Dwarf Pygmy Angelfish (Centropyge argi)

The Dwarf Pygmy Angelfish (Centropyge argi) is a popular deep water species known to tropical fish keeping enthusiasts as the Cherub Angelfish, Cherubfish, Pygmy Angelfish, or Atlantic Pygmy is found in the Western Atlantic, Gulf of Mexico, the Caribbean, Florida, and the Bahamas.

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The Dwarf Pygmy Angelfish has a dark royal blue body with a yellow to orange colored face and throat.   The edges of their dorsal and ventral fins are edged in black and powder blue outside, and the trailing edges of the dorsal, ventral, and caudal fins have horizontal black bars.

There is no reliable way to differentiate between sexes except that males may be larger than females.

Like most dwarf angels, Dwarf Pygmy Angelfish are all born as females.   As they grow the larger, the most dominant fish in a group will transform into a male.   Should the male die, the next in line in the hierarchy will then turn into a male.

Keeping several juvenile specimens together is the best way to obtain a mated pair.  It usually takes about two to three months for females turn and pair up.   Watch for aggressiveness during this time period.

Dwarf Pygmy Angelfish are a pugnacious, omnivorous species that can be quite aggressive with others of their own kind.   They are best kept separate from other angelfish when housed in an aquarium environment.

Although it’s best not to keep Dwarf Pygmy Angelfish with fish of the same genera; they can be introduced as juveniles into an aquarium of significant size with a substantial amount of live rock with enough grazing areas for each dwarf angel to stake out their own territory.    Introducing multiple specimens into the tank at the same time may help with aggression levels, but they will quickly establish a pecking order.   Remove individuals that get bullied or overly pestered.

Because Centropyge argi grow to only 3″ in length, they can be successfully housed in a 30 gallon tank, however, they are best kept in an aged aquarium of at least 55 gallon capacity or larger; especially if you are keeping a mated pair or a small group of this species.    An “aged aquarium” should be at least 6 months old to provide the necessary algae required to feed your angelfish.

Dwarf Pygmy Angelfish do well in a typical reef setting with large amounts of live rock arranged into shelters and hiding places. The live rock should provide enough grazing area for microalgae growth that is necessary to maintain the health of the fish, but because they are constant grazers, Atlantic Pygmy angelfish will eat away at some of the reef structure and are NOT considered reef safe.

You should expect nipping on soft corals, stony coral polyps, sessile invertebrates, and clam mantles.    This species loves to nibble at clams, especially the Tridacna species.

Because water quality is essential to all marine residents, regulator water changes are mandatory.  In an aquarium of 30 to 55 gallon capacity, a 10% to 15% bi weekly water change is recommended. In aquariums over 100 gallons, a 20% monthly water change is considered normal maintenance. Water changes should NOT include scrubbing algae off of the interior of the tank.

Dwarf Pygmy Angelfish have been bred in captivity but raising them is extremely challenging.   The aggression and fighting can be dealt with, but raising the larvae with the proper microscopic foods to feed them is the most difficult part.

Dwarf Pygmy Angelfish are protogynous hermaphrodites that practice harem breeding.   A small group of juveniles raised together will form a hierarchy and the largest most dominant fish should eventually turn into a male.

Being pelagic spawners, the male and female will rise to the top of the tank where the pair release the fertilized eggs into the water column.  The eggs are carried by the water column to the bottom where they hatch out into very small larvae in about 20 hours.  The larvae will survive on their yolk sacs for 2 or 3 days but then need to be fed microscopic algae which may or may not be present in the tank.   Tall breeding tanks are recommended for obtaining best results.

Dwarf Pygmy Angelfish are algae grazers that require feeding 2 to 3 times per day.    They do best on a varied diet of spirulina, marine algae, mysis, brine, or frozen shrimp, high quality angelfish preparations, and other meaty items.   This is in addition to the live rock already present in the aquarium.

Dwarf Pygmy Angelfish (Centropyge argi) are relatively common to tropical fish keeping enthusiasts and are available from fish shops, importers, online auction sites, and a variety of online retail sources at reasonable prices.

http://mycbforum.com/videos/Dwarf Pygmy Angelfish (Centropyge argi).mp4

Minimum Tank Size: 30 gallons
Aquarium Type: Not Reef Compatible
Care Level: Moderate
Temperament: Semi-aggressive
Aquarium Hardiness: Hardy
Water Conditions: 72-82°F, 8 to 12 dKH , pH 8.1 – 8.4, sg 1.020-1.025
Max. Size: 3″
Color Form: Orange, Blue
Diet: Omnivore
Compatibility: Single species
Origin: Western Atlantic, Bahamas
Family: Pomacanthidae
Lifespan: 6 years
Aquarist Experience Level: Advanced

Flame Angelfish (Centropyge loriculus)

The Flame Angelfish (Centropyge loriculus) known to tropical fish keeping enthusiasts as Flame Angel, Flaming Angelfish, Red Angelfish, and Japanese Pygmy Angelfish was first discovered in the Society Islands in the Pacific Ocean.   They range throughout Western and Central Pacific waters including Belau, Tahiti, the Hawaiian, Marquesas, Marshall, Christmas, and Ducie Islands, as well as the Great Barrier Reef and Pitcairn group of Islands.

Most tropical fish keeping enthusiasts agree that because of their beauty, hardiness, and relatively non aggressive personality, the Flame Angelfish beyond a doubt the most popular dwarf species for novice and expert aquarists.

In their natural habitat, Flame Angelfish live in small groups of three to seven individuals.   They prefer stony coral reefs in clear lagoons where they congregate at depths of 15 to 82 feet along the outer slopes of the reef.

Flame Angelfish (Centropyge loriculus) have the typically oval body and rounded fins that most dwarf angelfish posses.   Their stunning colors and markings vary somewhat depending on where they are collected.

Flame Angelfish (Centropyge loriculus)

Flame Angelfish generally have a vivid red to red orange body color with black vertical stripes on their sides and bright blue tipped dorsal and anal fins.

Flame Angels collected in the Central Pacific around the Marshall Islands are colored an intense red with thicker black vertical bars along the body.

The Christmas Island varieties normally have a more red orange body color with thin, narrow vertical black bars along the sides.

Flame Angelfish (Centropyge loriculus)

The Flame Angels collected from Cebu are red orange with blurred black bars and a tint of yellow in between the bars.

The rarely collected Flame Angels from Tahiti have a blood red body with very little to no yellow.

Specimens collected from the Hawaiian Islands are generally larger and have a deeper, more vibrant red body color than fish from the Indo-Pacific region, which are more red orange.   A slimmer deep water variety is also occasionally available to tropical fish keeping enthusiasts.

Fish collected in the Marquesas tend to possess a few to no bars, except for a black blotch just behind the gill cover.

The fin edges on all varieties of Flame Angelfish are colored an almost fluorescent, deep bluish purple.

All Flame Angelfish are born female and as they grow, the larger, most dominant fish will transform into a male.   The less dominant fish in the group remain as females. Should the male die or is removed from the tank, the next dominant fish in the hierarchy will become a male. It usually takes about two to three months for females turn and pair up.   To determine which Flame Angelfish in your tank is a male, look for the fish that is larger with bigger blue streaks on the dorsal and anal fins.

Although Flame Angels can be kept with corals and invertebrates, they may nip at large polyp stony corals, zoanthids, tridacnid clam mantles, and occasionally some soft coral polyps.   Keeping them well fed will usually cut down on their desire to feed on corals.

Flame Angelfish can be housed in a community tank with other semi aggressive species such as anthias, clownfish, tangs, wrasses, and other dwarf angelfish, but they are happiest when kept as mated pairs in small groups.,

A single Flame Angelfish can be housed in an aged 30 gallon tank with a substantial amount of live rock, but when corals, a pair, or a small group of angelfish are present; an aged tank of at least 100 gallon capacity with a large amount of live rock arranged into shelters and hiding places is recommended.    They do best in a typical reef setting with large amounts of live rock that provide enough grazing area for microalgae growth which is necessary to maintain the health of the fish.

Water quality is essential to all marine residents, so regulator water changes are mandatory. In an aquarium of 55 to 65 gallon capacity, a 10% to 15% bi weekly water change is recommended. In an aquarium of 100 gallons or over, a 20% monthly water change would be considered normal maintenance.   Because Flame Angelfish are constant grazers, water changes should NOT include scrubbing algae off of the interior of the aquarium.

Flame Angelfish are happy with any amount of water movement and moderate lighting.   They will hang at all levels of the tank.   Also, be aware that Copper in any amount is lethal to this species, so do not use any copper containing decorations or tubing in the system.

Although it is extremely difficult to breed Flame Angelfish in an aquarium environment, several varieties of Centropyge loriculus have spawned successfully in captivity.   Keeping several juvenile specimens together is the best way to obtain a mated pair.

Flame Angelfish are pelagic (egg scatterers) that rise up through the water column at dusk, releasing both eggs and sperm in a cloud.    To encourage spawning, keep your fish in as deep a tank as possible and artificially simulate the natural day to night diurnl environment by gradually turning off the aquarium lighting over a set time period, every day.   Timers are the easiest way to simulate the diurnal environment.

The fertilized eggs drift to the bottom of the tank where they hatch in just under 24 hours.   After hatching, the small larvae require microscopic algae within 24 to 36 hours to survive.  Because raising the fry is so difficult, a great deal of prior preparation is required to adequately feed them.   The larvae will only eat certain kinds of live foods. They will not eat rotifers and baby brine shrimp are to large for them to eat, however, they may eat copepods.

Flame Angelfish are algae grazers that in an aquarium environment require a diet of Spirulina, marine algae, mysis shrimp, brine or frozen shrimp, high quality angelfish preparations, and other meaty items.   They should be given 2 or 3 small daily feedings.

Because Flame Angelfish requires more algae and seaweed in its diet than most other angelfish; substantial amounts of live rock are also needed in the tank to provide enough beneficial macro algae growth for the fish to graze on.    Aged live rock also benefits the larvae when a successful spawning takes place.

Most varieties of Flame Angelfish (Centropyge loriculus) are relatively common and are available to tropical fish keeping enthusiasts from fish shops, importers, online auction sites, and a variety of online retail sources at modest prices.   Other varieties like the rarely available Tahiti variant can fetch a hefty price.

Because it’s not unusual for Flame Angelfish to be shipped with pre existing parasites or other diseases, it is highly advisable to keep them in quarantine for a few days before introducing them into a reef system.

Approximate purchase sizes are: Small: 1″ to 1-1/2″; Medium: 1-1/2″ to 2-1/2″; Large: 2-1/2″ to 4″.

Flame Angelfish (Centropyge loriculus)

Minimum Tank Size: 70 gallons
Aquarium Type: Reef Compatible with caution
Care Level: Moderate
Temperament: Semi-aggressive
Aquarium Hardiness: Hardy
Water Conditions: 72-78° F, 8 to 12 dGH , pH 8.1 – 8.4, sg 1.020-1.025
Max. Size: 4″
Color Form: Yellow, Blue, Orange
Diet: Omnivore
Compatibility: Single species
Origin: Indo-Pacific as far north as the Hawaiian Islands
Family: Pomacanthidae
Lifespan: 5-7 years
Aquarist Experience Level: Advanced

Half Black Angelfish (Centropyge vroliki)

The Half Black Angelfish (Centropyge vroliki) known to tropical fish keeping enthusiasts as the Half Black Pygmy Angelfish or Pearlscale Angelfish is found in the in the Western Pacific from Japan to the Great Barrier Reef; including the Christmas Islands.

Most Half Black Angelfish sold in the aquarium trade are taken from Indonesian and Indian Ocean waters.  Because they are less aggressive than other dwarf angelfish species and more likely to behave themselves among other residents; tropical fish keeping enthusiasts consider them an excellent addition to mixed species and reef aquariums.

