggs in a cave where they hatch out in about 5 to 7 days. The fry will be free swimming in 3 to 5 days and should be fed newly hatched baby brine shrimp and finely crushed flake food.   Frequent water changes should be maintained during the rearing process.

Leopard Frog Plecos are omnivorous but do not eat much algae.   They should be fed a varied diet of sinking omnivore pellets or wafers, a quality flake food, and fresh, frozen or freeze dried bloodworms, tubifex, mosquito larvae, and brine shrimp.   Lettuce, cucumber, peas and zucchini should also be offered on a regular basis. This is one species of plecostomus that also needs wood in their diet so bogwood or driftwood should be included in the tank decor.

The Imperial Tiger Plecostomus or Leopard Pleco is not a common resident of tropical fish shops and when available demand a high price. When available they are usually 2 1/2″ to 3 1/2″ in length.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Minimum Tank Size: 30 gallons
Care Level: Moderate
Temperament: Peaceful
Aquarium Hardiness: Relatively Hardy
Water Conditions: 75.2-82.4°F, GH 0-12 ° dH, pH 5.0 – 7.4
Max. Size: 4.3″
Color Form: Black, Yellow
Diet: Omnivore
Compatibility: Good community tank
Origin: Brazil
Family: Loricariidae
Live Span: 10 years
Aquarist Experience Lever: Intermediate

 

The Spotted Scat (Scatophagus argus) is known to tropical fish keeping enthusiasts as the Common Scat, Green Scat, Argus Fish,Butter fish, Spotted Butt, Spotted Butterfish, Spotted Scad, Spadefish, or Leopard Scat.

Although it is distributed throughout the Indo Pacific, most aquarium specimens are collected from the fresh and brackish waters in and around Thailand.

The Spotted Scat normally inhabits brackish estuaries, freshwater streams, mangroves, and natural embankments.   They start their lives out in freshwater and as they mature, move into brackish, and eventually a totally marine environment.

The Spotted Scat has a compressed, squarish body with a steeply slanted head profile.   The body is colored a shiny silver with a light greenish cast and is covered with black spots all across the body extending onto the fins.

Juveniles are more rounded in shape and become more square as they mature.   Juvenile Green Scats are brown or green with black leopard like spots over the body and some stripes on the head.   As the juveniles mature, they lose their stripes and their body color becomes silvery or bronze.

In mature adults, the spots are often faded and visible only on the back and upper parts of the fish.

In the wild, the Spotted Scat can reach a length of 15″ but in an aquarium environment, they usually grow to 6 or 8 inches in length, depending on the size of the tank.

Spotted Scats are a peaceful species that do best in groups of at least four or five.  They are lively, curious, outgoing and will quickly become tame and accustomed to the company of their keepers.

Many tropical fish keeping enthusiasts keep them in mixed schools with Monos, and except for some aggressive species, Spotted Scats will get along well with most other types of larger fish.

They will usually not bother other fish unless they are small enough to be considered on their menu.

To begin with, juvenile Spotted Scats need a tank of at least 60 gallons when they can be kept in freshwater, however, as they grow, they should be gradually transitioned to brackish and eventually salt water to keep them in top condition.    They need a fine gravel or sand substrate with driftwood branches or roots for them to hide among.   Plants can be added to their tank but will be eaten as the fish grow.

The addition of 2 to 3 teaspoons of marine salt per gallon of tank water will initially keep Spotted Scats healthy and bring out their colors.   As they mature, they require additional salt added to their water until a marine salinity is achieved.

Because Spotted Scats are sloppy eaters and extremely sensitive to nitrites, they need a good biological filtration system with plenty of water movement and swimming space to thrive.   Weekly tank maintenance with 20 to 30% water changes are also required.

In the wild, Spotted Scats feed on worms, insects, crustaceans, and plant matter.   In an aquarium environment they will eat almost anything put into their tank.   They are more herbivorous than many other brackish water species and need a good amount of vegetable matter such as algae, dried or fresh seaweed, blanched spinach or lettuce, zucchini or cucumber slices, and frozen peas. Occasional feedings of shrimp, brine shrimp, mysis shrimp, or bloodworms will keep their diet balanced.

Spotted Scats normally spawn in saltwater reefs.  Like Salmon, Eel, and Trout, the fry will swim to freshwater where they grow and then return to a more brackish or salt water environment.   For this reason, they have never been bred in captivity.

The Spotted Scat (Green Scat) and Red Scat (or Ruby Scat) are both readily available to tropical fish keeping enthusiasts however the price of the red version is usually much higher than that of the more common green variety.

Purchase size is usually around 2″ to 2 1/2″.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Minimum Tank Size: 60 gallons
Care Level: Moderate
Temperament: Peaceful
Aquarium Hardiness: Moderately Hardy
Water Conditions: 68-82° F, 12 – 18 dGH, pH 7.5-8.5
Max. Size: 15″
Color Form: Silver, Green, Black
Diet: Omnivore
Compatibility: Multiple species brackish water tank
Origin: Thailand
Family: Scatophagidae
Lifespan: 20 years
Aquarist Experience Level: Advanced

The Red Scat (Scatophagus argus arromaculatus) is found in muddy coastal areas and is found only in Sri Lanka, New Guinea, and Australia.   They live in estuaries, harbors, around mangroves and in the lower courses of rivers where the waters are brackish to marine in salinity.

There are two color morphs of Scatophagus argus which are both popular with tropical fish keeping enthusiasts.   The common  Spotted  or Green Scat (Scatophagus argus), and the Ruby or Red Scat (Scatophagus argus arromaculatus).

The Red Scat (Scatophagus argus arrowmaculatus) is also known to tropical fish keeping enthusiasts as the Read headed Scat or Ruby Red Scat and during the late 1960s and 70s,  Scats were also called the “poor man’s discus.”

Scatophagus argus, are basically bronze in color, marked with numerous small brown or black spots on the body flanks.

As the fish mature, the spots on the body become darker, the bronze become brassier in hue, and their spots become little less distinct, especially on the lower half of the body.

A gradual change from brackish water to saltwater will maximize the colors of the fish as they become older and improve their general health and well being.

The Red Scat has a strongly compressed body with a steep dorsal head profile and a rounded snout, with red blotches along the dorsal surface of their body, particularly on the top part of the head and below the dorsal fin.

As the fish matures it develops a more humped back.

The Hooghly River scat closely resembles normal Scatophagus argus, but the dark blotches on the flanks are larger and often merge into short bands.

