Lawnmower Blenny (Salarias fasciatus)

The Lawnmower Blenny (Salarias fasciatus) known to tropical fish keeping enthusiasts as the Algae Blenny, Sailfin Blenny, Sailfin Algae Blenny, Rock Blenny, or Jewelled Rockskipper is native to Indo Pacific waters, including the Red Sea, the western Pacific Ocean, and the Great Barrier Reef in Australia.

Ranging from East Africa and the Red Sea, to Samoa and the Islands of Micronesia, the Lawnmower Blenny is a solitary species that is most often found on rocky shorelines and shallow coral reef flats with abundant growths of algae at depths from 1 to 30 feet.

The Lawnmower Blenny has an olive to brown, green, or gray elongated body; with dark bars, numerous round and elongated white spots, and an abundance of pale spots, anteriorly running dark streaks, and several darker bands that enables them to blend into their surroundings as they comb for algae.

Lawnmower Blenny (Salarias fasciatus)

The Jewelled Rockskipper has a large mouth, an oversize head covered with blue or black dots, dorsal and anal fins attached to the caudal fin, broad fanlike pectoral fins, and cirri (antanae) on their head between their black pronounced eyes. There are usually dark longitudinal lines on the front part of the body, and small bright blue spots with dark outlines along the rear part of the body that give them their Jewelled Rockskipper moniker.

Male Salarias fasciatus often have longer and more pronounced spines on their anal fins, while females tend to be slightly larger and rounder.

Like the Midas Blenny (Ecsenius midas), Salarias fasciatus can change colors depending on their mood.

The Lawnmower Blenny is a peaceful species that can be housed in a mature FOWLR or well established reef aquarium of at least 30 gallon capacity with a coralline gravel or live sand substrate, and plenty of live rock with healthy populations of microalgae and macroalgae arranged into crevices, ledges, caves, and overhangs for them to perch and graze on.   Adequate lighting and a healthy algae population is crucial to fulfill their dietary needs.

Although the Lawnmower Blenny is considered reef safe, they are known to occasionally pick on small polyp stony corals and clam mantles in smaller tanks or when food is scarce.

The Lawnmower Blenny is generally peaceful towards other species unless the tank mate is similar in shape or appearance. It is best to house them alone unless kept in larger aquariums or as mated pairs.

The do well in mature FOWLR tanks with other peaceful species like Dottybacks, Flame Hawkfish, Dwarf Angelfish like the Coral Beauty, Anthias, Yellow Boxfish, Kole Tangs, etc.

Because they need a diet rich in algae and biofilm to breed and limited information about their spawning behavior is known; the Lawnmower Blenny is not commonly bred in captivity. The additional challenge to breeding is their aggression towards their own species. They are egg layers that produce adhesive eggs and plaggic larvae.

In their natural environment, the Lawnmower Blenny feeds on detritus, algae, and biofilm which they scrape from hard surfaces in the shallow reefs and lagoons that they reside in.   Their diet includes decomposed organic matter, various types of filamentous algae and diatoms, small invertebrates and shelled protozoa, and occasionally sponges, small snails, and fish eggs.

In a well established aquarium with plenty of biofilm, live rock and algae growth, their diet should be supplemented with vegetable matter, spirulina, marine algae, and frozen herbivore preparations. Dried nori can be provided when natural algae is scarce.

A steady diet of microalgae and macroalgae is essential for the health and well being of this species.

The Lawnmower Blenny (Salarias fasciatus) is commonly available to tropical fish keeping enthusiasts as wild caught and aquacultured specimens from a variety of local aquarium shops and online retailers, wholesalers, and transhippers at prices that vary on size and area of collection.

Approximate purchase sizes: Small: 1″ to 1-1/2″; Medium: 1-1/2″ to 2-1/2″; Large: 2-1/2″ to 3-1/2″; XLarge: 3-1/2″ to 5″

Prices start at $22.49 for small, to $38.99 for medium specimens from the Philippines.

Lawnmower Blenny (Salarias fasciatus)

Minimum Tank Size: 30 gallon (90+ gallons for pairs)
Aquarium Type: FOWLR or Reef
Care Level: Easy
Temperament: Peaceful
Aquarium Hardiness: Hardy
Water Conditions: 72-78° F, dKH 8 – 12°, pH 8.1-8.4, sg 1.020-1.025
Max size: 5″
Color Form: Assorted, Green, Tan
Diet: Herbivore
Compatibility: Reef Safe
Origin: Indo Pacific
Family: Blenniidae
Lifespan: 2 – 5 years
Aquarist Experience Level: Beginner

Midas Blenny (Ecsenius midas)

The Midas Blenny (Ecsenius midas) known to tropical fish keeping enthusiasts as Midas Goby, Midas Cleaner Blenny, Yellow Blenny, Golden Midas Blenny, Lyretail Blenny, Persian Blenny or Yellowtail Blenny is is primarily found in the Indo-Pacific region from the Gulf of Aqaba and southeast coast of Africa, to the Marquesan Islands.

Its range includes the Red Sea, East Africa, Mauritius, Reunion, Seychelles, Maldives, Andaman Islands, Philippines, Indonesia, Solomon Islands, New Guinea, Vanuatu, Fiji, Tonga and Samoa.

Adult Midas Blennies are a peaceful species that are normally observed swimming 6 to 10 feet from the bottom in the clear coastal to outer coral reef walls of their range at depths to 98 feet, where the currents are moderate to heavy, feeding on plankton.    They have a distinct eel like swimming motion that they can dispense with to mimic the swimming styles of other species they associate with.

The Midas Blenny can often be seen schooling with Lyretail Anthias (Pseudanthias squamipinnis) during their orange yellow phase.   They can quickly change color when on the bottom to swimming in open water to match the colors of the fish they mix with. as well as mimic their swimming behavior.

Midas Blennies are often found swimming with Threadfin Anthias (Pseudanthias huchtii) and Fusilier damselfish (Lepidozygus tapeinosomoa) feeding on zooplankton.

Midas Blenny (Ecsenius midas)

The Midas Blenny has an elongated, golden orange, eel like body with a splash of blue under the chin and bright, blue rimmed eyes.   They have a narrow dark margin on the anterior part of the dorsal fin and a black spot around the anus.   Adults have long, flowing tails.

Midas Blenny (Ecsenius midas)

There is an Indonesian form that has a gray to greenish golden yellow body color that is common to the area.

The Midas Blenny can be housed in a FOWLR or mature reef tank of at least 30 gallon capacity with a live sand substrate and plenty of live rock arranged into caves, crevices, ledges and overhangs for them to investigate and hide among.   They will sift through the fine particles of live sand with their comb teeth to find micro fauna.

A tight tank cover is recommended to prevent them from jumping out of the tank when startled, and a power head for moderate water movement.

The Midas Blenny does well in a mature FOWLR aquarium with other peaceful species and is an excellent candidate for reef tanks.   They will not bother corals or invertebrates.

Although they are generally non aggressive, they will nip at other gobies, firefish, and small planktivores when housed in smaller tanks.   For two or more blennies, an aquarium of 90 gallons or more is recommended to minimize confrontations.

The Midas Blenny has been bred successfully in an aquarium environment.

The Midas Blenny typically engage in distinct pairing during the spawning process.   During a brief courtship ritual, the male Midas Blenny will change its appearance dramatically by displaying vibrant colors to attract a mate.     During the spawning process, the male and female will work together to select a suitable nesting area among the rocks in a crevice.   The adhesive eggs are deposited in the nest attached to the substrate via a filamentous, adhesive pad or pedestal where the male guards them against potential threats.   After a few days the eggs hatch out into small planktonic larvae that are often found in the shallow coastal waters of their range.

In an aquarium environment, the tiny fry should be removed to a rearing tank as soon as they are visible and fed with rotifers and phytoplankton.    Daily 10% water changes are necessary until they grow out into juveniles.

In their natural environment, the Midas Blenny feeds on zooplankton.   In an aquarium environment, the Midas Blenny requires a meaty diet that includes finely chopped crustacean flesh, Mysis and vitamin enriched brine shrimp, small pieces of fresh seafood, frozen herbivorous preparations, micro, and blue green algae.

The Midas Blenny (Ecsenius midas) is widely available to tropical fish keeping enthusiasts as wild caught or captive bred specimens from a variety of online retailers, wholesalers, and transhippers at prices that vary on size and area of collection.

Prices for approximate purchase sizes: Medium: 1-3/4″ to 4″; Large: 4″ to 6″ vary from $ 69.99 for medium sized African specimens to over $130.00 for large specimens.

Midas Blenny (Ecsenius midas)

Minimum Tank Size: 30 gallon (90+ gallons for pairs)
Aquarium Type: FOWLR or Reef
Care Level: Easy
Temperament: Peaceful
Aquarium Hardiness: Hardy
Water Conditions: 73-82° F, dKH 8 – 12°, pH 7.9-8.5, sg 1.020-1.027
Max size: 6″
Color Form: Blue, Yellow, Orange, Gray, Greenish Gold
Diet: Omnivore
Compatibility: Reef Safe
Origin: Indo-Pacific Ocean, Africa, Indonesia, Fiji, Maldives, Red Sea
Family: Blenniidae
Lifespan: 5– 7 years
Aquarist Experience Level: Beginner

Tail Spot Blenny (Ecsenius stigmatura)

The Tail Spot Blenny (Ecsenius stigmatura) known to tropical fish keeping enthusiasts as the Tail-spot Combtooth-blenny, Stigma Blenny, or Tailspot Coralblenny is found in the Red Sea and Western Pacific Ocean and is native to the coastal waters of the Philippines and Indonesia.

The Tail Spot Blenny is a peaceful herbivore that inhabit the rocky shores of the coral rich reefs and rubble slopes of their range at depths from 6 to 100 feet where they graze on benthic algae and weeds.

Although adult Tail Spot Blennies are solitary and usually encountered as lone individuals close to the bottom, they are occasionally seen in small groups hiding amongst the crevices in the coastal lagoons and sheltered coral reef habitats of their range.

Tail Spot Blenny (Ecsenius stigmatura)

The Tail Spot Blenny has an elongated body, very large expressive eyes that have a bright yellow iris, and a small mouth.  They have a coppery, orange brown to gray body color with a grayish blue head.   A black and yellow line runs from below the eye to above axil, and a black and white spot on the base of the caudal fin gives it their common name.

The dorsal, ventral, and caudal fins are clear.  When threatened, the vibrant colors below the eye turns a bright pink.

The Tail Spot Blenny is best housed in a mature reef or FOWLR tank of at least 20 gallon capacity with a coralline gravel substrate and plenty of algae encrusted live rock arranged into crevices, caves, ledges, and overhangs for them to graze, perch, and hide among. Sufficient lighting to promote a thriving population of algae on the live rock is essential for the well being of this species.

The Tail Spot Blenny thrives in mature reef tanks and is completely reef safe. They help control algae growing in the aquarium and will not bother corals, decorative clams, or invertebrates.

Although Tailspot Blennies are generally peaceful and will coexist with most peaceful tank mates, they can become territorial towards other blennies or similar looking fish species.

Suitable tank mates for Tail Spot Blennies include Dottybacks, Gobies, Anthias, Cardinalfish, Dwarf Angelfish, Fairy Wrasses, etc.

They should never be housed with larger aggressive species.

The Tail Spot Blenny has been bred in an aquarium environment. Successful breedings begin with the establishment of a safe, stress free environment where they can lay their adhesive eggs.

Start with a wild caught pair or with aquacultured juveniles in a tank with copious amounts of live rock.   Pairs will typically spawn in the cavities of the rock or deposit their adhesive eggs on the substrate via a filamentous, adhesive pad or pedestal.

The male Ecsenius stigmatura tends to guard and aerate the eggs by fanning them with his fins until they hatch out into small planktonic larvae that are often found in the shallow coastal waters of their range.

In an aquarium environment, the tiny fry should be removed to a rearing tank as soon as they are visible and fed with rotifers and phytoplankton. Daily 10% water changes are necessary until they grow out into juveniles.

In their natural environment, the Tail Spot Blenny feeds on benthic algae and several varieties of marine vegetation.

In an aquarium environment, they will keep down excessive algae growth in the tank but still require additional vegetable matter such as frozen herbivore preparations, dried foods containing marine and blue green algae, marine algae sheets, spirulina pellets, and finely chopped fresh or frozen vegetables.

