Pelicier’s Perchlets (Plectranthias pelicieri)

Pelicier’s Perchlets (Plectranthias pelicieri) known to tropical fish keeping enthusiasts as Pelicier’s Anthias, Pelicier Hawk. Mottlet Perchlet or Red Blootched Perchlet are found in the Indian Ocean around the tropical west coast of Africa. Another distinct population exists in Melanesia; a sub region of Oceania, northeast of Australia.

Pelicier’s Perchlets are an uncommon deepwater reef dwelling species typically encountered alone or in pairs close to the substrate along the rocky drop offs, deep reef slopes, caves and large coral structure of their range, in depths from 100 to well over 250 feet.

In the wild, Pelicier’s Anthias behave more like hawkfish than free swimming Anthias. They spend the majority of their time on their specialized pelvic fins propped up on large coarse substrates, rocky ledges, and rubble where they remain completely still for extended periods waiting for tiny passing prey in the water column.

Though frequently observed by divers living in pairs in their rocky territories, capturing them together is extremely difficult.

Pelicier’s Perchlets (Plectranthias pelicieri)

Pelicier’s Perchlets have a brilliant white to silvery white body color overlaid with large, irregularly shaped patches and vertical bands of crimson red to deep orange that give the fish a mosaic or marbled look. Some individuals have yellow to golden accents tipping the dorsal spines and highlighting the face and pelvic fins. The overall effect is a fiery checkerboard pattern.

Plectranthias pelicieri are monomorphi and share the same red, orange, and white checkerboard coloration.  Males have slightly longer and more intensely colored dorsal filaments of the first few spines and are generally more dominant and larger than females.

Pelicier’s Perchlets are best housed in a mature deepwater reef or FOWLR aquarium of at least 55 gallon capacity with a coarse coral rubble or sand substrate, plenty of live rock arranged into shady caves, ledges, and wide crevices, and a good amount of swimming space. Once acclimated, they will adopt a dimly lit cave or shady ledge as their permanent home.

Pelicier’s Perchlets are remarkably hardy and adjust incredibly well to aquarium life. They perform excellently in holding systems and adapt quickly to captivity.

Because they are collected from deep waters, they need a lower light aquarium. If placed in a reef setup with intense LED or T5 lighting, acclimate them slowly and provide plenty of shadowed overhangs and caves for them to escape the light. A lighting system that provides a gradual dawn to dusk lighting cycle will greatly benefit this species.

An aquarium chiller is recommended to maintain water temperatures at their recommended range, and a wavemaker is needed to provide the strong, continuous water movement found in their deep water environment.

Heavy filtration, aggressive protein skimming, regular water changes, and media reactors are also required to keep nitrates and phosphates at zero and maintain pristine water conditions.

Pelicier’s Perchlets are completely reef safe with corals, will not harm sessile invertebrates. and are incredibly peaceful toward other fish, but because they are true carnivores with surprisingly large mouths, they will consider small ornamental shrimp potential snacks. Cleaner Shrimp and Fire Shrimp are normally safe.

Plectranthias pelicieri are cryptic, passive, relatively peaceful and won’t actively harass standard community fish.

Keep one Pelicier’s Anthias per tank unless you have a mated pair or a large system with several distinct, separated rock piles. They are highly territorial toward their own kind and other similar-shaped bottom dwellers. In general, their temperament is comparable to basslets or smaller groupers.

Avoid keeping them with very aggressive tankmates that are likely to pick on them.

Plectranthias pelicieri have not been successfully bred in an aquarium environment.

They are broadcast pelagic spawners that release their eggs directly into the open water column where the fertilized eggs drift as plankton with ocean currents.

Pelicier’s Perchlets are strict, demersal carnivores that in their natural deep water environment sit motionless among the rubble and plate corals waiting to snatch up larger pelagic zooplankton, a variety of benthic crustaceans like small crabs, microscopic ornamental shrimp, and other tiny invertebrates crawling on the substrate, and small reef fish.

