The Mosquito Rasbora (Boraras brigittae) is found in dimly lit, slow moving, quiet blackwater streams and ponds in the forest peat swamps of South West Borneo, Indonesia.

Mosquito Rasbora (Boraras brigittae)

The Mosquito Rasbora has a distinctive color and pattern. They have a reddish background body color with a black/dark brown mid lateral stripe and a blotch at the base of the caudal fin.

Because of their small size, Mosquito rasboras are best kept in small groups of at least 8 to 10 specimens in a single species tank.   If introduced to a community tank, they should have like sized tank mates like Tetras, Trigonstigma rasbora species, dwarf cory species, dwarf loach species, Dario dario, or some of the smaller cyprinid species.

Although Mosquito Rasboras are tolerant of a wide range of narrow water parameters, they should never be used to cycle an aquarium. Like most species, sudden swings in the water parameters can have a detrimental effect on the health of these fish.

A densely planted aquarium with a sandy or fine gravel substrate with some driftwood and floating plants makes an ideal environment for Mosquito rasboras. Adding some leaf litter to the tank and allowing it to break down over a period of several weeks will provide the fish with naturally occurring algal colonies that can supplement their diet.

Mosquito Rasboras prefer low light conditions, so use plants like Java Fern that thrive in low lighting to decorate the aquarium. A minimal water flow is sufficient for these rasboras, however they do require regular water changes to keep the water quality up.

Mosquito rasboras are egg scatterers and will usually spawn in an established well planted aquarium with soft, acidic water, without any additional help.  The males are more brightly colored, are slimmer, and slightly smaller than the females. They will lay a few eggs every day for several days until spawning is completed. If you plan on keeping any of the fry to adulthood, remove the parents after the second day of spawning. After the first batch of eggs hatch out (in a couple of days) the fry will be free swimming approximately 24 hours later.

Because of their continuous spawning activity, one pair of Mosquito Rasboras can produce several batches of eggs for the tropical fish keeping enthusiast to care for. Several small tanks with seeded, fine pore sponge filters can be used to keep the water clean for the eggs and fry as they hatch. The fry should be fed infusoria after they absorb their eggs sacs, and finely crushed flake food, daphnia, or baby brine shrimp as they grow out.

In their natural environment, Boraras brigittae feeds on insects, small crustaceans, and zoo plankton. They readily accept live, frozen or freeze dried daphnia, brine shrimp, mosquito larvae, and quality commercially prepared foods.

Mosquito rasboras are not a common item in tropical fish shops and are sold when they are 3/4″ to 1″ in size.

Mosquito Rasbora (Boraras brigittae)

Minimum Tank Size: 5-10 gallons
Care Level: Moderate
Temperament: Peaceful
Aquarium Hardiness: Hardy
Water Conditions: pH 6.3 – 7.0, 5-10 dGH, 77 – 82°F
Max. Size: 1.18″ – 1.57″
Color Form:
Diet: Omnivore
Compatibility: Excellent single species fish
Origin: South West Borneo
Family: Cyprinidae
Lifespan: 4 – 8 years
Aquarist Experience Level: Advanced

The Peppered Cory Cat (Corydoras paleatus) is a species that comes from the lower Paraná River basin and coastal rivers of Uruguay and Brazil. They are often referred to by tropical fish keeping enthusiasts as the Blue Leopard Corydora, Mottled Corydora and Peppered Catfish.

The Peppered Cory Cat is an active, peaceful, bottom dwelling scavenger that has a black and dark green spotted body with a white underbelly. Males are smaller than the females, and in proportion to their body length; the dorsal and pectoral fins are longer on the male than on the females.

The Peppered Cory Cat does best in a densely planted aquarium with some floating plants and plenty of hiding places to give them some relief from direct lighting. Although they like to nibble on algae that grows on floating plants, they are not a specialized algae eating catfish. Because their barbels are easily damaged, a sandy or fine gravel substrate is recommended, along with some driftwood or bogwood (also known as mopani wood) to mimic their natural habitat.

These catfish enjoy the company of their own kind and should ideally be kept in small schools of six or more individuals.

The Peppered Cory Cat will occasionally dart to the top of the tank to take a gulp of air. They can use atmospheric oxygen to supplement what their gills extract from the water and will do this more frequently when the water quality in the aquarium is starting to deteriorate.

The Peppered Cory Cat is easy to breed once a pair is identified and keeping a number of individuals together until they pair off is the easiest way to do this. Like all Corydoras, Peppered Cory Cats are egg depositors and will lay their eggs in almost any place in the aquarium. The courtship ritual entails the male chasing the female around the tank until she is ready to spawn. The males shivers over the female and occasionally will lie down on top of her. The female turns to the male and pounds furiously below his ventral fin until the male releases his milt. The female catches the milt in her mouth, cups her ventral fins and lays about 3 or 4 few eggs in them. The female will then clean off a spot where she deposits the eggs. This continues until spawning is completed.

The eggs will normally hatch in about 6 days, and the fry should be free swimming 5 days later. Because the parents occasionally eat their fry, most tropical fish keeping enthusiasts remove the pair from the tank until the fry are able to fend for themselves. Normally the fry will eat the small organisms already in the tank until baby brine shrimp or finely crushed flake food can be eaten.

The Peppered Cory Cat is omnivorous and requires a well balanced diet of live, frozen or freeze dried bloodworms, daphnia, brine shrimp, tubifex, shrimp pellets, sinking catfish pellets, and a quality flake food. An occasional “treat” of blanched spinach is also appreciated.

Peppered Cory Cats are common in the aquarium trade and are usually available for purchase at a size of 3/4″ to 1″ in length.

Peppered Cory Cat (Corydoras paleatus)

Minimum Tank Size: 30 gallons
Care Level: Easy
Temperament: Peaceful
Aquarium Hardiness: Hardy
Water Conditions: 72-79° F, KH 2-12, pH 5.8-7.0
Max. Size: 2.3″
Color Black, Green, White
Diet: Omnivore
Compatibility: Peaceful community tanks
Origin: Uruguay and Brazil
Family: Callichthyidae
Life Span: 5 – 9 years
Aquarist Experience Level: Beginner

The Emerald Dwarf Rasbora (Microrasbora erythromicron) is found in a mountain lake situated in the western Shan State of Myanmar (Burma) called Lake Inle.

Emerald Dwarf Rasbora (Microrasbora erythromicron)

The Emerald Dwarf Rasbora has a pale copper head, a pinkish orange body with up to 15 emerald green bars along its side and a single black spot, rimmed in copper, at the base of their caudal fin.

The fins of the males have a reddish orange tinge, while the fins of females are clear and less colorful. The relatively high body of the fish gives it a stocky appearance. Their bright fins set off the emerald green body colors and give the fish a glowing look in the aquarium. Males are more intensely colored and slightly smaller than females.

The Emerald Dwarf Rasbora is listed in the genus Microrasbora, but that will likely change because of the discovery that they are more closely related to danios than rasboras.   It is a peaceful, timid, active fish that can be kept with like sized danios, rasboras, devarios, and smaller barbs but their colors are brightest and they are most sociable in shoals of at least 6-8 of their own species.

A 10-15 gallon tank would be perfect for a small school of about 15 to 20 fish with a ratio of 1 male to 3 females.    You might be tempted to add other small fish, but try to avoid this.   These little guys will do very well by themselves, and they might even spawn in this tank. With other fish, you will probably never see a spawning, or if they do spawn, you’ll never see the fry.

The Emerald Dwarf Rasbora does best in moderately hard (150 ppm to 300 ppm total hardness) water that has a pH of 7.2 to 7.4, and a temperature of 72 to 74 degrees F. To mimic their natural mountain lake habitat, they need frequent water changes and adequate filtration to keep their water as clean and pure as possible. Any waste buildup will cause these little fish to quickly deterioriate and die if not corrected.

In an aquarium environment, Emerald Dwarf Rasboras will do just fine in a densely planted 10 to 15 gallon tank with plenty of swimming area. They do best in a single species tank in small schools. When housed with other small species, they seldom breed and may get bullied.

Emerald Dwarf Rasboras will breed freely and continuously in an aquarium with the water parameters noted above. Females will lay several eggs daily until spawning is completed, but because they seem to enjoy eating their eggs and fry it is a good idea to breed the fish in a separate breeding tank.

To do this, separate the males from the females and feed them an exclusive diet of live foods for a week or two. The fish should be about an inch long and have good coloration when properly conditioned. When the females plumps up, add them to the breeding tank and towards evening before the lights are out, add the males to the tank. The tank should have several breeding mops or clumps of Java Moss for the females to deposit their eggs. Usually, spawning will commence the following morning and continue for several days. Check the spawning mops or Java Moss daily for eggs and replace them to a “hatching tank” when eggs are present. After a week or so, spawning should be completed and the fish can be relocated to their original tank.

The “hatching tank” should have a fine air stone in the tank for water circulation but no filter for the first couple of weeks. After that, a seeded sponge filter can be used. The clear eggs will hatch out in 72 hours at a temperature of 72 degrees F. at which time the tiny fry can be seen lying on the bottom of the tank. Do not feed the fry until they are totally free swimming. This can take an additional week or two.