The Tail Spot Blenny (Ecsenius stigmatura) is widely available to tropical fish keeping enthusiasts as wild caught or captive bred specimens from a variety of online retailers, wholesalers, and transhippers at prices that vary on size and area of collection.

Approximate purchase sizes are:  Small: 3/4″ to 1-1/4″; Medium: 1-1/4″ to 1-3/4″; Large: 1-3/4″ to 2-1/4″.   Prices range from $29.99 for small. to $45.99 or more for large specimens collected from the Philippines.

Tail Spot Blenny (Ecsenius stigmatura)

Minimum Tank Size: 20 gallon (55+ gallons for pairs)
Aquarium Type: Reef or FOWLR
Care Level: Easy
Temperament: Peaceful
Aquarium Hardiness: Hardy
Water Conditions: 72-78°F, dKH 8 – 12°, pH 8.1–8.4, sg 1.020-1.025
Max size: 2.5″
Color Form: Blue, Black, Orange,Yellow
Diet: Herbivore
Compatibility: Reef Safe
Origin: Philippines and Indonesia
Family: Blenniidae
Lifespan: 4 – 6 years
Aquarist Experience Level: Beginner

Bundoon Blenny (Meiacanthus bundoon)

The Bundoon Blenny (Meiacanthus bundoon) known to tropical fish keeping enthusiasts as the Meiacanthus Bundoon is native to South Pacific waters around Tonga and Fiji.

The Bundoon Blenny is a venomous yet peaceful species that is generally found swimming just above the bottom among the rocks and branching corals in the shallow rocky reefs and drop offs of their range, at depths from 3 to 70 feet, feeding on zooplankton.

Bundoon Blenny (Meiacanthus bundoon)

The Bundoon Blenny has an elongated body with a forked caudal fin, a dark olive to black body color with a vibrant, wedge shaped, orange to yellow stripe along the sides from behind the eye to the mid section of the body, green opercle and cheeks. The base and lobes of the caudal fin is black with a white to transparent central posterior area.

Males are generally larger than females and display a succession of vivid color changes when breeding.

Bundoon Blenny (Meiacanthus bundoon)

The Bundoon Blenny is a hardy species that can be housed in a well established FOWLR or mature reef aquarium of at least 30 gallon capacity, with a coralline gravel or sandy substrate, and plenty of aged live rock arranged into nooks, crevices, caves, ledges, and overhangs for them to graze and hide among.

The Bundoon Blenny has a peaceful temperament that is suitable for community tanks, however, they can become territorial towards other species that resemble their shape. They are venomous and will retaliate attacks made by other fish by biting the insides of the mouth of the attacker.

Bundoon Blennies do fine in well established aquariums with plenty of rockwork and tank space.   Unless kept as a breeding pair, only a single Meiacanthus bundoon should be housed in a 30 gallon tank.

The Bundoon Blenny is reef safe and makes a perfect candidate for a mature reef aquarium.    They are peaceful and will not bother decorative clams, invertebrates, or corals.

Although are not commonly available to tropical fish keeping enthusiasts, the Bundoon Blenny has been bred in an aquarium environment. It is best to start with a wild caught pair or aquacultured juveniles in a tank with copious amounts of live rock. Their eggs are demersal and adhesive. Pairs will typically spawn in the cavities of the rock or deposit their adhesive eggs on the substrate via a filamentous, adhesive pad or pedestal.   Both parents vigorously guard the adhesive eggs until they hatch out into small planktonic larvae that are often found in the shallow coastal waters of their range.

In an aquarium environment, the tiny fry should be removed to a rearing tank as soon as they are visible and fed with rotifers and phytoplankton. Daily 10% water changes are necessary until they grow out into juveniles.

In their natural environment, the Bundoon Blenny feeds on a variety of zooplankton.   In an aquarium environment, they are not especially picky eaters. A mixed diet of Mysis, finely chopped krill, vitamin enriched brine shrimp, chopped crustaceans, and frozen herbivore preparations will keep them healthy. Feeding several times a day is recommended.

The Bundoon Blenny (Meiacanthus bundoon) is not commonly available to tropical fish keeping enthusiasts but can be obtained as wild caught or aquacultured specimens from online retailers, wholesalers, and transhippers at prices that vary on size and area of collection.   Most specimens from Tonga are available at purchase sizes: Small: 3/4″ to 1-1/4″; Medium: 1-1/4″ to 2″; Large: 2″ to 3″. Special order small Tonga specimens start at $ 64.99.

Bundoon Blenny (Meiacanthus bundoon)

Minimum Tank Size: 30 gallon (55+ gallons for pairs)
Aquarium Type: Reef or FOWLR
Care Level: Moderate
Temperament: Peaceful
Aquarium Hardiness: Hardy
Water Conditions: 75-82°F, dKH 8 – 12°, pH 8.1–8.4, sg 1.020-1.025
Max size: 3.1″
Color Form: Blue, Black, Orange, Black, Yellow
Diet: Omnivore
Compatibility: Reef Safe
Origin: Tonga, Fiji
Family: Blenniidae
Lifespan: 4 – 6 years
Aquarist Experience Level: Beginner/Experienced

Bicolor Blenny (Ecsenius bicolor)

The Bicolor Blenny (Ecsenius bicolor) known to tropical fish keeping enthusiasts as the Two-colored Blenny or Flame-Tail Blenny is found throughout Indo Pacific waters around Fiji, Sri Lanka, the Maldives, and Indonesia. Its range extends from the Maldives to the Phoenix Islands, north to the Ryukyu Islands, and south to the southern Great Barrier Reef; throughout Micronesia.

The Bicolor Blenny is a solitary species that inhabits the estuaries, clear lagoons, brackish seas, and seaward reefs of their range in areas of mixed corals and algae covered rocks at depths from 3 to over 80 feet where they hide among the crevices, rocks, and abandoned tubes.

Bicolor Blenny (Ecsenius bicolor)

The Bicolor Blenny has an elongated, eel like body shape, and an expressive face with large protruding eyes and antennae that occurs in three color phases: The bicolor phase that has a black anterior body color with a yellow posterior or a blue to dull brown anterior with a dull orange posterior.

The two other phases have black dorsal areas with a broad white lateral band and a dusky belly, and a broad lateral band with or without a yellow tail.   During breeding, the males exhibit dramatic color changes that include a dark blue phase.

Males are generally larger than the less vibrantly colored females. Additionally, the anal and dorsal fins in males are

Bicolor Blenny (Ecsenius bicolor)

larger and more extended than in females.

The Bicolor Blenny is normally a peaceful acquisition when housed in a mature community FOWLR or reef aquarium of at least 30 gallon capacity with a sandy or coralline gravel substrate and a good amount of algae covered live rock arranged into crevices, caves, and overhangs for them to graze and hide among.

The Bicolor Blenny is considered reef safe in larger tanks but have been known to pick at the mantles of clams and fleshy large polyp stony corals when crowded or underfed. They rarely do any damage to stony corals or clams in larger reef setups.

In FOWLR tanks, they are highly competitive about their algal food source and have been known to pick at other blennies, gobies, dartfish and even other species like Royal Gramma and Bi color Angelfish that have similar color markings.    Some fish that get along well with the Bicolor Blenny include tangs like the Kole Tang or Mimic Tang, Butterflyfish like the Copperband Butterflyfish, and Damselfish.   Avoid Scorpionfish, groupers, lionfish, hogfish, frogfish, parrotfish, and eels like the Blue or Black Ribbon Eel that could make a meal of them.

The Bicolor Blenny has been successfully bred in an aquarium environment. Mated pairs are notorious about fighting with each other prior to breeding. Breeding is eminent when the colors in the male become more vivid and the pair disappear into a hiding spot among the porous live rock to deposit their eggs. The sticky eggs are attached to the substrate in the nest via a filamentous, adhesive pad or pedestal. Both the male and female vigorously guard the adhesive eggs until they hatch out several days later into small planktonic larvae that are often found in shallow coastal waters.

In an aquarium environment, the tiny fry should be removed to another rearing tank as soon as they are visible and fed with rotifers and phytoplankton. Daily 10% water changes are necessary until they grow out into juveniles.

In their natural environment, the Bicolor Blenny feeds on a variety of marine algae.   In an aquarium environment, they will graze on the naturally occurring micro algae in the aquarium and should be offered frozen and dried foods that contain marine and blue green algae, spirulina based flake or pellet foods, and occasionally Mysis and brine shrimp.   Small portions offered twice daily is recommended to keep them healthy.   This species will not survive without algae.

The Bicolor Blenny (Ecsenius bicolor) is commonly available to tropical fish keeping enthusiasts as wild caught or aquacultured specimens from online retailers, wholesalers, and transhippers at very reasonable prices that vary on size and area of collection.

Prices for approximate purchase sizes: 1-1/4″ to 4″ at prices starting at $22.95 for small specimens.

Bicolor Blenny (Ecsenius bicolor)

Minimum Tank Size: 30 gallon (55+ gallons for pairs)
Aquarium Type: Reef or FOWLR
Care Level: Easy
Temperament: Peaceful
Aquarium Hardiness: Hardy
Water Conditions: 72-78° F, dKH 8 – 12°, pH 8.1–8.4, sg 1.021-1.023
Max size: 4″
Color Form: Blue, Orange, Black, Yellow
Diet: Herbivore
Compatibility: Reef Safe
Origin: Indo Pacific
Family: Blenniidae
Lifespan: 4 – 6 years
Aquarist Experience Level: Beginner

Scooter Blenny (Synchiropus ocellatus)

The Scooter Blenny (Synchiropus ocellatus) known to tropical fish keeping enthusiasts as the Ocellated Dragonet, Scooter dragonet, Red scooter dragonet, Red scooter blenny, Starry dragonet, or Stellate dragonet is found in the southwest Pacific Ocean from southern Japan to the Marquesan Islands.

The Scooter Blenny, actually a dragonet (not part of the blenny family) is a peaceful, bottom dwelling species that is found in coral rich areas of the shallower coastal reefs, sandy lagoons, and seaward reef slopes of their range among sandy or rubble substrates at depths to 90 feet.

The Scooter Blenny is a peaceful, solitary species that will often form loose groups or “harems”. They generally do not stake off territories and can be found over wide areas on and just off the bottom.

Like other carnivorous dragonets, the Scooter Blenny spends its day “scooting” along the bottom with its specialized, wing like pectoral fins feeding on small crustaceans, invertebrates, Copepods, zooplankton, and other micro fauna.

Scooter Blenny (Synchiropus ocellatus)

The Scooter Blenny has a leaner, more streamlined body than most other dragonets and an intricately mottled body pattern that consists of various shades of tan, brown, black or rust across the body interspersed with lighter spots, dashes, and splotches of brighter colors.

They have small expressive eyes on top of their head, sensory barbells to detect their prey, and pointed snouts with small specialized mouths to extract their food from the sand and rubble rock.

Although their overall coloration is subdued and earthy, males when confronted by other males, especially during the breeding season, will display their large bright orange dorsal fins and exhibit brighter, more vivid colors.

The much sought after red Scooter Blenny color variant in particular, is deeper and more intensely colored.

Scooter Blenny (Synchiropus ocellatus)

Males have a larger dorsal fin, are larger than females, and are generally more brightly colored.

The Scooter Blenny is a peaceful species that does best in a reef tank or FOWLR aquarium of at least 30 gallon capacity that has matured at least 6 to 8 months, with a deep live sand substrate and copious amounts of live rock arranged into caves, overhangs and crevices for them to hop around, explore, and graze from.    Moderate lighting to replicate their natural living conditions and an efficient filtration system with a good protein skimmer is necessary to maintaining stable water parameters. This species benefits greatly from a refugium sump liberally stocked with amphipods and copepods.

Because all dragonets are superb jumpers, a tight fitting cover is recommended.

Although the Scooter Blenny is generally a very peaceful fish that does well with others of their own kind, they should be introduced into the tank at the same time at a ratio of 2 to 3 females per male.

When keeping more than one male Synchiropus ocellatus or more than a single species: a larger tank of at least 55 gallon capacity with a deep layer of live sand is needed to provide the space and the food source they need to thrive.

Scooter Blennies get along well with other similarly sized, non aggressive species such as Clownfish, Lawnmower Blennies, Mandarin Gobies, Green Blennies, Watchman Gobies, Dwarf Angelfish, non predatory Invertebrates like Fire and Cleaner Shrimp, Snails, Hermit Crabs, etc. .

Avoid housing them with larger, aggressive species and Anemones that could make a meal of them.