In an aquarium environment they adapt quickly to high quality meaty frozen foods like vitamin enriched brine shrimp, Myhsis, Calanus, and finely chopped krill, fresh shrimp, or saltwater fish. This species should only be fed once a day or once every other day after properly conditioned. Do not overfeed.

Pelicier’s Perchlets (Plectranthias pelicieri) are a rare, deep water species that are highly seasonable and only occasionally enter the market as single specimens (often only a couple of specimens per month globally).

Because they live at greater depths in the wild, they are infrequently collected and arrive in the aquarium trade in very limited numbers .

Like Sagamai Perchlets (Plectranthias sagamiensis) Pelicier’s Perchlets live in a mesophotic habitat that is below standard recreational diving limits.   Specimens that enter the aquarium trade are ocasionally hand collected by specialized deep diving collectors using mixed gas, closed circuit rebreathers.

They can only be acquired from specialized elite builders and boutique online retailers where they are frequently listed as backordered or available by waiting list only.   Major tropical fish wholesalers occasionally import them from Melanesia or Japan by custom request if their overseas collectors manage to safely decompress one.

When individual specimens are available, they typically command prices from $3,500 to $5,000 USD depending on size, origin, and quarantine protocols.

If you are a serious tropical fish keeping enthusiast looking to acquire a Pelicier’s Perchlet, your best strategy is to establish contact with a high end, rare fish supplier directly, and get placed on a dedicated deep water specimen notification list.

Pelicier’s Perchlets (Plectranthias pelicieri)

Minimum Tank Size: 55 gallons
Aquarium Type: Reef or FOLR
Care Level: Moderate
Temperament: Semi Aggressive
Aquarium Hardiness: Hardy
Water Conditions: 68°F to 74°F, dKH 8 to 11, pH 8.1-8.4, sg 1.024-1.026
Max size: 3″
Color Form: Orange, Red, White, Yellow
Diet: Carnivore
Compatibility: Reef
Origin: Melanesia, Japan
Family: Serranidae
Lifespan: 4-8 years
Aquarist Experience Level: Expert/Advanced

Sagamai Perchlet (Plectranthias sagamiensis)

The Sagamai Perchlet (Plectranthias sagamiensis) known to tropical fish keeping enthusiasts as the Threadtail Perchlet is a highly sought after deep water anthiadine species found in western Pacific waters from Japan, south to the Philippines and southern Indonesia.

The Sagamai Perchlet was originally discovered in Sagami Bay, Honshu Japan where it gets its name, sagamiensis.

Like other Plectranthias, the Sagami Perchlet prefers cool, low light, rariphotic waters below the mesophotic zone at 400 to 1,000 foot depths where they can be found hovering tightly over complex rocky structures, deep reef ledges, mixed sandy-rocky bottoms and photosynthetic corals.

Plectranthias sagamiensis are a secretive, demersal species that rely on the rocky crevices for protection. They use the caves, crevices and ledges to hid from predators and to ambush small mobile invertebrates and zooplankton carried by the deep water currents. They like to sit on elevated rocky, lookout posts to snatch food from the water column.

Although the Sagamai Perchlet is in the Serranidae family, it is technically not a true anthias however, it is a very close cousin. Pseudanthias species like the Dispar Anthias belong to the subfamily Anthiadinae.   The Sagamai Perchlet belongs to the subfamily Ananthiinae, formerly Anthiadinae, and commonly called Perchlets or Hawk Anthias.

Unlike true anthias that thrive in close groups with plenty of free swimming space and need multiple feedings a day; perchlets are more solitary ambush predators that have a much slower metabolism and need less attention.

Sagamai Perchlet (Plectranthias sagamiensis)

The Threadtail Perchlet has a stocky, diamond shaped body with a sharply pointed snout, large expressive eyes adapted for dim light, and a prominent, spiked dorsal fin that they they flare when displaying or hunting. Depending on their emotional state and activity, they have a chameleon like ability to drastically change colors.