Red, or Ruby Red Scats need an aquarium of at least 125 gallons with plenty of plants and places to hide.   Although they can be kept in fresh water, they do best in a brackish water environment with 3 to 4 teaspoons of sea salt per 2.5 gallons of water.   Choose plants that thrive in brackish water environments.

Scatophagus argus arromaculatus can adapt to varying salinities.    As fry, they are found in freshwater, but as they mature they move into saltwater environments and eventually into the ocean to spawn.   They do not live in temperate waters.  To date not much is known about sexing the Red Scat or their breeding habits.

Red Scats are indiscriminate eaters and were named for their purported habit of feeding on offal.   As juveniles, they seem to prefer zoo plankton in their diet but as adults they are primarily herbivores.

In an aquarium environment they should be fed mainly vegetable based foods with occasional offerings of meaty foods.    Fresh, frozen or freeze dried seaweed, lettuce, algae, a quality flake food and occasionally brine shrimp will keep them healthy.

The Red Scat is readily available to tropical fish keeping enthusiasts and are sold as juveniles between 1″ and 2″ in length.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Minimum Tank Size: 125 gallons
Care Level: Moderate
Temperament: Peaceful
Aquarium Hardiness: Moderately Hardy
Water Conditions: 68-82° F, KH 8-12, pH 7.5-8.5
Max. Size: 12″
Color Form: Tan, Yellow, Red
Diet: Omnivore
Compatibility: Multiple species brackish water tank
Origin: Sri Lanka, New Guinea, and Australia
Family: Scatophagidae
Lifespan:  20 years
Aquarist Experience Level: Advanced

The Orange Saddle Fugu Puffer (Takifugu ocellatus) is found in Asia, primarily China and Vietnam and is often collected from the Yangtze River during breeding season.

The Orange Saddle Fugu Puffer (Takifugu ocellatus) is also referred to by tropical fish keeping enthusiasts as the Fugu Puffer, Fugu Ocellatus, Orange, or Saddleback Puffer.

The Orange Saddle Fugu Puffer has an olive green back, a white belly and orange eyes.

Just above and behind the pectoral fins, there are two thick black dots outlined in orange to yellow that are connected to each other by a thin line over the back.

There is also a black dot outlined with orange to yellow about the dorsal fin of the fish.

Gender differentiation is difficult to impossible but during breeding season, the bellies of the female are larger than the males.

The Obscure puffer (Takifugu obscurus) looks similar to Takifugu ocellatus and is likely a related species however, the lines around its black markings are cream colored to white, not orange and it grows considerably larger (up to 16″).

The Orange Saddle Fugu Puffer requires a large, heavily brackish to salt water aquarium with a fine sandy substrate and some rockwork, preferably live rock and plenty of swimming space.   They enjoy burrowing into the sand where they can easily hide and ambush their prey and because they are fast swimmers and easily startled, they need plenty of swimming room.

Orange Saddle Fugu Puffers are extremely sensitive to ammonia and nitrites and must only be introduced into a completely cycled aquarium.

Because Takifugu ocellatus are messy eaters, they should have an overcapacity filter on their tank along with a protein skimmer to remove unwanted pollutants and ensure water quality.

The Orange Saddle Fugu Puffer or Saddleback Puffer is frequently collected in fresh and brackish water rivers during the breeding season.   For this reason it is erroneously sold by many tropical fish keeping shops as a freshwater species.  Consequently, they are not long lived in fresh water and should be gradually acclimated to heavy brackish or saltwater.

In the wild Orange Saddle Fugu Puffers eat crustaceans, mollusks, sea anemones and hard corals.   They are definitely not considered a “reef safe” species.

Although Takifugu ocellatus  has not been successfully bred in this country, it has reportedly been successfully bred in captivity at Nanjing University in 1997.

In an aquarium environment, the Orange Saddle Fugu Puffer is easy to feed and with the exception of fish, will eagerly accept and even beg for live and frozen foods such as krill, snails, shrimp, scallops, mussels, bloodworms, clams and other shellfish.

Takifugu ocellatus is seasonally available to tropical fish keeping enthusiasts and is usually moderately priced.

 

 

 

 

 

 

Minimum Tank Size: 55 gallons
Care Level: Moderate
Temperament: Aggressive
Aquarium Hardiness: Moderately Hardy
Water Conditions: 73-80° F, 7–12 kH, pH 7.9 – 8.4
Salinity: 1.010-1.024 (later in life seawater)
Max. Size: 6″
Color Form: Green, Black, Orange
Diet: Carnivore
Compatibility: Single species tank
Origin: China, Vietnam
Family: Tetraodontidae
Lifespan: Unknown
Aquarist Experience Level: Advanced

 

African Red-eyed Tetras (Arnoldichthys spilopterus) are found in the streams and rivers of the Ogun and lower Niger river delta systems in Nigeria, and are known to tropical fish keeping enthusiasts as the Large Scaled African Characin, Red Eyed Characin, or Niger Tetra.

The African Red-eyed Tetra is most distinguished by their huge scales. The males are more colorful than the females and possess dark stripes in the anal fin. They also tend to be slimmer than sexually mature females.

The African Red-eyed Tetra is scarce in the wild and not usually available to tropical fish keeping enthusiasts.

It is a peaceful, hardy, highly active schooling species that does well in a West African themed community aquarium with other Alkestid tetras, small Synodontis spp., or dwarf cichlids like Pelvicachromis pulcher.   They should be kept with at least 10 other specimens when housed in a single species tank.

Arnoldichthys spilopterus is a perfect candidate for larger community tank settings. As juveniles, African Red-eyed Tetras like to form into shoals, but when fully grown they tend to become less active and hang in a corner of the tank waiting to be fed.

Although Arnoldichthys spilopterus can be kept in hard, slightly alkaline water, they do best in soft peat filtered water that mimics their natural habitat in the wild of tannin stained water littered with decaying organic matter.

In an aquarium environment, they require Well filtered water with some current, a densely planted, dark soil, fine gravel or sand substrate, some driftwood, a bit of smooth rockwork, and plenty of swimming space. Regular water changes are necessary to keep the fish healthy and maintain water quality.

Although breeding African Red-eyed Tetras is not that difficult, most tropical fish keeping enthusiasts do not make the attempt. Provide a breeding pair with a well planted, dimly lit 20 gallon tank with soft, acidic water and frequent water changes.   Lower the water and feed the pair plenty of live food to induce spawning.