The Scooter Blenny has been bred in an aquarium environment however, but raising the fry is extremely challenging.

Spawning usually occurs during the evening as the sun sets.   When ready to spawn, the Scooter Blenny pair will begin a courtship ritual by linking their fins together and swimming together towards the surface from above the sand.   With their fins locked, just before reaching the surface, the pair will split apart and go back to the substrate to repeat the ritual.  This can happen multiple times before the final trip to the surface that culminates in the simultaneous release of gametes. The eggs hatch around 12 to 16 hours after fertilization, and the fry usually finish absorbing their yolk sacs another 36 hours later.   The tiny Scooter Blenny fry are extremely small and require the same food as their parents.

Tisbee Pods, Rotifers, baby brine shrimp, Mysis shrimp, and other tiny, protein rich offerings can be fed to the tiny fry.

The biggest challenge is feeding the fry without fouling the water from uneaten food. You will need to perform daily 25-50% water changes without draining the micro fauna food supply that the fish need for survival from the rearing tank.

In their natural environment, Scooter Blennies are constantly foraging on small Zooplankton, amphipods, copepods and other micro fauna.

In a well established aquarium environment, their primary food source is the steady supply of live copepods and amphipods from the live sand and live rock in the aquarium and refugium.  Although live copepods provide essential nutrients and help maintain their natural foraging behavior, Tisbee Pods, Tisbe biminiensis, and supplemental offerings of frozen Zooplankton, bloodworms, glassworms, Mysis shrimp, brine shrimp, marine algae, and nori can also be offered.

The Scooter Blenny (Synchiropus ocellatus) is commonly available to tropical fish keeping enthusiasts as wild caught or aquacultured specimens from online retailers, wholesalers, and transhippers at reasonable prices that vary on size and area of collection.

Prices for approximate purchase sizes: Small: 1″ to 2″ $24.99; Medium: 2″ to 3″ $33.99; Large: 3″ to 5″ $39.99.

Scooter Blenny (Synchiropus ocellatus)

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Minimum Tank Size: 30 gallon (55+ gallons for multiple pairs)
Aquarium Type: Reef or FOWLR
Care Level: Difficult
Temperament: Peaceful
Aquarium Hardiness: Hardy when acclimated
Water Conditions: 72-78° F, dKH 8 – 12°, pH 8.1–8.4, sg 1.023-1.025
Max size: 5″
Color Form: Red, White, Tan, Black
Diet: Carnivore
Compatibility: Reef Safe
Origin: Indonesia, Philippines
Family: Callionymidae
Lifespan: 2 – 4 years
Aquarist Experience Level: Intermediate

Bladefin Basslet (Jeboehlkia gladifer)

The Bladefin Basslet (Jeboehlkia gladifer) known to tropical fish keeping enthusiasts as the Longspine Sea Bass is a super rare deep water species found in the western Atlantic from South Carolina to the southern Caribbean.

Frequently collected by submersibles from deep water reefs like those in Curaçao, Puerto Rico; the Bladefin Basslet is a shy, solitary, semi aggressive, deep water Planktivore that is found at depths from 350 feet to over 1,300 feet.

Although it only reaches a maximum size of about 3 inches in length, the Bladefin Basslet is highly aggressive toward its own kind and other similar looking species.   It is peaceful with small reef fish and invertebrates.

Adult Bladefin Basslet (Jeboehlkia gladifer)

The Bladefin Basslet has an elongated compressed body with a large eye, a pointed snout, and a long spike on its front dorsal fin. It has a glowing white, pinkish, to reddish pink body color with a narrow white stripe along the centerline of the head to the long spiked dorsal fin, and a broad red to orange bar across the soft dorsal and anal fins, as well as the caudal fin. The soft dorsal, anal and caudal fins are edged in white into red and the long spiked dorsal fin is white. Juveniles at 1.5 inches in length are developing their color. At 2″ in length, adult fish are fully colored with the bold dorsal fin extended.

The delicate nature and specific feeding requirements of the Bladefin Basslet make them challenging to maintain for even the most experienced aquarists.

Although the Bladefin Basslet can be housed in a nano reef setup, they are best housed in a mature deep water reef tank of at least 30 gallon capacity with a sandy substrate and copious amounts of live rock arranged into crevices, overhangs, and numerus caves for them to hide in.   They require low to moderate lighting, gentle to moderate water flow, and pristine water conditions with <5 ppm Nitrates to thrive.

Along with an excellent filtration system, protein skimmer, and aquarium chiller; frequent water changes are highly recommended to keep this fish healthy.

Bladefin Basslets can be kept singly or in a specific species display.   They are shy but active, and will thrive with small reef safe fish and invertebrates in cave rich environments.

This species has never been bred in an aquarium environment.

In their natural environment, the Bladefin Basslet feeds primarily on Zooplankton.   In an aquarium environment, they can be fed finely chopped Mysis shrimp, copepods, enriched brine shrimp, micro frozen carnivore marine blends, and micro pellets.  Multiple feedings throughout the day will enhance their coloration and reduce stress.

The Bladefin Basslet (Jeboehlkia gladifer) is recognized as the most expensive aquarium species in the hobby for its size and is the only species in the genus Jeboehlkia.

The reason for the astronomically high cost of the Bladefin Basslet is because of the incedible depths at which they occur; up to 800 feet or more.

Currently, most available specimens are being collected by licensed deep water collection teams in 500 to over 800 feet of water using specialized submersible technology and decompression protocols to safely capture the fish.

The Bladefin Basslets are conditioned to low light, stress reducing environments and held in darkroom quarantine for 14 to 21 days or more while being acclimated to captive feeding.   In addition, reputable suppliers will usually provide deep water documentation for customs compliance.

Prices from the Luxury Fish Shop for Juvenile Bladefin Basslets 1.5″ start at $8,000.00; Adults up to 2″ are currently $10,500.00 or more.

Bladefin Basslet (Jeboehlkia gladifer)

Minimum Tank Size: 30 gallon
Aquarium Type: Deepwater Reef
Care Level: Difficult
Temperament: Semi Aggressive
Aquarium Hardiness: Hardy when acclimated
Water Conditions: 72-78° F, dKH 8 – 12°, pH 8.1–8.4, sg 1.023-1.025
Max size: 1.5″ to 2″
Color Form: White, Red
Diet: Carnivore/Planktivore
Compatibility: Reef Safe
Origin: Western Atlantic Ocean; Curaçao, Puerto Rico
Family: Serranidae
Lifespan: 5–10 years in stable, low stress aquariums
Aquarist Experience Level: Expert

Ruby Red Dragonet (Synchiropus sycorax)

The Ruby Red Dragonet (Synchiropus sycorax) known to tropical fish keeping enthusiasts as the Ruby Dragonet, Moyer’s Dragonet, and Red Wine Scooter Dragonet is only found around Jolo Island within the Sulu Peninsula in the Philippines.

The Ruby Red Dragonet is a deep water dragonet that is found alone, in pairs, and occasionally in small loose groups around soft and stony corals, coral rubble, and broken rocks that they use as retreats in depths to 125 feet or more.

Ruby Red Dragonet (Synchiropus sycorax)

The Ruby Red Dragonet is a beautiful, vibrantly colored species that has a bright crimson red body color with yellow colorations around the pectoral and ventral fins, white dashes around the head, and smaller white dashes over the body. Males have large dorsal fins with a long first spine. Females are smaller with a black to dark blue splotch on the first dorsal.

The Redback Dragonet (Synchiropus tudorjonesi) found around Cenderawasih Bay in Indonesia is occasionally misidentified as the Ruby Dragonet however, the Redback Dragonet has no yellow on their fins and the third spine on their dorsal fins extend the highest.

The Ruby Red Dragonet is only found in the Philippines.

The Ruby Red Dragonet is a peaceful species that does best in an aged reef tank that has matured at least 6 to 8 months, of at least 30 gallon capacity, with a deep live sand substrate and copious amounts of live rock arranged into caves, overhangs and crevices for them to hop around, explore, hide among, and graze from.   This species benefits greatly from a refugium sump well stocked with amphipods and copepods. Because all dragonets are superb jumpers, a tight fitting cover is recommended.

When keeping more than one male Synchiropus sycorax or more than one species: a larger tank of at least 55 gallon capacity with a good thick layer of live sand is recommended to provide the space and the food source they need.

Although Ruby Red Dragonets are very peaceful fish and get along with others of their own kind, the fish should be introduced into the tank at the same time at a ratio of 2 to 3 females per male to prevent spats between the males, especially during spawning.

Ruby Red Dragonets do get territorial when kept with blennies, gobies and dartfish, especially if they feel crowded. The Ruby Red Dragonet will get along well with other species as long as they are not aggressive or overly competitive. Potential tankmates include chromis, tilefish, jawfish, tangs, angelfish, wrasses, puffers, flame hawkfish, and rabbitfish.

Although Red Ruby Dragonets make excellent reef fish, take care when keeping them with sea anemones in reef tanks. They are small, too trusting, and often end up as food for the anemone.

The Red Ruby Dragonet has been bred in an aquarium environment as well as commercially.

The eggs are pelagic, floating in the open water until they hatch out into small larvae.   Males and females are about the same size but males are more colorful and have a more prominent first dorsal fin. A short courtship that usually happens after the sun goes down initiates the spawning process where both the male and female swim towards the surface with locked fins. At the surface the pair release their gametes. The buoyant eggs are pelagic and float in open water until they hatch out into small larvae.

The larvae are smaller than Red Scooter Blennies (Synchiropus ocellatus) or Brown Scooter Blennies (Synchiropus stellatus) and develop more slowly, which makes breeding them somewhat complicated.   It takes 20 to 25 days for the small larvae to metamorphose, caring for the larvae is demanding, and the fertility rate is low.

Fortunately ORA offers captive bred lines to tropical fish keeping enthusiasts.

In their natural habitat, Red Ruby Dragonets walk on their ventral fins throughout the day hunting for amphipods and copepods.

In an aquarium environment their slow moving, deliberate, feeding habits and specialized diet makes them difficult to keep. They will not convert to a commercial diet which is why their tank must be furnished with mature live sand, live rock, AND a refugium that is well stocked with amphipods and copepods. They require copious amounts of live Tisbee Pods to keep them healthy and prevent them from wasting away.

Tisbe biminiensis and supplemental offerings of bloodworms, glassworms, Mysis shrimp, brine shrimp, marine algae, and nori can also be offered.

The Ruby Red Dragonet (Synchiropus sycorax) is available to tropical fish keeping enthusiasts upon request as wild caught and aquacultured specimens from online retailers, wholesalers, and transhippers. Prices for approximate purchase sizes: 1/2″ to 2-1/2″ range from $ 49.99 – $64.99 or more

Ruby Red Dragonet (Synchiropus sycorax)

Minimum Tank Size: 30 gallon (55+ gallons for pairs)
Aquarium Type: Reef
Care Level: Difficult
Temperament: Peaceful
Aquarium Hardiness: Hardy when acclimated
Water Conditions: 72-78° F, dKH 8 – 12°, pH 8.1–8.4, sg 1.023-1.026
Max size: 2.8″
Color Form: Red, White, Yellow
Diet: Carnivore
Compatibility: Reef Safe
Origin: Jolo Island, Philippines
Family: Callionymidae
Lifespan: 4 – 6 years
Aquarist Experience Level: Expert

Clown Triggerfish (Balistoides conspicillum)

The Clown Triggerfish (Balistoides conspicillum) known to tropical fish keeping enthusiasts as the Bigspotted Triggerfish is widely distributed throughout tropical and subtropical waters in the Red Sea, Mediterranean Sea, Pacific and Indian Oceans.

Their range extends from the Indo-Pacific; East Africa to Samoa and the Line Islands in the Central Pacific Ocean. Introduced specimens have been reported in Boca Roton, Florida and the coastal waters of Spain and Israel.

Although they are widely distributed, they are not abundant throughout their range.

Adult Clown Triggerfish are a solitary, extremely aggressive, diurnal species that can be encountered alone, in pairs, and occasionally in harems near steep dropoffs along the outer coral reef slopes of their range at depths from 3 to over 250 feet.

Juvenile Clown Triggerfish are less aggressive and are commonly found at depths below 65 feet where

Juvenile Clown Triggerfish (Balistoides conspicillum)

they shelter among caves, crevices, and overhangs until they reach sexually maturity, usually around one year.