Add a clump of clean Java Moss to the fry tank to help purify the water, give the fry a place to hide, and provide them with microfauna to feed on. Feed infusoria, paramecium, Cyclops, or powdered or liquid commercial fry foods to the tank daily until the fry show sign of growth. When using commercially prepared foods, several small feedings should be made and uneaten food should be removed from the tank. Small daily water changes with water from the main tank should be made to maintain water quality.

After about a week, start feeding newly hatched baby brine shrimp to the fry along with the infusoria or prepared foods until all the fry are eating them. This can take up to a week. Then stop feeding infusoria and add microworms to their diet of brine shrimp until they get to be about 3/8″ long (about 3 weeks after hatching). After about 6 to8 weeks, the fish can be slowly added to the main tank.

The parents will not eat the fry once they cannot fit them into their mouths, they simply ignore them.

Adult Emerald Dwarf Rasboras will eagerly accept live, frozen or freeze dried, brine shrimp, mosquito larvae, , daphnia, bloodworms or micro pellets.

The Emerald Dwarf Rasbora an uncommon find for tropical fish keeping enthusiasts and when available are usually 1″ in or less in size.

Emerald Dwarf Rasbora (Microrasbora erythromicron)

Minimum Tank Size: 10 gallons
Care Level: Moderate
Temperament: Peaceful
Aquarium Hardiness: Moderately Hardy
Water Conditions: 70-77° F, 10-25 °d, pH 7.0-7.5
Max. Size: 1.5″
Color Form: Iridescent copper, green, blue
Diet: Omnivore
Compatibility: Single species tank
Origin: Lake Inle, Myanmar
Family: Cyprinidae
Lifespan: 3-5 years
Aquarist Experience Level: Beginner to advanced

Red Line Rasbora (Rasbora pauciperforata) Pair

The Red Line Rasbora (Rasbora pauciperforata) is found in the still, slow moving, blackwater streams, rivers and lakes of South east Asia, Malaysia, and Sumatra.   They prefer overgrown, dimly lit, slow moving streams with overhanging vegetation.

The Red Line Rasbora is an elongated fish with a forked tail.   The body is a brownish gray color with an olive brown back and a white belly.  The fins are a smokey gray.   The Red Line Rasbora develops a bright neon style red stripe that runs laterally from the tip of the snout, through the upper part of the eye to the caudal fin when the fish is in good condition.   Females are generally more plump than males, especially during spawning.

Redline Rasbora (R. pauciperforata)

Tropical fish keeping enthusiasts sometimes confuse the Red Line Rasbora (Rasbora pauciperforata) with the unrelated Glowlight Tetra (Hemigrammus erythrozonus). Among other differences, Red Line Rasboras have a brighter red stripe than the Glowlight Tetra.

Red Line Rasboras are a peaceful schooling fish that swim in the middle and upper water levels of the aquarium.   They do best in groups of at least 8 or more individuals and can be housed with other peaceful similarly sized species such as Colisa, Corydoras, Apistogramma, Loricarids, Loaches, Danios, hatchet fish and other Rasboras.   Although they are sensitive to pollutants and require frequent partial water changes, they make an excellent addition to any black water community aquarium.

Red Line Rasboras should be housed in at least a 15 gallon tank with a dark fine gravel or sandy substrate, that is densely planted and aquascaped with some smooth river rock, driftwood or bogwood logs. Allow them plenty of swimming room.  Peat filtration and a cover of floating plants like water lettuce is recommended to give them the low light conditions they require.

Red Line Rasboras have been bred in an aquarium environment but breeding them is extremely difficult.  They require a pH of 5.5-6.0, a water hardness of 2-3 dH, a water temperature between 79-84°F and a well planted tank of fine leaved or grassy plants.

Because Red Line Rasboras are very selective about their breeding partners, it is best to keep a large number of fish together in a school and watch for pairs to develop. These fish are egg scatterers and will deposit their eggs on the plants and among the grasses in the tank. The eggs normally hatch in 24-28 hours and the fry will be free swimming 3 to 5 days later. The fry are very sensitive to water changes and should be fed infusoria, rotifers or liquid foods until they are able to fend for themselves.

Red Line Rasboras are not picky eaters and can be fed a mixed diet of live, frozen or freeze dried insects, tubifex, daphnia, insect larvae, crustaceans along with a high quality flake food.

When available for purchase, Red Line Rasboras can be anywhere from 1/2″ to 2-1/4″ in length.

Redline Rasbora (R. pauciperforata)

Minimum Tank Size: 15 gallons
Care Level: Moderately difficult
Temperament: Peaceful
Aquarium Hardiness: Hardy
Water Conditions: pH 6.2-7.0, 0-6 dH, 73-79°F
Max. Size: 2.8″
Color Form: Gray, Brown, Red
Diet: Omnivore
Compatibility: Excellent community fish
Origin: Malaysia and Sumatra
Family: Characidae
Lifespan: 3 – 5 years
Aquarist Experience Level: Advanced

Glowlight Tetra (Hemigrammus erythrozonus) School

The Glowlight Tetra (Hemigrammus erythrozonus) is a peaceful shoaling species that comes from the clear water streams and the Essequibo River in Guyana, South America.

Glowlight Tetras have a clear body with a bright iridescent neon red to orange stripe that extends from the snout of the fish to the base of its tail. The front of the dorsal fin is the same color as the stripe, and the other fins are silver to transparent in color.  Golden and albino varieties are also sold. Like most tetras, the females are larger and more fat bodied than the more slender males.  They are easier to sex when fully mature and the females are ripe with eggs.

Tropical fish keeping enthusiasts occasionally confuse the Red Line Rasbora (Rasbora pauciperforata) of Malaysia and Indonesia (which has similar colors and markings) with the Glowlight Tetra however, it is in the Cyprinidae family and not a close relative.

Glowlight Tetras “glow” like a lamp under dim aquarium lighting, hence their common name. They are popular, readily available to tropical fish keeping enthusiasts, and are usually inexpensive.

Hemigrammus erythrozonus are a hardy, peaceful species that are best viewed in the aquarium when kept under subdued lighting with a dark substrate. Health wise and aesthetically they do best in groups of odd numbered (9 or more) individuals and make a great addition to any soft water community aquarium with fish of the same size.

Glowlight Tetras should be housed in a densely planted tank with a dark sandy or fine gravel substrate, some rocks, and driftwood to mimic their natural habitat. They prefer soft to slightly hard; d°GH of 6° to 15°, slightly acidic; pH of 6.8, water with a temperature range of 72° – 82 °F but they easily adapt to harder water conditions.

In an aquarium environment, Glowlight Tetras are moderately difficult to breed.   First set up a 40 gallon breeding tank with soft water (8°dGH), a carbonate hardness of less than 2°dCH, and a water temperature between 78 °F and 82 °F.   Because Glowlight Tetras are egg scatterers, they should be provided with fine leaved plants like Java Moss (Taxiphyllum barbieri) or Fontinalis, or a spawning mop for them to deposit their eggs on.

Select a pair and condition them with a variety of live, frozen or dry foods for a couple of weeks.  When the female is rounded out, transfer the pair to the unlit breeding tank during the late afternoon hours.  Keep the tank dark overnight and spawning will usually occur the following morning or the next day.  The male will swim around and lock his fins when near the female. During spawning, both fish roll over and when the female is in the upside down position, she ejects the eggs as the male fertilises them. Anywhere from 120-150 eggs are scattered on the plants and on the bottom of the tank. When spawning is complete, the pair will start grazing on the eggs and should be immediately removed from the breeding tank.

The eggs are light sensitive, so keep the breeding tank as dark as possible. Adding a peat bag to the tank helps to reduce fungal infections on the eggs. The fry will resemble small slivers of glass when they hatch out in 20 to 30 hours.

After their egg sacs have been absorbed, feed the tiny fry infusoria, paramecium culture, rotifers, and crushed flakes. As they grow larger around the fourth or fifth day, off them a small portion of newly hatched brine shrimp and as they increase in size, .

In the wild Hemigrammus erythrozonus are omnivores that primarily eat insect larvae.  In an aquarium environment they will eat small live, frozen, freeze dried, and flake foods. Brine shrimp, freeze dried bloodworms, tubifex and daphnia are all eagerly accepted but vary their diet with occasional offerings of vegetable matter.

Glowlight Tetras are usually 1/2″ to 1-1/4″ long when available for purchase.

Glowlight Tetra (Hemigrammus erythrozonus)

Minimum Tank Size: 15 gallons
Care Level: Easy
Temperament: Peaceful
Aquarium Hardiness: Hardy
Water Conditions: 72-77° F, KH 4-8, pH 5.5-7.0
Max. Size: 2″
Color Form: Clear, Red
Diet: Omnivore
Compatibility: Peaceful, keep with other small tetras
Origin: Farm Raised, Essequibo River in Guyana
Family: Characidae
Lifespan: 2 – 4 years
Aquarist Experience Level: Beginner

True Penguin Tetra (Thayeria obliqua) School

The true Penguin Tetra (Thayeria obliqua) like it’s close relative Thayeria boehlkei, is found in the central sections of the Amazon and Rio Tocantins basins as well as the Rio Guapore, in Brazil.    It inhabits the marginally vegetated black water jungle streams and tributaries and prefers the shady conditions encountered in these areas.