The female disperse up to 1000 eggs among the plants that will hatch out in about 30 hours. After the egg sacs have been absorbed (around 24 hours) the fry should be given infusoria until they are free swimming (3 to 4 days) at which time they should be fed baby brine shrimp, Daphnia, , or the like.   When fed well, the fry grow extremely fast and in about two months should be approximately 1 1/2 inches long.

African Red-eyed Tetras are omnivorous but prefer live, frozen or freeze dried foods along with a quality flake food.   Bloodworms, tubifex, daphnia, and brine shrimp are all eagerly accepted.

The African Red-eyed Tetra is not a common resident of tropical fish shops but are available online and from specialty fish shops. When available for sale, they are 1 2/2″ to 2 1/2″ in length.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Minimum Tank Size: 30 gallons
Care Level: Moderate
Temperament: Peaceful
Aquarium Hardiness: Hardy
Water Conditions: 73-82° F, KH 4-8, pH 6.0-7.5
Max. Size: 3″
Color Form: Bronze, Silver
Diet: Omnivore
Compatibility: Suitable for peaceful commuinty tanks
Origin: Nigeria
Family: Alestidae
Lifespan: 7 years
Aquarist Experience Level: Beginner

The Three Beacon Plecostomus (Leporacanthicus triactis) originates from South America, specifically the upper Orinoco River basin in Colombia and Venezuela.    It is also known to tropical fish keeping enthusiasts by the names 3 Beacon Pleco, Three Beacon Pleco, Redfin Blackspot, Tiger Fin Pleco, and Dragon Fin Pleco.

The Three Beacon Plecostomus like all plecos, has a small backwards facing thorn like plate on top of its head.  The upper teeth in their sucker mouths are long with fleshy like tentacles on the lip.  Their lower lip is round and they have a narrow, pointed head.

Depending on their age, sex, mood, and surroundings; they can be colored brown on gray to a charcoal black.   They all have three vivid orange to yellow bloches on their non paired fins; hence their common name.

The males generally have more pronounced colors,  a broader and longer head with small odontodes on the sides, and additional odontodes over their body and on their pectoral fin spine.  Adult males also have larger dorsal fins than the females.

Although Leporacanthicus triactis can be somewhat aggressive with other plecos, they are generally very peaceful in a community tank environment as long as they are not housed with too many other bottom dwellers.

Because of their size, the Three Beacon Plecostomus should be housed in a large, (at least 125 gallons for adults) densely planted tank with a fine gravel or sandy substrate, some rockwork, a few large pieces of driftwood or bogwood, and plenty of areas for them to hide among.   They need a powerful filter system that can deliver a high oxygen content and should be provided with regular water changes to keep them healthy.

The Three Beacon Plecostomus does well with most small to medium community fish like Tetras and South American cichlids, smaller loaches and catfish, but in order to minimize territorial disputes, should not be housed with larger plecos or catfish species.

Three Beacon Plecos are cave spawners, but it is unclear whether they dig their own burrows in the vertical clay mud walls of riverbanks or just take up residence in already fashioned holes. 

In their natural river habitat, during the rainy breeding season, hundreds of these holes can be seen occupied by males waving their brightly colored fins competing for females to mate with.  

With other similar plecostomus species, two or more females will visit the cave of the male and lay their eggs for the male to guard.   Although this is probably true with Leporacanthicus triactis, it has not yet been absolutely confirmed.  

Unfortunately, as of this date spawning has not been accomplished in an aquarium environment.

The Three Beacon Plecostomus is an omnivore that will accept a wide variety of foods, including
algae wafers, cucumber, zucchini, live, frozen or freeze dried bloodworms, prawns, shrimp as well as omnivore sinking tablets.  The seem to prefer shelled crustaceans or mollusks but these foods should be used given sparingly and mainly for conditioning.

The Three Beacon Plecostomus is not common with tropical fish keeping enthusiasts, probably because of their availability.  When available online or in specialty tropical fish shops, they can be juveniles from 1 1/2″ to 2 1/2″ in length or adults and demand relatively high prices.

 

 

 

 

 

 

Minimum Tank Size: 90 gallons
Care Level: Moderate
Temperament: Peaceful
Aquarium Hardiness: Hardy
Water Conditions: 71-79° F, KH 4-8, pH 6.4-7.6
Max. Size: 9.7″
Color Form: Black, Orange
Diet: Omnivore
Compatibility: OK community tank fish
Origin: Venezuela, Colombia
Family: Loricariidae
Live Span: 8-10 years
Aquarist Experience Lever: Intermediate

The Red Tail Zebra Loach (Schistura mahnerti) is a species of the stone loach family Nemacheilidae that inhabits the fast flowing, well oxygenated streams of Thailand and  Myanmar.

Schistura mahnerti are found in the Salween River which flows from the Himalayas eastward and forms the border of Thailand and Burma.   In the Salween River the environment varies from slow to fast moving waters which are sometimes bordered by heavily vegetated shorelines where the fish opportunistically feed on insect larvae and plant  matter.

The Red Tail Zebra Loach is also known by tropical fish keeping enthusiasts as the Burmese Border Sand Loach, the Salween Hillstream Loach, the Red Tail Sand Loach, or Vietnam Red Tail Zebra Loach and is frequently misidentified in tropical fish keeping shops as the Zebra or Burmese Border Loach which are both members of the Botia genus.

Red Tail Zebra Loaches have elongated bodies with flat bellies and a striped body pattern.   They have at least 9 caudal rays and as the fish mature, their pectoral and caudal fins take on a strong reddish hue.

They have a bold zebra type pattern of dark vertical bands encircling a light golden to silverish colored body.   The bands are wider across the top and gradually narrow as they reach the mid-section and encircle the bottom.

The striped body pattern is common to many Schistura species and resemble the split bands of the Zebra or Tiger Loach up front, but turn into thick solid bands towards the tail.   The males also have suborbital flaps that are absent in some other species.

Red Tail Zebra Loaches are best housed in a cooler “river” type aquarium environment with well oxygenated moderate water movement and subdued lighting.   They prefer a sandy or fine gravel substrate with some water worn river rocks, some driftwood roots and a few shade tolerant plants like Java Fern or Java Moss for them to hide among and rest on.

They require Weekly water changes of at least 30% to keep them healthy.  An oversized water filter or canister filter and a powerhead should replicate their natural habitat.