Clown Triggerfish (Balistoides conspicillum)

Clown Triggerfish have a black body color with large white blotches along the lower half of the body, a yellow net like pattern on the back just below the dorsal fin, and a broad white stripe that extends from the mid point of the nose to slightly in front and below the eyes. They have a yellow to yellow/orange ring around the mouth encircled by a thin white line. The anal and second dorsal fins are white underlined with a yellow line at their base. The top portion of the caudal peduncle has a yellowish blotch with three horizontal sets of spiny scales. The center of the caudal fin is yellowish with a black margin. The dorsal fin has three spines which comprise the “trigger system” that is characteristic of the Balistidae family. The first longer dorsal is erectile and can be hidden in a dorsal furrow. The second similarily shaped dorsal symmetrically opposes the anal fin.

Because of their belligerent attitude, adult Clown Triggerfish are best housed in a large mature FOWLR aquarium of at least 300 gallon capacity with a sandy or fine coralline gravel substrate, large amounts of live rock arranged into crevices, overhangs, and caves for them to hide among, and plenty of free swimming space.

Because Clown Triggerfish produce a significant amount of waste, they require pristine water conditions.   A powerful sump based filtration system or high capacity canister filter, an efficient protein skimmer, a powerhead or wavemaker to create moderate water flow and oxygenation, and weekly water changes of around 10-20% is highly recommended to keep their water free from harmful toxins.

Clown Triggerfish are NOT reef safe and do best in a single species tank or with similarly sized semi-aggressive to aggressive tankmates such as moray eels, large angelfish, groupers, large tangs, large triggers (Picasso or Niger), Lionfish, etc.

Adult Clown Triggerfish thrive when kept alone as the only trigger in the aquarium.

Juvenile Clown Triggerfish are less aggressive and are highly sought after by tropical fish keeping enthusiasts for community tanks but even when first introduced into the aquarium, they quickly get over their initial shyness and will attack less aggressive tankmates; especially other triggerfish. They should not be housed with smaller fish species.

Clown Triggerfish, or any triggerfish should be the very last fish added to an aquarium. If not, they will most likely see any added tank mate as a potential food source.

When kept in a single species tank, Bigspotted Triggerfish can become tame enough to be hand fed by their keepers. However, they have sharp teeth and have been known to take out a chunk of flesh when being fed.

Balistoides conspicillum have not been successfully bred in the home aquarium.

In the wild, juvenile Clown Triggerfish reach sexual maturity at about a year and will begin to form small harems for breeding. In deep water, pairs will clear off a patch in the sand to make a rudimentary nest for the female to deposit her eggs. The male fertilizes them and both parents guard the nest until the eggs hatch out; in approximately 8 days. The female cares for the fry until they can fend for themselves. Juveniles remain in deep water among the crevices, caves, and overhangs until they reach about 6 to 7 inches to begin the life cycle anew.

In their natural habitat, Clown Triggerfish are opportunistic feeders that prey on a varied diet of benthic organisms like echinoderms, mollusks, crustaceans, smaller fish, and occasionally Sea Lillies (crinoids).

In an aquarium environment they thrive on a varied high protein diet of live, fresh, or frozen shrimp, crab, krill, clams, mussels, snails, squid, small pieces of fish, high quality marine pellets, and occasional offerings of marine algae to provide additional fiber. Feeding small portions 2 to 3 times a day is recommended.

Clown Triggerfish (Balistoides conspicillum) are readily available to tropical fish keeping enthusiasts from a variety of online suppliers and specialty fish shops at relatively affordable prices that vary according to size and area of collection.

Approximate Purchase Sizes: Baby: 1/2″ to 1″; Small: 1″ to 2″; Small/Medium 2″ to 3″ Medium: 3″ to 4 1/4″; Medium/Large 4 1/4″ to 5″ Large: 5″ to 6″ X Large 6″ to 7″ XXLarge: 8″ to 9″

Prices range from $ 109.99 to over $ 409.99.

Clown Triggerfish (Balistoides conspicillum)

Minimum Tank Size: 300 gallons
Aquarium Type: FOLR
Care Level: Easy
Temperament: Aggressive
Aquarium Hardiness: Hardy
Water Conditions: 74-82° F, dKH 8 – 12°, pH 8.1 – 8.4, sg 1.023-1.025
Max size: 20″
Color Form: Black, White, Blue, Green, Orange, Yellow
Diet: Carnivore
Compatibility: Reef NO
Origin: Indo-Pacific; East Africa to Samoa
Family: Balistidae
Lifespan: 8 – 12 years
Aquarist Experience Level: Intermediate to Advanced

Bluefin Angelfish (Centropyge multispinis)

The Bluefin Angelfish (Centropyge multispinis) known to tropical fish keeping enthusiasts as Bluefin Dwarf, Dusky Angelfish, Dusky Cherub, Black Angelfish, Brown Pygmy Angelfish, Many Spined Angelfish, and Multispined Angelfish is found in the northern and western Indian Ocean.

Its range extends from the eastern coast of Africa, including the Red Sea, and across the Indian Ocean (where it is common) to Sumatra and Thailand.

The Bluefin Angelfish can be encountered alone, in pairs, and in small harems among areas of rocky rubble along the outer reef slopes and coral rich reefs and lagoons of their range, at depths from 3 to over 90 feet where they feed on algae, small crustaceans, soft and stony corals, zooplankton, and detritus.

Bluefin Angelfish (Centropyge multispinis)

The Bluefin Angelfish has a blackish blue “dusky” body color marked with black vertical bars along he flanks and lighter blue marbling on the dorsal, caudal, and anal fins. The anal and caudal fins are outlined in a thin, bright sapphire blue color, and they have a dark blue to black splotch to the rear of the eye behind the gills.

Males and females exhibit minimal sexual dimorphism and are difficult to identify. They are protogynous hermaphrodites that have the ability to change sex from female to male when no male is present.

The Bluefin Angelfish is occasionally misidentified as the Coral Beauty Angelfish (Centropyge bispinosa) which have more orange colored bodies.

The Bluefin Angelfish can be housed in a mature FOWLR or reef aquarium of at least 70 gallon capacity with a fine coralline gravel or sandy substrate decorated with an abundance of live rock arranged into crevices, caves, and overhangs for them to graze and hide among and plenty of free swimming space.

Although Centropyge multispinis are considered reef safe, they are known to nip on soft and stony corals, clam mantles, feather dusters, and anemones.   They are less likely to consume SPS corals and will often ignore many corals entirely. The safest corals to keep with this species is bubble corals, disc anemone, hammer corals, star polyps, and small polyped stony corals.

Unless you plan to breed a pair, only one Bluefin Angelfish should be housed per tank.

Celebrated for their peaceful temperament, Centropyge multispinis tend to get along well with a variety of fish and invertebrates. Some suitable tankmates include Blennies, Yellow Clown Goby (Gobiodon okinawae), Damselfish, Orchid Dottyback (Pseudochromis fridmani), Firefish Goby (Nemateleotris magnifica), Banggai Cardinalfish (Pterapogon kauderni), Hawkfish, Royal Gramma (Gramma loreto), Tangs, and Wrasses.

Avoid introducing larger Basses, Groupers, Lionfish, or Triggers that may harass or eat smaller species.

The Bluefin Angelfish (Centropyge multispinis) has not been bred in an aquarium environment.

In their natural habitat, dominant males are polygamous and reproduce with several females in small harems. Spawning usually occurs at dusk. The buoyant eggs are left to float in the water column as plankton until they hatch into larvae and eventually grow into juvenile fish.

The offspring are always born female. As they grow into adulthood, some individuals change sex to become males.

In their natural environment, Bluefin Angelfish feed on algae, small invertebrates, corals, and zooplankton. In an established aquarium environment with mature live rock, their diet should include fresh and frozen foods like brine shrimp, mysis shrimp, quality marine pellets, and occasional offerings of marine algae. Sea Veggies, Seaweed Salad, and Ocean Nutrition are all easy to use products that will keep them healthy.

The Bluefin Angelfish (Centropyge multispinis) is occasionally available to tropical fish keeping enthusiasts from waiting lists through a variety of wholesale and retail sources online and local tropical fish shops at the following approximate purchase sizes: Tiny: Up to 1″, Small: Over 1-1.5″, Small / Medium: Over 1.5-2″, Medium: Over 2-2.5″, Medium / Large: Over 2.5-3″, Large: Over 3-3.5″, Extra Large: Over 3.5-4″, Extra Extra Large: Over 4-4.5″, Show Size: Over 4.5″

Prices vary according to size and area of collection. For Sri Lanka specimens; prices start at
$ 69.99 for small, to over $155.00 for specimens 4″ and over.

Bluefin Angelfish (Centropyge multispinis)

Minimum Tank Size: 70 gallons
Aquarium Type: FOWLR or Reef
Care Level: Moderate
Temperament: Semi Aggressive
Aquarium Hardiness: Hardy
Water Conditions: 72-78° F, dKH 8-12, pH 8.1-8.4, sg 1.020-1.025
Max. Size: 6″
Color Form: Black, Brown, Blue
Diet: Omnivore
Compatibility: Reef Ok with Caution
Origin: northern and western Indian Ocean
Family: Pomacanthidae
Lifespan: Up to 15 years
Aquarist Experience Level: Intermediate

Tiger Nassarius Snail (Babylonia spirata)

The Tiger Nassarius Snail (Babylonia spirata) known to tropical fish keeping enthusiasts as the Babylonian snail, Leopard nassarius snail, Lion snail, Ivory whelk snail, Spotted Babylon snail, Spiral Babylon, Butterscotch Nassarius, Puramutta chankm, Baigae snail, or Babylonia sp. is widely distributed in Indo-Pacific waters, particularly, from the Western Indian Ocean to Bali, Indonesia.   In India, Babylonia spirata has been recorded from the southeast and southwest coasts and the waters around Andaman and Nicobar Islands.

Babylonia spirata are carnivorous, opportunistic scavengers that prefer warm waters. They are mostly nocturnal and generally found in the silt or sandy benthic zones of the marine coastal waters of their range, at depths from 15 to over 100 ft, where they bury themselves within the substrate.

The Tiger Nassarius Snail (Babylonia spirata) is often misidentified as Babylonia areolata or Babylonia zeylanica which is almost identical but grows a bit larger (up to 3 inches). Also, in comparison to Babylonia spirata; Babylonia zeylanica’s shell has slightly impressed sutures and is mostly distributed in Indian and Sri Lankan waters. All three have similar behavior but the Spotted Babylon snail is larger than members of the Nassarius species.

Babylonia Spirata is one of the most beautiful snail species in the aquarium hobby.
It is also an edible snail that provides a valuable, high protein food source in Vietnam, Thailand, China and other countries. Their operculum is exported to foreign countries for medicines and perfumes, and their shells for the shell craft industry.

Tiger Nassarius Snail (Babylonia spirata)

The Tiger Nassarius Snail (Babylonia spirata) has a smooth, broad, ovoid white to yellowish colored shell with large orange to brown markings, with six regular spiral rows of whorls that have deep sutures with a sharp edge. They have a smooth columella with a large, posteriorly constricted ovate aperture and an operculum that they use to close their shell when stressed or disturbed by predators. They also have a large, elephant like proboscis that is used for breathing and smelling out prey and a very long, strong foot that they use to flip themselves over when upended.

Female Tiger Nassarius Snails are slightly larger and heavier than males. Males can be determined externally by the presence of a male organ on the right side of the head, just behind the right tentacle. Females possess a pedal gland on the ventral side of the foot, to shape and harden the egg capsule.

A single large Babylon spirata requires a well established FOWLR or reef tank of at least 20 gallon capacity with live rock and a silt or fine sandy substrate deep enough for them to burrow into.   These hardy snails make an excellent cleanup crew for eating detritus, decaying organics, fish waste and leftover meaty foods like Mysis shrimp in the aquarium.   Generally, 1 or 2 snails are recommended per 5 gallons to keep the aquarium substrate clean and aerated.

Except for Tridachnea clams, Leopard nassarius snails are completely reef safe and will not pester corals or inverts however, if you have too many snails or there are not enough leftovers and naturally occurring foods in the system, they may attack other snails.  Because they are large snails, they have a tendency to bulldoze under the substrate while feeding and could rearrange unsecured corals in a reef tank.

The Tiger Nassarius Snail is not an aggressive species and is compatible with most tankmates including full grown Fighting Conch Snails, Cerith snails, Astrea Snails, Mexican turbo snails, Trochus snails, etc. and shrimp like Sexy shrimp, Red Fire shrimp (Lysmata debelius), Peppermint shrimp (Lysmata wurdemanni) or Skunk Cleaner (Lysmata amboinensis).