At rest they Plectranthias sagamiensis have a uniform, monochromatic pinkish orange to muted red body color that blends into their surroundings; much like the Pygmy Hawkfish. When excited or feeding, they transform into a striking bi-color or tri-color form. Their body turns a vibrant reddish-orange color on the front upper half and a pale, pearlescent pink or white on the rear lower half; frequently accented by mottled yellow and white patches across the back and dorsal spikes.

Like most deep-water species, their intense red and orange colors make them completely invisible in the blue filtered light of the twilight zone, but under home aquarium actinic lighting, their colors pop.

The Sagami Perchlet is best housed in a mature deep water reef or FOWLR aquarium of at least 55 gallon capacity with a coralline substrate and plenty of live rock arranged into a slope with overhangs, deep crevices, ledges, and shaded caves for them to hide. They rarely swim in the open water column but enjoy hopping from ledge to ledge and hanging upside down in the cave ceilings.

Because they are collected from depths in excess of 400 feet, they are extremely sensitive to reef lighting. If you are keeping them in a brightly lit coral reef tank, it is essential to have deep dark caves for them to escape the light.

When first introduced, keep the aquarium lights dim or completely off for the first couple of days or run a heavily blue-skewed spectrum. A lighting system that provides a gradual dawn to dusk lighting cycle will greatly benefit this species in a tank that is brightly lit for corals. Over time, this species will adjust to brighter lights if they have plenty of shady rocky areas to retreat to.

An aquarium chiller is recommended to maintain water temperatures at their recommended range, and a wavemaker is needed to provide the strong, continuous water movement found in their deep water environment.

Heavy filtration, aggressive protein skimming, regular water changes, and media reactors are required to keep nitrates and phosphates at zero.

Sagami Perchlets are completely reef safe with corals and incredibly peaceful toward other fish, but because they are true carnivores with surprisingly large mouths, they will consider small ornamental shrimp potential snacks.    Cleaner Shrimp and Fire Shrimp are normally safe once Sagami Perchlets are acclimated.

Keep one Sagamai Perchlet per tank unless you have a huge system with several distinct, separated rock piles. They are highly territorial toward their own kind and other similar-shaped bottom-species.

Good tankmates include deep water true anthias, tangs, or wrasses.   Do not house them with highly aggressive bottom dwellers like large dottybacks or aggressive hawkfish that might run them out of their caves.

Plectranthias are pelagic spawners that have not been bred in a home aquarium or commercially.

The Sagamai Perchlet is a strict carnivore that in their mesophotic habitat feed on small, mobile benthic invertebrates like tiny crabs, microscopic ornamental shrimp, amphipods, and small fish larvae. Their surprisingly large mouths enable them to swallow their prey whole.

In an aquarium environment they do not require constant small feeding like true anthias. Instead they can initially be fed larger meals of live ghost shrimp, vitamin enriched brine shrimp, copepods, and amphipods. Once acclimated to live foods they will eagerly accept frozen Mysis shrimp, frozen chopped Krill, Calanus, chopped saltwater feeder shrimp, and potentially high quality carnivore pellets. Feeding once a day or even once every other day is sufficient for their low energy lifestyle.

The Sagamai Perchlet (Plectranthias sagamiensis) is a rare, highly coveted deep water species that is extremely limited and seasonal in the United States and can only be acquired from high end online retailers, specialized boutique importers, or elite quarantine builders.

Because Threadtail Perchlets live below standard recreational diving limits, specimens that enter the aquarium trade are hand-collected by specialized deep-diving collectors using mixed gas, closed circuit rebreathers.

When specialized deep-water collectors in Japan successfully collect them up and safely decompress them, they usually enter the United States market as single, isolated specimens that command a price tag typically ranging from $1,000 to well over $2,500 depending on the size, condition, and length of quarantine or conditioning.

If you are a serious tropical fish keeping enthusiast looking to acquire one, your best bet is to contact a specialized rare fish boutique vendor directly and ask to be put on a dedicated deep-water specimen waiting list.