Although not as popular or common as the False Penguin Tetra (Thayeria boehlkei), they are also sold under the name “Penguin Fish“ and are frequently mixed together in shipments to tropical fish wholesalers.

The Penguin Tetra (Thayeria obliqua) has a pale silver to golden colored body with a black stripe that tapers upward from the lower lobe of the bottom half of the caudal fin and completely fades out before it reaches the dorsal fin in the fish. The dorsal and anal fins develop red tips as the fish grows and the caudal lobes are edged in an amber color. Like other species in the genus Thayeria, they swim in an obglique head up position.

Penguin Tetras are a peaceful schooling species that do best in larger groups of 10 or more individuals.  They make an excellent addition to soft water community aquariums and are candidates for a jungle biotope style tank setup.

In a community aquarium, they need a densely planted dark sandy substrate with some river rock, a few small stones and driftwood roots.   Indirect lighting or a few floating plants to provide shade should also be included in the tank setup.

Like their close cousins Thayeria boehlkei, these tetras are perfect candidates for a natural jungle blackwater biotope setting.  Provide river sand as the substrate and add a few driftwood branches, a few hand fulls of dried catappa leaves, and some peat to the aquarium filter to simulate the blackwater conditions.

Some tropical fish keeping enthusiasts add peat directly to the tank to simulate black water conditions. Initially the peat floats but will sink in a couple of days as it becomes waterlogged.

Although plants are not generally a prominent feature in the waters where true Penguin Tetras are found, they create a more effective display and add hiding places for the fish.  A few low light growing plant plant species like Java Fern (Microsorum pteropus), Java Moss (Taxiphyllum barbieri), Cryptocorynes, or Anubias can be added to the biotope tank.

To date there are no reports of successful captive breedings of true Penguin Tetras, however the strategy is probably similar to that of T. boehlkei breeding. All Penguin Tetra species will occasionally breed in an aquarium environment, but the fry are difficult to raise. The females can be distinguished from the males by their fuller and more rounded bodies.

Most tropical fish keeping enthusiasts use a breeding tank to preserve as many of the fry as possible. The tank should be very dimly lit and contain clumps of fine leaved plants such as java moss or several spawning mops to give the fish somewhere to deposit their eggs. Place the pair in the breeding tank until the eggs are laid. The eggs are light sensitive and will hatch approximately 12 to 15 hours after being deposited. The fry are very small and are also light sensitive but can be fed infusoria and newly hatched brine shrimp in the early stages of life. During this period, keep the tank in complete darkness or as dark as possible.

In their natural environment Penguin Tetras feed on zooplankton, worms, small insects, and crustaceans. In an aquarium environment they should be offered regular feedings of small live, frozen or freeze dried Daphnia, bloodworms, brine shrimp, tubifex, micro pellets, in addition to a high quality flake food.

Thayeria obliqua collected from the wild need soft acidic water, but most specimens seen in tropical fish shops are commercially farmed and can be kept in soft to moderately hard water with a neutral pH of 7.0 or less.

True Penguin Tetras are available for sale at a size of 3/4″ to 1-1/4″ in length.

True Penguin Tetra (Thayeria obliqua)

Minimum Tank Size: 20 gallons
Care Level: Moderate
Temperament: Peaceful
Aquarium Hardiness: Moderately Hardy
Water Conditions: 72-82° F, KH 2-15, pH 6.0-7.0
Max. Size: 3.2″
Color Form: Iridescent Blue, Red
Diet: Omnivore
Compatibility: OK with other small tetras
Origin: South America, Amazon and Rio Tocantins basins
Family: Characidae
Lifespan: Up to 8 years
Aquarist Experience Level: Beginner to advanced

False Penguin Tetra (Thayeria boehlkei) School

The Falsle Penguin Tetra (Thayeria boehlkei) is found in jungle streams and tributaries in the central sections of the Amazon and Rio Tocantins basins, and the Rio Guaporé, in Brazil.  They are the most popular of only three species in the genus Thayeria that are all sold as “Penguin Fish“.

Thayeria obliqua was the original Penguin Tetra however, Thayeria boehlkei is more common and is also sold under the same name.  The thirdspecies, Thayeria ifati, is rarely available to tropical fish keeping enthusiasts although it is also a beautiful fish.

False Penguin Tetra (Thayeria boehlkei)

The False Penguin Tetra (Thayeria boehlkei) is pale to golden in color with a thick vertical black stripe that runs from the tip of thebottom half of the tail, laterally through the body, to the opercle (gill flap) of the fish.   The dorsal and anal fins develop red tips and the caudal lobes are edged in an amber color.

In the Thayeria obliqua variety, the black stripe tapers upwards from the lower lobe of the bottom half of caudal fin and completely fades out before it reaches the dorsal fin.

In the third species, Thayeria ifati, the black stripe is only present in the uppermost part of the lower caudal lobe, but it is more clearly defined and extends upwards of the lateral line, beyond the dorsal fin.

Penguin Tetra (Thayeria obliqua)

All three species swim in an oblique, head up style that is typical of this species.

The False Penguin Tetra is a peaceful schooling species that does best in groups of 6 or more individuals and makes a great addition to any soft water community aquarium.  They should be housed in a densely planted, moderately lit tank that is decorated with some smooth river rock, small stones, and driftwood roots with a dark sandy substrate to bring out their colors.   A few floating plants can be added to break up any direct lighting.

These tetras also look great in a natural blackwater biotope setting.   Use river sand as the substrate and add a few branches of driftwood, a few handfulls of dried leaves (catappa leaves), and some peat to the aquarium filter to simulate the blackwater conditions necessary.  Some tropical fish keeping enthusiasts add a couple handfuls of peat directly to the tank.  The peat floats but will sink in a couple of days.

Plants are not generally a feature in the waters where False Penguin Tetras are found, but to create a more effective display, you can add some low light plant species like Java Fern (Microsorum pteropus),  Java Moss (Taxiphyllum barbieri),  Cryptocorynes, or Anubias to the biotope tank.

All species of Penguin Tetras will occasionally breed in an aquarium environment but the fry are notoriously difficult to feed.   A breeding tank is usually necessary to preserve as many fry as possilbe.  Females are distinguished from the males by their more rounded and fuller bodies.   The eggs will hatch approximately 12 to 15 hours after being laid and the young can be fed infusoria and newly hatched brine shrimp.

In their natural environment False Penguin Tetras feed on worms, small insects, crustaceans, and zooplankton.  In an aquarium environment they should be offered regular feedings of small live, frozen or freeze dried bloodworms, Daphnia, brine shrimp, tubifex, micro pellets, and a high quality flake food.

Thayeria boehlkei collected from the wild require soft acidic water, but most specimens seen in tropical fish shops are farmed in Europe, Florida, or the far East and can be kept in soft to moderately hard water with a neutral pH of 7.0.

False Penguin Tetras are available for sale when they are 3/4″ to 1-1/4″ long.

False Penguin Tetra (Thayeria boehlkei)

Minimum Tank Size: 20 gallons
Care Level: Moderate
Temperament: Peaceful
Aquarium Hardiness: Moderately Hardy
Water Conditions: 73-82° F, KH 2-6, pH 5.5-7.0
Max. Size: 3.2″
Color Form: Iridescent Blue, Red
Diet: Omnivore
Compatibility: OK with other small tetras
Origin: South America, farm raised Europe
Family: Characidae
Lifespan: Up to 8 years
Aquarist Experience Level: Beginner to advanced

The Marliers Julie (Julidochromis Marlieri) is a slender, torpedo shaped cichlid that is also referred to as the Checkered Julie, Marlieri Cichlid, Spotted Julie, and Plaid Julie by tropical fish keeping enthusiasts.

The Marlier’s Julie (Checkered Julie Julidochromis marlieri) is found in fairly deep water around the rocky shorelines of the northern, southern and western regions of Lake Tanganyika, Africa and is one of the more interesting species inhabiting the lake. They prefer living in deep water and inhabit the rocky recesses along the medium drop offs at depths between 16 to 100 feet.

The various varieties of Marliers Julie are commonly named according their geographic distribution; for example Julidochromis marlieri “Mboko gold”, Julidochromis marlieri “Gombe”, and Julidochromis marlieri “Magara”.

Marliers Julie (Julidochromis Marlieri)

The Marliers Julie can be identified by the checkered type body pattern made by three or more horizontal rows of white spots, and the beautiful blue highlights which outline the entire body around the fins of the fish.  The color patterns of this species vary and depend on where in Lake Tanganyika the specimen was collected.

Several slightly different color pattern varieties of Marliers Julie exist and all are extremely attractive.  It’s close relative, the Masked Julie Julidochromis transcriptus is smaller and can be distinguished by having only two rows of white spots on their body.

Some varieties have a uniform black and white colored body pattern, while others have more black, or more white in the pattern.  Some specimens have what looks like white spots on a black background as their body color.   Most species have all white bellies but a few species have irregular patches of white on their bellies.

Some of  the body patterns and color variations are listed below according to geographical areas of Lake Tanganyika where they are found.