Half Black Angelfish (Centropyge vroliki)

Centropyge vroliki as the name implies are half black.   The front part of their body is covered with light gray to pearl colored scales that fade into a deep black coloration that covers the back portion of the body.   The anal, caudal, and rear half of the dorsal fins are outlined in a bright baby blue color and the entire black and white pattern is accented by a yellow to yellow orange coloring.

Half Black Angelfish posses an orange ring around the eye, an orange blotch in the middle to the rear of the gill cover, and yellowish accents on the pectoral and front half or the dorsal fins.   Males are indistinguishable from females.    Because Half Black Angelfish are well known for cross breeding with Eibli and Lemonpeel angelfish, some beautiful and interesting hybrids are occasionally seen in the hobby.

Provided with enough space, Dwarf Half Black Angelfish are generally peaceful and behave themselves in a community environment, however, when crowded they can become feisty and aggressive, especially with members of their own species and with similar looking fish.

When Half Black Angelfish are housed with larger or more aggressive fish and get bullied; they quickly become passive, lethargic, and may even act more peaceful. They do best in a tank with plenty of swimming room and live rock arranged into places where they can quickly hide, especially when there is more than one dwarf angelfish in the same aquarium.

Although a single juvenile Half Black Angelfish can be housed in an “aged” 30 gallon tank, they do much better in an aged aquarium of at least 55 gallon capacity, or even larger; especially if you are keeping a mated pair of this species.   An “aged aquarium” should be at least 6 months old and have a substantial growth of algae to provide the necessary diet to feed your angelfish.

A well aquascaped reef setting with a large amount of cured live rock arranged into shelters, archways, overhangs, and hiding places will provide enough grazing area for the microalgae growth necessary to maintain the health of the fish, however, adult Half Black Angelfish are constant grazers and will slowly eat away at some of the reef structure making them not entirely “reef safe”. When not fed properly, they often begin feeding on polyps, soft corals, and clam mantles.

Water quality is essential to all marine residents, so regulator water changes are mandatory. In an aquarium of 55 to 65 gallon capacity, a 10% to 15% bi weekly water change is recommended. Because Half Black Angelfish are constant grazers, water changes should NOT include scrubbing algae off of the interior of the aquarium.

Although Half Black Angelfish have been bred in an aquarium environment, their larvae are extremely difficult to raise.   All angelfish are born as females and as they grow the larger, the most dominant fish will transform into a male.

The best way to obtain a mated pair is to keep several juvenile specimens together.   It usually takes 2 or 3 months before a female will turn into a male and pair up.   Becomes the larger fish turns into a male, making a pair is possible by purchasing a larger Half Black Angelfish and keeping it with a smaller one.   Within a few months they will usually assume their roles as male and female.   Their mating ritual is similar to that of the Lemonpeel Angelfish which they readily cross breed with in the wild.

Centropyge vroliki is well known for cross breeding with Centropyge eibli (Eibli Angel) and Centropyge flavissima (Lemonpeel Angel) which both make good tank mates if they are added to the aquarium at the same time.

In their natural habitat, Half Black angelfish graze on algae and feed on small crustaceans that hide in the algae.   Juveniles are predominately plankton eaters that switch to a microalgae and crustacean diet as they become adults.   In a well established aquarium environment with plenty of cured live rock, Centropyge vroliki are good eaters that can be fed spirulina flakes, omnivore pellets, leafy greens, frozen mysis shrimp, and other meaty crustaceans like clams and shrimp.   Feed 2 to 3 times daily.

Although juveniles are considered fairly safe for reef tanks, as they grow they can develop a taste for soft coral polyps, brain corals, zoanthids, and clam mantles.  Keeping them well fed will usually avoid this problem. Half Black Angelfish will not bother crabs or shrimp in a reef tank.

Tropical fish keeping enthusiasts can obtain Half Black Angelfish (Centropyge vroliki) from fish shops, importers, online auction sites, and a variety of online retail sources at relatively reasonable prices.    Approximate purchase sizes online will vary from Small: 1″ to 1-3/4″; Medium: 1-3/4″ to 2-1/2″; to Large: 2-1/2″ to 4″.

Half Black Angelfish (Centropyge vroliki)

Minimum Tank Size: 55 gallons
Aquarium Type: Cautiously Reef Compatible
Care Level: Moderate
Temperament: Semi-aggressive
Aquarium Hardiness: Hardy
Water Conditions: 72-78°F, dKH 8 to 12 , pH 8.1 – 8.4, sg 1.020-1.025
Max. Size: 4″
Color Form: Black, Pearl
Diet: Omnivore
Compatibility: Single species
Origin: Indonesia
Family: Pomacanthidae
Lifespan: 12 years
Aquarist Experience Level: Intermediate

Heralds Angelfish (Centropyge Heraldi)

Heralds Angelfish (Centropyge Heraldi) known to tropical fish keeping enthusiasts as False Lemonpeel Angelfish, Golden Angelfish, Yellow Pygmy Angelfish or Yellow Angelfish are a common dwarf species that range from Central Pacific to Western Pacific waters.   It is found in the Pacific Ocean from Taiwan to the Tuamoto Island, and from Southern Japan to the Great Barrier Reef.

Found throughout the South Pacific, Heralds Angelfish are often misidentified and sold as Lemonpeel Angelfish.

Heralds Angelfish (Centropyge Heraldi)

Typical of all dwarf angelfish, Herald’s Angelfish (Centropyge Heraldi) have a small, elongated, oval shaped body and rounded fins.   They have a bright yellow body color with a darker colored area just behind the eye.

They lack the blue ring around the eye and dark blue accents around the gills and fins that Lemonpeel Angelfish (Centropyge flavissimus) possess.

Male Herald’s Angelfish have black on the face and in some areas, have darker anal and dorsal fins.  Mature males normally have more pointed dorsal and anal fins and often develop a dark area behind the eye that may contain yellow spots.

Heralds Angelfish (Centropyge Heraldi)

A unique variant of Heralds Angelfish from the Coral Sea area of the Great Barrier Reef called the Yellow and Black Heralds Angelfish or Woodhead’s Angelfish is occasionally available to tropical fish keeping enthusiasts.

In the Coral Sea area of the Great Barrier Reef, the Solomon Islands, Fiji, Tonga, and the Philippines, this species is colored bright yellow with a jet black horizontal band or stripe edged in blue on the top rear half of the dorsal fin.   Some specimens also have a black saddle on the back and others posses both attributes.

Originally believed to be a different species described as Centropyge woodheadi and named Woodhead’s Angelfish; it is now considered to be a color variant.

Herald’s Angelfish are active, interesting swimmers and can make a colorful addition to an established marine aquarium.   Like all dwarf angelfish, they are peaceful with all other marine fish except other dwarf angels.   It does well in a community aquarium with peaceful or semi aggressive fish provided it is added to the tank close to last.

Herald’s Angelfish can be highly territorial and become extremely aggressive when housed with other dwarf angels and towards fish with similar coloration or shape, especially the Lemonpeel Angelfish.

If you must try to breed them or keep a pair or a trio, a very large aquarium of at least 150 gallon capacity with a huge amount of live rock is necessary to provide enough grazing territory for each fish.

A single Juvenile Herald’s Angelfish can be housed in an aged aquarium as small as 30 gallons, provided a sufficient amount of live rock is present for them graze on micro algae and hide among when threatened.

Although Centropyge Heraldi can be kept in a 30 gallon tank; as they grow, they do better when kept in an aged aquarium of at least 55 gallon capacity or larger.   An “aged aquarium” should be at least 6 months old to provide all the necessary algae required to feed your angelfish.

Heralds Angelfish are easier to keep than Lemonpeel Angelfish and do best in reef settings with substantial amounts of live rock arranged into shelters and hiding places. Large amounts of live rock are needed to provide enough grazing area for microalgae growth that is necessary to maintain the health of the fish.

Heralds Angelfish (Centropyge Heraldi)

Like Lemon Peel Angelfish; Heralds Angelfish will nip away at some of the reef structure, especially large polyped stony corals and clam mantles, but in general they are not too destructive, especially with noxious corals.

The neat thing about this angelfish is their desire to eat detritus and micro algae, both of which are unwanted in a reef tank.   They will completely ignore non-sessile invertebrates such as shrimp and crabs and will also help control several types of algae and diatoms in the tank.

Water quality is essential to all marine residents, so a good filtration system and regulator water changes are mandatory. In an aquarium of 55 to 65 gallon capacity, a 10% to 15% bi weekly water change is recommended. In an aquarium over 100 gallons, a 20% monthly water change would be considered normal maintenance. Because Heralds Angelfish are constant grazers, water changes should NOT include scrubbing algae off of the interior of the aquarium.

As of this date, Centropyge Heraldi have not been bred in an aquarium environment.

In their natural environment, Herald’s Angelfish are egg scatterers, and like all Centropyge angelfish have similar spawning rituals.   The male will normally court several females. A pair will circle each other and when ready to spawn will swim upwards in the water column to fertilize the eggs.   After the eggs are fertilized by belly to belly contact, they free float until they are mature enough to settle into the substrate and hatch into larvae.   The larvae are given no parental supervision or protection.

After spawning, the pair will rush back to the bottom where the male will chase the female for a short time and then move on to the next receptive female.

Herald’s Angelfish are algae grazers that feed mainly on algae, small crustaceans, and worms that may be hiding in the algae.   In an aquarium environment, to supplement the natural algae growth on your live rock in the tank, they should be offered a diet of Spirulina, marine algae, Mysis, brine, or frozen shrimp, high quality angelfish preparations, and other meaty items.    Feed them what they will consume within a few minutes 2 to 3 times a day.   Without herbivore foods in their diet, angelfish can develop blindness in just a few months

This dwarf angelfish is often sold as part of a “cleaning crew” to control the green algae Crunchy Hair Grass of the Boodlea genera, several Green Hair Algae Derbesia species including Derbesia marina, Diatoms, Green String Lettuce, some other hair like algae, and the Sea Lettuces Ulva ridida and Ulva lactuca. It is also known to eat red slime algae including two species of the Oscillatora genera.

Herald’s Angelfish (Centropyge Heraldi) are sometimes available to tropical fish keeping enthusiasts in pet shops and on line from importers, online auction sites, and a variety of online retail sources at reasonable prices.

Minimum Tank Size: 30 gallons
Aquarium Type: Reef Compatible With Caution
Care Level: Intermediate
Temperament: Semi-aggressive
Aquarium Hardiness: Moderately Hardy
Water Conditions: 72-82°F, 8 to 12 dGH , pH 8.1 – 8.4, sg 1.023-1.025
Max. Size: 4″
Color Form: Yellow, Black
Diet: Omnivore
Compatibility: Single species
Origin: Western Pacific, Central Pacific
Family: Pomacanthidae
Lifespan: 10 years
Aquarist Experience Level: Intermediate

Lemonpeel Angelfish (Centropyge flavissimus)

The Lemonpeel Angelfish (Centropyge flavissimus) Marshall Islands

The Lemonpeel Angelfish (Centropyge flavissimus) known to tropical fish keeping enthusiasts as the Dwarf Lemonpeel Angel is found throughout Indo-Pacific oceans however, specimens have been reported inhabiting the reefs in Kaneohe Bay off Oahu, Hawaii as well as off the coast of Florida.   They are not endemic to the Hawaiian Islands or Florida and their presence is thought to be due to illegal releases of unwanted aquarium residents into these inshore waters.

Lemonpeel Angelfish (Centropyge flavissimus)

The Lemonpeel Angelfish has a uniform yellow body color with a blue ring around the eyes and dark blue accents around the gills and edges of the dorsal, ventral, and caudal fins. Juvenile Lemonpeel Angelfish have a large black eyespot on the side that is often edged with blue.

All angelfish are born as females and as they grow the larger, the most dominant fish will transform into a male.   Should the male die, the next in line in the hierarchy will become a male.

Keeping several juvenile specimens together is the best way to obtain a mated pair.  It usually takes about two to three months for females turn and pair up. Watch for aggressiveness during this time period.

Lemonpeel Angelfish are often confused with Herald’s Angelfish (Centropyge heralde) which have a yellow to yellow/orange body color and lack the blue accents around the eyes and fin edges.