Like other Hillstream Loaches, the Red Tail Zebra Loach enjoys the company of at least 3 or more of their own kind.   They do well in a community tank environment with other peaceful fish and usually only play among themselves, however, they are territorial and should be given hiding places where they can retreat to.

Although Schistura mahnerti have been reportedly bred in Thailand, little is known of their breeding activity and to date they have not been bred in an aquarium environment.

Feeding the Red Tail Zebra Loach can sometimes be tricky.  In an aquarium environment they will eat all kinds of live foods such as mosquito larvae, small insects, bloodworms, brine shrimp, Daphnia, tubifex, snails and some vegetable based foods like Spirulina or algae wafers.

They will also accept sinking omnivore tablets and cichlid pellets in addition to their live, frozen, or freeze dried food diet.   Feed them small portions two to three times a day rather than one large portion daily.

Although they are quite pretty, the Red Tail Zebra Loach is seldom available in tropical fish keeping shops.   When available, they are usually 2″ to 2 1/2″ in length.

 

 

 

 

 

 

Minimum Tank Size: 30 gallons
Care Level: Moderate
Temperament: Semi Aggressive
Aquarium Hardiness: Moderately Hardy
Water Conditions: 73-79° F, 5-18 dGH, pH 6.0-6.9
Max Size: 3″
Color Form: Silver, Tan, Red
Diet: Omnivore
Compatibility: Good community tank fish
Origin: India, Burma, Thailand
Family: Balitoridae
Lifespan: 8-12 years
Aquarist Experience Level: Intermediate

The Gold Zebra Loach (Botia histrionica) is also known by tropical fish keeping enthusiasts as the Burmese Loach, Golden Zebra Loach, Asian Loach, Silver Striped Loach and Burmese Zebra Loach.

The Gold Zebra Loach is found from the Indian state of Manipur, Yunnan Province, China (in the upper Ayeyarwady River basin), and throughout much of Myanmar including the Ayeyarwady, Sittaung, Salween, and Ataran river drainages. The Gold Zebra Loach is also believed to inhabit the streams of western Thailand and occurs sympatrically with B. kubotai in the Ataran River.

Gold Zebra Loaches prefer the relatively slow moving, clear, headwaters of rivers and streams with subdued lighting conditions found in shady forest areas. They are usually found over substrates of mixed sand and rock with lots of leaf litter and submerged bogwood or driftwood cover.

Juvenile Gold Zebra Loaches have 5 broad, irregular shaped black bars on each body flank and are frequently confused with juvenile B. kubotai. They are differentiated by the bars of B. kubotai being split or developing horizontally oriented peaks, while B. histrionica‘s bars stay solid for a longer period and the central bar forms a “Y” shape with a pale spot at the top.

Adult Botia histrionica have 5 broad, irregularly shaped bars on the body that each contain a small round spot at the lateral line and another on the ridge of the back.   Their dorsal fins have one interrupted black band with some black at the base.  The pectoral, ventral and anal fins each have two black bands with a black tip on each lobe.

It should be noted that the patterns of Botia histrionica can vary considerably depending on the geographical area that they are collected from.

Sexually mature females normally have a fuller body than the males and a more rounded snout. Males have a more elongated snout with noticeably fleshier lips.

Immature Gold Zebra Loaches are often misidentified and sold as B. kubotai, B. almorhae, or B. rostrata. However, as they mature and develop their adult color patterns, each species quickly becomes more identifiable to their owners.

Gold Zebra Loaches are peaceful, gregarious, curious and are well suited for community tank environments.   Like many members of the Botia genus, they are a nocturnal species but will forage in the daytime if provided heavy cover and numerous spots for them to hide.

In an aquarium environment, Botia histrionica can be kept singly or in small groups of 3 to 6 specimens. Although they are generally peaceful, when in groups they will establish a hierarchy by size and can have disputes until territories are established.  They are peaceful with other species.

The Gold Zebra Loach does best in a large (55 gallon or more) tank with a sand or fine gravel substrate, lots of smooth, water worn rocks and pebbles, some driftwood roots and branches, and plants like Java Fern, Java Moss or Anubias spp. that do well in subdued lighting.

They need plenty of cover for hiding and exploring and although they don’t necessarily require turbulent water conditions, they do best in well oxygenated water with a moderate flow.   They are intolerant of organic wastes and need regular water changes to remain healthy and happy.   A power head or canister filter can be used to simulate these conditions.

There are no documented cases of Gold Zebra Loaches being bred in an aquarium environment although, cooler water changes have initiated courtship displays.

Gold Zebra Loaches are not picky eaters and do well on a diet of high quality flake or pellet foods supplemented with live, frozen, or freeze dried bloodworms, tubifex worms, brine shrimp, etc. They will readily accept omnivore sinking wafers and a variety of fresh vegetables. Like their cousins the Clown Loach, they are avid snail eaters and will quickly eliminate a population from an aquarium.

Gold Zebra Loaches are a specialty item in most tropical fish keeping shops and when available are 2″ to 3″ in length.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Minimum Tank Size: 55 gallons
Care Level: Moderate
Temperament: Peaceful
Aquarium Hardiness: Hardy
Water Conditions: 76°-84°F, KH 5-10, pH 6.4-7.6
Max Size: 5″
Color Form: Black, Tan
Diet: Omnivore
Compatibility: Social with peaceful, open water dwelling cyprinids
Origin: India, Bangladesh
Family: Cobitidae
Lifespan: 6 years
Aquarist Experience Level: Intermediate

The Snowball Plecostomus (Baryancistrus sp.) LDA33 is another beautiful South American sucker catfish that is indigenous to Brazil’s – Pará, RioTapajós and Rio Xingu.

The Snowball Plecostomus is also known by tropical fish keeping enthusiasts as the Snowball Pleco, Big White Spot, Big White Spot Pleco, White Spot Pleco, LDA33, and L142.

Baryancistrus sp. have black bodies with large white to yellowish spots that cover their entire body including their fins.   Sexes are difficult to distinguish but males tend to have more pronounced pectoral fins with small bristles than females.   Their caudal fins are concave.

The Snowball Plecostomus is somewhat territorial with other bottom feeding species, but in a large tank they tend to keep to themselves.

The Snowball Plecostomus is a shy, nocturnal species that hides during daylight hours.  They acclimate well to aquariums and prefer areas of dense cover away from bright lights.

They do best in a relatively large, densely planted aquarium with subdued lighting, a fine gravel or sandy substrate, some driftwood or bogwood, and rock caves for them to hide in during the day.   They need plenty of places for them to hide and do best with real driftwood which they feed on in addition to their normal diet.