J. Marlieri “Black” 
J. Marlieri “Bulu Point” 
J. Marlieri “Burundi” 
J. Marlieri “Gombe” 
J. Marlieri “Halembe” 
J. Marlieri “Kalambo” 
J. Marlieri “Kantalamba” 
J. Marlieri “Kasanga” 
J. Marlieri “Katoto” 
J. Marlieri “Magara” 
J. Marlieri “Mboko” 
J. Marlieri “Milima” 
J. marlieri “Zambia”

The Marliers Julie is an active, interesting, intelligent fish that has an intriguing personality and exhibits some quirky behavior. They will swim mostly in the bottom areas of the aquarium and will closely hug the rock surfaces, regardless of the angle and hold tight upside down inside the ceiling of their cave.

Although Marliers Jule are extremely territorial, they can be successfully housed with other similarly sized Tanganyikan cichlids like the Cyprichromis and Altolamprologus species however, unless you keep them in a huge tank, a breeding pair should be housed alone in a biotope setup.

They do best in a large highly oxygenated tank with a sandy or very fine grain gravel substrate and plenty of rock piles arranged to form caves and caverns.  Hardy plants can be added to the tank without concern, but if you are keeping more than one species of rock dweller in the tank, make sure you provide them with distinct piles of rocks to minimize aggression.   Adult Marliers Julie are belligerent towards one another, especially when a large water change is made in the aquarium.   This will almost certainly cause a mated pair to turn on each other.   Weekly partial water changes should keep the fish healthy and in good condition.

The Marliers Julie is easy to breed but patience is needed.   Females are have a longer genital papillae that is flatter on the end while the male’s genital papillae is shorter, more pointed, and angled toward the back.   Male Marliers Julies are smaller and have a lump like swelling on their neck.

The easiest way to obtain a breeding pair is by purchasing a group of young fish and allowing them to pair off naturally.   This may take up to a year or more, but once a pair develops, they will remain mated for life.   When the pair is identified, remove the other fish from the tank and make sure the water parameters of the breeding tank are: medium hard water with a pH of around 8.2-9.0, 12° dGH, and a temperature between 75 – 78.8° F.

When ready to spawn, the female will lay 50 – 100 bluish green colored 1.2 mm eggs in a cave of her choosing, usually on the walls or on the celiing of the cave.   After the eggs are laid the female will guard the eggs, while the male guards the cave.

The parents are dedicated to their young and after the eggs hatch, will take turns guarding the fry.   The parents normally allow the fry to stay in the area until they are about 1″ long, even when new batches are hatched since they will help guard their siblings.

Marliers Julies will spawn every 5 to 7 weeks so make sure there are a lot of rocky crevices for the young to hide among.   Avoid keeping plecos in the tank because they will eat the young if given the chance, especially during the night.

Some breeders siphon out a majority of  fry when they are born into a 20 gallon tank to maximize the survival rate of the young. The young are slow growers but can be fed baby brine shrimp as soon as their eggs sacs are absorbed.   When doing this, leave a few young in the breeding tank for the parents to rear. The brood care is quite long and the young can stay with the parents until they reach 1″ in length.   At this size the adults can turn on their young.

Often the adults will spawn again while the initial brood is still in the aquarium.  This forms a “nuclear family” with the older fry staying in the territory of the parents and tending to the new brood of eggs.

Marliers Julies are omnivores that in the wild feed on small invertebrates like snails, Aufwuchs, small aquatic insects, microfauna, and sponges.   In an aquarium environment, they should be fed a quality flake food or pellet daily with regular supplements of live, frozen or freeze dried mysis shrimp, Cyclops, krill, daphnia (water fleas), and
brine shrimp.   Some vegetable matter like blanched spinach or spirulina will also be eagerly accepted.   Its best to feed them several small pinches of food daily, instead of a larger quantity single feeding.   This helps maintain water quality and mimics their natural grazing behavior.

The Marlier’s Julie can be found online and in specialty tropical fish shops. Depending on the size and variety, they can be moderately, to very expensive and when available for purchase can be juveniles of 1 1/2″ in length, to adults at 5″ to 6″ in length. Because hybridization of this species is relatively common, be sure to purchase from a reputable dealer.

Marliers Julie (Julidochromis Marlieri)

Minimum Tank Size: 30 gallons
Care Level: Moderately Difficult
Temperament: Semi aggressive
Aquarium Hardiness: Hardy
Water Conditions: 73-81° F, KH 10-25, pH 7.5-9.5
Max. Size: 6″
Color Form: Black, White, Blue
Diet: Omnivore
Compatibility: Other Lake Tanganyikan fish except other Julidochromis
Origin: Lake Tanganyika, Africa
Family: Cichlidae
Lifespan: 5-8 years
Aquarist Experience Level: Intermediate to Experienced

The Brichard’s Synodontis (Synodontis Brichardi) is a species of upside down catfish that is found in the heavy, turbulent, river rapids of the lower Congo at Kinsuka, Kinshasa, Zaire.

Brichard’s Synodontis have a streamlined, elongated body, with a flat body profile which is uncharacteristic of other

Brichard’s Synodontis (Synodontis Brichardi)

Synodontis species.   They have three pairs of barbels on their mouth .  Their body color depends on the age of the fish.   Juvenile Synodontis Brichardi have a brownish black body color with several blurred, but straight white stripes.   Mature specimens have a dark black body color with distinct, white, curved markings that continue through the forked tail of the fish.  Their bellies are normally light gray.  The colors of this species become more intense with age

Brichard’s Synodontis will thrive in tanks that have good quality water conditions, a moderately strong oxygenated current, and good filtration.  In an aquarium environment, an external power filter or a canister filer with a spray bar will work nicely, but they still require frequent partial water changes.   Being a relatively shy species, their tank should have a fine gravel bottom with large stones scattered about, and rock ledges with caves for them to hide in.  Because they occasionally dig in the substrate, well rooted or potted plants are a must.

Synodontis Brichardi are a peaceful species that can be somewhat territorial with their own kind, other synodontis catfish species, and some plecostomus.   Being slightly territorial, they may chase small fish that rest on the bottom of the tank at night.  They can be housed with medium to large fish such as Gouramis, Mormyrids, Congo Tetras, West African cichlids, and some of the larger barbs.

Brichard’s Synodontis have never been successfully bred in captivity.

In their natural habitat, Brichard’s Synodontis feed on algae and insect larvae.   In an aquarium, they will accept most prepared food flakes, Spirulina pellets, algae wafers, chopped spinach leaves, blanched cucumbers, etc.    Their veggie diet should be augmented with regular feedings of live or frozen brine shrimp, mosquito larvae, tubifex, or bloodworms.   These fish must have live foods in their diet to thrive in captivity.

Brichard’s Synodontis is not a common species but can be obtained online or from specialty tropical fish shops.  When available, they are quite pricey and are sold as juveniles and near adults.

Brichard’s Synodontis (Synodontis Brichardi)

Minimum Tank Size: 55 gallons
Care Level: Easy
Temperament: Semi-aggressive
Aquarium Hardiness: Hardy
Water Conditions: 72-79°F, dH 6-20, pH 6.2-7.5
Max. Size: 8″
Color Form: Tan, black
Diet: Omnivore
Compatibility: Keep with larger fish
Origin: Lower Congo River, Africa
Family: Mochokidae
Lifespan: 5-10 years
Aquarist Experience Lever: Intermediate

The Gold Tetra (Hemigrammus rodwayi) is native to the slow moving rivers, tributaries and floodplain lakes of Guyana, Suriname, French Guiana, Peru and Brazil. It is sometimes found in mildly brackish water where it is abundant in the coastal floodplains.

Gold Tetra (Hemigrammus rodwayi)

Wild caught Gold Tetras collected from several areas in nature are a dazzling metallic gold color that is formed by deposits of guanin. The deposits are due to a skin reaction that the fish get when infected by a specific type of trematode parasite.

The usual color of the Gold Tetra is a somewhat dull silvery grey body color with colorless fins. Captive bred specimens that have not been infected by the parasite do not have the spectacular gold color that is prized by tropical fish keeping enthusiasts. The anal fin of male Gold Tetras have a white leading edge and contain more red pigmentation than that the females. Adult females have a more rounded belly than the males.

The Gold Tetra is a peaceful shoaling species that does well in a community aquarium of at least 20 gallons. They do best in groups of at least 6 to 12 individuals and will get along with other smaller South American species such as pencil fish, Apistogramma dwarf cichlids, Corydoras, Loricads, Hyphessobrycon or Hemigrammus.  They are more generally housed with the Pelvicachromis (Kribensis) species of dwarf cichlids, barbs, rasboras, and the smaller Anabantoids (labyrinth fishes).

In an aquarium environment, Gold Tetras are perfect for a blackwater biotope setup. A substrate of river sand with a few branches of driftwood or gnarly roots and a handful of dried leaves is all they really need to keep them healthy and happy.   Filter the water through some peat to aid in turning the water a tea color which they enjoy in their natural habitat. Alternatively, they can be housed in a peaceful, well maintained community tank setup that is densely planted; even though aquatic plants are not a feature in their natural habitat.

Gold Tetras can be bred in an aquarium but if you want to raise decent numbers of fry, set up a separate breeding tank. Like many egg scatterers, they should be provided with a spawning mop or some clumps of fine leaved plants like Java Moss or Cabomba where they can lay their eggs. Some breeders cover the bottom of the tank with small “egg crate” or some other type of mesh to save as many eggs as possible from being eaten. The breeding tank should have soft acidic water with a pH of 5.5 – 6.5 a gH of 1 – 5 and a water temperature of about 80-85 degrees F.