Avoid keeping them with aggressive species like large aggressive fish, the Coral Banded shrimp, most crab species, and all hermit crabs including the Halloween Hermit Crab, Blue Leg Hermit Crab, etc. which will try to kill them for their shell.

The primarily nocturnal Tiger Nassarius Snail will usually bury themselves in the substrate with only the proboscis showing during the day unless they smell any dead organic matter. They will then quickly emerge from the substrate to feed.

Although they are carnivores, they are not active predators and prefer to feed on dead animal matter.

Water temperature is the most important factor when keeping Tiger Nassarius Snails. They prefer a warmer water temperature between 79 to 86°F which affects their growth rate, survival rate, hatch rate, incubation period, larval feeding behavior, larval growth, etc.   This species does not tolerate temperatures that are either too low or too hot.

The Tiger Nassarius Snail has been bred in captivity but it is extremely difficult, the main problem is the survivability of the larvae due to its specific diet requirements.

Babylonia spirata is gonochoristic with internal fertilization. Spawning can occur during daylight or night time hours. Throughout the spawning period, the females do not eat, even when food is placed near them.

The mating process begins when a mature female positions herself to the right side of the male and mounts the male. Mating continues for 2 to 3 hours during which time the pair remain immobile. After mating the male moves off leaving the female in an inactive stage for some time.

After fertilization is complete the female will deposit anywhere from 35 to 40 jelly like egg capsules to the substratum, with each capsule containing 350 to 800 eggs. The transparent egg capsules harden on contact with seawater and are held in an erect position until the larvae hatch out. It takes about 5 to 10 minutes for the female to release a single egg capsule.

About 7 to 8 days after spawning, the eggs hatch out into phototaxis larvae or veligers which are light sensitive and immediately start swimming to the surface to start their planktonic phase. For the next 10 days, the veligers feed on phytoplankton until they become juveniles.

Metamorphosis occurs from veligers to juveniles when their shell length reaches 1.7 mm. After settling to the substrate, the planktonic life changes and they become carnivores.

Juvenile tank bred snails at the crawling stage can be fed baby brine shrimp for the first two weeks, followed by frozen adult brine shrimp, shrimp pellets, egg yolk, egg albumin, tubifex worms, rotifers, etc.   After 4 to 5 weeks the baby snails are able to eat small pieces of fish.   They grow at a fast rate and attain maximum size within 2 to 3 years.

In their natural habitat, Babylon spirata is a scavenging carnivore that feeds mainly on dead organic and decayed animal matter present in the substratum where they live.

In an established aquarium environment with a sufficiently deep silt or fine sand substrate they will eat detritus, leftover food, etc. however, if there is not enough leftovers or naturally occuring food in the tank they may attack other snails in the system.

Supplement their diet with meaty foods such as fresh or frozen brine or mysis shrimp, small pieces of fish and seafood, freeze dried larvae, meats of clam, mussels, oysters, and prawns, etc. Feeding two to three times a week is recommended.

The Tiger Nassarius Snail (Babylonia spirata) is imported from the Indo Pacific and is available to tropical fish keeping enthusiasts from a variety of online retailers at approximate purchase sizes: 1″ to 2” at prices from $17.99 to $ 24.99 or more.

Tiger Nassarius Snail (Babylonia spirata)

Minimum Tank Size: 20 gallons
Aquarium Type: Established Reef or FOWLR
Care Level: Easy
Temperament: Peaceful
Aquarium Hardiness: Hardy
Water Conditions: 79-86° F, dKH 8-12, pH 8.1-8.4, sg 1.021-1.025
Max. Size: 1.7 – 2.2″
Color Form: White, Yellowish, Orange, Brown,
Diet: Carnivore
Compatibility: Reef Compatible
Origin: Indo-West Pacific
Family: Babyloniidae
Lifespan: 4 – 5 years
Aquarist Experience Level: Intermediate

Maculated Ivory Whelk (Babylonia areolata)

The Maculated Ivory Whelk (Babylonia areolata) known to tropical fish keeping enthusiasts as the Spotted Babylon is distributed throughout Indo-West Pacific and Southwest Atlantic waters. Its range extends from Sri Lanka and the Nicobar Islands through the Gulf of Siam, along the Vietnamese and Chinese coasts to Taiwan where it is found in intertidal areas at the mouth of the Baoli River.

The Maculated Ivory Whelk or Spotted Babylon snail (Babylonia areolata) is often erroneously referred to as the Leopard or Tiger Nassarius snail (Babylonia sp.). Both have similar behavior but the Spotted Babylon snail is larger than members of the Nassarius species.

The Maculated Ivory Whelk is found in brackish, muddy sand areas of littoral regions at depths from 16 to 32 feet usually burrowed in the substrate where they scavenge for decaying organics and detritus. Babylonia areolata are a nocturnal species that consume about as much food as a dozen Nassarius vibex.

Maculated Ivory Whelk (Babylonia areolata)

The Spotted Babylon Snail has a slender buccinoid shell with three broadly separated rows of dark brown spots over a white to yellowish cream colored shell. The color of the live animal is yellow.

Maculated Ivory Whelk (Babylonia areolata)

Babylonia areolata is an edible snail that is a commercially aquacultured and is an important species to tropical fish keeping enthusiasts as well as the cuisine of Vietnam, Thailand, and China among others.

The Maculated Ivory Whelk is best housed in a well established FOWLR or reef tank with a thick sandy substrate for them to bury themselves in. They thrive in aquariums of any size that house large, messy eating species that require supplemental feedings of meaty foods and leave enough scraps for the snail to eat.

Babylonia areolata bury themselves in the sand until they sense food. Once they sense food, they quickly uncover themselves to consume any available food in the tank and then rebury until they sense the next meal.

Being nocturnal animals they are normally visible later in the day or in the evening after the lights are turned off on the display.

Although Maculated Ivory Welk are reported to prey on other snails and bivalves such as small clams, they are generally considered a beneficial species that help clean and aerate the sandy substrate in the tank and scavenge for uneaten food and decaying organics.   It is best to avoid this snail if housing Tridacna spp clams in a reef aquarium.

Babylonia areolata is a non-broadcast spawner that is widely aquacultured as a food source. Their life cycle does not include a free-swimming (trocophore) larval stage found in many marine annelids and mollusks.

All Babylon Snails are scavenging omnivores that will consume uneaten food, decaying organics, and detritus. In an aquarium environment, they will eat a variety of fresh and frozen high quality meaty foods like fresh fish, shrimp, or krill in addition to what they feed on from the substrate in the tank.

The Maculated Ivory Whelk (Babylonia areolata) is imported from the Indo Pacific and is available to tropical fish keeping enthusiasts from a variety of online retailers at an approximate purchase size: 1″ to 2” and prices from $17.99 to $ 24.99.

Maculated Ivory Whelk (Babylonia areolata)

Minimum Tank Size: 10 gallons
Aquarium Type: Established Reef or FOWLR
Care Level: Easy
Temperament: Peaceful
Aquarium Hardiness: Hardy
Water Conditions: 72-78° F, dKH 8-12, pH 8.1-8.4, sg 1.023-1.025
Max. Size: 3″
Color Form: White, Brown, Yellow
Diet: Omnivore/detritivore
Compatibility: Reef Compatible
Origin: Indo-West Pacific
Family: Babyloniidae
Lifespan: 1 – 4 years
Aquarist Experience Level: Intermediate

Margarita Snail (Margarites pupillus)

The Margarita Snail (Margarites pupillus) known to tropical fish keeping enthusiasts as the Puppet Margarite or Little Margarite is a marine turban snail species that is found from the Bering Sea to Southern California.

Margarita Snails are normally found among rocky shorelines and kelp beds of their range at depths from the low intertidal zone to over 325 feet where they are often collected off the Large Brown Kelp (Allium fimbriatum).

Margarites pupillus are not natural diggers. They are constantly on the move and are considered nocturnal animals, with the peak of their activity beginning at dusk.

Substantial numbers of Margarita Snails can typically found on the upper surfaces of Allium fimbriatum rather than on the undersides of the kelp. Apparently the kelp provides the Margarita Snails a safe haven from benthic predators that prey on them from below, especially crabs.

Although Margarita Snails are frequently found together in large numbers, they are not necessarily social animals. They are a docile, solitary, non aggressive, species that do not seem to associate with conspecifics unless they decide to mate.

Margarita Snail (Margarites pupillus)

Margarites pupillus are small marine mollusks that seldom exceed 1 inch in length.  True

Margarita Snail (Margarites pupillus)

Margarita Snails have a smooth, silvery, pink to orange colored conical formed shell that is narrowly umbilicated and consists of 4 to 5 whorls with a flat base. The opening to the shell is circular with an arched columella.

Margarita snails are often covered with algae that makes it nearly impossible to see the natural color of their shells. The algal growth on the shell provides a natural camouflage for predator avoidance.

Margarita snails are gonochoric (separate male and female individuals), without any external sexual dimorphism.

Unlike many marine snails that can retreat into their shell and close it with an operculum, the Margarita Snail does not have a proper defensive mechanism.   Instead, they rapidly flick their shells back and forth to shake off a predator or simply try to outrun the predator.   Their top speed is about 4 inches/min which in a snail’s world is pretty quick.

The Margarita Snail is completely reef safe and is best housed in a well established reef aquarium with a smooth gravel or stony substrate, plenty of diatoms and algae encrusted live rock arranged into hiding places, and sufficient room for them to roam and graze. The snails are too small to damage any decor in a reef tank and will not bother corals.

Margarita Snails are non-aggressive, docile by nature, and do well in a FOWLR tank with peaceful tank mates like dwarf shrimp and small, non carnivorous fish.

Good tankmates include Sexy Shrimp, Pederson Cleaner Shrimps, Red Fire shrimp (Lysmata debelius), Peppermint shrimp (Lysmata wurdemanni) or Skunk Cleaner (Lysmata amboinensis), Bumble Bee Snail, Fighting Conch Snail, Cerith snails, Trochus Snails, etc.

Avoid keeping them with large and/or aggressive fish, Coral banded shrimp, most crab species, and all species of hermit crabs including; the Halloween Hermit Crab, Blue Leg Hermit Crab, etc.

Like the Astraea Turbo Snail (Lithopoma tectum); the Margarita Snail (Margarites pupillus) has a ravenous appetite for algae which makes them excellent candidates for a tank clean up crew.   In the aquarium, they are great scavengers that thrive on brown algae, Green spot algae, debris, and other fish waste.

The Margarita Snail is not especially easy to keep. They are very sensitive to changes in water values, especially temperature.

In addition to pristine water quality and a constant food source, they require a water temperature between 59–68°F, calcium concentrations in the range of 400 to 450 ppm, and magnesium between 1250 and 1350. An excellent filtration system, protein skimmer, and chiller system is recommended to keep this species.

Though there have been a few reports of successfully breeding them, Margarita snails do not generally reproduce in an aquarium environment.

Males and females cannot be distinguished by size or any other external features. Margarita snails are broadcast spawners. The females do not lay eggs on the substrate; instead they release millions of ufertilized eggs (oocytes) into the water column as the males release their semen to fertilize them. Spawning lasts anywhere from 5 to 20 minutes. Veligers of Margarita snails hatch prior to torsion. Their shell secretion starts just before hatching. Initially, the shell is soft, flexible, and crumpled easily prior to and during torsion (72 hr) but becomes rigid soon afterward.

In an aquarium, the water clouds up until the corals and other filter feeders eat the minute eggs. Currently, no data exists on how long it takes the eggs to hatch and metamorphose into the crawling stage.

In their natural environment, the Margarita Snail feeds on macroscopic algae and detrital elements. Their primary food is diatoms but they also eat unidentified filamentous red algae, sponge spicules, filamentous brown algae, remains of hydroids, bryozoans, and filamentous green algae. In an established aquarium environment, they feed on the algae in the tank along with any leftover shrimp or fish foods, such as pills, flakes, pellets, algae/spirulina wafers, frozen foods, etc.

The Margarita Snail (Margarites pupillus) is a relatively common saltwater species that can be purchased from online retailers, wholesalers, and transhippers at reasonable prices. They are often sold online to tropical fish keeping enthusiasts as members of “cleanup crews” for reef tanks. Currently, the pet industry completely depends on wild caught species.