These plecostomus need highly oxygenated water with plenty of water movement to replicate their natural river environment. Along with regular water chang3es, a power head and canister filter should provide the necessary environment to keep them healthy and happy.  Avoid extremes in temperature and pH with these fish.

To date the Snowball Plecostomus has never been bred in an aquarium environment.

Feeding the Snowball Plecostomus is relatively easy. They do well with a varied diet that includes algae wafers, green vegetables, sinking pellets, live, frozen or freeze dried brine shrimp, tubifex, and bloodworms.

Snowball Plecostomus are not common in tropical fish keeping shops and demand a relatively high price when they are in stock. They are usually available as juveniles when they are 1 1/2″ to 3″ long.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Minimum Tank Size: 55 gallons
Care Level: Moderate
Temperament: Territorial with other bottom dwellers
Aquarium Hardiness: Hardy
Water Conditions: 74-82° F, KH 5-15, pH 6.4-7.8
Max. Size: 12″ in the wild
Color Form: Black, White
Diet: Omnivore
Compatibility: great community tank fish
Origin: Brazil
Family: Loricariidae
Live Span: 12 years
Aquarist Experience Lever: Intermediate

The Red Rainbowfish (Glossolepis incisus) is also know to tropical fish keeping enthusiasts as the Salmon-Red Rainbowfish, Irian Red Rainbowfish, New Guinea Red Rainbowfish, Lake Sentani Rainbowfish and Irian Jaya Rainbowfish. It is endemic to Lake Sentani and its tributaries located near Jayapura in Papua, Indonesia.

Red Rainbowfish are found around aquatic vegetation and bogwood that is found around the margins of Lake Sentani as well as in the clear, rapidly moving waters of the lake’s tributaries where they feed on insects that drop into the water as well as a variety of plant matter.

The Red Rainbowfish is a long, slender, relatively large fish that reaches a length of 6 inches in its natural habitat. Mature males have an arched back with a narrow head and the large eyes, deeply forked mouth, and two dorsal fins typical of other rainbowfish species. Males have a brilliant blood red body and fins accented with silver scales. Females and juvenile males are generally colored a dull olive brown with clear to gray fins.

The brilliant red colors of the Red Rainbowfish are impacted by several factors including water quality, temperature, food, age, health, ranking in the school and even their mood.

For example; in a water temperature of 71 to 72 degrees, all the males in the tank will be red and the females a silvery, yellow tinged color.   With higher water temperatures; the dominant male will be colored red, while the other males in the tank will be reddish brown in color.

Like most rainbowfish, the Red Rainbowfish is an extremely active swimmer that should be kept with at least 6 or more of its own kind in a large aquarium environment of at least 55 gallons in capacity.   As they grow, they will eventually need a much larger tank to keep them healthy.

These fish do best in a single species tank that mimics their natural environment.  A large densely planted tank with a sandy substrate, some

bogwood, some rock work and plenty of swimming area will suit them adequately.  A canister filter and a power head will help provide the necessary current in the tank and keep the water clean. To bring out the best colors in the males, use a red spectrum light and keep the tank temperature in the 70 degree range.

Red Rainbowfish are relative easy to breed in an aquarium environment. Set up a breeding tank with a sponge filer in a densely planted tank of fine leaved plants or a bare aquarium with several spawning mops and introduce a healthy conditioned pair of adult rainbowfish to the tank.

When the female has produced her eggs, the male or males in the tank will display their intense colors and direct the female to the spawning site to spawn and then briefly rest. After spawning, the plants or spawning mop should be removed to a rearing tank for the eggs to hatch. The breeding pair will continue breeding in this manner for several days until the number of eggs produced diminishes and the female shows signs of fatigue.

The eggs should hatch out in about a week at which time the fry can be fed infusoria or liquid fry food until they are able to eat newly hatched brine shrimp.  The fry grow slowly and need fresh, clean water during the rearing process which lasts about two months. Do not cross breed Red Rainbowfish with other species.

Red Rainbowfish require a high quality diet to promote their natural coloration. Live, frozen, freeze dried and processed foods are essential to their well being and bloodworms, tubifex worms, water fleas (daphnia), or brine shrimp should be fed at least twice a week to supplement their prepared flake food diet. These fish are also able to eat live or freshly killed insects like flies, ants and the like.  Feed them only what they can eat in 3 to 5 minutes, twice or three times a day.

The Red Rainbowfish are sold as Salmon Red Rainbowfish, Red Irian Rainbowfish, and New Guinea Red Rainbowfish online and in specialty pet stores as juveniles and occasionally adults in a variety of sizes.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Minimum Tank Size: 55 gallons
Care Level: Moderate
Temperament: Peaceful
Aquarium Hardiness: Very Hardy
Water Conditions: 70.0 to 79.0° F, 8 – 25 dGH, pH 6.5-8.5
Max. Size: 6”
Color Form: Red
Diet: Omnivore
Compatibility: OK with like sized peaceful species
Origin: Lake Sentani, Papua, Indonesia
Family: Melanotaeniidae
Lifespan: 6-8 years
Aquarist Experience Level: Beginner

The Lake Kutubu Rainbowfish (Melanotaenia lacustris) is known by tropical fish keeping enthusiasts as the Turquoise Rainbow or Blue Rainbowfish, and is only found in Lake Kutubu and its outlet in the southern highlands in Papua New Guinea.   Lake Kutubu is fed mostly from underground springs that filters through a limestone substrate which creates a highly alkaline (pH 8.5-9.0) environment for the species.

The Lake Kutubu Rainbowfish is a strikingly colored fish with a beautiful intense cobalt blue or blue green (teal) on the upper half of the body,fading to a silvery white to  gold on its lower half.

They have large eyes that is a characteristic of all rainbowfish, a black or silver band that runs through the middle row of scales at their lateral line, two dorsal fins and a deeply forked mouth.

Their fins have a slightly blue tinge with black edges that show up during spawning.   Unlike other rainbowfish species, Melanotaenia lacustris is capable of rapidly changing its colors in a matter of seconds and can throughout the day can display many different color patterns.

Lake Kutubu Rainbowfish are very active swimmers and should be kept in a tank of at least 30 gallons however, because of their size when fully grown, a 55 gallon tank is recommended as the minimum for housing a school of adults.

Turquoise Rainbowfish do best in a single species tank with at least 6 or more of their own kind. Because of their “Vulnerable” status on the IUCN Red List of Threatened Species, and to prevent cross breeding, they should not be mixed in with other species of rainbowfish.