Sagamai Perchlet (Plectranthias sagamiensis)

Minimum Tank Size: 55 gallons
Aquarium Type: Reef or FOLR
Care Level: Moderate
Temperament: Semi Aggressive
Aquarium Hardiness: Hardy
Water Conditions: 72°F to 76°F, dKH 8 to 11, pH 8.1-8.4, sg 1.024-1.026
Max size: 3.8″
Color Form: Orange, Red, Yellow
Diet: Carnivore
Compatibility: Reef
Origin: Sagami Bay, in Honshu, Japan
Family: Serranidae
Lifespan: 4-8 years
Aquarist Experience Level: Expert/Advanced

Cherry Sakura Anthias (Sacura margaritacea) School

The Cherry Sakura Anthias (Sacura margaritacea) known to tropical fish keeping enthusiasts as the Cherry Anthias, Sakura Anthias or in Japan; Sakuradai, is a rare deep-water species of marine anthias native to the Northwest Pacific Ocean, the coastal waters of Japan and a unique population farther south.

Cherry Sakura Anthias range extends across Eastern Asia and includes Japan, the Ogasawara (Bonin) Islands, South Korea, coastal China, Taiwan and much farther south to New Caledonia.

Cherry Anthias frequently congregate in large schools above rocky environments and among deep water gorgonians and soft corals that rely on strong, rapid ocean currents to sweep massive clouds of zooplankkton and tiny invertebrates for them to extract from the water column.   Unlike other anthias species, Sacura margaritacea are found in very numerous schools with hundreds of individuals and harems with several males.

Sakura Anthias are often found in large numbers of “super schools” hovering over deep rocky reefs, steep slopes, and rocky outcrops of their range at depths from 50 to almost 400 feet, where plenty of crevices, caves, and ledges occur for them to retreat to and escape from predators.

Sacura margaritacea practice a phenomenon known as tropical submergence.

In their northern range around Sagami Bay in Japan, Cherry Sakura Anthias are occasionally found in just 30 to 50 feet of water during the winter months.

In their southern range toward Okinawa and the Ogasawara Islands where surface water temperatures are much warmer, they are almost always found at depths between 130 to 150 feet or more.

Like other anthias species, Cherry Anthias are protogynous hermaphrodites where all individuals start life as females. They display clear sexual dimorphism.

Male Cherry Sakura Anthias (Sacura margaritacea)

Males are exceptionally vibrant and have a rich, intense red orange to scarlet pink or cherry red body color with prominent, irregularly shaped, pearly white to platinum silver spots arranged in horizontal rows along the flanks.

The fiery reddish pink colored fins are tipped with blue or turquoise and iridescent highlights along the margins, ending in elegant, elongated filaments as they mature into adults.

Females are a bright yellow orange to solid orange body color and lack the pearlescent white spots found on the

Female Male Cherry Sakura Anthias (Sacura margaritacea)

flanks of males. They have a black blotch located on the last four spiny rays of the dorsal fin that reliably distinguishes them from males.

Transitioning fish will have a body color that shifts from bright yellow orange to a deep cherry red. The defining black spot on the dorsal will fade and regress, and the pearlescent white pattern will begin to develop along the sides of the body.

Because Cherry Anthias are a subtropical, deep water species, they cannot be kept the exact same way as other anthias species.

A single individual is best housed in a mature reef or FOWLR tank of at least 75 gallon capacity with a coralline gravel or sandy substrate, plenty of live rock arranged into large crevices, deep caves, and dark overhangs for the to hide among and plenty of open swimming area in the upper water column.

A small harem of one male and 3 or more females or a group of all juvenile/female individuals are best kept in at least a 150 gallon tank with the same décor. Over time the most dominant female will transition into a bright cherry red male. Avoid housing multiple mature males together unless you have an exceptionally massive system.

Cherry Sakura Anthias are completely reef safe and will generally ignore corals and invertebrates.