Margarita Snail (Margarites pupillus)

Minimum Tank Size: 10 gallons
Aquarium Type: Established Reef or FOWLR
Care Level: Difficult
Temperament: Peaceful
Aquarium Hardiness: Not Hardy
Water Conditions: 59–68°F, dKH 8 to 12, pH 8.1-8.4, sg 1.021-1.025
Max. Size: 1″
Color Form: Orange, White, Pearl-Brown, Lusterless, Pink
Diet: Omnivore/detritivore
Compatibility: Reef Compatible
Origin: Bering Sea to Southern California
Family: Margaritidae
Lifespan: 1 – 4 years
Aquarist Experience Level: Expert

West Australia Dragonet (Synchiropus occidentalis)

The West Australia Dragonet (Synchiropus occidentalis) known to tropical fish keeping enthusiasts as the West Australian Mandarin Dragonet, or Occidentalis Dragonet is a rare subspecies of Synchiropus picturatus distributed from the Monte Bellos Islands northwards to the Timor Sea.

Synchiropus occidentalis‘ limited distribution Southeast of Elphik’s Knob, the northeastern end of Rosemary Island, Dampier Islands and its reclusive habits around Western Australia make sightings and captive specimens a rare event.

The West Australia dragonet is a peaceful, reclusive species that has been encountered alone, in pairs, and in at least one rare case interbreeding with Synchiropus picturatus in very shallow water no deeper than 7 feet.

The West Australia dragonet hide so deeply in the piles of rock ruble and among Acropora corals that they are seldom seen by divers or collectors, making them even a rarer aquisition by tropical fish keeping enthusiasts.

West Australia Dragonet (Synchiropus occidentalis)

The West Australia Dragonet has an almost mustard green to orange yellow body color with large irregular dark psychedelia like spots edged in greenish blue, orange and black forming rings. They are distinguished by having numerous fine blue green to teal colored spots all over the body, including the dots within the rings, the black areas on the fins, and additional blue spots and greenish blue lines across the head.

Synchiropus occidentalis has two parallel diagonal white vertical stripes that run across each eye, similar to six-line wrasses.

West Australia Dragonet (Synchiropus occidentalis)

The large target patterns on the Western Australia Mandarin Dragonet are a little larger and more irregular than its Indo-Pacific counterpart; with the line work turning to squiggles and spots.

The distinctive markings on their head makes them easily distinguishable from their congeners.

Although not much is known about Synchiropus occidentalis husbandry, they should have the same basic requirements that Synchiropus picturatus receive.

A single Occidentalis Dragonet can be housed in a mature 30 gallon FOWLR or reef tank with a thick live sand substrate and plenty of active live rock for them to feed on and hide among. It is believed that in order to keep a mated pair, if one could be obtained, at least a 60 gallon capacity tank packed with plenty of mature live rock for the fish to feed on and hide among is required.

Because the West Australia Dragonet lives naturally in moderately shallow currents; they require an oversized filtration system (10 to 20 times the tank volume) to provide current flow and strong oxygenation needed in their tank. Changing 20% to 30% of the water volume each month to keep Nitrate levels below 50mg/L is also recommended.

Mature live rock populated with copepods is an essential food source for Dragonets so at least 75 pounds of live rock is recommended to adequately feed a single individual.

When enough populated live rock is not provided to feed each individual, dragonets will often eat all the copepods on the rock and slowly starve to death.

The West Australia Dragonet in a FOWLR aquarium should get along well with other non aggressive species of similar size and temperament such as the Coral Beauty, Firefish, Pajama Cardinal, etc.

Because males are often slightly territorial, they should not be kept in groups with their own kind unless housed in very large tanks.

Synchiropus occidentalis are pelagic spawners that have not yet been bred in an aquarium environment, however, because they been observed interbreeding in at least one instance with Synchiropus picturatus, tropical fish keeping enthusiasts are eagerly awaiting the availability of a few pairs to breed them in the same manner.

The bad news is that due to the remote collecting location of the West Australia dragonet they may well cost upwards of one thousand dollars a piece by the time the handful of specimens reach our market.

The Western Australian Mandarin Dragonet feed throughout the day on small crustaceans and benthic invertebrates that they find in the substrate. Their mixed diet includes fish eggs, harpacticoid copepods, polychaete worms, small gastropods, gammaridean amphipods, and ostracods.

In an aquarium environment with adequate amounts of copepod populated live rock the should be acclimated to eating aquarium fare such as frozen copepods, vitamin enriched brine shrimp, cyclops, live black worms, and small Mysis shrimp.   A turkey baster or syringe can be used to target feed small portions directly onto the live rock or near the fish several times a day.

Most successful tropical fish keeping enthusiasts cultivate robust populations of copepods to feed their Picturesque Dragonets by attaching a refugium to the sump in the tank. A mass of macroalgae such as chaetomorpha in the refugium allows the copepods to breed and multiply without being preyed on. Detritus and microfauna produced by the macroalgae provide shelter and food for the copepods. Robust copepod populations can also be cultivated by allowing the tank with ample live rock to mature for at least six months or so before adding fish.

The West Australia Dragonet (Synchiropus occidentalis) is an exceptionally rare dragonet species that is one of the hardest fish to find and catch.   They are practically never available to tropical fish keeping enthusiasts due to its distribution being well outside typical collecting areas of marine ornamental fish.   The total known area of collection is only 75 miles apart which is why they are so extremely rare and expensive.

West Australia Dragonet (Synchiropus occidentalis)

Minimum Tank Size: 30 gallon (60 gallons for pairs)
Aquarium Type: Reef or FOLR
Care Level: Difficult
Temperament: Peaceful
Aquarium Hardiness: Hardy when acclimated
Water Conditions: 75-82° F, dKH 8 – 12°, pH 8.1–8.4, sg 1.023-1.025
Max size: 3″
Color Form: Blue, Black, Green, Orange,
Diet: Carnivore
Compatibility: Reef Safe
Origin: Monte Bellos Islands northwards to the Timor Sea
Family: Callionymidae
Lifespan: 5 – 15 years
Aquarist Experience Level: Expert

Picturesque Dragonet (Synchiropus picturatus)

The Picturesque Dragonet (Synchiropus picturatus) known to tropical fish keeping enthusiasts as the , Picture Dragonet, Spotted Mandarin, Spotted Mandarinfish, Target Mandarin, Psychedelic Mandarinfish, and Psychedelic Fish is native to the Western Pacific Ocean throughout Philippine, South East Asian, Indonesian, and northwest Australian seas.

The Picturesque Dragonet is a shy, secretive species normally encountered alone, in pairs and occasionally in loose groups on the sandy bottoms of the shallow sheltered reefs of their range, sheltering among rubble rock below living corals at depths up to 650 feet.

The Target Mandarin is a peaceful, slow moving species that prefers faster moving water. Like the Mandarin Goby (Synchiropus splendidus), the Picturesque Dragonet has no scales. They have a thick, bitter tasting, unpleasant smelling mucous coating on their skin that protects them from predators and diseases.

Although they have a body shape that is similar to that of a goby, the Synchiropus picturatus is really a Dragonet.

Picturesque Dragonet (Synchiropus picturatus)

Picturesque Dragonets are brilliantly colored with broad, depressed heads, yellow to red eyes with black pupils, and large pelvic fins (frequently mistaken for pectoral fins) that are used to “walk” on the seafloor. They have a green to brownish colored body color with several large, blue, orange, and black spots that resemble targets randomly arranged on the body. Although the dorsal fins can have broad wavy lines or “targets” on them, the pectoral, anal and part of the caudal fins are mostly transparent.

Males have a large, tall, dorsal fin and are noticeably larger than females. Females are smaller, stockier, and have a more rounded abdomen than males.

Synchiropus picturatus and the closely related Synchiropus splendidus are the only two vertebrates known to have blue cellular pigment coloring.

A single Picturesque Dragonet can be housed in a mature 30 gallon FOWLR or reef tank with a thick live sand substrate and plenty of active live rock for them to feed on and hide among. In order to keep a mated pair, at least a 60 gallon capacity tank packed with plenty of mature live rock for the fish to feed on and hide among is required.

Because the Picturesque Dragonet lives naturally in moderate currents; they require an oversized filtration system (10 to 20 times the tank volume) to provide the current flow and strong oxygenation needed in an aquarium environment. Plan on changing 20% to 30% of the water volume each month to keep Nitrate levels below 50mg/L.

Mature live rock populated with copepods is an essential food source for the Picturesque Dragonet. At least 75 pounds of live rock is recommended to adequately feed a single Dragonet.

When enough populated live rock is not provided to feed each individual, the fish will often eat all the copepods on the rock and eventually starve to death.

For that reason, adding a Target Mandarin to a new setup without an established food supply is highly discouraged.

Spotted Mandarinfish in a FOWLR aquarium usually get along well with other non aggressive species of similar size and temperament such as the Coral Beauty, Firefish, Pajama Cardinal, etc.

Because the males are slightly territorial, they should not be kept in groups with their own kind unless housed in very large tanks.

Picturesque Dragonets are pelagic spawners that have been successfully spawned in an aquarium environment. Because Synchiropus picturatus larvae are among the smallest ever recorded at hatching, they are extremely difficult to raise into adulthood.

In anticipation of the spawn, small groups of up to five male and female gobies will gather up after sunset. A single male, usually the largest in the group will pair up with an available female to spawn. Spawning pairs will rise towards the surface in close contact with each other to release clutches of 12 to 205 small, spherical, colorless, buoyant, 0.7 to 0.8 mm dia. eggs and sperm for external fertilization. The males create a funnel with their anal fin when releasing the sperm to insure successful fertilization. During the spawning ritual, males frequently mate several times during the night with multiple females, whereas the females can only spawn once per night. Because there seems to be a sexual preference by the females for larger males, the larger and stronger males mate more frequently.

Synchiropus picturatus larvae have a short incubation time and develop quickly. The clumped together egg masses slowly break apart in the water column and about 36 hours after fertilization, the eyes become pigmented and the mouth becomes developed. After 8 to 11 days the fins become developed and the tiny larvae are active and feeding. After 12 to 14 days, the juveniles look like the adults with a large head and a triangular shaped body. In 18 to 21 days, the body turns a dark orange brown color with greenish banding and the dorsal spines can be observed. The adult color pattern does not develop until the second month when the fish are 10 to 15 mm long.

Picturesque Dragonets breed throughout the year with spawning occurring at weekly intervals for several months.

In their natural habitat, Picturesque Dragonets feed throughout the day on small crustaceans and benthic invertebrates that they find in the substrate. Their mixed diet includes fish eggs, harpacticoid copepods, polychaete worms, small gastropods, gammaridean amphipods, and ostracods.

In an aquarium environment Synchiropus picturatus have specific dietary requirements which is why many tropical fish keeping enthusiasts considered them difficult to keep. Some individuals refuse to eat anything but live amphiopods and copepods but if they can be successfully acclimated to eating aquarium fare such as frozen copepods, vitamin enriched brine shrimp, cyclops, live black worms, and small mysis shrimp; the dragonets are hardy and resistant to disease. A turkey baster or syringe can be used to target feed small portions directly onto the live rock or near the fish several times a day.

Most successful tropical fish keeping enthusiasts cultivate robust populations of copepods to feed their Picturesque Dragonets by attaching a refugium to the sump in the tank. A mass of macroalgae such as chaetomorpha in the refugium allows the copepods to breed and multiply without being preyed on. Detritus and microfauna produced by the macroalgae provide shelter and food for the copepods. Robust copepod populations can also be cultivated by allowing the tank with ample live rock to mature for at least six months or so before adding fish.

The Picturesque Dragonet (Synchiropus picturatus) is readily available to tropical fish keeping enthusiasts as wild caught and aquacultured specimens from a variety of online retailers, wholesalers, and transhippers.   Prices for approximate purchase sizes Small: 1″ to 1-1/2″; Medium: 1-1/2″ to 2-1/4″; Large: 2-1/4″ to 3″ vary from $33.00 to $46.00, depending on size and seller.