Melanotaenia lacustris can also be housed in a community aquarium and are compatible with similar sized species such as the Tetras, Rasboras, Danios, Discus, Angels, Barbs, Dwarf Gouramis, Livebearers, Corydoras, Plecos, and other species of scavenger Catfish.

Lake Kutubo Rainbowfish are best kept in a tank that simulates their natural lake habitat. They should be provided a densely planted tank with a

dark colored sandy substrate, some bogwood, a few smooth river rocks and plenty of swimming room. They need hard, alkaline, well filtered water with little to no water movement at a temperature of 70-77 degrees F.   When planting the aquarium, choose species that can tolerate the water conditions needed by these fish.

Sexing juvenile Lake Kutubo Rainbowfish is difficult, but as they mature the adult males are more colorful, become more aggressive, and develop an arched back typical of the species.

Breeding Lake Kutubu Rainbowfish is a relatively easy proposition once a pair is identified.   Place a conditioned group of two females to three males into a breeding tank with some fine leaved plants, Java Moss, or a few spawning mops and raise the water temperature to about 78 degrees F. When the females have produced eggs, the males will display their intense colors and urge the female to a spawning site, spawn and then rest.   The process will be repeated for a number of days until egg production ceases.

As the eggs are deposited, remove them from to a breeding tank with a seeded air sponge filter.  The fry will hatch out after ten days or so and are will be free swimming 24 hours later.   Feed the tiny fry infusoria or finely crushed flake food until they are able to consume newly hatched baby brine shrimp.   The fry grow slowly, even under ideal conditions.

In Lake Kutubu, Turquoise Rainbowfish feed on small crustaceans, insect larvae and algae.   In an aquarium environment they should be offered a balanced diet of live, frozen and freeze dried daphnia, brine shrimp, bloodworms, tubifex and quality pellet or flake foods. Feed them only what they can consume in 3 to 4 minutes, several times a day in lieu of single large portions.

The Lake Kutubu Rainbowfish is sold to tropical fish keeping enthusiasts as juveniles under the names Turquoise Rainbowfish or Blue Rainbowfish.   They are somewhat difficult to obtain and demand higher prices than other species of rainbowfish.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 
Minimum Tank Size: 55 gallons
Care Level: Moderate
Temperament: Peaceful
Aquarium Hardiness: Very Hardy
Water Conditions: 70.0 to 79.0° F, 9 – 25  dGH,  pH 7.0-8.5
Max. Size: 4.9”
Color Form: Blue, Green
Diet: Omnivore
Compatibility: OK with like sized peaceful species
Origin: Lake Kutubo, Papua New Guinea
Family: Melanotaeniidae
Lifespan: 5-8 years
Aquarist Experience Level: Beginner

The Banded Rainbowfish (Melanotaenia Trifasciata) is found in the northernmost part of Australia, however their range is extremely limited. In the Northern Territory they can be found in the Mary River, Melville Island, Arnhem Land, and Groote Eylandt. On the Cape York Peninsula, an isolated population lives in the McIvor River, and they are also found north of the Archer River.

Banded Rainbowfish are mostly found in small, gravel or rocky bottomed clear water streams and creeks, that often become littered with leaves and other debris during the dry seasons when they are forced to live in stagnant ditches and puddles with little to no water movement.

They inhabit a variety of habitats including swamps, lagoons, lakes, and rivers in densely grown semi rain forests, to the open savannahs shadowed by Eucalyptus and other trees along the banks of the waterways. Banded Rainbowfish are subject to seasonal changes in temperature, water levels, and dissolved sediments, and can tolerate pH values from 5.2 to 7.0 in their geographical range. They are extremely hardy in an aquarium environment but develop their best colors in slightly acidic water.

The Banded Rainbowfish is a stunning species that grow to over 5″ in length and in the wild are found in a plethora of color variations.

As adults, the fish have dorsal, anal, and caudal fins that are red, orange, or yellow in color. The upper part of the body can be colored red, green, blue, purple, yellow or gold. Most specimens have a distinct blue to blackish colored mid lateral stripe and in most populations, older males have a deep body with a humped forehead.

Banded Rainbowfish are not difficult to care for. They can be kept in a community aquarium with other peaceful species with the same water requirements, or in a single species biotope setting.   Because this rainbowfish can be quite skittish, it should be kept in shoals of at least 6-8 of its own kind, preferably more. One male to two females is an ideal grouping, and males will display their best colors in the company of conspecifics.

They do best in a densely planted 30 gallon or larger aquarium, with a gravel or sandy/gravel substrate, some driftwood roots for them to hide among, plenty of swimming space, and slightly acidic (down to pH 5.2) water. The water temperature in the tank should be kept in the 73-80 degrees F range.

Banded Rainbowfish are egg scatterers and prolific spawners that will readily breed in the aquarium. Although sexing can be tricky, the first dorsal fin in males will normally be longer than in females. Keeping at least two females for each male is recommended.

Although Banded Rainbowfish have been bred in alkaline conditions, acidic water is recommended for this species. Get the pair or trio into breeding condition with live, frozen, or freeze dried daphnia, bloodworms, tubifex or brine shrimp in addition to their normal flake food diet. When the females are plump, place the fish into a spawning tank with Java Moss or spawning mops and no substrate. Properly conditioned females will lay at least 50 eggs a day on the spawning mops or moss and continue for some time.

When the eggs are laid, remove them to a separate rearing tank with a “seeded” air powered sponge filter for circulation. The eggs usually hatch within a week to ten days and the tiny fry will absorb their eggs sacs and become free swimming approximately 24 hours later. Feed the fry infusoria, liquid fry food or powdered flake food until they are large enough to take newly hatched baby brine shrimp.

Adult Banded Rainbowfish are not fussy eaters and will accept most freeze dried, frozen, and live foods. Regular feedings of live and frozen foods will produce the most vivid colors in adult fish.

Like other rainbowfish, adult Banded Rainbowfish specimens are seldom available for sale. The more drab juvenile fish that are usually offered for sale to tropical fish keeping enthusiasts are usually 1 3/4″ to 2 1/2″ in size.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Minimum Tank Size: 55 gallons
Care Level: Moderate
Temperament: Peaceful
Aquarium Hardiness: Very Hardy
Water Conditions: 75.0 to 91.0° F, 8 – 20 dGH, pH 6.5-8.0
Max. Size: 4.5”
Color Form: Red, Yellow, Orange, Blue, Green
Diet: Omnivore
Compatibility: OK with like sized peaceful species
Origin: Northern Australia
Family: Melanotaeniidae
Lifespan: 5-8 years
Aquarist Experience Level: Beginner

Praecox Rainbowfish (Melanotaenia praecox) are also known by tropical fish keeping enthusiasts as the Dwarf Rainbow, Dwarf Neon Rainbow, Praecox Rainbow, and Neon Rainbow.