They require lower light levels, which is why plenty of shaded areas in the tank are needed. A lighting system that provides a gradual dawn to dusk lighting cycle will greatly benefit this species if your reef system is brightly lit for corals.   When first introduced, keep the lights dim or run a heavily blue-skewed spectrum. They look their absolute best under deep blue or actinic lighting Over time, this species will adjust to brighter lights if they have plenty of shady rocky areas to retreat to.

To replicate their natural deep water reef slope environment, multiple wavemakers are needed to provide strong, continuous water movement and proper oxygenation necessary for them to thrive.

Because they require multiple small feedings; heavy filtration, aggressive protein skimming, regular water changes, and media reactors are required to keep nitrates and phosphates at zero.

An aquarium chiller is mandatory to maintain water temperatures at their recommended range, and because they are excellent jumpers; a tight fitting mesh lid or glass cover is recommended to keep them in the tank.

Cherry Sakura Anthias are peaceful toward other non-anthias species but can be territorial against rivals. They do best with other cool water or deep water reef fish like wrasses, assessors, or basslets.

Sacura margaritacea have not been successfully bred in an aquarium environment.

Like all anthias, Cherry Anthias are broadcast pelagic spawners.   When a harem is ready to spawn the dominant male will initiate a dramatic courtship dance by flaring his fins, flashing his pearlescent white spots, and darting rapidly around the females.  Once a female accepts his advances, the pair will engage in a darting dash toward the surface where they simultaneously release their eggs and sperm into the water column before immediately diving back down to the rockwork. The fertilized eggs are buoyant, transparent, and typically under 1mm in diameter.

In the wild, the eggs drift out into the open ocean currents as plankton. In an aquarium environment, they are usually swept into the filtration system or consumed by other tankmates.

Tropical fish keeping enthusiasts who manage to collect the eggs before they are destroyed must be able to feed the microscopic larvae. Hatched out larvae survive on their yolk sacs for a few days but then need specific strains of pelagic copepod nauplii like Parvocalanus crassirostris to continue their existence. Deep water anthias have a long larval stage that can last anywhere from 30 to 90 days before metamorphosis into recognizable post larval juveniles. Without specialized equipment, keeping water quality pristine in a specialized larval rearing tank for that long is impossible.

Cherry Sakura Anthias are strict, opportunistic zooplanktivores that continuously feed almost entirely on floating fish eggs, primitive tunicate larvae, crab and invertebrate larvae, mysid shrimp, tiny amphipods, and pelagic copepods and their larvae.

In an aquarium environment they need a varied diet rich in carotenoids and marine proteins.   Frozen high quality Mysis shrimp, Calanus, chopped krill, fortified brine shrimp, cyclops, and over time high quality protein rich pellets and flake foods rich in astaxanthin will be eagerly accepted. Small targeted feedings 2 to 3 times a day broadcast directly into the water flow will trigger their natural hunting instinct.

The Cherry Sakura Anthias (Sacura margaritacea) is a rare, highly coveted “holy grail” species that is very limited and seasonal in the United States. Because they are a deep-water species collected from specific subtropical areas around Japan, they demand a high price. This species is almost exclusively supplied by high end online livestock divers and specialized boutique importers.

Major online wholesale and retail outlets, specialty trans shippers, and vendors who list them as unavailable require tropical fish keeping enthusiasts to be on a waiting list for purchase when available.

When available in the United States, prices vary according to size, sex, and area of collection.

Individual female and juvenile Cherry Sakura Anthias typically retail between $599.00 and $600.00 each.
Individual fully transitioned supermales with cherry red colors and long fin filaments sell for $750.00 to $875.00.

Specialty vendors occasionally offer conditioned pairs of one male and one female at around $950.00; and a small harem can easily cost thousands of dollars.