Lemonpeel Angelfish are an aggressive, omnivorous species that are best kept separate from other angelfish when housed in an aquarium environment.   They do well with other reef fish but should be closely monitored when initially introduced.

Although it’s best not to keep Lemonpeel Angelfish with fish of the same genera; they can be introduced as juveniles into an aquarium of significant size with a large amount of live rock to create enough grazing areas for each dwarf angel to stake out their own territory.

Although Centropyge flavissimus can be initially housed in a 30 gallon tank, they are best kept in an aged aquarium of at least 55 gallon capacity or larger; especially if you are keeping a mated pair or a trio of this species.   An “aged aquarium” should be at least 6 months old to provide all the necessary algae required to feed your angelfish.

They do best in a typical reef setting with a large amount of live rock arranged into shelters and hiding places.   Large amounts of live rock will provide enough grazing area for microalgae growth which is necessary to maintain the health of the fish, but because they are constant grazers, Lemon Peel Angelfish will eat away at some of the reef structure and are NOT considered reef safe.   You should expect soft corals, stony polyp corals, sessile invertebrates, and clam mantles to be slowly destroyed by Lemonpeel angelfish over time.

Water quality is essential to all marine residents, so regulator water changes are mandatory.  In an aquarium of 55 to 65 gallon capacity, a 10% to 15% bi weekly water change is recommended.   In an aquarium over 100 gallons, a 20% monthly water change would be considered normal maintenance.   Because Lemonpeel angelfish are constant grazers, water changes should NOT include scrubbing algae off of the interior of the aquarium.

Lemonpeel Angelfish are pelagic (egg scatterers) and although they are extremely difficult to breed, they have been bred in an aquarium environment.

They require a deep tank, stable lighting, warm pristine water quality, and sufficient food for the emerging larvae. Centropyge flavissimus need a water temperature of 79 to 83 degrees F for 14 to 16 hours a day and at least a 20 inch deep tank to allow room for their spawning ritual.

Lemonpeel Angelfish reproduce by external fertilization.   They perform a “dancing” ritual and release their eggs and sperm simultaneously at dusk.   As they dance, they rise up into the water column and release their eggs and sperm near the surface of the water.   This spawning behavior can be encouraged by artificially simulating the natural dusk light cycle.

The eggs fall to the bottom where they hatch in just under 24 hours.   After hatching, the small larvae require microscopic algae within 24 to 36 hours for their minute mouths.   Because raising the fry is so difficult, a great deal of prior preparation is required to adequately feed them.   The larvae will only eat certain kinds of live foods. They will not eat rotifers and baby brine shrimp are to large for them to eat, however, they may eat copepods.

Lemonpeel Angelfish are algae grazers that in an aquarium environment require a diet of Spirulina, marine algae, mysis, brine or frozen shrimp, high quality angelfish preparations, and other meaty items. They should be given 3 small daily feedings.

Because the Lemonpeel Angelfish requires more algae and seaweed in its diet than most other angelfish; substantial amounts of live rock are needed in the tank to provide enough beneficial macro algae growth for the fish to graze on.

Lemonpeel Angelfish (Centropyge flavissimus) are relatively common in the hobby and tropical fish keeping enthusiasts can obtain them from fish shops, importers, online auction sites, and a variety of online retail sources at reasonable prices.

Lemonpeel Angelfish (Centropyge flavissimus)

Minimum Tank Size: 55 gallons
Aquarium Type: Not Reef Compatible
Care Level: Moderate
Temperament: Semi-aggressive
Aquarium Hardiness: Hardy
Water Conditions: 72-80°F, 8 to 12 dGH , pH 8.1 – 8.4, sg 1.020-1.025
Max. Size: 5.5″
Color Form: Yellow, Blue
Diet: Omnivore
Compatibility: Single species
Origin: Indo-Pacific oceans
Family: Pomacanthidae
Lifespan: 11 years
Aquarist Experience Level: Advanced

MBIPIA LUTEA (Mbipia cf. Lutea) Pair

MBIPIA LUTEA (Mbipia cf. Lutea) is a beautiful endangered Hap species that may already be extinct in Lake Victoria.    It is endemic to Lake Victoria where it has been collected from the western park of Speke Gulf and also from the Sengerema region, in Tanzania.   Mbipia Lutea are a shallow water species that frequent gently sloping rocky shorelines in depths of up to 7 feet.

In their natural habitat, Mbipia cf. Lutea are polygamous maternal mouth brooders that feed primarily on algae and vegetable matter. Because they are an endangered speciesi, the main source of Mbipia cf. Lutea for tropical fish keeping enthusiasts is from captive bred specimens.

MBIPIA LUTEA (Mbipia cf. Lutea)

Mbipia cf. Lutea have dark vertical stripes with a less prominent horizontal stripe along the lateral line. They have patches of orange/peach on the body and tail, and an aqua dorsal and anal fin tinged with orange/red.   Three egg marks on the anal fins and a vertical bar that goes through the eye. Females have the same striping pattern but are much less colorful than males.

The male’s spectacularly bright colors are most prominently displayed during the breeding season.

Mbipia cf. Lutea are best kept in at least a 40 gallon aquarium with a sand or fine gravel substrate with stacked rocks situated into cave like hiding places. Although plants are not necessary in this typical rocky Victorian type setup, Mbipia cf. Lutea will appreciate a piece or two of African Driftwood in their tank.

Even though MBIPIA LUTEA (Mbipia cf. Lutea) are small cichlids, they are aggressive to others of their own species, particularly during breeding.   When housing one male with a small harem of 3 to 4 or more females, a tank size of at least 65 gallon capacity is highly recommended.

If housed in a community environment, they do best with other Lake Victorian cichlids of approximately the same size.

A wet/dry trickle filter or canister type filtration system along with a small power head and regular water changes is recommended to maintain the necessary water quality for this species.

MBIPIA LUTEA are polygamous substrate spawners that are relatively easy to breed in an aquarium environment, provided that male aggression is kept in check. When ready to breed, the male will hollow out a pit in the substrate and actively court any ripe females in the tank. The females care for the offspring and will hold the fry for approximately 2 weeks. Because these fish are so hard on each other, isolation is highly recommended.

Feed the fry very small foods such as finely crushed flakes, Hikari First Bites, baby brine shrimp, or a commercial herbivore fry food.

The fry of this species are also highly aggressive so it is advisable to grow them out in a large tank of at least 55 gallons to allow for larger territories. The fry begin to develop coloration at a very young age.   Females of 1.25 inches can hold 10 fry or more.

MBIPIA LUTEA are herbivores that in their natural habitat primarily feed on algae and other vegetable matter. In an aquarium environment, they do well on an omnivorous diet of spirulina based flakes, an appropriately size pellet, fresh spinach, romaine lettuce, and fresh, frozen, or freeze dried brine shrimp fed as an occasional “treat”.

Because of their endangered status, MBIPIA LUTEA (Mbipia cf. Lutea) are not common in the aquarium trade to tropical fish keeping enthusiasts however, they are available from breeders through on line cichlid forums and specialty fish shops.

MBIPIA LUTEA (Mbipia cf. Lutea)

Minimum Tank Size: 40 gallons
Care Level: Difficult
Temperament: Aggressive
Aquarium Hardiness: Hardy
Water Conditions: 72-80°F, dH 12> , pH 7.2-8.4
Max. Size: Males 4″
Color Form: Red, Orange, Aqua, Yellow
Diet: Herbivore
Compatibility: Single species or Victoria community
Origin: Lake Victoria, Africa
Family: Cichlidae
Lifespan: 4-10 years
Aquarist Experience Level: Advanced

Violet Blushing Shark (Labeo boga)

The Violet Blushing Shark (Labeo boga) known to tropical fish keeping enthusiasts as the Violet Shark, Violet-gilled Shark, and Red-gilled Violet Shark is found in Pakistan, India, Nepal, Myanmar, and Bangladesh.

The critically endangered Violet Blushing Shark is a peaceful, calm, semi aggressive bottom feeding species that occurs in schools in most of the major river systems of it’s range, including the Ganges and Bramaputra. In India, it is not found in the western slopes of the Ghats mountains.   Although Labeo boga is widely distributed in it’s range, habitat deterioration, extensive poaching, and over fishing has rendered the species critically endangered.

Violet Blushing Sharks have a basically colorless body color with a vague touch of blush pinkish-grey, or violet around the cheeks that lend to it’s common name, and a transparent gill cover.   They are a slender pale fish and although the outlines of their internal organs can be seen, their bodies are not actually transparent.    Labeo boga have narrow, elongated bodies, a “snout” with thick lips, two hidden barbels in the lateral groove, and medium size eyes located just behind the middle of the length of their heads. They have crescent shaped mouths with rather narrow upper and lower jaws.   The dorsal fins are located well ahead of their ventral fin, and they have deeply forked tails.

Violet Blushing Sharks are best housed as single species or in groups of at least 6 or more fish, in a moderately planted aquarium of at least 125 gallons, with a coarse sand or fine gravel substrate, some river rocks, and some driftwood for them to hide among.   Smaller groupings will lead to aggressive behavior.    They need a lot of free swimming space and a good filtration system that provides good circulation, and a power-head or two to provide a high dissolved oxygen content in the water. In short their environment should mimic the bed of a flowing river.   They prefer subdued lighting, a pH of 6.6-7.9, a constant temperature, and a minimum (less than 10 ppm of nitrate, no ammonia or nitrite) of nitrogenous waste.   A tightly fitting cover is also necessary as these species are quite agile jumpers.

Violet Blushing Sharks have been peacefully kept with sharks of different species of the same size, rainbowfish, Botiid loaches, Clown loaches, Devarios, and other larger peaceful Cyprinids.

The Violet Blushing Sharks breeding habits are relatively unknown, hence the reason they have not yet been bred in an aquarium environment.

In their natural habitat, the Violet Blusihng Shark is primarily a benthic feeder that forages on worms, small crustaceans, and algae on the river bottom. In an aquarium environment, they will accept a majority of omnivore sinking pellets, algae wafers, spinach, worms, and live, frozen or freeze dried bloodworms, tubifex, dried fish, prawns, etc.

The Violet Blushing Shark (Labeo boga) is rarely available to tropical fish keeping enthusiasts, partly because of their unique appearance and endangered status. They are occasionally available online from wholesale importers and fish auction sites.

Violet Blushing Shark (Labeo boga)

Minimum Tank Size: 125 gal.
Care Level: Difficult
Temperament: Peaceful
Aquarium Hardiness: Hardy
Water Conditions: 68-78°F, H 36-268 ppm, pH 6.6 – 7.9
Max. Size: 12″
Color Form: Silverish, Violet
Diet: Omnivore
Compatibility: groups of 6
Origin: Pakistan, Nepal, Bangladesh, and Myanmar
Family: Cyprinidae
Lifespan: 10 years or more
Aquarist Experience Level: Advanced

Paroon Shark (Pangasius sanitwongsei)

The Paroon Shark (Pangasius sanitwongsei) known to tropical fish keeping enthusiasts as the Hi-fin tiger shark, Iridescent Shark, Giant Pangasius, Chao Phraya Giant Catfish, Pla Tepa, Emperor ID Shark, Hi-Fin Bull Shark, or Hi-fin Pangasius is native to the lower Mekong river which meanders through China, Thailand, Laos, Cambodia, and Vietnam and the Chao Phraya River, in Thailand.

Paroon Shark (Pangasius sanitwongsei)

Pangasius sanitwongsei are extremely large catfish that grow to almost 10 feet in length and have pointed, more elongated dorsal and caudal fins than Iridescent Sharks.   Iridescent Sharks (Pangasius hypopthalmus) max out at a little over 4 feet in length and have rounded, more blunt dorsal and caudal fins.

Juvenile Paroon Sharks (Pangasius sanitwongsei) are frequently sold as Iridescent Sharks (Pangasius hypophthalmus) which do not grow quite as large, but still outgrow most home aquarium systems.