Picturesque Dragonet (Synchiropus picturatus)

Minimum Tank Size: 30 gallon (60 gallons for pairs)
Aquarium Type: Reef or FOLR
Care Level: Difficult
Temperament: Peaceful
Aquarium Hardiness: Hardy when acclimated
Water Conditions: 75-82° F, dKH 8 – 12°, pH 8.1–8.4, sg 1.023-1.025
Max size: 3″
Color Form: Blue, Black, Green, Orange,
Diet: Carnivore
Compatibility: Reef Safe
Origin: Philippine, South East Asian, Indonesian, and northwest Australian seas.
Family: Callionymidae
Lifespan: 5 – 15 years
Aquarist Experience Level: Intermediate/Expert

The Mandarin Goby (Synchiropus splen

Mandarin Goby (Synchiropus splendidus)

didus) known by various names to tropical fish keeping enthusiasts such as the Mandarinfish, Mandarin, Mandarin Dragonet, Striped Mandarin Fish, Striped Dragonet, Green Mandarin, and Psychedelic Goby is native to the Western Pacific Ocean including the Coral Triangle, Australia’s Great Barrier Reef, Hong Kong, Micronesia, New Caledonia, Taiwan, Japan, and Palau. Its range extends from the Ryukyu Islands south to the warmer waters of southern Australia.

The Mandarin Goby can be encountered alone, in pairs, but usually in small groups spread over small areas on the silty bottoms of the protected shallow lagoons and coral reefs of their range among corals and rubble, at depths from 3 to 60 feet, where they feed on small crustaceans and other animals found in the substrate.

The Mandarin Goby is a relatively peaceful, slow moving species that prefers slow moving water. Instead of scales, they have a thick, bitter tasting, unpleasant smelling mucous coating on their skin that protects them from predators and diseases.

Although they have a body shape that is similar to that of a goby, the Mandarin Goby is really a Dragonet.

Mandarin Goby (Synchiropus splendidus)

Synchiropus splendidus are brilliantly colored and have a broad, depressed head with red eyes and black pupils. They have a vibrant bright blue body color with broad, swirly, orange, red, and yellow stripes and a blueish green face with bold blue stripes. They have large pelvic fins that are often mistaken for pectoral fins, that are used for “walking” on the seafloor. Their pectoral fins are mostly transparent as are the anal fins and part of the tail. The rest of the fins are striped a vibrant orange and blue. Males are larger than females and have a large, tall, blue and orange striped dorsal fin. Synchiropus splendidus and the closely related Synchiropus picturatus are the only two vertebrates known to have a blue cellular pigment coloring.

Mandarin Goby (Synchiropus splendidus)

Different varieties exhibit different markings and colors. The red mandarin is the same species but the pelvic fins, normally orange, are red. The Spotted Mandarin has black, pink, and blue spots on a light gray green body. Rare individuals have a bright red brown body color and in some extremely rare cases, the entire fish is red with black stripes.

A single Mandarin Goby can be housed in a mature 30 gallon FOWLR or reef tank with a thick live sand substrate and plenty of active live rock for them to feed on and hide among. In order to keep a mated pair, at least a 60 gallon capacity tank packed with plenty of mature live rock for the fish to feed on and hide among is required.

Mature live rock populated with copepods is an essential food source for the Mandarin Goby.   At least 75 pounds of live rock is recommended to house one Dragonet.

When enough live rock is not provided for each individual, the fish will eat all the copepods on the rock and usually starve to death.

For that reason, adding a Mandarin Goby to a new setup without an established food supply is highly discouraged.

Mandarinfish in a FOWLR aquarium usually get along well with other non aggressive species of similar size and temperament such as the Coral Beauty, Firefish, Pajama Cardinal, etc.

Because the males are highly territorial, they cannot be kept in groups with their own kind.

Although Mandarin Goby larvae are among the smallest ever recorded at hatching, they have been bred in an aquarium environment.

Mandarin Gobies are pelagic spawners. In anticipation of the spawn, small groups of up to five male and female gobies will gather up after sunset.   A single male, usually the largest in the group will pair up with an available female to spawn. Spawning pairs will rise towards the surface in close contact with each other to release clutches of 12 to 205 small, colorless, spherical and pelagic 0.7 to 0.8 mm dia. eggs and sperm for external fertilization. The males create a funnel with their anal fin when releasing the sperm to insure successful fertilization. During the spawning ritual, males frequently mate several times during the night with multiple females, whereas the females can only spawn once per night. Because there seems to be a sexual preference by the females for larger males, the larger and stronger males mate more frequently.

Synchiropus splendidus larvae have a short incubation time and develop quickly. As the clumped together egg masses slowly break apart in the water column; about 36 hours after fertilization, the eyes become pigmented and the mouth becomes developed. After 8 to 11 days the fins become developed and the tiny larvae are active and feeding. After 12 to 14 days, the juveniles look like the adults with a large head and a triangular shaped body. In 18 to 21 days, the body turns a dark orange brown color with greenish banding and the dorsal spines can be observed. The adult color pattern does not develop until the second month when the fish are 10 to 15 mm. long.

Mandarin Gobies breed throughout the year with spawning occurring at weekly intervals for several months. They can double their populations in less than 15 months.

In their natural habitat, Mandarin Gobies feed throughout the day on small crustaceans and invertebrates that they find in the substrate. They have a mixed diet that includes fish eggs, harpacticoid copepods, polychaete worms, small gastropods, gammaridean amphipods, and ostracods.

In an aquarium environment Synchiropus splendidus have specific dietary requirements which is why many tropical fish keeping enthusiasts considered them difficult to keep.    Some individuals refuse to eat anything but live amphiopods and copepods but if they can be successfully acclimated to eating aquarium fare such as frozen copepods, baby brine shrimp, cyclops, and small mysis shrimp they are hardy and resistant to disease. A turkey baster or syringe can be used to target feed small portions directly onto the live rock or near the fish several times a day.

Most successful tropical fish keeping enthusiasts cultivate robust populations of copepods to feed their Mandarin Gobies by attaching a refugium to the sump in the tank. A mass of macroalgae such as chaetomorpha in the refugium allows the copepods to breed and multiply without being preyed on. Detritus and microfauna produced by the macroalgae provide shelter and food for the copepods. Robust copepod populations can also be cultivated by allowing the tank with ample live rock to mature for at least six months or so before adding fish.

The Mandarin Goby (Synchiropus splendidus) is readily available to tropical fish keeping enthusiasts as wild caught and aquacultured specimens from online retailers, wholesalers, and transhippers. Prices for approximate purchase sizes Small: 1″ to 1-1/2″; Medium: 1-1/2″ to 2-1/4″; Large: 2-1/4″ to 3″ vary from $ 29.99 for small specimens to $ 39.99 for large.

Mandarin Goby (Synchiropus splendidus)

Minimum Tank Size: 30 gallon (60 gallons for pairs)
Aquarium Type: Reef or FOLR
Care Level: Difficult
Temperament: Peaceful
Aquarium Hardiness: Hardy when acclimated
Water Conditions: 75-81° F, dKH 8 – 12°, pH 8.1–8.4, sg 1.023-1.025
Max size: 3.5″
Color Form: Blue, Black, Green, Orange, Red, Yellow
Diet: Carnivore
Compatibility: Reef Safe
Origin: Western Pacific Ocean; Ryukyu Islands to southern Australia.
Family: Callionymidae
Lifespan: 5 – 20 years
Aquarist Experience Level: Intermediate/Expert

Sharknose Goby (Elacatinus evelynae)

The Sharknose Goby (Elacatinus evelynae) known to tropical fish keeping enthusiasts as the Caribbean Cleaner Goby or Caribbean Cleaning Goby is native to Western Atlantic waters from the Bahamas and the Lesser Antilles, to the northern coast of South America, as well as the Antilles and western Caribbean.

The Sharknose Goby is a peaceful cleaner fish species that is usually encountered in pairs in the crystal clear clean water coral reefs of their range, among coral heads at depths from 3 feet to over 173 feet.

Because Elacatinus evelynae are not strong swimmers, they need textured surfaces like those on Brain Coral (Colpophyllia natans) heads, large polyps like the Great Star Coral (Montastraea), Mustard Hill Coral (Porites astreoides), and Lettuce Coral (Agaricia agaricites) to maintain a general position on their “cleaning stations” and endure the strong Ocean currents, tides, and swells found in their habitat.

It is crucial for the Sharknose Goby to maintain a visible position in the current so the fish that they clean ectoparasites from can easily find them.

Sharknose Goby (Elacatinus evelynae)

Similar to the Neon Goby (Elacatinus oceanops), the Sharknose Goby (Elacatinus evelynae) has a thin, elongated body shape with two brilliant neon blue horizontal stripes and three black horizontal stripes on the body that run to the end of the caudal fin, white to silver underneath the lower black stripes, and light pink hues around and under the gills. Above the black horizontal stripes, a bright yellow stripe on top of and in front of each eye joins to form a V at the snout. The split dorsal, rounded pectoral, anterior, and outer edge of the caudal fin are all transparent.

A single or mated pair of Sharknose Gobies can be housed in a well established community or reef tank of at least 10 gallon capacity with a sandy or fine coralline gravel substrate and plenty of aged live rock arranged into caves, crevices, and overhangs for them to hide among. Excellent filtration, protein skimming and regular water changes are important to remove nitrates from the tank.

The Sharknose Goby is a peaceful species that feeds on ectoparasites that can harm other fish housed in the aquarium. They are a natural cleaner fish that seldom become aggressive with other fish, however, they are territorial and will become assertive towards their own kind unless they are a mated pair.   Elacatinus evelynae is completely reef safe and will not harm other peaceful fish, corals, or invertebrates.

Although a single Sharknose Goby can be easily housed in a 10 gallon aquarium; a tank of at least 30 gallon capacity generously decorated with mature live rock is recommended to keep mated pairs and small groups of 6 to 8 individuals.

The Caribbean Cleaning Goby has been bred in an aquarium environment, however, they do not produce eggs unless conditions are optimal.

The Sharknose Goby is a monogamous species that is usually found in pairs among coral heads.

Mated pairs aggressively protect their territory and each other from potential suitors. The males guard the eggs and chase away potential suitors while the females chase away potential female partners.

Under optimal conditions in an aquarium environment with little to no fluctuations in salinity or temperature, the female will lay 500 to 800 eggs in a small cave or crevice every 10 days or so.   The male protects and aerates the eggs until they hatch into tiny larvae which takes six to nine days at temperatures between 75 to 81 degrees F.    During this period, both parents aggressively defend the nest and eggs from intrusions.   After the larvae hatch out, the tiny larvae are usually eaten by other fish or sucked into the filter before they ever make it into adulthood.

Many successful breeders transfer the eggs or larvae into a well oxygenated 20 gallon tank and perform regular water changes as the larvae grow out.    The larvae can be fed tiny copepods or rotifers during the grow out period and will spend about 25 to 28 days as larvae until metamorphosis into identifiable Sharknose Gobies.

In their natural environment, the Sharknose Goby is a cleaner fish that feeds on ectoparasites and dead skin found on other fish species as well as sponges, coral polyps, sea squirts, zooplankton, and free living copepods.

In an aquarium environment they do well on a carnivore diet with small bits of meaty foods such as shrimp, fish, worms, and copepods found in the sand.   They will accept frozen carnivore foods, live brine shrimp and occasionally carnivore flakes or pellets as a supplement.    Feeding several times a day is recommended in a community aquarium.   If kept in a reef aquarium, the Sharknose Goby should only be fed once per day.

The Sharknose Goby (Elacatinus evelynae) is readily available to tropical fish keeping enthusiasts mostly as captive bred specimens from a variety of of online retailers at a purchase size of 1″ to 2″ at current prices around $ 26.99.

Sharknose Goby (Elacatinus evelynae)

Minimum Tank Size: 10 gallon
Aquarium Type: Reef or FOLR
Care Level: Easy
Temperament: Peaceful
Aquarium Hardiness: Hardy
Water Conditions: 75-82° F, dKH 8 – 12°, pH 8.1–8.4, sg 1.023-1.025
Max size: 2″
Color Form: Blue, Black, Yellow
Diet: Carnivore
Compatibility: Reef Safe
Origin: West Atlantic, Antilles and western Caribbean
Family: Gobiidae
Lifespan: 5 – 10 years
Aquarist Experience Level: Intermediate

Neon Goby (Elacatinus oceanops)

The Neon Goby (Elacatinus oceanops) known to tropical fish keeping enthusiasts as the Blue Neon Goby is native to the Caribbean, West Central Atlantic, and Gulf coast waters of North America; and range from southern Florida to Texas and southward to Belize.

The Neon Goby is found among the coral heads of their range alone, in pairs, and occasionally in small groups at depths from 3 to over 150 feet where they perform the function of cleaner fish to remove ectoparasites, fish slime, and scales on the skin, fins, mouths, and gill chambers of larger fish like groupers and snappers.