Gold Tetras can be spawned in groups of 6 to 12 fish with equal numbers of males to females or in pairs. Condition them with daphnia, brine shrimp or other live foods until spawning occurs; usually in the mornings. When spawning a single pair; choose a male and a “full” female from a conditioned group and transfer the pair to a breeding tank with a fine sponge bubble filter and a breeding mop. Breeding will usually occur the following morning and after the eggs have scattered, immediately remove the pair from the tank. The eggs will hatch in about 28 to 36 hours and the fry will usually be free swimming 3 to 4 days later. Both eggs and fry are light sensitive and should be kept in a dark tank until the fry are able to eat regular foods. Feed infusoria until the fry are large enough to accept or baby brine shrimp.

Adult Gold Tetras are easy to feed. They readily accept just about anything offered but regular meals of small live and frozen foods such as bloodworm,
daphnia and brine shrimp, along with a quality dried flake food will keep them healthy.

Gold Tetra (Hemigrammus rodwayi)

Minimum Tank Size: 20 gallons
Care Level: Easy
Temperament: Peaceful
Aquarium Hardiness: Moderately Hardy
Water Conditions: 75-82° F, KH 4-8, dGH 12, pH 6.0-7.0
Max. Size: 2.25”
Color Form: Gray/Silver, Gold
Diet: Omnivore
Compatibility: Suitable for peaceful community tanks
Origin: South America, Suriname, French Guiana
Family: Characidae
Lifespan: 5 years
Aquarist Experience Level: Beginner

The Giant Danio (Devario aequipinnatus) is shoaling fish that is native to the clear, moderately flowing, gravel streams and rivers of Sri Lanka, Nepal, and the West coast of India.  They are an active fish that thrive in the hilly streams at elevations up to 1000 feet above sea level.

Giant Danios have torpedo shaped bodies that are a captivating blue to blue green in color. They have yellow to gold colored horizontal lines and spots that intensify the body color, and fins that are a gray to clear color.

Giant Danio (Devario aequipinnatus)

Giant Danios, as their name implies, grow to an impressive length of 4 inches in the wild and make great candidates for larger community tanks.

Because Giant Danios are fast swimmers, they should be housed in a long tank in groups of at least 8 to 10 fish.

They should be housed in a large densely planted tank with a smaller sized gravel substrate, some driftwood branches, a few river rocks and plenty of swimming area.   A power head or two should be placed in the tank to provide the necessary water movement and a good filter is necessary to maintain the clean water conditions they thrive in.  Weekly to bi-weekly 20% to 40% water changes will keep these Danios healthy, and because these fish are active jumpers, a tight fitting aquarium cover is a must.

Giant Danios are egg scatterers that are stimulated to spawn by sunlight.  The female will scatter up to 300 eggs which are immediately fertilized by the male. Hatching occurs within 36 hours and when free swimming, the fry should be fed fine pieces of live foods.

In their natural environment, Giant Danios feed on exogenous insects, small crustaceans and worms.   In an aquarium environment, they should be fed a diet of flake food with plenty of vegetable matter augmented with live, frozen or freeze dried bloodworms and tubifex.

Devario aequipinnatus are commonly available and are sold when they reach 1 1/2″ to 2″ in size.

Giant Danio (Devario aequipinnatus)

Minimum Tank Size: 30 gallons
Care Level: Easy
Temperament: Peaceful
Aquarium Hardiness: Hardy
Water Conditions: 72-81° F, dGH 5.0-19.0, pH 6.0-8.0
Max. Size: 4″
Color Form: Blue, Yellow
Diet: Omnivore
Compatibility: Suitable for large community tanks
Origin: India, Nepal, Sri Lanka
Family: Cyprinidae
Lifespan: up to 5 years
Aquarist Experience Level: Beginner

The Golden White Cloud (Tanichthys albonubes) is a color variant of the White Cloud Mountain Minnow which originates from the “White Cloud Mountain” (Mount Baiyun) in Kwangtung, China. The Golden White Cloud is also commonly referred to by tropical fish keeping enthusiasts as the Meteor Minnow, Chinese Danio, and “poor mans Neon Tetra“.

Because of pollution and over collection, the Golden White Cloud is practically extinct in its native habitat. They are now commercially bred in farms and are readily available to tropical fish keeping enthusiasts. Unfortunately, inbreeding has led to a genetically weak stock that makes the fish vulnerable to disease and physical deformities.

Golden White Clouds are a peaceful, active, shoaling species that adapts well to less than perfect water conditions. This makes them a perfect candidate for beginning tropical fish keeping enthusiasts.

Golden White Cloud (Tanichthys albonubes)

The Golden White Cloud has a gold body with red markings on each side of the head and towards the tail. The males generally have brighter colors and slimmer bodies, with wide, fan shaped dorsal and anal fins.

The fins of the females are triangular and more wedge shaped.

When housed in a tank of 8 or 10 of their own kind, Golden White Clouds are peaceful, colorful and very active; but when kept alone or in smaller pods, the fish tend to lose their colors, chase and pick on other tank inhabitants. They do well in community aquariums with other peaceful fish like small Danios, Devario, Garra and many loaches.

Because they originate from the gorges of the White Cloud Mountains, an ideal environment for them would be a stream style tank setup. Slow moving water, with a densely planted substrate of sand, pebbles, leaf litter, and possibly some driftwood will mimic their natural environment.

White Clouds of every color variant are easily bred in an aquarium environment.   They are egg scatterers that will drop their eggs freely amongst the vegetation in the tank.  Condition them with regular feedings of live brine shrimp and daphnia to select the most colorful fish for breeding.   Lower the tank water temperature to about 68°F, give them a spawning mop or some Java Moss, and they will start breeding in short order.  Male Golden White Clouds will display their fins alongside the female when attempting to entice her to lay her eggs.   After the eggs have been fertilized and scattered around the plants, hatching usually takes place in 36 to 60 hours.   The fry are tiny but can be seen clinging to the sides of the tank glass and among the plants.  They can be fed powdered fish food or infusoria.   After a few days they can be fed baby brine shrimp or daphnia.

Although Golden White Clouds will not usually cannibalize their fry, many tropical fish keeping enthusiasts do not allow the parents to remain in the breeding tank after the eggs have been scattered.

In the wild, Golden White Clouds are micro predators that feed on small insects, worms, crustaceans, and other zooplankton.  In an aquarium environment, they can be fed a vegetable based flake food with occasional offerings of freeze dried bloodworms or tubifex.

Farm raised Golden White Clouds are usually available for purchase when they reach 3/4″ to 1-1/4″ in length.

Golden White Cloud (Tanichthys albonubes)

Minimum Tank Size: 10 gallons
Care Level: Easy
Temperament: Peaceful
Aquarium Hardiness: Hardy
Water Conditions: 64-79° F, KH 10-15, pH 6.5-8.0
Max. Size: 2″
Color Form: Gold, Yellow
Diet: Omnivore
Origin: China; Farm Raised in Singapore
Family: Cyprinidae
Lifespan: 5 years plus
Aquarist Experience Level: Beginner

The Lemon Cichlid (Neolamprologus leleupi) also known by tropical fish keeping enthusiasts as the Lelupi, Orange Lelupi Cichlid, Orange Neolamprologus Leleupi Cichlid, Gold Cichlid, Gold Leleupi Cichlid, and Tanganyikan Lemon Cichlid. It originates from the rocky coastal waters of Lake Tanganyika, Africa where it occurs throughout the lake.

The Lemon Cichlid is a “recess dweller” that makes its home in the cracks, caves, and crevices of the rocky coastal areas where it primarily feeds on invertebrates that live in the biocover of the substrate. Depending on what area of the lake the fish is collected from, the Lemon Cichlid varies in color from a bright yellow, to a deep orange brown, to a red.

Lemon Cichlid (Neolamprologus leleupi) (Orange)

It has an elongated body and a surprisingly large mouth for its size that is outlined in black or blue.

Captive bred specimens are often called descriptive names like Dutch Orange, Firecracker, and Super Bright Orange.

Lemon Cichlids are relatively aggressive towards their own kind and other fish that invade their territory. In an aquarium environment, they need lots of rock formations in their tank to make them feel secure.

The Lemon Cichlid (Neolamprologus leleupi) can be housed with other smaller Tanganyikan cichlids in a tank that is at least 30 gallons, but a larger tank is highly recommended. Aquascape the tank with a sandy bottom of white aragonite to maintain the pH and alkalinity of the water, and load the tank up with plenty of rocks, shells, and pieces of African Driftwood so the fish can build caves.

A white aggregate is recommended to maintain the bright yellow or orange colors of the fish. A darker substrate will cause the fish’s colors to substantially darken. The tank water must be kept free from Ammonia and nitrites so regular partial water changes are mandatory. Keeping the water parameters to those found in Lake Tanganyika will keep these fish healthy and free from disease.

The Lemon Cichlid is a secretive cave spawner and although breeding is reported to be more difficult than most of the cichlids, when given enough hiding spaces and crevices to hide among, a pair will easily spawn. Neolamprologus leleupi are a very slow growing species and may take a few years to reach sexual maturity, but the easiest way to develop a breeding pair is to place at least 6 juveniles in a tank to see if any fish pair off. At sexual maturity, the males are typically larger than the females and are about 4″ in length compared to 3 1/2″ for the females.