Second only to the giant Mekong catfish (Pangasianodon gigas) in terms of size and weight, the Paroon Shark is no doubt one of the largest freshwater fish species in the world.

Like the Iridescent Shark, the Paroon Shark is a pelagic species that inhabits the main river channels and larger tributaries of it’s range.   It is a migratory species that travels upstream during the late spring and summer months to spawn.

Juvenile Paroon Shark (Pangasius sanitwongsei)

They are a peaceful, active, skittish species that as juveniles prefer living in groups.   When confined, they are easily startled and tend to jump out of their tank when spooked.

Paroon Sharks are definitely not recommended for home aquariums.   If you should inadvertently purchase one as a juvenile Iridescent Shark, be prepared to continuously upgrade tank size until you must transfer it ito a pond or donate it to a public aquarium.

As juveniles, Paroon Sharks require the same husbandry as Iridescent Sharks, but they will quickly outgrow their surroundings.

Because of the size of sexually mature fish and the fact that they are a migratory species, breeding Paroon Sharks in an aquarium environment is not feasible.   Despite the fact that they are bred commercially in far Eastern fish farms as a food source, their spawning conditions are virtually impossible to replicate in an aquarium of any size.   It is believed that the juveniles we occasionally see for sale in the hobby are also supplied by these farms.

Even though they rarely reach their maximum size of over 10 feet in captivity, Paroon Sharks (Pangasius sanitwongsei) are still easily capable of growing several feet long.   The myth that fish only grow large enough to match the size of their environment is just that, a myth.    This is why we do not consider them an aquarium species.

There is good reason you never hear of any tropical fish keeping enthusiast keeping a group of adult Paroon Sharks.

Paroon Shark (Pangasius sanitwongsei)

Minimum Tank Size: 1,000 gal.
Care Level: Difficult
Temperament: Peaceful
Aquarium Hardiness: Hardy
Water Conditions: 72-81°F, 5-8 °d, pH 6.5 – 7.5
Max. Size: 10 feet
Color Form: Silver Black, White
Diet: Omnivore
Compatibility: Not compatible
Origin: Southeast Asia
Family: Pangasiidae
Lifespan: 20 years or more
Aquarist Experience Level: Advanced

Adult Iridescent Shark (Pangasius hypophthalmus)

The Iridescent Shark (Pangasius hypophthalmus) known to tropical fish keeping enthusiasts as the Mystic Shark, Sutchi Catfish, Pangasius Cat, ID Shark, or Striped Catfish is found in large rivers in the Mekong, Maeklong, and Chao Phraya river basins of Southeast Asia.

The Iridescent Shark (Pangasius hypophthalmus) is a migratory species (both a spawning and a trophic) that brings the fish into the floodplain areas of Cambodia and Viet Nam.

As the waters in the Mekong Delta flood from May to July, they leave the main river and move upstream to spawn.   As the waters recede from September thru December, they return to their mainstreams.   The downstream migration in Cambodia and farther south in Viet Nam takes palce from May to August

From March to August, the presence of eggs in females from Stung Treng to Kandal confirms the downstream migration as both a spawning and a trophic migration.   They are so abundant in the lower Mekong in Cambodia and Viet Nam that juveniles are collected for rearing in floating fish cages by locals in the rice fields and floodplain.

Iridescent Shark (Pangasius hypophthalmus)

Because of the glittery silver coloration as juveniles, Iridescent Sharks (Pangasius hypophthalmus) are commonly sold to tropical fish keeping enthusiasts in the aquarium trade, however, it is a large catfish species that quickly outgrows it’s surroundings.    In the west, adult Iridescent Sharks are sold as a food fish called Swai in the USA.

Juvenile Iridescent Sharks (Pangasius hypophthalmus) have a brilliant glittery silver body color with two dark lateral stripes along the sides and a white belly.   Their silver gray fins are lined dark black.   As they grow, the stripes disappear and the body color changes into a dark gray with a white belly.   Juvenile males have darker stripes and are more slender than females.

An albino variant is also available to tropical fish keeping enthusiasts.

Albino Iridescent Shark (Pangasius hypophthalmus)

The Iridescent Shark (Pangasius hypophthalmus) should not be confused with it’s larger cousin Pangasius sanitwongsei commonly called the Paroon Shark, Giant Pangasius, Chao Phraya Giant Catfish, Pla Tepa, Emperor ID Shark, Hi-Fin Shark, or Hi-Fin Bull Shark.

Pangasius sanitwongsei grow to almost 10 feet in length and have pointed, more elongated dorsal and caudal fins. Pangasius hypopthalmus max out at a little over 4 feet in length and have rounded, more blunt dorsal and caudal fins.

Adult Iridescent Shark (Pangasius hypophthalmus)

Iridescent Sharks are an active, peaceful but skittishly nervous species that prefers to live in groups, especially as juveniles.   They are easily startled and will jump out of the water when spooked.

Although not recommended for home aquariums, juvenile Iridescent Sharks should be housed in groups of 5 or more individuals in at least a 350 gallon aquarium with a fine gravel or sand substrate, a few smooth river rocks, and a piece or two of driftwood.   They do not require a lot of water movement but need a secure lid, dim lighting, and an extremely efficient filtration system.   Regular water changes are also required to maintain water quality.

As juveniles they can be housed with a variety of species in a community environment, but as they grow, they should not be kept with smaller fish that they could fit into their mouths.   Suitable tank mates include other iridescent sharks, catfish, Plecostomus, silver dollars, cichlids, and fire eels.

Pangasius hypophthalmus are commercially farmed in large ponds and not commonly bred in an aquarium environment.

In their natural environment, Iridescent Sharks are omnivores that feed on worms, crustaceans, insects, fish, plants, benthic algae, and other organic matter.   In addition to a high quality omnivore flake food, juveniles in an aquarium environment need more meat in their diet such as live, frozen, or freeze dried bloodworms, mysis shrimp, shrimp, brine shrimp, feeder fish, crickets, earthworms, etc.

As they grow into adulthood, they lose their teeth and require a more vegetarian diet of algae flakes, peas, etc. in addition to their juvenile diet of live food.

Iridescent Shark (Pangasius hypophthalmus) are commonly sold and are readily available as juveniles at reasonable prices to tropical fish keeping enthusiasts online and from local fish shops.

Iridescent Shark (Pangasius hypophthalmus)

Minimum Tank Size: 350 gallons
Care Level: Difficult
Temperament: Peaceful
Aquarium Hardiness: Hardy
Water Conditions: 72-79°F, 2-29 °d, pH 6.4 – 7.5
Max. Size: 4 feet
Color Form: Silver Black, White
Diet: Omnivore
Compatibility: Shoaling, Community
Origin: Southeast Asia
Family: Pangasiidae
Lifespan: 8-20 years
Aquarist Experience Level: Advanced

Christmas Fulu (Xystichromis phytophagus)

The Christmas Fulu (Xystichromis phytophagus) is a beautiful endangered species that is already considered extinct in Lake Victoria however, it is relatively common in Lake Kanyabooli, in the Kenyan Yala Swamp of Africa.

In their natural habitat, Christmas Fulu are polygamous maternal mouth brooders that feed primarily on algae and vegetable matter.   Because they are already extinct in Lake Victoria and considered an endangered species in Lake Kanyabooli, the main source of Xystichromis phytophagus for tropical fish keeping enthusiasts is from captive bred specimens.

Christmas Fulu (Xystichromis phytophagus)

Male Christmas Fulu are colored a bright red and green with blue in the facial area and on the dorsal fin.    Females on the other hand are a drab gold color with a yellow tinge on the fins.   Males are larger and much more brightly colored than the smaller, more drably colored females.

The male’s spectacularly bright red and green colors are most prominently displayed during the breeding season, which is where the common name is derived from.

Christmas Fulu are best housed in at least a 40 gallon aquarium with a sand and gravel substrate with several stacked rocks situated into cave like hiding places.   Although plants are not necessary in this typical rocky Victorian type of setup, Christmas Fulu appreciate a piece or two of African Driftwood in their tank.

Even though Christmas Fulu are small cichlids, the males are aggressive to others of their own species, particularly during breeding.   When housing two males with a harem of 6 to 8 or more females, a tank size of at least 80 gallon capacity is highly recommended.

When kept in a community environment, they are best housed with other Lake Victorian cichlids of the same size.

A wet/dry trickle filter or canister type filtration system along with a small power head and regular water changes is recommended to maintain the necessary water quality for this species.

Xystichromis phytophagus are polygamous maternal mouth brooders that are relatively easy to breed in an aquarium environment, provided that male aggression is kept in check.

When a group of Christmas Fulu are kept together in a large aquarium, a single male will begin to establish dominance in the tank.   This is shown by the male when his breeding colors are displayed and become more pronounced as he chases other males and females that are not ready to breed out of his established territory.

When ready to breed, the dominant male will dig a pit in the substrate and actively court any ripe females in the tank.   The pair will mate in the depression and like other Haps, the female is in charge of taking care of the offspring.    Approximately 15 days after mating the females will release their fry.

The relatively large fry can be fed very small foods such a baby brine shrimp, finely crushed flake food, or Hikari First Bites.

In the wild, Christmas Fulu are primarily vegetarians that feed on algae and other vegetable matter.   In an aquarium environment, they do well on an omnivorous diet of spirulina based flakes, an appropriately size pellet, fresh spinach, romaine lettuce, and fresh, frozen, or freeze dried brine shrimp fed on an occasional basis as a “treat”.

Because of their endangered status, Christmas Fulu (Xystichromis phytophagus) are not common in the aquarium trade to tropical fish keeping enthusiasts but they are available from breeders through on line cichlid forums and specialty fish shops, and are reasonably priced.

Christmas Fulu (Xystichromis phytophagus)

Minimum Tank Size: 40 gallons
Care Level: Mildly Difficult
Temperament: Mildly Aggressive
Aquarium Hardiness: Hardy
Water Conditions: 77-90°F, dH 6-10 °d, pH 7.5-8.2
Max. Size: Males 4.25″ Females 3.6″
Color Form: Red, Green, Yellow
Diet: Herbivore
Compatibility: Single species or Victoria community
Origin: Lake Victoria, Africa
Family: Cichlidae
Lifespan: 4-10 years
Aquarist Experience Level: Advanced

Nitrogen Cycle

The most common mistake that many beginning tropical fish keeping enthusiasts make is to stock a new tank with as many fish as possible without first establishing a healthy, stable, ecosystem in the aquarium. This is done through a natural process called the Nitrogen cycle.

Nitrogen Cycle:

All fish release toxic wastes that in an enclosed environment will eventually contaminate the water in the aquarium. Uneaten food and fish waste in an enclosed system will break down and release toxic ammonia into the tank water.  In a river, lake, or stream, the amount of ammonia created by the fish is negligible but in an aquarium, it can quickly become lethal.

The Nitrogen cycle is a natural two step process that establishes colonies of beneficial nitrifying bacteria (Nitrosomonas) in the aquarium that metabolize toxic compounds and renders them harmless to fish.

The beneficial nitrifying bacteria once established in the aquarium will convert toxic ammonia into Nitrites, which are less harmful to fish.    Although Nitrites are not as harmful to the fish as ammonia, they are still toxic.

After a sufficient number of Nitrites appear in the tank, a different type of bacteria , (Nitrobacter)  will begin to develop that will convert the Nitrites into Nitrates which are generally safe for most species of fish.

Excessive Nitrate buildups can also cause problems in an aquarium but are easily controlled with regular tank water changes.   Floating and submerged plants use Nitrates as fertilizer and are used to control buildups.

The entire Nitrogen cycle process can usually be accomplished within a month, but can take as long as two months to complete.

An aquarium is considered completely cycled when it contains zero traces of ammonia or Nitrites; and a minimal amount of Nitrates.

Speeding Up The Nitrogen Cycle:

Because most tropical fish keeping enthusiasts are impatient and want a beautiful tankful of fish as soon as possible, they naturally want to know if the Nitrogen cycle process can be accelerated. The answer is YES. There are several ways to safely speed up the Nitrogen Cycle process.