Male Cherry Sakura Anthias (Sacura margaritacea)

Minimum Tank Size: 75 gallons; 150 gallons for groups
Aquarium Type: Reef or FOLR
Care Level: Moderate
Temperament: Semi Aggressive
Aquarium Hardiness: Hardy
Water Conditions: 65°F to 72°F, dKH 8 to 11, pH 8.1-8.4, sg 1.024-1.026
Max size: 5″
Color Form: Orange, Red, Yellow
Diet: Carnivore (zooplanktivores)
Compatibility: Reef
Origin: Izu Peninsula & Sagami Bay and Ogasawara Islands
Family: Serranidae
Lifespan: 4-6 years
Aquarist Experience Level: Expert/Advanced

Ignitus Anthias (Pseudanthias ignitus)

Ignitus Anthias (Pseudanthias ignitus) known to tropical fish keeping enthusiasts as the Flame Anthias, Flame Basslet, Flame Fairy Basslet, Flame Fairy Anthias, and Indian Flame Anthias are found in the eastern Indian and far western edge of the Pacific Ocean.

The range of the Flame Anthias extends into the Maldives, the Andaman Islands, the Similan Islands off western Thailand, and Sumatra, Indonesia.

Ignitus Anthias are typically found in masive schools hovering over the outer coral reef slopes and passes of their range in areas with heavy wave action and strong tidal currents in shallower depths from 10 to 50 feet.

Schools of Pseudanthias ignitus are frequently seen by divers several feet above live corals where they use the strong currents to their advantage by snatching passing zooplankton from the water column.

Most Ignitus Anthias are collected in strong currents from the reef passes and drop offs as they feed.

Although Ignitus Anthias display clear sexual dimorphism, both males and females have the fiery hues associated with their name Flame Anthias.

Ignitus Anthias (Pseudanthias ignitus)

Male Ignitus Anthias have an elongated, laterally compressed body with large eyes suited for spotting tiny zooplankton in the water column, a medium sized mouth that opens at an upward angle, and a fleshy, moveable protuberance on the front of their upper lip.

The head and mid section of the body are an intense orange yellow color that becomes firey red toward the back and upper torso.   The lower jaw and bottom half of the head are pale yellow with an orange stripe edged with lavender or purple that runs from the tip of the snout across the lower half of the eye to the edge of the gill cover.

The top of the bright firey red dorsal fin in males is edged in purple or lavender, and is yellow at the base. The transparent anal fin has a lavender hue, the pectoral fins have a red spot at the base, and the deeply forked caudal fin has an orange base that transitions into bright red lobes at the tips. The lower abdomen and belly are a soft lavender to silvery white color.

Ignitus Anthias (Pseudanthias ignitus)

Females have similar but more subdued colors. The body is yellow orange with a red dorsal fin and pectoral fins with a red dot at their base. The intense lavender highlights and deep crimson rear body shading found in males is absent in females.

Juvenile Flame Anthias have a uniform orange to soft yellow body color that deepen as they age.

Ignitus Anthias are protogynous hermaphrodites. When a community of females lacks a male, the dominant female will transition into a male within a few weeks.

A single Ignitus Anthias can be housed in a mature reef or FOWLR aquarium of at least 70 gallon capacity with a coralline substrate, large amounts of live rock arranged into caves, crevaces, ledges and overhangs for them to hide among, and plenty of free swimming space.

A small harem of one male and several females or a group of females are best kept in at least a 125 gallon tank decorated in the same fashion. They thrive in well established reef aquariums with stable water conditions.

To replicate their natural reef slope environment, multiple wavemakers are needed to provide strong, continuous water movement and proper oxygenation necessary for them to thrive. Try to create a brisk current across the upper and middle sections of the tank where they prefer to swim

Because Ignitus Anthias require constant small feedings; heavy filtration, aggressive protein skimming, regular water changes, and media reactors are required to keep nitrates and phosphates at zero.

Ignitus Anthias are notorious jumpers, particularly when startled, during feedings, or when minor hierarchy disputes arise. Providing a tight fitting mesh or glass lid on their tank is non negotiable.

Flame Fairy Anthias are completely reef safe and will ignore corals, clams, crabs, and ornamental shrimp.   They are quite docile and should only be kept with peaceful, non aggressive tankmates like gobies, basslets, firefish, pygmy angels, small wrasses, or peaceful tangs.   Avoid aggressive triggers, eels or large groupers.