The Praecox Rainbowfish lives among roots, logs, and other vegetation in the swifter moving streams and tributaries that are adjacent to the main river channels, marshes, and swamps of West Papua, New Guinea in Indonesia.

Praecox Rainbowfish are peaceful, active schooling fish that are known for their large eyes, deeply forked mouths, black or silver band that runs through their lateral rows of scales, and their two dorsal fins.

Their bodies are generally a bright iridescent blue color with scarlet to reddish orange colored, translucent edged fins.

The Praecox Rainbowfish or Dwarf Neon Rainbow is a great community tank species than can be kept with other similarly sized rainbowfish, danios, barbs, Characins, dwarf cichlids, gobies and relatively smaller sized catfish species like Corydoras.   When kept in a single species tank they should be kept with at least 6 or more of their own kind and not mixed in with rainbowfish of other species.

All rainbowfish do best in a densely planted aquarium with a sandy or fine gravel bottom substrate, a few river rocks, some driftwood or bogwood roots, and plenty of free swimming space.

Melanotaenia praecox are egg layers that scatter their eggs over mossy substrates.   In an aquarium environment, they breed freely and should be segregated to prevent inbreeding of species.

Separate an adult pair by selecting a group and conditioning them in a breeding tank with plenty of live, frozen or freeze dried foods.

When the females are noticeably plump and the males are displaying themselves to each other, separate the best looking pair and move them into a spawning tank equipped with a seeded air driven sponge filter, some fine leaved plants, Java Moss or a spawning mop and no aggregate.   The water should be alkaline (pH 7.0), slightly hard, and at a temperature of 75-80 degrees F.

If you raise the water temperature slightly, spawning can sometimes be induced. The pair will lay several batches of eggs each day for a period of several weeks. The eggs are attached to the plants or spawning mop by a fine small thread.   Because the parents are likely to eat their eggs, its best to remove each batch as they are laid to a rearing tank where they will hatch in about 7 to 10 days. After their eggs sacs have been absorbed, feed the tiny fry infusoria or liquid fry food until they are able to eat newly hatched baby brine shrimp.  Praecox Rainbowfish usually produce larger broods than other species of rainbowfish.

Praecox Rainbows have large mouths but their throats are narrow, so feeding them large foods is not advisable.  A steady diet of high quality flake food mixed with fresh, frozen and freeze dried bloodworms, brine shrimp, daphnia, mosquito larvae, etc. will keep them healthy and disease free.

When available, Praecox Rainbowfish are usually 1″ to 2″ in size and are moderately priced.

 

 

 

 

 

 

Minimum Tank Size: 20 gallons
Care Level: Easy
Temperament: Peaceful
Aquarium Hardiness: Very Hardy
Water Conditions: 64-72° F, KH 8-12, pH 5.8-6.5
Max. Size: 3”
Color Form: Blue, Red
Diet: Omnivore
Compatibility: Great community tank species
Origin: West Papua, New Guinea
Family: Melanotaeniidae
Lifespan: 5-8 years
Aquarist Experience Level: Beginner

Boeseman’s Rainbowfish (Melanotaenia boesemani) are found in the Vogelkop Peninsula of Western New Guinea (formerly Irian Jaya) in the tributaries of Lakes Ayamaru, Hain, and Aitinjo where they inhabit densely vegetated, swampy shallow areas and feed on small insects, aquatic crustaceans, and some vegetation.   Tropical fish keeping enthusiasts also know Boeseman’s Rainbowfish as the Bicolor Rainbow fish, Bicolor Rainbow, and Boesemani Rainbowfish.

The Boeseman’s Rainbowfish has the typical rainbow fish shape. They are long, deep bodied, with an arched back, two dorsal fins, a narrow head and relatively large eyes.

Wild caught and correctly bred Boeseman’s Rainbowfish have intense colors that make them a popular choice for large single species or community aquariums.   The back half of the males are a fiery red with orange and yellow highlights. The front half of the fish is a deep indigo blue or purple color.

The two colors intersect in the middle of the body with a few green to blackish vertical stripes. The fins are generally opaque and yellow, outlined in white. At a length of about 2 1/2″ the fish begin to develop their characteristic colors which grow more vivid as they age.

Like other rainbowfish, Melanotaenia boesemani display different color intensities and color variations that are dependent on where they are collected from. Genetics, age, water quality, food, health and other factors all have an impact on their colors.

Female Boeseman’s Rainbowfish are basically the same color as the males but with more silver in the body. They are also more drab than males of the species.

Male Boeseman’s Rainbowfish will grow to 4.5 ” in length while females max out at about 4″. At around 2.5 inches in length, these fish will begin to develop their beautiful characteristic colors.

Like most rainbowfish species, Boeseman’s Rainbowfish are most at home in a densely planted aquarium with a sandy or fine gravel substrate, some driftwood and plenty of swimming space.

They like clean, hard, alkaline conditions with moderate water movement. Because of their size and the fact that they are active almost all of the time, they should be housed in at least a 30 gallon aquarium, but a 55 gallon or larger is preferable.

Boeseman’s Rainbowfish are schooling fish and should be kept with at least 6 or more of their own kind with an equal male to female ratio if possible to bring out the most of their colors. They are fine in community aquariums with like sized, fast moving species but do best in a biotope setting that mimics their natural habitat with other rainbow fish.

Boeseman’s Rainbowfish are moderately easy to breed. Set up a long breeding tank with a sponge filer and a spawning mop or a bunch of fine leaved plants for them to deposit their eggs on. Select a healthy pair and condition them with protein rich live and vegetable based foods until the female has produced eggs and is ready to spawn. The male will lead the female to a spawning site where several eggs will be laid on the plants or the spawning mop and fertilization occurs. The spawning procedure will be repeated for a few days with fewer eggs being laid at each session until spawning is completed. Most breeders insure that the fry are not eaten by the parents by removing the eggs to a rearing tank with an air driven sponge filter.