Neon Goby (Elacatinus oceanops)

The Neon Goby has a thin, elongated body shape with two brilliant neon blue horizontal stripes and three black horizontal stripes on the body, white to silver underneath the lower black stripes, and light pink hues around and under the gills.   They have clear fins and a pale stripe in front of each eye that almost reaches the snout.

A single or mated pair of Neon Gobies can be housed in a community or reef nano tank of at least 10 gallon capacity with a sandy or fine coralline gravel substrate and plenty of aged live rock arranged into caves, crevices, and overhangs for them to hide among.   Excellent filtration, protein skimming and regular water changes are important to remove nitrates from the tank.

The Neon Goby is a peaceful species that feeds on parasites that can harm other fish housed in the aquarium.  They are a natural cleaner fish that will generally coexist with a variety of other species and make a great addition to both community and reef tanks.

Although generally peaceful, Elacatinus oceanops can be territorial with their own kind. They are completely reef safe and will not harm other peaceful fish, corals, or invertebrates.

Although a single Blue Neon Goby can be easily housed in a nano tank; a live rock decorated tank of at least 30 gallon capacity is recommended to keep mated pairs and small groups of 6 to 8 individuals.

When housed with larger, more dominant fish species in larger tanks; Blue Neon Gobies can often be overlooked.

Ocellaris Clownfish, Firefish Gobies, Yellow Tangs, and Hippo Tangs all make good tankmates for Elacatinus oceanops.

The Neon Goby has been bred in an aquarium environment. Although they are difficult to sex; male genital papilla are pointed while the females are rounded.

The easiest way to obtain a mated pair is to purchase several individuals and let them pair off on their own.

Place the pair in at least a 20 gallon aquarium with plenty of space and live rock arranged into caves, overhangs and small crevices.

When ready to spawn, the female will lay 500 to 800 eggs in a small cave or crevice every 10 days. The male protects and aerates the eggs until they hatch into tiny larvae which takes six to nine days at temperatures between 75 to 81 degrees F. During this period, both parents aggressively defend the nest and eggs from intrusions.

Many breeders transfer the eggs or larvae into a 20 gallon tank and perform recurring water changes as the larvae grow out. They spend about 25 to 28 days as larvae until metamorphosis.

The Neon Goby (Elacatinus oceanops) regularly interbreeds with other fish from their genus like the Yellowlined Goby (Elacatinus figaro).

The Neon Goby is a carnivore that in their natural environment is primarily a parasite picker. In an aquarium environment they can be fed small bits of meaty foods such as shrimp, fish, worms, and copepods found in the sand. They will accept frozen foods, live brine shrimp and occasionally carnivore flakes or pellets as a supplement. Feeding several times a day is recommended.

The Neon Goby (Elacatinus oceanops) is readily available to tropical fish keeping enthusiasts mostly as captive bred specimens from a variety of of online retailers at a size of 1″ to 2″ at current prices from $18.99 to $23.99.

Neon Goby (Elacatinus oceanops)

Minimum Tank Size: 10 gallon nano tank
Aquarium Type: Reef or FOLR
Care Level: Easy
Temperament: Peaceful
Aquarium Hardiness: Hardy
Water Conditions: 72 – 78° F, dKH 8 – 12°, pH 8.1–8.4, sg 1.023-1.026
Max size: 2″
Color Form: Blue, Black
Diet: Carnivore
Compatibility: Reef Safe
Origin: West Central Atlantic, Caribbean
Family: Gobiidae
Lifespan: 5 – 10 years
Aquarist Experience Level: Intermediate

Pink-speckled Shrimpgoby (Cryptocentrus leptocephalus)

The Pink-speckled Shrimpgoby (Cryptocentrus leptocephalus) known to tropical fish keeping enthusiasts as Pink and Blue Shrimpgoby, Pink and Blue Spotted Goby, Singapore Shrimp Goby, Leptocephalus Prawn, Pinkspotted Shrimp Goby, Blue Prawn Goby, Pink Spotted Watchman Goby, or Leptocephalus Goby is native to the Western Pacific Ocean.

Its range extends from Indonesia to New Caledonia, north to the Yaeyama Islands, and south to northwestern Australia. More recently, specimens from Tonga have been confirmed.

The Pink-speckled Shrimpgoby can be found on silty, sand and rubble bottoms and the sandy mud bottoms of the mangrove swamps, lagoons, coastal reefs, tide pools and inner reef flats of their range, at depths to 32 feet. Solitary individuals have been encountered in symbiotic relationships with Pistol Shrimp at depths to almost 60 feet.

Pink-speckled Shrimpgoby (Cryptocentrus leptocephalus)

The Pink-speckled Shrimpgoby has a yellow, to tan, to brownish green body color that becomes almost white towards the vent and 6 to 7 diffused brownish vertical bars along the sides.   The head, back, and dorsal fins are adorned with pale-edged pink to red spots and smaller white spots surrounded by smaller blue spots. The first dorsal fin has blue edged pink, to orangish brown spots and the pectoral, fused pelvic, rear dorsal and rounded caudal fins are clear. Males and females share similar physical characteristics and are virtually indistinguishable.

Juveniles Cryptocentrus leptocephalus have subtle pink and blue colors that intensify as they mature.

The Pink-speckled Shrimpgoby is best housed in a well established reef or FOWLR aquarium of at least 40 gallon capacity with a deep coralline sand substrate mixed with small pieces of broken up shells and corals for them to burrow in; lots of mature live rock arranged into caves, crevices, and overhangs, and plenty of free swimming space.

Cryptocentrus leptocephalus thrive with plenty of live rock, a mixed sandy substrate, moderate water flow, and a tightly sealed lid to prevent them from exiting the tank.

The Pink-speckled Shrimpgoby is not aggressive but can be territorial with members of its own species in smaller tanks.   They spend much of their time burrowing into the substrate and collecting food in the water column.

Compatible tank mates for the Pink-speckled Shrimpgoby include Firefish, Cardinalfish, Dartfish, Basslets, Clownfish, and Damselfish.

Cryptocentrus leptocephalus are frequently housed with Pistol Shrimp of the Alpheus genus.   Three common types of pistol shrimp that pair readily with gobies are the Fine Striped, Tiger, and Candy Cane pistol shrimp.

When keeping the Pink-speckled Shrimpgoby with Pistol Shrimp, it is important to provide a deep sand bed of at least three inches mixed with plenty of broken shells and crushed coral of various sizes for the shrimp to have sufficient building material to dig a stable burrow.

The Pink-speckled Shrimpgoby will breed in an aquarium environment but the planktonic larvae are difficult to raise into adulthood.    Recent advancements have made Pink-speckled Shrimpgobies increasingly available through aquaculture.

In their natural environment, the Pink-speckled Shrimpgoby feeds on benthic organisms, small crustaceans, tiny invertebrates, and planktonic matter in the water column that passes by their burrows.    In an aquarium environment, they do well on a varied diet consisting of high quality marine pellets, frozen foods, Mysis shrimp, and live brine shrimp. Several daily feeding is recommended to ensure their health.

The Pink-speckled Shrimpgoby (Cryptocentrus leptocephalus) is available to tropical fish keeping enthusiasts as pre-ordered wild caught specimens from online retailers, wholesalers, and transhippers or as aquacultured specimens.  Prices for small 3.5″ specimens range from $48.99 to $62.99.

Pink-speckled Shrimpgoby (Cryptocentrus leptocephalus)

Minimum Tank Size: 55 gallons
Aquarium Type: Reef or FOLR
Care Level: Easy
Temperament: Peaceful
Aquarium Hardiness: Hardy
Water Conditions: 72-80° F, dKH 8 – 12°, pH 8.1–8.4, sg 1.023-1.025
Max size: 4.7″
Color Form: Blue, Red, Tan, Yellow
Diet: Carnivore
Compatibility: Reef Safe
Origin: Western Pacific, Indian Ocean
Family: Gobiidae
Lifespan: 3-5 years
Aquarist Experience Level: Intermediate

Y-bar Shrimpgoby (Cryptocentrus fasciatus)

The Y-bar Shrimpgoby (Cryptocentrus fasciatus) known to tropical fish keeping enthusiasts as the Y-bar Shrimp Goby, Ninebar Prawn-goby, Bluelined Shrimp goby, Blue Fin Watchman Goby or Barred prawn-goby is widespread in the Indo-West-Pacific from East Africa to Melanesia and the Great Barrier Reef.

Its range extends throughout the East Indian Ocean, West Indian Ocean, Australia, The Red Sea, Indonesia, and Central/West Pacific.

The Y-bar Shrimpgoby is a shy, territorial species that is found in the clear coastal and inner reef sand slopes of their range, often in small colonies at depths from 15 to over 65 feet where they share burrows in the sandy substrate with alpheid shrimps.

Occasionally two Y-bar Shrimpgobies of each color will share a burrow with a single pistol shrimp.

Y-bar Shrimpgoby (Cryptocentrus fasciatus)

The Y-bar Shrimpgoby has a light gray to blackish, to yellow body color with up to nine wide brown bars along the sides, blue to bluish white streaks on the head that change into blue spots on the body, translucent dorsal fins, pelvic fins with blue spots, and a blue stripe on the anal fin.

Y-bar Shrimpgoby (Cryptocentrus fasciatus)

There is a barred variety of Cryptocentrus fasciatus with four brown saddles, white or bluish streaks on the head, plain dorsal fins, pelvic fins with blue spots, and a blue stripe on the anal fin.

There is also a dark brown body colored saddled variety marked with whitish saddles on top of the head and along the back; and small white or blue spots or streaks on the head. Males and females are visually identical.

The Y-bar Shrimpgoby is similar to the Yellow Shrimpgoby (Cryptocentrus cinctus) that has a more sharply cornered dorsal fin with bluish streaks.

Both species share burrows with Alpheid shrimp.

Y-bar Shrimpgoby (Cryptocentrus fasciatus)

The Y-bar Shrimpgoby is best housed in a mature reef or FOWLR aquarium of at least 55 gallon capacity with a thick coralline sand substrate mixed with small shells and small pieces of broken up shells and corals for them to burrow in; some live rock arranged into caves, crevices, and overhangs, and plenty of free swimming space.

When keeping the Y-bar Shrimpgoby with Pistol Shrimp, it is important to provide deep sand of at least three inches and plenty of shells and crushed coral of various sizes so the shrimp has enough building material to dig a stable burrow.

Cryptocentrus fasciatus are frequently housed as mated pairs, and with Pistol Shrimp of the Alpheus genus.  Three common types of pistol shrimp pair readily with gobies; the Fine Striped, Tiger, and Candy Cane pistol shrimp.

Y-bar Shrimpgoby (Cryptocentrus fasciatus)

The Y-bar Shrimpgoby can be kept with other species in large tanks but they enjoy their own territory and can be very aggressive towards approaching tankmates. They are typically peaceful with all other types of fish.

Because this species is known to jump out of open aquariums, a tightly fitting tank lid is recommended.

The Y-bar Shrimpgoby has not been successfully bred in an aquarium environment.   Mated pairs will spawn but the fry are difficult to rear into adulthood. Mating takes place in a side corridor off the main burrow. The eggs are guarded in the side burrow by the male until they hatch out, usually at night. The tiny larvae then leave the burrow to become planktonic.

In their natural habitat, the Y-bar Shrimpgoby feeds on benthic organisms in the sea grass, small crustaceans, and planktonic matter that passes by their burrows.

In an aquarium environment they should be fed high-quality meaty items, marine algae, Spirulina, and frozen Mysis shrimp several times a day.

The Y-bar Shrimpgoby (Cryptocentrus fasciatus) is occasionally available to tropical fish keeping enthusiasts as pre-ordered wild caught specimens from online retailers, wholesalers, and transhippers. Prices for small specimens range from $39.99 to $46.50.

Y-bar Shrimpgoby (Cryptocentrus fasciatus)

Minimum Tank Size: 55 gallons
Aquarium Type: Reef or FOLR
Care Level: Easy
Temperament: Peaceful
Aquarium Hardiness: Hardy
Water Conditions: 71.6 °F – 82.4 °F , dKH 8 – 12°, pH 8.1–8.4, sg 1.020-1.025
Max size: 5.5″
Color Form: Blue, Brown, Black, Yellow
Diet: Carnivore
Compatibility: Reef Safe
Origin: Western Pacific, Indian Ocean
Family: Gobiidae
Lifespan: 5 years
Aquarist Experience Level: Intermediate