The safest way to accelerate the growth of beneficial bacteria and speed up the Nitrogen cycle process in a new aquarium setup is to add water, gravel, and aged filter media from an aged, already established aquarium.

Transferring some gravel and/or up to 100% of water from an established aquarium will significantly reduce the amount of time it takes to cycle a new system.

Adding “seeded” filter media from an established tank will dramatically decrease the amount of time it takes to complete the Nitrogen cycle process from several weeks to only a few days.

When using the “seeding” method, it is important that only HEALTHY established tanks are used for the transfer of beneficial bacteria. There is always the possibility of introducing unwanted microorganisms, parasites, and even disease into a new system when water from a “sick” or previously treated tank is used.

Aquarium starters of live beneficial bacteria are sold in most pet shops as a way to “jump start” and reduce the time it takes to complete the Nitrogen cycle process. Live bacteria help boost the biological filter in new systems, destroy sludge buildup in the gravel bed, and help to keep plants and aquarium glass clean.

The effectiveness of using this method depends entirely on the freshness, quality, and amount of live bacteria in the bottle. Some tropical fish keeping enthusiasts swear by this method, while others prefer the natural cycling method.

API StressZyme, API Quick Start, Fluval Biological Enhancer, and Aqueon Pure Bacteria supplement are a few products that are available.

We have found from many years of experience that allowing the nitrogen cycle to take place naturally results in a more stable aquarium. Using beneficial bacteria to “quick start” the Nitrogen cycle is effective but can lead to an overly imbalanced aquarium.

Fishless cycling:

Instead of introducing live fish into a new aquarium setup and waiting for them to create ammonia in the tank; some tropical fish keeping enthusiasts choose to cycle their new systems using ammonia chloride or ammonium hydroxide.   The idea is to mitigate stress and the potential loss of fish during the cycling process.

Although this method results in a very stable colony of beneficial bacteria, it requires a lot of patience and water testing.

To cycle a new tank without using fish, you will need a source for ammonia, a water testing kit, de-chlorinator, a heater, and a filter that you will be using in the new tank.

First fill the tank with de-chlorinated water and set the water temperature to about 85 degrees F.

Next, slowly add ammonia chloride or ammonium hydroxide a few drops at a time until the the ammonia level test reaches 3ppm to 4ppm. Add only 2 or 3 drops at a time over periods of a half hour or so to allow adequate dilution. Do NOT use ammonia products for home use that may have other chemical additives. The other chemicals are often deadly to fish.

Make daily water tests until the ammonia levels in the tank drop down to around 0.5ppm – 1ppm; then add more ammonia to bring levels back up to 3ppm to 4ppm. Continue doing this daily until the nitrite levels start going up. This should take only a few days.

Continue daily testing for ammonia and nitrites.   After a few weeks the nitrite levels will begin to drop. When the ammonia and nitrite levels both show 0 ppm, the nitrate levels should be going through the roof. When the Nitrate test readings get up to 30 ppm, make a 70 to 80% water change to bring them down. At this point, the beneficial bacteria should already “seeded” into the aquarium filter, aquarium gravel, and decor.

Next, add a final dose of ammonia to bring the test level up to around 4 ppm and wait 24 hours before making another test. The readings should then test 0 for both ammonia and nitrites.

At this point the tank is fully cycled and fish can be slowly added to the system. Be sure to continue testing after new fish are introduced to ensure that no sudden spikes occur.

Cycling with fish:

Most tropical fish keeping enthusiasts use hardy fish like Zebra Danios to cycle their aquariums. This method requires constant water changes and daily testing of ammonia, nitrite, nitrate and pH levels.

First fill the tank with de-chlorinated water and make sure to use both a mechanical and biological filter.    These hold the largest amount of beneficial bacteria.

Start the Nitrification process by adding one or two hardy fish per 10 gallons of water into the aquarium until the Nitrogen cycle is completed. The fish waste, uneaten food, and nu-noticed dead corpses will create the ammonia necessary to begin the Nitrogen cycle.   Additional fish can be gradually added when the tank is fully cycled.

Test the water daily for ammonia. Ideally, the ammonia levels should be maintained under .25 ppm. If you see that the ammonia levels go past .5 ppm, perform a 50% water change with de-chlorinated water.   Chlorinated tap water will kill the beneficial bacteria you are trying to cultivate in the tank.

When the ammonia level in the aquarium go down, start testing for nitrites and conduct water changes when necessary to keep the levels under .25 ppm.

When the ammonia and nitrite readings reach 0, the nitrogen cycle has completed and new fish can be gradually added to the aquarium. Don’t add too many fish at one time or ammonia levels will begin to spike.

After adding any new fish, it’s a good idea to test the water for a few weeks to ensure that there are no sudden ammonia spikes.

Fruit Flies (Drosophila melanogaster) mating

Fruit Flies (Drosophila melanogaster) or Vinegar Flies are often bred by tropical fish keeping enthusiasts to feed topwater species like African Butterfly Fish, Archer Fish, Hatdhetfish, Killifish, etc.

Although Fruit Flies are sold in specialty pet shops and online for feeding young praying mantis, small spiders, frogs, fish, and a variety of other small insects, you can breed them yourself and save a good bit of money.

Flightless Fruit Flies like Drosophila hydei or Drosophila melanogaster have a mutation that makes their wings underdeveloped.   Even though they still have wings, they are unable to fly.

Fruit Flies (Drosophila hydei)

Fruit Flies (Drosophila melanogaster)

The main difference between the two species is size. Drosophila melanogaster are small at about 1/16th of an inch long, whereas Drosophila hydei are meatier at about 1/8th of an inch long.

Breeding either species of Fruit Flies is easy and requires items you can find in your local supermarket.

You will need the following:

• An initial batch of Drosophila melanogaster or Drosophila hydei Fruit Flies.
• Seven or eight 10 to 20 oz. plastic containers with lids.
• Some tissue paper
• Mashed potato mix (without seasonings)
• Beer (any brand)
• White vinegar
• Dried yeast
• Some wood, plastic, or paper strips for the flies to sit upon 
  

  Fruit Fly Culture Container

First, prepare the medium for feeding the Fruit Flies:

Mix about 17 to 18 oz. of beer with 7 oz. of mashed potato mix until smooth and add about 3.5 oz of white vinegar.   The resulting mix should be smooth without being too watery.  If it is too dry, add a small amount of water; if too wet, add some more mashed potato mix.   When you’re happy with the consistency, add a tsp of dry yeast and stir well.

Next, prepare the breeding containers.

• Cut a hole in each of the container lids about the size of a half dollar.
• Take a piece of tissue paper and place it in between the lid and the container. The paper allows air into the container without letting the fruit flies escape.
• Add equal portions of the Fruit Fly medium to each of the containers. You don’t need to fill the containers up, but add just enough to cover the bottom.
• Add the wood or plastic strips into the containers on top of the medium. It should not sink into the medium. It needs to stay on top for the flies to perch on so they don’t drown.

Next, add the Fruit Flies.

Gently, shake or tap 20 to 30 Fruit Flies into each container and close the tissue paper fitted lid. Firmly tap the container so the fruit flies fall to the bottom, and set the containers in a 70° to 86° F. room for the Fruit Flies to develop.

The Fruit Flies take longer to develop at lower temperatures and should not be kept below 59 ° F.

melanogaster pupae

The initial stock of Fruit Flies will lay eggs inside the medium and after a few days, tiny maggots will appear moving around inside the medium.

In about two weeks or so, when you see the orange/brown fly pupae sticking onto the side of the container, the next generation of Fruit Flies will be only a few days away.

The smaller fruit flies (Drosophila melanogaster) develop faster than the larger ones (Drosophila hydei).

After a couple of weeks, just about when the maggots reach adulthood, the medium in the containers will be dried up.

If you haven’t fed all the Fruit Flies to your fish or praying mantis, you can still keep them alive by adding a small piece of fruit or a little more culture medium to the container.

NOTE:

Both species of flightless fruit flies are capable of regenerating their ability to fly.    Flightlessness is a recessive gene that both parents have to posses.   If a wild fruit fly that can fly introduces its DNA into the gene pool, your flightless  fruit flies will begin to “magically” fly again.   So if you don’t want to deal with a bunch of annoying little fruit flies escaping and flying all over your house, keep your cultures safe from foreign fly DNA.

Fruit Flies are a great high protein live food for a variety of tropical fish species and are readily available from a variety of sources if you don’t care to breed them yourself.

Koi_Feeding Frenzy

Koi (Cyprinus rubrofuscu) known to tropical fish keeping enthusiasts as Jinli, Nishikigoi, or Brocaded carp are brightly colored variants of the common Amur carp, which is widespread in East Asia from the Amur to the Red River drainages.

Koi (Cyprinus rubrofuscu) are native to China, Laos, and Vietnam, and were once considered a subspecies of the common European carp (Cyprinus carpio haematopterus).

Although they are different species, Koi and some Goldfish (Carassius auratus) are often misidentified by tropical fish keeping enthusiasts.   Koi and Goldfish can interbreed but because they were developed from different carp species, their offspring are sterile.

Some varieties of goldfish like Comets, Shubunkins, and common Goldfish have similar body types as juveniles; but Koi have prominent barbels on their lip, which goldfish lack.  Goldfish are also much smaller than koi, have a greater variety of fin and tail configurations, and body shapes.  Koi can grow quite large (over 3 feet in length), while goldfish max out at about 2 feet.

History:

Carp are a highly adaptable cold water species that can survive in many climates and water conditions.   Over the years domesticated carp, Koi, were propagated in many locations including China and Japan.

Prussian Carp (CarassiusGiebelio)

Carp were first selectively bred for their color in China over a thousand years ago by breeding Prussian carp (Carassius gibelio) which led to the development of various species of goldfish (Carassius auratus).

By the Song dynasty (960–1279); orange, red and white, yellow, and pure white, colors had been developed.

Amur carp (Cyprinus rubrofuscus) were aquacultured as a food fish in China during the fourth (Jin Dynasty) and fifth century with different color varieties noted.

Cyprinus rubrofuscus were first bred for their color variants in the town of Ojiya, Japan during the 1820s.    Until 1914 when Niigata koi were shown at an exposition in Tokyo, Japan, nobody was aware that color variations even existed.

Since then, the interest in Koi by the tropical fish keeping community has spread throughout the world, and from that handful of Koi, all the other Nishikigoi varieties except the Ogon, were developed.

Koi are now distinguished by their colors, patterns, fins, and scales.   The color varieties, basically black, white, red, yellow, blue, and cream, are virtually limitless.  Breeders have categorized Koi according to combinations of color, patterns, scales, fins, and quality.

Gosanke is made up of the Kohaku,Taisho Sanshoku, and Showa Sanshoku varieties.

In the 1980s, a hybrid of Ogon Koi and wild European carp developed a “Ghost Koi” that had metallic scales.   Another hybrid of Koi with Asian carp in the 1980s developed into the butterfly Koi, longfin Koi, or dragon carp.