If a sufficient number of caves and crevices are provided in the tank, a pair will choose an acceptable breeding site and start defending their territory until the female lays anywhere from 100 to 150 eggs within the cave, usually on the ceiling or along the walls. After the male fertilizes the eggs, incubation will occur in about 3 to 4 days. The fry becoming free swimming in about 8-10 days. During the initial period of brood care, the fry will remain in the cave with both parents alternating in protecting them. Once the fry begin to leave the cave you may want to remove the parents. Lemon Cichlids are very good caregivers and will provide parental care until they are ready to spawn again but when the fry reach about 1″ in length, the parents may turn on them. Water quality in the tank is essential as the young are very sensitive to accumulations of bacteria and organic wastes.

Feeding Lemon Cichlids is a matter of providing a diet of mysis shrimp and other live foods high in carotene to help promote their luminous yellow/orange coloring. Live or frozen bloodworms, brine shrimp and mysis shrimp, carnivore flakes and pellet foods are all eagerly accepted.

When available for purchase, Lemon Cichlids are usually 1″ to 1-1/2″ in length.

Lemon Cichlid (Neolamprologus leleupi)

Minimum Tank Size: 55 gallons
Care Level: Moderately Difficult
Temperament: Semi aggressive
Aquarium Hardiness: Hardy
Water Conditions: 74-80° F, KH 10-20, pH 7.8-9.0
Max. Size: 4″
Color Form: Black, Blue, Orange
Diet: Carnivore
Compatibility: Ok with small to medium-sized Tanganyikan cichlids
Origin: Lake Tanganyika, Africa
Family: Cichlidae
Lifespan: 8-10 years
Aquarist Experience Level: Intermediate to Experienced

The Electric Yellow Cichlid (Labidochromis caeruleus) also known by tropical fish keeping enthusiasts as the Lemon Yellow Lab, Yellow Lab , Electric Yellow Lab, Blue Streak hap., Electric Yellow or Yellow Prince.    It is a naturally occurring dark cave dwelling species variant of Labidochromis caeruleus that is found at depths up to 65 feet in the central western coastal region of Nkhata Bay in Lake Malawi, East Africa.

The Electric Yellow Cichlid was originally discovered in Lion’s Cove, between the islands of Charo and Mbowe in Lake Malawi. In the 1980s, because it was first displayed and exported from Burundi, it was erroneously believed to be a Lake Tanganyikan cichlid. It is now commercially referred to as Labidochromis tanganicae.

Electric Yellow Cichlids have a striking electric yellow body color that in mature specimens is contrasted by horizontal black stripes and vertical bars.

Compared to other African Cichlids, the Electric Yellow Cichlid is shy and peaceful, however, it displays distinct social and territorial behaviors and will act aggressively towards other fish with a similar body shape or color that is perceived as a threat.

Electric Yellow Cichlids need a 55 gallon or larger tank with a sandy aggregate, hardy plants, plenty of “holey” rock (honeycomb limestone), caves, and a lot of swimming area.  They can be housed with most zebra cichlid varieties including Rusty Cichlids, Yellow Tail Acei, Peacocks, Featherfins, Lamprologus, other Mbuna, and other more peaceful and less aggressive African cichlid species.

Labidochromis caeruleus live in depth of over 65 feet and prefer dark caves to forage and breed in.  Adult males are usually one third larger than females and tend to have more black on their longer pelvic and anal fins.   These cichlids are mouth brooders that are easily bred in an aquarium environment.  Spawning occurs most often when water levels in the aquarium are lowered for a day and clean water is then added to the tank.  The male will choose a spot, usually a nice flat stone,  where the female will then lay her eggs.  As the male fertilizes the eggs, the female will collect them into her mouth.  The process is repeated a few times until 15 to 30 eggs are held in the mouth of the female.  She will then hide in a cave for about 3 weeks until incubation is completed.

Younger inexperienced females usually brood around 10 fry; older ones can have up to 30.  As long as the female has a good hiding place, she can be kept in the main tank during the incubation period and the fry will remain safe with their parents, even after they have been released.

Sometimes if you try to remove the female from the tank after the young are released, the stress will cause her to eat her babies. After the egg sacs are absorbed, feed the fry crushed vegetable based flake food or baby brine shrimp until they are able to fend for themselves.

In the wild, the Electric Yellow Cichlid primarily feeds on insects, snails, and small mollusks.  In an aquarium environment, they will accept a wide assortment of foods, but a Spirulina based flake food or pellet that contains vegetable matter with an occasional supplement of live or frozen meaty foods such as brine shrimp and bloodworms is recommenced to prevent “Malawi Bloat” and keep them healthy.

Most Electric Yellow Cichlids available to tropical fish keeping enthusiasts today are farm bred and available in sizes from 1 1/2″-2″ small, 2″-3″ mediums, and 3″-5″ adults.

Electric Yellow Cichlid (Labidochromis caeruleus)

Minimum Tank Size: 55 gallons
Care Level: Easy
Temperament: Semi aggressive
Aquarium Hardiness: Moderately hardy
Water Conditions: 72-82° F, KH 10-15, pH 7.8-8.5
Max. Size: 5″
Color Form: Yellow
Diet: Omnivore
Compatibility:
Origin: Lion’s Cove, Lake Malawi, Africa
Family: Cichlidae
Lifespan: 6 – 10 years
Aquarist Experience Level: Beginner to Intermediate

The Duboisi Cichlid (Tropheus duboisii) originates from the rocky coastal waters of Northern Lake Tanganyika, Africa.

Juvenila Duboisi Cichlid (Tropheus duboisii)

As juveniles, Duboisi Cichlids start out life with a jet black body with dozens of white spots that completely cover their flanks.

As they mature, they lose their spots and develop a blue head with a vertical yellow or white band.

Tropheus duboisi “Burundi” develop a white band just behind the pectoral fins, while Tropheus Duboisi “Maswa” develop a wide yellow band.

Tropheus Duboisi – Maswa

The Maswa variety is debatedly the most popular with tropical fish keeping enthusiasts because of its noticeably wider yellow band.

Male and female Duboisi Cichlids are identical in color however, there are subtle differences between sexes that may help you differentiate between them.

Adult males are typically larger than the females and have a more turned up nose. Females have a greater slope and a more rounded nose. Adult males also tend to have a deeper body, whereas females appear more slim and streamlined. But, the only sure way to determine gender with Tropheus is by venting.

Like other species in the Tropheus genus, Duboisi Cichlids are extremely aggressive towards their own kind and should be housed in large colonies of 10 or more individuals. Although they are a very personable fish, they do best in a species specific aquarium.

The Tropheus Duboisi Cichlid should be housed in an aquarium of at least 55 gallons with other smaller semi aggressive Tanganyikan or Malasian cichlids. A 75 gallon or larger tank is needed for a colony of ten or more fish of the same species. Aquascape the tank with plenty of rock caves where the females can hide and provide them with an aragonite substrate to help maintain the necessary alkalinity and high pH they require. These fish need clean, well filtered water to thrive in and should have a powerhead in their tank in addition to a good flter to provide moderate water movement.

The Tropheus Duboisi Cichlid is a mouth brooder that is more challenging to breed than most other cichlids. It is a slow growing species that can take several years to reach sexual maturity. To increase the chance of spawning, keep 5 or 6 females in the breeding tank with one male or a group of 10 or more individuals. Never keep these fish in a 1:1 ratio. Males are very territorial and aggressive when trying to coax the females into spawning.

To reduce aggression, set up a number of caves in the breeding tank for the pair to choose a breeding site from. After a female has spawned and is brooding her young, removed her from the tank to prevent the dominant male from harassing her. Incubation is dependent on water temperature and occurs anywhere from 24 – 28 days. The fairly large, active fry can be fed finely crushed vegetable based flake food for the first few months until they show interest in lettuce or Spirulina based foods.

Unline some mouthbrooders, mouthbrooding females do not fast during incubation and will eat along with their tank mates.

Tropheus Duboisi Cichlids should be fed a diet high in vegetable matter. Dried seaweed, Spirulina, vegetable based blakes or pellets, and fresh spinach or romaine lettuce on a feeding clip should be fed daily.

The majority of Duboisi Cichlids are farm raised and are available for purchase when they attain a size of 1-1/2″ to 2″ in length.

Tropheus duboisi – Burundi

Approximate Purchase Size:
Minimum Tank Size: 55 gallons
Care Level: Moderately Difficult
Temperament: Highly aggressive and territorial
Aquarium Hardiness: Hardy
Water Conditions: 72-82° F, KH 10-20, pH 7.5-9.0
Max. Size: 5″
Color Form: Black, Blue, White, Yellow
Diet: Herbivore
Compatibility: Single species tanks
Origin: Lake Tanganyika, Africa
Family: Cichlidae
Lifespan: 12 years
Aquarist Experience Level: Advanced

The True Siamese Algae Eater (Crossocheilus siamensis); synonymous with (Crossocheilus oblongus) is a bottom dwelling member of the carp family found in the Chao Phraya and Mekong river basins in Southeast Asia and in the Malay Peninsula.

Siamese Algae Eater (Crossocheilus siamensis) is one of the most popular algae eaters used to help control nuisance algaes in planted aquariums.