At 72 degrees, the eggs will normally hatch within a week and the fry will be free swimming 24 hours later. Feed the fry infusoria or liquid foods until they are able to eat newly hatched baby brine shrimp, or daphnia which usually takes about a couple of weeks. The fry grow slowly and until they are about two months old need a lot of care. Clean water is essental in the rearing tank.

Do not crossbreed rainbowfish. In the wild they will not interbreed with other species however, in an aquarium environment they frequently do so. Unfortunately, the offspring of interbreeding do not display the vivid colors expected, and actually lose coloration. Keep the bloodlines pure when breeding rainbowfish of the Melanotaeniidae family.

The Boeseman’s Rainbowfish are opportunistic feeders in the wild. They have a diet of insects, small crustaceans and vegetable matter. In an aquarium environment, they should be fed a high quality flake food with periodic feedings of live, frozen or freeze dried bloodworms, brine shrimp, tubifex, daphnia, etc.

The Boeseman’s Rainbowfish is available in many tropical fish shops and online as the Bicolor Rainbowfish or Boesemani Rainbowfish. They are moderately priced and slightly more expensive than other species of rainbowfish and are generally sold as juveniles at a size of 1 3/4″ to 2 1/2″ in size.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Minimum Tank Size: 30 gallons
Care Level: Moderate
Temperament: Peaceful
Aquarium Hardiness: Very Hardy
Water Conditions: 70.0 to 79.0° F, 8 – 25 dGH, pH 6.5-8.0
Max. Size: 4.5”
Color Form: Red/Orange, Blue
Diet: Omnivore
Compatibility: OK with like sized peaceful species
Origin: Western New Guinea
Family: Melanotaeniidae
Lifespan: 5-8 years
Aquarist Experience Level: Beginner

The Australian Rainbowfish (Melanotaenia fluviatilis) is also referred to by tropical fish keeping enthusiasts as the Murray River Rainbowfish, Crimson-spotted rainbowfish, and Inland Rainbowfish.

Australian Rainbowfish are indigenous to Australia and can be found in the densely vegetated rivers, streams, ditches, swamps, and ponds with relatively clear, calm water.  Like most rainbowfish, they tend to congregate in schools around logs, stickups and grassy riverbanks where they can easily feed on small insects and crustaceans.   In the areas where they are found, the pH is normally high (8.0 or more) however, during seasonal changes they migrate into lower pH areas of around pH 6.0.

The Australian Rainbowfish is extremely hardy and very adaptable. They can endure temperatures from the low 60s to the high 70s and still remain healthy.  Because of the changing , naturally harsh environments that these fish are found in, they are extremely tolerant to water condition changes and can fight off most aquarium diseases.   For this reason they make a perfect starter fish for new tropical fish keeping enthusiasts.

Australian Rainbowfish have slender bodies, an arched back, two dorsal fins, and a narrow head with relatively large eyes.   In adult males, the base body color is an olive green or bluish brown, sometimes with a dark horizontal striped lateral line, and a rosy pink belly.

They have rows of scales that reflect turquoise and green, and a thin reddish stripe that can sometimes be seen between the scales.   The fins are all clear with a reddish tint, and along the margin of the male’s dorsal, anal, and front margin of the pelvic fin are outlined in black; especially during breeding.

During breeding, the body colors of male Australian Rainbowfish intensifies to an emerald green however, the location that the fish originated from can cause significant variations in their overall color patterns.

Female Australian Rainbowfish are a more drab version of the males.

Australian Rainbowfish do best in an aquarium that simulates their natural habitat.   A densely planted tank with a sandy substrate, some bogwood and plenty of swimming space is all that is needed to keep these fish health and happy.   If possible, place the tank where it can get a couple hours of sunlight during the day.   They prefer hard alkaline water but will thrive in a wide range of conditions, as long as the water is well filtered and moderate water movement is provided.

Although Australian Rainbowfish do well in a community tank with other active, peaceful, similarly sized fish; they are especially suited for a single species tank with other rainbowfish of the same species.   They do best in groups of at least 6 to 10 individuals that are equally male to female. Although they are generally non aggressive, they are extremely active and playful and can bully some slower swimming species.   House them with other active, playful, non aggressive species for the best outcome.

Australian Rainbowfish are easy to breed however with these species, be careful with crossbreeding.   In the wild, Rainbowfish will not

intermingle with other species however, in an aquarium environment, rainbowfish in the Melanotaeniidae family will interbreed.   Unfortunately, the offspring are usually drab, even as adults.

The best way to breed these fish is to set up a long breeding tank with a sponge filter and a spawning mop, some Java Moss, or several fine leaved plants like cabomba.

Place a conditioned pair of Australian Rainbowfish into the tank and continue feeding them high protein foods like bloodworms, tubifex, or mosquito larvae until the female has produced eggs.   When this occurs, the male will lead the female to the spawning site and then fertilize the eggs.

At this point its a good idea to remove the eggs from the breeding tank and place them into a rearing tank.   The pair will repeat the breeding ritual for several days with fewer and fewer eggs being deposited until they show signs of tiring.

The fry in the rearing tank will hatch out in a week or so and after their eggs sacs have been absorbed, should be fed infusoria or liquid fry food until they are able to ingest larger fare.   The fry are slow growers and need clean water during the entire rearing process.   As they grow in size, they can be fed newly hatchedbaby brine shrimp and crushed flake foods.

Australian Rainbowfish are an omnivorous species that in the wild feed on aquatic invertebrates and insects that fall into the water.   In an aquarium environment they should be fed a high quality flake food with occasional feedings of live, frozen, or freeze dried
bloodworms, brine shrimp, white worms or tubifex.   Feed them several times a day only what they can consume in 4 or 5 minutes.

Australian Rainbowfish are sold in specialty fish shops as Inland Rainbowfish or Murray River Rainbowfish.   They are usually moderately priced and somewhat difficult to obtain.   They can be ordered online or through specialty tropical fish shops and are usually sold as juveniles at 1 3/4″ to 2 1/2″ in size.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Minimum Tank Size: 30 gallons
Care Level: Moderate
Temperament: Peaceful
Aquarium Hardiness: Very Hardy
Water Conditions: 70.0 to 79.0° F, 8 – 25 dGH, pH 6.5-8.5
Max. Size: 4”
Color Form: Silver, Green, Blue
Diet: Omnivore
Compatibility: OK with like size peaceful species
Origin: Northeast Australia
Family: Melanotaeniidae
Lifespan: 5-8 years
Aquarist Experience Level: Beginner