Dragon Koi

Major Koi Varities:

• Kōhaku – isa white bodied koi with large red markings on the top.   Kōhaku means “red and white”.
• Taishō Sanshoku (or Taishō Sanke) – is similar to the kohaku, except for the addition of small black markings called sumi.
• Shōwa Sanshoku (or Showa Sanke) – is a black koi with red and white markings.
• Tanchō – is any Koi with a solitary red patch on its head.   The fish may be a Tanchō Shōwa, Tanchō Sanke, or even Tanchō Goshiki.  It is named after the Japanese red crowned crane (Grus japonensis).
• Chagoi – is a tea colored Koi.   This koi can range in color from a pale olive drab green or brown, to a copper or bronze, to more subdued shades of orange.
• Asagi – This Koi is light blue above and usually red below.   It can be a pale yellow or cream, generally below the lateral line and on the cheeks.
• Utsurimono – is a black koi with white, red, or yellow markings, in a zebra color pattern.   The black and yellow form is called Ki Utsuri. The red and white form is called Hi Utsuri.   There is also a piebald color morph called Shiro Utsuri.
• Bekko – is a white, red, or yellow skinned Koi with black markings.   The Japanese name means “tortoise shell”.   The white, red, and yellow varieties are called Shiro Bekko, Aka Bekko, and Ki Bekko, respectively.
• Goshiki – is a dark koi with red (Kōhaku style) hi pattern.  It is similar to an Asagi, with little or no hi below the lateral line and a Kōhaku Hi pattern over reticulated fishnet patterned scales.   The base color can range from almost black to a very pale, sky blue.
• Shūsui – Means “autumn green”.   It was bred in 1910 by crossing a Japanese Asagi with a German mirror carp.   Except for a single line of large mirror scales that extend dorsally from head to tail, the fish has no scales.   The most common type of Shūsui has a pale, sky-blue/gray color above the lateral line and red or orange (and very rarely bright yellow) below the lateral line and on the cheeks.
• Kinginrin – Often abbreviated to Ginrin, is a koi with glittering, metallic scales.  Their sparkling, glittering scales contrast to the smooth, even, metallic skin and scales seen in the Ogon varieties.
• Kawarimono – is a catch all category for Koi that cannot be put into one of the other categories.
• Ōgon – is a single colored metallic Koi.   Gold, platinum, and orange are the most common colors and cream colored specimens are considered rare.   The variety was created by Sawata Aoki in 1946 from wild carp he caught 25 years earlier.
• Kumonryū – is a black doitsu-scaled fish with curling white markings.
• Ochiba – is a light blue gray Koi with a copper, bronze, or yellow pattern.  The Japanese name means “fallen leaves”.
• Koromo – is a white bodied fish with a Kohaku-style pattern, and blue or black edged scales only over the hi pattern.   The most common Koromo is the Ai Goromo, which is colored like a Kohaku, except that each of the scales within the red patches has blue or black edging.
  The less common Budo-Goromo, has a darker burgundy hi overlay that gives it the appearance of bunches of grapes.
  The rarely seen Tsumi-Goromois similar to Budo-Goromo, but the hi pattern is such a dark burgundy that it appears almost black.
• Hikari-moyomono – Is a Koi with colored markings over a metallic base; or in two metallic colors.
• Kikokuryū – is a metallic skinned version of the Kumonryu.
• Kin-Kikokuryū – is a metallic skinned version of the Kumonryu with a Kohaku-style hi pattern. At least six different genetic sub-varieties of this general variety are known.
• Ghost Koi – is a hybrid of Ogon and wild carp with metallic scales.
• Butterfly Koi – is a long flowing finned hybrid between Koi and Asian carp. The colors depend on the koi stock used to cross.
• Doitsu-goi – were created by crossbreeding numerous different established Koi varieties with “scaleless” German carp; usually fish with a single line of scales along both sides of the dorsal fin.

There are four main types of Doitsu scale patterns:

• The most common type, Kawi Goi, has a row of scales along both sides of the dorsal fin that starts at the front and ends at the end of the dorsal.
• The second type has a row of scales that starts where the head meets the shoulder and runs along both sides of the entire length of the fish.
• The third type, Kagomi Goi, is the same as the second, but has a line of often quite large scales running along the lateral line along the side of the fish. This type is commonly called “Mirror Koi”.
• The fourth, Yoroi Goi, and rarest type is the “Armor Koi”.  It is almost completely covered with large scales that resemble armor plate.  It is also called Kagami-goi or mirror carp.

Koi are a hardy, peaceful, easy to maintain cold water species that are normally kept in outdoor ponds. They can tolerate swings in temperature and water quality but do not do well in areas that have extended winter temperatures.   Below 50 °F their immune systems are very weak.   Although they can tolerate less than perfect water quality, Koi do best with a good pond filtration system and skimmer to keep the water as pristine as possible.

Koi ponds in warmer climates should have a minimum depth of at least 3 feet.   In colder climates, ponds should be at a minimum, at least 5 feet deep.

Because of their bright colors, Koi enclosures should be covered to protect them from predators, especially as juveniles.   Many breeders cover their ponds with netting, wires, overhangs, etc. to prevent kingfishers, herons, raccoons, foxes, cats, etc. from feasting on their prized Koi.    An uncovered pond with juvenile yellow or white skinned Koi is a dinner bell for any kingfisher or heron in the area.

Koi are easy to breed and will to spawn on their own in a large pond during the spring and summer.   Females produce huge numbers of eggs that are fertilized by one or more males.

When ready to breed, the males will start following the female around the pond and bump or nudge her until she releases her eggs.     After her sticky eggs are fertilized by the males, they sink to the bottom and stick to the substrate until they hatch.    If the eggs can survive the first 4 to 7 days, they fry will hatch out and begin life on their own.  Females can produce several spawns, but most of the fry are eaten by other fish in the pond.

Professional Koi breeders are meticulous about selecting breeding parents based on the characteristics they want to achieve, but the fry will still exhibit a wide range of colors and quality.

From the thousands of offspring produced in a single spawning, relatively few result in show quality fish.  Based on the breeder’s expert eye, unacceptable Koi offspring are culled during various stages of development.   The culled fry are usually either destroyed or used as feeder fish.

Older culls within the first year of growth are often sold as lower grade, pond quality Koi which is what most tropical fish keeping enthusiasts purchase from local fish shops.

Koi are omnivores that eat a wide variety of foods, including worms, crustaceans, corn, peas, lettuce, and even watermelon.    Although they are bottom feeders, most nutritionally balanced commercially prepared Koi foods are designed to float on the surface so the fish can be better observed.    A few food manufactures produce combinations of mixed sinking and floating pellet food.

Hand Feeding Koi

Over time, Koi will learn to recognize the persons feeding them and will gather around them during feeding.   They can even be trained to take food from you hand.

Do not feed Koi during the winter months.   Their digestive systems slow down to a halt and they eat very little, if any food.   Stop feeding when water temperatures drop below 50 °F.

In smaller ponds, make sure that proper oxygenation and pH stabilization occurs during temperature drops in the winter months.   A good fountain pump in the center of a pond or a commercial grade bubble aerator will  provide all the oxygenation needed.

When spring returns, the appetites of the Koi will also return and normal feedings can resume.

Koi can live to 50 years and longer.  If you pamper and take care of your Koi, they can easily outlive you.   Well cared for Koi have been reported to live over 200 years.

A famous Koi named “Hanako” owned by several people lived to be 226 years old, according to the growth rings on it’s scales.

Koi are available to tropical fish keeping enthusiasts from breeders, importers, wholesalers, collectors, online, and from almost every pet shop in the world.   Prices range from just a few dollars, to literally hundreds of thousands of dollars for unique show quality specimens.

Harvesting Koi

Minimum Pond Size: 300 gallons
Care Level: Easy
Temperament: Peaceful
Aquarium Hardiness: Hardy
Water Conditions: 59-77° F, KH 2-12, pH 6.8-7.2
Max. Size: 40″
Color Form: Orange, Red, White, Black, Blue, Green
Diet: Omnivore
Compatibility:  Ponds or large tanks
Origin: China
Family: Cyprinidae
Lifespan: Up to 200 years
Aquarist Experience Level:  Beginner

Taeniolethrinops Praeorbitalis

Taeniolethrinops praeorbitalis is a peaceful, solitary cichlid endemic to Lake Malawi that is found over sandy substrates in relatively shallow depths of up to 160 feet.

Taeniolethrinops praeorbitalis can be distinguished from it’s close relative Taeniolethrinops laticeps, by it’s longer snout and the absence of an oblique dark diagonal line that crosses the upper portion of the body in adults.

Taeniolethrinops praeorbitalis

Juvenile Taeniolethrinops praeorbitalis have a bright yellow head which becomes less vivid in adult specimens.   Adult males have a blue background coloring especially during breeding, while females remain a drab silver gray color.

Although Taeniolethrinops praeorbitalis are found throughout Lake Malawi, most of the specimens collected for tropical fish keeping enthusiasts are from Senga Bay.

Taeniolethrinops praeorbitalis are a peaceful species that can be housed with other peaceful, similarly sized cichlids such as cyrtocara, copadichromis, protomelas, etc.

Taeniolethrinops praeorbitalis are best housed in an aquarium of at least 150 gallon capacity with a sandy or fine gravel substrate and some large stones strategically formed into hiding places.    Aquatic plants are not necessary and would undoubtedly be dislodged by their digging activities.   They require good filtration, regular water changes, and are good candidates for wet/dry, multiple bio-wheel, or canister filtration systems.

Taeniolethrinops praeorbitalis are maternal mouth brooders that have been farm raised for the tropical fish keeping community.   They have been bred in an aquarium environment by hobbyists using the classic methods for oral incubators.

During breeding, to attract pregnant females, the males construct large craters in the sand that often exceed three feet in diameter.   The males stay in the depression until a pregnant female is attracted and breeding takes place.   The females will incubate the eggs for about three weeks and should have several rocky hiding places available during this time to seclude herself and minimize stress from other tank mates.

In their natural environment in Lake Malawi, Taeniolethrinops praeorbitalis roam the shorelines digging deep into the sandy substrate with their long snouts looking for insect larvae, small crustaceans, and invertebrates.   They are often shadowed by C. moorii and P. annectens that take advantage of Taeniolethrinops praeorbitalis’s digging to feed on the exposed leftovers.

In an aquarium environment, they can be fed live, frozen, and freeze dried mysis shrimp, shrimp, prawns, krill, along with a quality sinking carnivore pellet.

Although Taeniolethrinops praeorbitalis are considered common, they are not readily available.  They can be purchased from specialty fish shops or online from a variety of sources, including Cichlid forums, auctions sites, importers, retailers, wholesalers and collectors at a variety of sizes.

Taeniolethrinops praeorbitalis

Minimum Tank Size: 180 gallons
Care Level: Mildly Difficult
Temperament: Peaceful
Aquarium Hardiness: Hardy
Water Conditions: 71.0 to 82.0° F, dH 6-10°dGH, pH 7.5-8.6
Max. Size: 13.5″
Color Form: Yellow, Blue, Green
Diet: Carnivore
Compatibility: Single species or peaceful Malawi
Origin: Lake Malawi
Family: Cichlidae
Lifespan: 8-10 years
Aquarist Experience Level: Advanced

Green Neon Tetra (Paracheirodon simulans)

Green Neon Tetra (Paracheirodon simulans) also known to tropical fish keeping enthusiasts as False Neon Tetras or Blue Neon Tetras are found in the border areas of the mid to upper Rio Negro drainage in Brazil upstream from the mouth of the Rio Branco, and between the mouth of the Rio Meta and San Fernando de Atabapo in the Rio Orinoco river system in the border region between Venezuela and Columbia.

The Green Neon Tetra (Paracheirodon simulans) exclusively inhabits blackwater environments like the Rio Jufaris, a tributary located just upstream of the Rio Negro in the Amazonas state of Brazil.   Their range coincides with that of the Cardinal Tetra (Paracheirodon axelrodi) but the two species are not found together.

Green Neon Tetra (Paracheirodon simulans)

The Green Neon Tetra (Paracheirodon simulans) has a brilliant blue green lateral stripe on the body that runs to the base of the caudal fin.

It differs from Neon and Cardinal Tetras by it’s smaller size, the much greener lateral stripe that covers most of the head and eye that extends to the base of the tail, and the less pronounced red patch.

The flanks are duller and appear to have less red pigmentation than either Paracheirodon innesi and Paracheirodon axelrodi.   Males are smaller and thinner than sexually mature females which are larger and have noticeably more rounded bodies.

Paracheirodon simulans live in warm, slow to moderately flowing tannin stained water over sandy substrates covered with leaf litter, fallen branches, and bogwood. The thick, overhanging bank and submerged vegetation provides cover and the dimly lit conditions found only in the upper, terra firme, reaches of tributary drainages.