True Siamese Algae Eaters are native to high flow rivers and streams, and during the rainy season, in the flooded forests. They are highly prized by tropical fish keeping enthusiasts for their algae eating abilities and their compatibility with even the most passive community aquarium fish.

The True Siamese Algae Eater has a black horizontal stripe that extends from the tip of its head all the way through the tail of the fish. The upper body of the fish is a brown/green to black/brown color with a silvery white to cream underbelly.  The horizontal stripe can fade to help camouflage the fish against its surroundings.

A True Crossocheilus siamensis has clear see through fins with the black lateral line running right to the end of the tail. They are busy swimmers that cover all levels of the water column.

A closely related species (the Red-algae eater Crossocheilus langei), is widely sold as the Siamese algae eater.   This fish has a bright brownish elongated body with a slightly flat belly and a prominent brown/black horizontal stripe that also extends from nose to the tail.   This fish can grow to over 6″ and length and has small maxillary barbels and an unfringed shallowly arcuate upper lip.

Two other similar species traded as Siamese algae eaters add to the confusion with identification, namely Crossocheilus atrilimes, a species that prefers Java Moss than red algae, and an another undescribed species of Crossocheilus.   True Siamese algae eaters are also sometimes confused with the Flying fox (Epalzeorhynchos kalopterus), the False siamensis (Garra cambodgiensis), and the Chinese Algae Eater (Gyrinocheilus aymonieri) which are all commonly sold as merely Algae Eaters.

True Siamese Algae Eaters (Crossocheilus siamensis) need a steady current and high oxygen levels to thrive in an aquarium environment.  They do not tolerate inferior water conditions with high nitrate and dissolved organics, so pristine water parameters must be maintained with regular water changes and good filtration.

They are a great fish for the community aquarium and do best in a tank with rocks, some driftwood, and that is  densely planted with broad leaved plants where the fish can rest their bodies on.  This is needed because their swim bladders are not very developed, and the fish must be in constant motion or they will sink.

True Siamese Algae Eater – Crossocheilus siamensis

True Siamese Algae Eaters (Crossocheilus siamensis) don’t lie flat on their bellies but keep their bodies propped up with their tail, pelvic, and pectoral fins.  They are occasionally found sleeping upside down.

They are strong jumpers and should not be kept in uncovered tanks because they will eventually jump out.

These fish are true algae eaters that will graze on the surface of the substrate, plants, and other aquarium decor. They are one of the few fish that feed on the nuisance “Black Beard Algae” that is a bane to some systems.

True Siamese Algae Eaters can be kept with a variety of tank mates including many of the more passive community fish.  They can be kept in a small group or preferably as a pair. Keeping them alone is an option but they prefer the company of their own kind and can be quite timid when housed alone. Do not keep them with Redtail Black Sharks as constant fighting will ensue.

The True Siamese Algae eater is one of the few fish that will tackle hair algae and even red algae.   In addition to the algae growing in the aquarium, their diet can be augmented with Spirulina flakes or algae wafers, and fresh veggies like zucchini, peas, cucumber, etc.  Although they are opportunistic feeders and will eat other foods like flakes and pellet foods; high protein diets should be avoided. They will quickly get too fat if they eat too many meaty proteins and will get lazy with the algae eating when spoiled with too much commercial food. But since they have a very high metabolism, keeping them from high protein commercial foods for 2 to 3 days will get them back to a straight algae diet.

Because sexing is only possible in mature specimens, True Siamese Algae Eaters are extremely difficult to accurately sex. Generally the gravid females will have a rounder belly than the males but when well fed, males also have round bellies, which is probably why no breeding has yet been documented in an aquarium environment.   In addition, gravid females have the ability to reabsorb their eggs when not fertilized.

Because of the similarity to others in its genus,  considerable confusion exists with many tropical fish shop proprietors with their identification however, a true Siamese Algae Eater has clear see through fins and a black serrated stripe that runs all the way to the tip of the tail.   Although the “true” Crossocheilus siamensis is not often available to tropical fish keeping enthusiasts, when they are available their approximate purchase size is between 1-1/4″ to 2-1/2″.

True Siamese Algae Eater – Crossocheilus siamensis

 
Minimum Tank Size: 30 gallons
Care Level: Easy
Temperament: Peaceful
Aquarium Hardiness: Hardy
Water Conditions: 72-82° F, KH 5-15, pH 6.5 – 8.0
Max. Size: 6.2 ”
Color Form: Black, White
Diet: Omnivore
Compatibility: Good community tanks
Origin: Asia, Thailand, Indonesia
Family: Cyprinidae
Life Span: 10 years
Aquarist Experience Level: Beginner

Balantiocheilos_ambusticauda

The Siamese Bala Shark (Balantiocheilos ambusticauda) is a possibly extinct species of freshwater “shark” that has been frequently confused with the Bala shark (Balantiocheilos melanopterus).

The Siamese Bala Shark has also been referred to as the Burnt Tailed Barb by tropical fish keeping enthusiasts.

The Siamese Bala Shark is or was endemic to the Mae Klong and Chao Phayra River basins in Thailand where it inhabits the lowland riparian and marshland floodplains.

It has also been reported in the Mekong River Basin in Cambodia, Vietnam, and Laos but substantiated records for these areas are lacking or inconclusive.  The original distribution of this species included the Chao Phraya River drainage from Bangkok upriver to the lower Nan River and in the Mekong from Viet Nam and the Great Lake (Tonle Sap) to the lower Nam Ngum River.

The Siamese Bala Shark or Burnt Tailed Barb is closely related to the Bala Shark but has a small mouth, a shorter snout, narrower black margins on the pelvic and anal fins, and grooves which are posteriorly directed at rictus curved (vs. straight in the Bala shark).   The caudal fin is deeply concave. The color of the body is silver. Behind the green and gray dorsal fin, anal fin, and the tail fin. Orange, red and black rim strip.

Unsubstantiated descriptions from an old Thai magazine state that it is golden colored on the dorsal surfaces of the head and body, and that that the fish is an overall golden color.

Despite surveys within its native range, Balantiocheilos ambusticauda has not been recorded in more than three decades.  The IUCN has the species rated as “critically endangered” rather than extinct and some sources report less than 50 specimens exist in the wild.  The hope remains that small undiscovered populations still exist.

Although capture for the aquarium trade is suggested as the reason for its decline, extensive habitat destruction caused by pollution, drainage, and new dams being built withing its range are more likely the cause considering their sensitivity to water quality.

Requirements for care are similar to Bala Sharks as indicated below.

Siamese Bala Shark (Balantiocheilos ambusticauda)

Minimum Tank Size: N/A
Care Level: N/A
Temperament: Semi-aggressive
Aquarium Hardiness: Hardy
Water Conditions: 72-82° F, dGH 2 – 10, pH 6.5-7.8
Max Size:  8″
Color Form: Black, White, Yellow, Red
Diet: Omnivore
Compatibility: N/A
Origin: Thailand, “critically endangered”
Family: Cyprinidae
Life Span: 10 years
Aquarist Experience Level: N/A

Bala Shark (Balantiocheilus melanopterus) Catch

The Bala Shark (Balantiocheilus melanopterus) is also known by tropical fish keeping enthusiasts as the Tricolor Shark, Silver Shark, or Shark Minnow.

It is a semi aggressive mid water species that is found in large and medium size rivers and lakes of in the Malay Peninsula, Borneo, and Sumatra.  It has been misidentified as Balantiocheilos ambusticauda (the Burnt-Tailed Barb or Siamese Bala-Shark) which is found in the Mae Klong and Chao Phraya River basins in Thailand.

The Bala Shark has a metallic silver body with yellow to black margins on their dorsal, caudal, pelvic and anal fins.  Although it is not a true shark, it is called one because of its torpedo shaped body, big eyes and large fins.

Although the Bala Shark is classified as being semi aggressive, they are generally peaceful companions to many types of aquarium fish.

Bala Sharks are hardy and will tolerate a wide swing of temperature, pH, and water quality variations but prefer soft, slightly acidic water.  They are an active, fast swimming, shoaling species that grow quickly and should be kept in groups of at least five or more individuals in a large covered aquarium. Bala Sharks are great jumpers and are quite skittish.

Balantiochelius melanopterus do best in a large tank with a dark colored sandy or fine gravel substrate, rocks, driftwood, spots of densely planted vegetation for them to shelter in and a power head or two to provide moderate, well oxygenated water movement found in their natural habitat.

Although little is known about the breeding habits of Bala Sharks, they are egg scatterers. There are reports of them being bred in an aquarium environment but not commercially.   Bala Shark are farmed in Thailand and other countries through the use of hormones.

In the wild, Bala Shark feed on phytoplankton, crustaceans, insects, insect larvae, rotifers, algae, and other plants. In the aquarium they will eat all kinds of live, fresh, frozen or freeze dried and flaked foods. Give them a high quality flake food every day with occasional feedings of live or frozen brine shrimp or bloodworms as a treat.

They love mosquito larvae, daphnia, and vegetable foods and larger specimens can be fed chopped earthworms, mussels, or prawns. Chopped fruits, blanched spinach and shelled peas can also be fed as a dietary supplement.

Bala Sharks are grazers in their natural surroundings and shoud be offered food 2 or 3 times a day. Give them only what they can eat in less than 3 minutes. If you can only feed them once a day, give them only what they can eat in 5 minutes.