These waters are typically acidic, stained a brown tea color by decomposing organic matter, and have a negligible carbonate hardness.

Although Paracheirodon sumulans are a peaceful shoaling species, they are not good candidates for a community tank.   Their small size and specialized blackwater requirements make them better suited for a single species setup or with docile characids, smaller callichthyids, and loricariids.

Green Neon Tetras are best housed in groups of 8 to 12 individuals in a densely planted tank of at least 10 gallon capacity with a sand or very fine gravel substrate and some driftwood roots and branches.   Dried leaf litter, Alder cones, Beech, or Indian Almond leaves should be added to provide cover and promote the growth of beneficial microbe colonies as decomposition occurs. The microbes also serve as a valuable food source for the fry.

Because Green Neon Tetras do best under low light conditions; floating plants like Ceratopteris spp. and plants that thrive in dimly lit conditions like Microsorum, Taxiphyllum, or Cryptocoryne spp. should be added to the tank to provide cover and shade.

Paracheirodon sumulans are extremely sensitive to fluctuations and deterioration of water quality and should only be added to mature aquariums.

Paracheirodon simulans have not be bred in an aquarium environment.

In their natural habitat, Green Neon Tetras feed on algae, insects, small inverts, and crustaceans.   In an aquarium environment they do well on a varied menu of quality flake food combined with live, frozen, or freeze dried bloodworms, Daphnia, mosquito larvae, Moina, etc.

True Green Neon Tetras (Paracheirodon simulans) are wild caught specimens. They have not been bred on a commercial basis which makes them less common and more expensive than their congeners.   Tropical fish keeping enthusiasts can occasionally purchase them from specialty fish shops, online from importers and auctions sites, or on tropical fish forums.

Green Neon Tetra (Paracheirodon simulans)

Minimum Tank Size: 10 gallons
Care Level: Easy
Temperament: Peaceful
Aquarium Hardiness: Hardy when acclimated
Water Conditions: 77-95° F, H 18-143, pH 3.0-6.5
Max. Size: .6 – .98″
Color: Iridescent Green, Red
Diet: Omnivore
Compatibility: Peaceful
Origin: Brazil
Family: Characidae
Lifespan: 5 – 8years
Aquarist Experience Level: Advanced

Head and Tail Light Tetra (Hemigrammus ocellifer)

The Head and Tail Light Tetra (Hemigrammus ocellifer) known to tropical fish keeping enthusiasts as the Beacon Fish originates in South America in the Amazon and Orinoco River basins, parts of Guyana, Suriname, French Guiana, Peru and Brazil.   Because of its popularity with tropical fish keeping enthusiasts worldwide, they are bred in huge numbers for the aquarium trade.

Head and Tail Light Tetras are a peaceful shoaling species that prefer slow moving rivers, streams, and floodplain lakes.

Head and Tail Light Tetra (Hemigrammus ocellifer)

The Head and Tail Light Tetra’s body is compressed, oval in shape, and an iridescent silver color.   The rear part of the body and fins are almost translucent. It gets its common name from the two reflective black spots surrounded by copper coloring at the base of the tail and next to the gill cover that resemble auto headlights.

A fine black line starting mid body runs to the black spot at the base of the caudal fin. The upper part of their black and yellow eye is ringed in red and looks similar to Redeye Tetras.

Adult males when viewed from above are smaller and thinner than females. Females are generally larger and more heavily bodied than males. They can be sexed by examination of the swim bladder, that is visible through the translucent skin. In males the swim bladder tapers to a point. In females, it is more rounded.

A similar but more slender species, Hemigrammus ocellifer falsus, has the taillight spot, but lacks the second spot behind the gill cover.

Head and Tail Light Tetras do best in schools of 6 or more individuals and can be housed with other peaceful tetras, barbs, danios, rasboras, and several other small to medium sized fish in a community tank environment.   Small loaches, catfish, dwarf cichlids, and dwarf gourami are also suitable tank mates but avoid large fish and slow moving, long finned species like bettas and angelfish.

The Head and Tail Light Tetra is a perfect candidate for a black water biotope setup.   They are best housed as a shoal of 10 or more of their own kind in a planted tank of at least 20 gallons with a river sand or fine gravel substrate, some driftwood branches and some dried Indian Almond, Beech, or Oak leaves to replicate their natural waters. A peat bag added to the filtration system can be substituted to simulate the weak tea colored conditions that they are found in.

Some small floating plants like duckweed, can be added to provide shady spots, diffuse overhead lighting and mimic the dimly lit conditions they prefer. Frequent water changes are recommended.

Be sure to replace the dried leaves every couple of weeks, so as not to foul the aquarium water.

Head and Tail Light Tetras are relatively easy to breed in an aquarium.

Set up a breeding tank with plenty of fine leaved plants for them to lay their eggs, dim lighting, and soft, slightly acidic water. A temperature of 80 degrees F, a pH of 6.0 to 6.5, and a gH of 1-5 will do the job.

Condition several specimens with live or frozen brine shrimp,bloodworms, daphnia, etc. for a week or two, select a ripe female and the best colored male, and place them in the breeding tank.   The female’s belly will swell with eggs when spawning is imminent and usually occurs in the morning hours.   Over the course of a day, up to 1,000 eggs will be laid on the plants.

When spawning is over, promptly remove the parents from the tank.   The eggs hatch in about 24 hours and the fry are free swimming in a couple of days.   When the egg sacs are absorbed, they can be fed Infusoria, commercially prepared powdered fry food, egg yolk, etc. until they grow large enough to accept newly hatched brine shrimp or mircoworms.   Because the eggs and fry are light sensitive in the early stages of life, keep the rearing tank in complete darkness if at all possible.

Head and Tail Light Tetras are omnivorous and in an aquarium environment will readily accept just about anything offered.   Regular meals of live, frozen or freeze dried brine shrimp, bloodworms, small insects, and Daphnia, along with a quality dried flake food or granule will keep them in the best condition.

Head and Tail Light Tetras, also known as Beacon Tetras, are common in most tropical fish shops. It is popular, hardy, inexpensive, and one of the best choices for newcomers to tropical fish keeping. Selectively bred albino specimens have become popular in recent years and are readily available.

Head and Tail Light Tetra (Hemigrammus ocellifer)

Minimum Tank Size: 20 gallons
Care Level: Moderate
Temperament: Peaceful
Aquarium Hardiness: Hardy
Water Conditions: 74 to 82 °F , dH 5-20, pH 5.5-7.5
Max. Size: 1.8″
Color Form: Silver, Black
Diet: Omnivore
Compatibility: Peaceful, keep with other small tetras
Origin: Amazon and Orinoco River basins
Family: Characidae
Lifespan: 5 years
Aquarist Experience Level: Beginner

Green Neon (Hemigrammus hyanuary)

The Green Neon (Hemigrammus hyanuary) known to tropical fish keeping enthusiasts as the January Tetra or Costello Tetra is found in the Amazon River basin in Brazil and Peru; specifically Lake Hyanuary near Manuas, Brazil.

Green Neons are an active shoaling species that are found in the black waters of slow moving rivers, river tributaries and seasonally, the floodplains of lakes.

Green Neon (Hemigrammus hyanuary)

The Green Neon has a silver to olive green body with a yellow to green iridescent stripe that extends from the snout to the base of its caudal fin. A black band below the stripe extends from the tail to mid way on the body.   It has transparent fins and a silver to orange colored patch directly above the stripe at the base of the tail.

Although they are often confused with the more common head and tail light tetra, H. ocellifer; adult Green Neon tetras have a bright green colored iris.

Adult male Hemigrammus hyanuary have a small hook on the anal fin and are a bit smaller and noticeably slimmer than females.

Green Neon tetras are perfect candidates for a blackwater biotope setup with at least 6 or more of their own kind.  They are best housed in at least a 10 gallon tank with a sandy or very fine substrate, some driftwood branches, and some dried Indian Almond, Beech, or Oak leaves to replicate their natural waters.  Submerged plants are optional.  A peat bag added to the filtration system can alternately be used to simulate the weak tea colored waters that they are found in.

Some small floating plants like duckweed, can be added to diffuse overhead lighting and mimic the dimly lit conditions they prefer.   Frequent water changes are recommended.

Be sure to replace the dried leaves every couple of weeks, so they don’t foul the aquarium water.

Green Neon tetras can be housed in a community tank environment with other small, peaceful, South American species. Suitable candidates are other species of Hemigrammus or Hyphessobrycon, pencil fish, smaller rasboras, barbs, dwarf Apistogramma or Pelvicachromis species cichlids, Corydoras, and small Loricariids.

Green Neon tetras are often bred in an aquarium environment similar to other tetra species.

Set up a small, dimly lit breeding tank with spawning mops or fine leaved plants like Java Moss to give the fish a place to deposit their eggs and a small air powered sponge filter. The water needs to be at a pH of 6.0, 4 dH, and a temperature from 79-84°F. Peat bags or Indian Almond leaves can be used but are not necessary.

Green Neons can be spawned in groups or in pairs.

Place 5 or 6 pairs of Green Neons that have been conditioned with feedings of small live foods into a breeding tank and let nature take over.   The fish will spawn in the early morning hours.

When breeding pairs, condition several fish and select the fattest egg filled female and a male that displays the best color and place them in the breeding tank during the evening.   The pair should spawn early the next morning.

Both parents will eat their eggs when given the chance and should be removed from the breeding tank as soon as the eggs are observed.   The eggs will hatch out in 24 to 36 hours and the fry becoming free swimming a 3 to 4 days later.

For the first few days, the fry should be fed infusoria until they grow large enough to accept baby brine shrimp, microworms, finely crushed flake food, etc. Because the fry are light sensitive, keep the rearing tank dark during the first few weeks of growth.

Professional breeders cover the bottom of a bare tank with a fine mesh large enough for the eggs to pass through, yet small enough so the adults cannot reach them.

In their natural habitat, Green Neons (Hemigrammus hyanuary) feed on small invertebrates.   In an aquarium environment, they are not fussy eaters and should be fed a balanced diet of dried flake food with live, frozen, or freeze dried aquatic insects, brine shrimp, daphnia, bloodworms, Tubifex, etc.

Most Green Neons (Hemigrammus hyanuary) available to tropical fish keeping enthusiasts are captive bred in Singapore Malaysia. They are occasionally available for purchase from specialty fish shops and online from a variety of sites when they are 3/4″ to 1-1/2″ in size.

When kept in alkaline conditions, Green Neons will lose their coloration.

Green Neon (Hemigrammus hyanuary)

Minimum Tank Size: 10 gallons
Care Level: Moderate
Temperament: Peaceful
Aquarium Hardiness: Hardy once acclimated
Water Conditions: 74 to 82 °F , dH 6-15, pH 6.0-7.5
Max. Size: 1.6″
Color Form: Silver, Yellow, Green
Diet: Omnivore
Compatibility: Peaceful, keep with other small tetras
Origin: Lake Hyanuary, Farm Raised in Singapore
Family: Characidae
Lifespan: 5 years
Aquarist Experience Level: Beginner

Giant Raphael Catfish (Megalodoras uranoscopus)

The Giant Raphael Catfish (Megalodoras uranoscopus) also known to tropical fish keeping enthusiasts as the Giant Talking Catfish, Mother of Snails Catfish, Megalodoras Catfish, or Ripsaw Catfish, is a native to the Amazon River Basin in Bolivia, Brazil, Colombia, Ecuador and Peru.

Giant Raphael Catfish (Megalodoras uranoscopus) have been recorded in the Amazon, Essequibo, and Tocantins river systems and grow to a length of 28 inches or more.

Giant Raphael Catfish prefer slower moving creeks, swamps, river tributaries, and areas like Lake Hyanuary, close to the rainforest city of Manaus, Brazil, They are usually found hiding among tree roots and submerged vegetation but depending on the time of year, they can also be found in temporarily flooded areas and in the main river channels.

Although Giant Raphael Catfish occasionally form small schools, they prefer living in smaller groups. In the wild they feed on Licania longipetala and Astorcaryum jauari palm fruits and are particularly fond of pulmonate snails.

Giant Raphael Catfish (Megalodoras uranoscopus)

Although Giant Raphael Catfish have an attractive color pattern that remains with age, they are rarely imported for the aquarium trade. In their native range, they are a commercially harvested as a food fish.

Megalodoras uranoscopus is known for its ability to produce sounds by locking their spiny pectoral fins into their sockets, grinding them against the inner portion of the socket and resonating their swim bladder using a muscle in the back of their skull to produce a deep clicking sound.

Because of their large size, a single Giant Raphael Catfish should be housed in an aquarium with minimum dimensions of 4′ X 8′ with a bare or sandy substrate and large pieces of driftwood or a length of large diameter PVC pipe for them to hide.   They are a shoaling diurnal species that require dim lighting and because of the copious amounts of waste they produce, a large, efficient, filtration system.   High end canister filters or wet/dry filters are a must for this species in order to maintain good water quality.

Giant Raphael Catfish are peaceful and do best when housed in groups of 4 or more specimens.  They can be maintained in a large community aquarium with like sized doradids like Pseudodoras niger, Potamotrygon, Osteoglossum spp., larger loricariids, Rays, or characids like Myleus or Metynnis spp.

Megalodoras uranoscopus are easily sexed but have not been bred in an aquarium environment.

In their natural habitat, Giant Raphael Catfish eat snails and palm fruits that drop into the water.  In an aquarium environment, they are not fussy eaters and will scavenge food from the bottom, but in order to maintain a healthy immune system, they need both meaty and plant based foods in their diet.

Commercially prepared sinking catfish pellets, earthworms, frozen bloodworms, prawns, snails, blanched vegetables, and vegetable wafer type foods will keep them healthy.

It’s best to feed them only 2 to 4 times a week and increase the amount and frequency as the fish grow.   As the fish settle into their environment they will come to the surface to accept food.

Giant Raphael Catfish (Megalodoras uranoscopus) are occasionally available from importers online and specialty tropical fish shops in the United States as juveniles. Prices vary according to demand.

Giant Raphael Catfish (Megalodoras uranoscopus)

Minimum Tank Size: 180 gallons
Care Level: Moderate
Temperament: Peaceful
Aquarium Hardiness: Hardy
Water Conditions: 70-79° F, KH 0-25, pH 5.5-7.5
Max. Size: 28″
Color Form: Brown, Black, White, Gold
Diet: Omnivore
Compatibility: Good community tank fish
Origin: Brazil, Peru, Columbia, Bolivia
Family: Doradidae
Live Span: 5 to 20 years
Aquarist Experience Level: Experienced

Gill Fluke (Dactylogyrus)

Gill Flukes (Dactylogyrus) and Skin Flukes (Gyrodactylus) are common parasitic flatworms that affect fish, frogs, and turtles.   Despite their names, both Trematoda can be found on the skin and gills of cold water and tropical fish where in small numbers do little harm to healthy fish.   In large numbers, Flukes (Trematoda) are debilitating and often the cause of secondary bacterial infections.

There are over 10,000 species of Trematoda that occur worldwide.   They range in size from about 0.2 inches to 4 inches in length and infect domestic animals, humans, mollusks, and crustaceans in addition to almost all tropical fish.   Flukes can attach themselves externally, internally (in the gut), and semi externally in the gills and mouth of fish.

The Gill Fluke (Dactylogyrus) uses hooks on it’s body to attach itself to the flesh of the fish’s gills.   As it multiplies, it reduces the ability of the fish to take in oxygen, the fish becomes listless and dies of oxygen starvation or from a bacteria infection.

Gill Flukes (Dactylogyrus) live for about a week and drop eggs which hatch out with 2 to 4 days. The larvae die without a host in about…..

PHYSICAL SYMPTOMS:

Gill Flukes and Skin Flukes are small, flat, white, worm like parasites that are difficult to spot without the aid of a microscope.

Symptoms include the following:

Gill Fluke (Dactylogyrus)

Gill Fluke (Dactylogyrus):       

Loss of appetite
Fish becomes lethargic
Irritated, discolored, sloppy looking gills
Gasping at the surface

Skin Fluke (Gyrodactylus)

Skin Fluke (Gyrodactylus):

Rubbing and flashing
Tiny red spots or yellow dusting
Sores and ulcers
Clamped fins
Changes in the slime coat

In the more advanced stage of Gyrodactylus infestations, the fish become lethargic and will spend long periods on the bottom of the tank isolating itself with it’s fins clamped close to the body.

In the advanced stage of Dactylogyrus infestations, fish will often display swollen, discolored gills, and have no appetite.    The gill covers may be clamped shut or remain wide open and the skin of the fish can be cloudy due to the excess amount of mucus being produced.

Severely infected fish will usually be gasping for air at the surface where the water has a higher concentration of oxygen, or laying at the bottom suffering from severe gill damage.

Severe infestations will kill fish directly or by secondary infections.

CAUSE:

Flukes (Trematoda) are caused by introducing infected fish or plants that carry the eggs of the parasite, or the adult parasite into a pond or aquarium.

TREATMENT:

Of the numerous Fluke treatments that are available to treat both live bearing and egg laying Trematatoda, those containing Praziquantel are the most effective.

Most Fluke treatments target the juvenile and adult stage which is satisfactory for Gyrodactylus, but for Gill Flukes (Dactylogyrus) and other egg laying Trematoda, several treatments are required over a period of several weeks to kill off the offspring of the hardy eggs.    There is no fish safe treatment that will kill fluke eggs, which is why re-treatments are necessary to completely break the life cycle.

When there are large amounts of dissolved organic matter in the pond or aquarium water, repeated treatments after 7 days are definitely required.

Most tropical fish keeping enthusiasts use Praziquantel (prazi) as a safe, effective, “go to” treatment for Skin Flukes (Gyrodactylus sp.), Gill Flukes (Dactylogyrus sp.), and tapeworms in Koi, goldfish, and tropical fish.   Although Praziquantel is primarily used to treat parasitic worm infections in humans and animals; it is also used in ponds, aquaculture, and aquariums.

Praziquantel, or prazi, is gentle on fish, safe to use with aquatic plants, and will not affect the biological filtration in your aquarium or pond.

Praziquantel is a white powder that is notoriously hard to dissolve in water, and the liquid form of prazi will often precipitate out of solution on the bottom of the container.   It is sold by a variety of sources i.e. Pet Mountain, PondRx, Drs Foster and Smith, and others.

Tropical fish keeping enthusiasts have come up with a simple trick to dissolve prazi using a nylon stocking or bit of pantyhose.   Just put the required dose in the stocking, tie it off, submerge it in the pond or aquarium, and gently roll it between your fingers until it all disperses.  The dissolved prazi will immediately come out of the stocking and look like a white cloud as it is dispersed into the tank or pond water.

For pond applications:

• Remove all carbon from the pond filter
• Turn off the ultraviolet sterilizer
• Dose at a rate of 1 gram per 100 gallons of pond water for prolonged treatment.
• Reapply after 4 or 5 days if needed
• A partial water change can be made a week after the last application but is not required.

For live bearing Skin Flukes, one treatment is usually enough to kill both adult and juveniles.  With extremely heavy infestations, a second treatment is suggested.

For egg bearing Gill Flukes, two treatments spaced 4 or 5 days apart are necessary.   The first treatment kills the adults and juveniles, but not the eggs.   The second followup treatment 5 days later will kill the newly hatched eggs.

For aquarium applications:

Fish Tapes from Thomas Labs is Praziquantel in 34 mg tablets or loose powder form.

Capsules:

• After vacuuming the tank and making a water change, distribute the contents of one 34 mg capsule into the aquarium for every 4 gallons of water.
• Remove all activated carbon and discontinue UV sterilization, but do not stop filtration.
• One 5 to 7 day treatment is generally sufficient.
• Do not apply more than once every 3 to 5 days.
• Do not mix with any other drugs.

Loose Powder:

• For every 4 gallons of aquarium water, evenly distribute 1 level tsp of Praziquantel powder around the perimeter of the tank or directly into the filter.
• Remove all activated carbon and discontinue UV sterilization, but do not stop filtration.
• One 5 to 7 day treatment is generally sufficient.
• Do not apply more than once every 3 to 5 days.
• Do not mix with any other drugs.

After the Flukes are eradicated, treat the tank with a general bacteria cure.

PREVENTION:

Poor water quality and warm temperatures accelerate the reproductive cycle of Flukes (Trematoda), and because the life cycle of monogenean Flukes do not require an intermediate host, they can remain in a closed aquarium environment almost indefinitely.

The best prevention for Fluke infestations is to quarantine all fish and plants before introducing them into your pond or aquarium.   Because Flukes are microscopic and difficult to detect visually, new additions to your system should be watched carefully.

Maintaining pristine water quality and controlling the waste levels in the system is important in reducing existing Fluke populations and to ensure that the fish maintain a healthy immune system.

Manage Fluke infestations with Prazinaqantel, mebendazole, toltrazuril, formalin, organophosphates, or with salt (or freshwater for marine fish) baths.

Neon Tetra Disease (Plistophora hyphessobryconis)

Neon Tetra Disease (Plistophora hyphessobryconis) is a sporozoan parasite that infects neon tetras, cardinals, rasboras, angelfish, zebrafish, and other similar species. Regardless of what you have heard, there is NO CURE for Neon Tetra Disease.

A bacterial disease that infects Neon tetras, cardinals, etc. with almost identical symptoms is often misdiagnosed as Plistophora hyphessobryconis and can be cured with antibiotics, which is why some tropical fish keeping enthusiasts believe there is a cure for the disease.

PHYSICAL SYMPTOMS:

Fish infected with Neon Tetra Disease will appear restless, break off from the school, swim erratically, exhibit localized loss of color in a small area of the body, begin to waste away, and ultimately develop a kinked spine making it unable to swim normally.

Neon Tetra Disease (Plistophora hyphessobryconis)

The first sign of Neon Tetra Disease is a small patch of color loss on the body of the fish.   Neon’s colors normally fade at night and this is normal, but when only one spot on the fish is faded or colored white and the rest of the fish’s color pattern is normal, the fish is likely infected. When the fish no longer swims or interacts with the school, the disease has already begun to affect the fish.   Fish with these symptoms never recover.

CAUSE:

Neon Tetra disease is caused by the microsporidian parasite Pleistophora hyphessobryconis which infects the skeletal musculature causing muscle tissue damage which appears necrotic and white or marbled.

The disease is quickly transmitted through all fish in the aquarium once the fish consume the dead bodies of other infected fish in the tank or live foods like Tubifex or bloodworms, which act as a carrier of the disease.

Once the other fish in the tank eat particles of the dead fish or tubifex, the microsporidian spores enter the body of the fish and begin to consume the healthy fish.

The cysts begin to show up as a pale white color on the infected fish as the fish begins to deteriorate from the inside out.

Once you see symptoms on the fish, the fish is doomed and cannot recover.

TREATMENT:

There is currently no known treatment for Neon Tetra Disease (Plistophora hyphessobryconis).

Because there are a few bacterial diseases that have similar symptoms, many tropical fish keeping enthusiasts opt to remove infected fish from the tank and try anti bacterial treatments in a hospital tank with the hope that the infection is a similar bacterial infection.

If the fish recovers, it did not have neon tetra disease but a bacterial infection.

Euthanasia is generally the most prudent option as soon as Neon Tetra Disease symptoms are observed on an individual in the tank.

PREVENTION:

The only way to prevent the spread of Neon Tetra Disease is to remove any fish showing symptoms as soon as possible and euthanize it before the disease can be passed on to other fish in the aquarium.

The agent that causes Neon Tetra Disease can live for several months in an aquarium without a host.   Any fish that can be infected by the disease should not be returned to the tank that had the disease for at least six months to prevent reinfection.

Neon Tetra Disease (Plistophora hyphessobryconis) is an extremely difficult disease to control.