Bala Shark are usually sold as juveniles as small specimens from 3/4″ to 1-1/4″ in length, or larger at 1-1/4″ to 2″.  Because they attain a size of 14″, they should be housed in smaller schools in at least a 70 gallon aquarium and transferred to a larger tank as they grow out.

Bala Shark (Balantiocheilus melanopterus)

Minimum Tank Size: 150 gallon
Care Level: Moderate
Temperament: Semi-aggressive
Aquarium Hardiness: Hardy
Water Conditions: 72-82° F, dGH 2 – 10, pH 6.5-7.8
Max Size: 1′ 2″
Color Form: Black, White, Yellow
Diet: Omnivore
Compatibility: Not suitable for peaceful community tanks
Origin: Farm Raised, Thailand
Family: Cyprinidae
Life Span: 8 – 10 years
Aquarist Experience Level: Intermediate

The Redtail Black Shark (Epalzeorhynchos bicolor), also known by tropical fish keeping enthusiasts as the Redtail Shark or Redtail Sharkminnow, is native to the lakes and rivers of Western Thailand, and although once common in Bueng Boraphet and the Chao Phraya River as far south as Bangkok, until recently was believed to be extinct.

As of 2011 the Redtail Black Shark was only known at a single location in the Chao Phraya basin and is listed as Critically Endangered on the IUCN Red List.  Although it is critically endangered in the wild, captive bred specimens are common in aquaria, where they are prized by tropical fish keeping enthusiasts for its deep black body, vivid red or orange tail, and white tipped dorsal fin.

Redtail Black Shark (Epalzeorhynchos bicolor) Albino Form

The Redtail Black Shark is a semi aggressive Cyprinidae and provided only one specimen is housed in the tank, is an ideal candidate for a semi aggessive community aquarium with like sized tankmates. Although they get along with other semi aggressive speciees, they do not like other sharks.

When two Redtail Black Sharks are housed together, one shark becomes dominant and will constantly chase and harass the submissive shark, preventing it from feeding or resting. This usually results in the death of the submissive shark however, when kept in larger groups of five or more fish a hierarchy results and the fish get along much better.

Although Epalzeorhynchos bicolor will rarely bite other fish, they are aggressive chasers and will target larger, docile fish like Silver Dollars. Usually they will only chase other fish away from their territory and then retreat.

Redtail Black Sharks are bottom dwellers that like plenty of hiding places in their tank. They thrive in a tank that mimics a flowing river with a substrate of various sized rocks over a gravel substrate, some larger water worn “boulders”, some driftwood roots and some aquatic Microsorum, Anubias, or Bolbitis attached to the rocks and driftwood.

Bright lighting to promote the growth of algae and associated microorganisms, a good filtration system and a power head to create moderate water movement will keep the fish healthy and free from disease.

In the wild, Redtail Black Sharks are an aufwuchs grazer feeding on algae, small crustaceans, insect larvae, etc. In an aquarium environment they should be fed live, frozen or freeze dried bloodworms
, daphnia, small Artemia and good quality flake or granule foods along with fresh plant materials. An occasional treat of cucumber, spinach, shelled peas, or finely chopped fruit will keep the fish healthy and in good color.

All Redtail Black Shark purchased in tropical fish shops are now farm bred and available for purchase when they reach 1-1/2″ to 1-3/4″ in size.

Redtail Black Shark (Epalzeorhynchos bicolor).

Minimum Tank Size: 55 gallon
Care Level: Moderate
Temperament: Semi-aggressive
Aquarium Hardiness: Hardy
Water Conditions: 72-79° F, KH 10-15, pH 6.5-7.5
Max Size: 5″
Color Form: Black, Red
Diet: Omnivore
Compatibility: Not suitable for peaceful community tanks
Origin: Farm Raised, Thailand
Family: Cyprinidae
Life Span: 8 – 10 years
Aquarist Experience Level: Intermediate

Bogwood

There are three easy ways to lower the pH in your tank without adding chemicals that may harm your fish.

Many tropical fish keeping enthusiasts purchase fish from their local pet shops and find them lying on the bottom of the tank a few days to weeks later for no apparent reason.

Assuming that the tank has already gone through its cycle, the main culprit can usually be identified as too high or too low a Ph level for the fish you are trying to keep.

South American cichlids, loaches, and catfish are usually the fish most affected, but other species from Southeast Asia also suffer from this problem.

Fortunately, the following methods will slowly buffer the water in your tank and gently lower the pH without using harsh chemicals that can raise or lower the pH too quickly.

• Driftwood or Bogwood

Adding a piece of driftwood or bogwood to your tank will gently lower the pH level in the system naturally over a matter of days to weeks.

driftwood

The driftwood acts as a filter to remove contaminants and buffer the tank water.   The only drawback to this method is that initially, the wood leaches tannic acid into the tank water and gradually gives the water a light brownish tinge.

The water color has no affect on the fish, in fact many species prefer living in stained water conditions however,  this can be minimized by pre-soaking the wood before placing it into the tank.

If you purchase driftwood from a tropical fish shop or online; completely submerge the wood in a plastic container for a couple of weeks before introducing it into your tank.   This will reduce the amount of stain that leaches into the water, but it also somewhat reduces the effectiveness of the entire process.

Some people recommend boiling the wood before soaking to sterilize it.   This practice is fine if the wood has not already been submerged, like bogwood or collected in the wild from a local stream.

Some species of Loaches and Plecostomus eat the microorganisms that that grow on the wood, and several species actually eat the wood itself.   Boiling the bogwood partially defeats the benefits of using it in your tank for these fish.

Be careful about where you purchase the driftwood for your tank.   For aesthetic purposes, some suppliers add chemicals to the wood  that can kill your fish.   These types of driftwood are mostly used for reptile and amphibian terrariums.

The best and cheapest way to add driftwood to your tank is to collect it yourself form your local creek, stream, or lake.

Make sure the wood is already submerged when you pull it from the water.   If there is too much mud or grime on the wood, rinse it off or use a pressure washer to lightly clean off the piece and then add it to your tank.

• Indian Almond Leaves (Catappa)

Tropical fish keeping enthusiasts have been using Catappa, or Indian Almond Leaves for Blackwater aquariums and as a “poor mans water conditioner” for years.

The Almond leaves lower the pH of the water and soften it.   Like driftwood and some bogwood,  Almond

Indian Almond Leaves

leaves also release tannins into the tank water, however these natural chemicals actually prevent and cure fish diseases.  The tannins act as an antioxidant and anti inflammatory and are generally recognized as a natural health aid or tonic for many “blackwater” aquarium fish.

Most people soak the almond leaves in water to release the tannins prior to adding the leaves to their tank.   Although this will keep the water in your tank less stained, it also reduces the effectiveness of the leaves.

Place the dried leaves in a 5 gallon bucket until they become water logged and sink to the bottom.   This takes about a couple of days, then add them to your tank.

In their natural habitat, many South American tropical fish live among submerged leaves on the bottom of tannin colored streams, ponds and lakes with lots of natural clutter.   These fish thrive with the addition of leaves in the tank and prefer living in tannin stained waters.  The stained water also bring out the colors in these fish.

Like driftwood, you can purchase Catappa from tropical fish shops, online, or collect local leaves yourself.

Over time the leaves will break down in your tank.   You do not need to remove the broken down leaves from your aquarium. They will not harm your fish and when they have broken down altogether, you can just add more leaves.

Some species of leaves will take longer to break down than others.   Indian Almond Leaves break down in three to four months.   Oak and Beech leaves will last at least twice as long.  Some leaves produce more tannins than others, so some experimentation is necessary.

• Peat Moss

Peat moss is another way to naturally lower the pH in your aquarium, but peat moss will also discolor your tank water.

Except for some species of Killifish, the best way to use peat moss is through your outside filtration system.

Place some peat moss in a filter bag, a clean sock, or a piece of women’s panty hose in your canister filter, an outside filter, or inside the sump of your trickle filter.

The peat moss acts as a second “media filter” and as the tank water flows through the peat, it gradually lowers the pH in the tank.

Peat moss can be purchased in bags of various sizes, as pellets, or in chunks from

Peat Moss

your local tropical fish shop or gardening store.

Some tropical fish keeping enthusiasts place a bag of peat moss in the corner of the tank until the proper pH is achieved.   This method works well but distracts from the aesthetics of the aquarium.

Natural peat moss will give a yellowish brown tinge to tank water as the pH is lowered.   Many tropical fish keeping enthusiasts recommend pretreating the peat moss in a separate bucket of water for a few days to reduce the amount of tinge before putting it into the filter system.

Soaking seems to work without diminishing the effectiveness of the buffering qualities of the peat.

Some trial and error may be needed to target the pH you want in your aquarium.

The amount of water changes you perform on your tank, how hard your water is, and how large a system you are treating all determines how much peat you will need to drop the pH to the level you are trying to achieve.

Regardless of which method you choose, it is always better to naturally lower the pH in your tank rather than using harsh chemicals that can alter the pH either too much or to quickly.

Store bought chemicals can result in drastic changes in water chemistry that can produce illness or death of your valued tropical fish.

The next time you need to alter the chemistry in your aquarium, try using these three easy ways to lower the pH in your tank the natural way.