When housed with conspecifics, Ignitus Anthias do best in harems of one male with 3 to up to 10 females. Never introduce more than one mature male, or they will fight aggressively.

When keeping a group, it is best to buy females of slightly varying sizes and introduce them all into the tank at the same time. This allows the group to establish a natural pecking order with minimum stress. Within a few weeks, the largest, most dominant female in the group will physically transition into a male.

Unlike deep water Anthias that prefer lower light levels and need plenty of shaded areas in the tank to retreat to, Ignitus Anthias quickly adjust to reef lighting. However, a lighting system that provides a gradual dawn to dusk lighting cycle can greatlly benefit this species.

Breeding Ignitus Anthias in an aquarium environment is extremely rare. Like Squarespot Anthias, healthy harems will display spawning behavior and even release eggs in an aquarium environment but raising the larvae to adulthood is virtually impossible without specialized kreisel tanks.

When a stable mature harem is well fed and the females are fully conditioned; courtship behavior will typically occur during the evening or at dusk.

The male’s colors will intensify, his bright red dorsal fin will become fully erect, and he will perform a U turn swimming pattern “dance” swimming downward to a receptive female and then darting up to the surface. A receptive female will simultaneously rush toward the surface with the male and release their eggs and sperm into the water column before darting back down to the safety of the live rock in the tank.

The pelagic, transparent, fertilized eggs contain an oil globule that keeps them afloat on the water surface. In the aquarium they are usually sucked into the filtration system, protein skimmer, or eaten by other fish in the tank before they can be captured.

Any collected eggs will hatch out in just 14 to 16 hours depending on water temperature.   The tiny hatched out larvae will survive on their yolk sac for about 48 hours before they need microscopic live foods like first stage rotifers and copepod nauplii. After a week or two, any surviving larvae will be able to handle brine shrimp. The larval fry have to drift as plankton in a specialized, perfectly circular flow tank for about 30 to 35 days before they metamorphose into recognizable juveniles.

Ignitus Anthias are zooplanktivores that in the wild gather in large shoals in the open water column, just above the the safety of the corals where the ocean currents deliver a continuous suply of copepods, amphipods, fish and invertebrate larvae, pelagic fish eggs, tunicates and rotifers.

In an aquarium environment, they need to be fed small amounts of zooplankton 3 to 4 times a day. Mysis shrimp, vitamin enriched brine shrimp, frozen Cyclops, Calanus, rotifers, finely chopped clams or shrimp. Over time high quality protein rich marine pellets or flakes may be accepted and should be broadcast into the water current to mimic zooplankton.  Any food that falls to the bottom of the tank will generally be ignored.

An established refugium connected to your main tank is strongly recommended to provide this species a continuous, natural supply of live copepods into the water column between regular feedings.

Ignitus Anthias (Pseudanthias ignitus) are available to tropical fish keeping enthusiasts from a number of online wholesalers, trans shippers and retailers, usually by special order.

Prices vary by size and area of collection but start around $49.99 to $59.99 for small size .5″ to 1.5″ females collected from the Maldives. South Asia specimens 2.25″ to 4.75″ are priced from $56.99 to over $79.99.

Ignitus Anthias (Pseudanthias ignitus)

Minimum Tank Size: 70 gallons
Aquarium Type: Reef or FOLR
Care Level: Moderate
Temperament: Semi Aggressive
Aquarium Hardiness: Hardy
Water Conditions: 72-78° F, dKH 8 to 12, pH 8.1-8.4, sg 1.020-1.025
Max size: Males 4″, Females 3″-3.5″
Color Form: Orange, Red, Yellow, Purple
Diet: Carnivore
Compatibility: Reef
Origin: Indo-Pacific
Family: Serranidae
Lifespan: 5 – 7 years
Aquarist Experience Level: Intermediate

Squarespot Anthias (Pseudanthias pleurotaenia)

Squarespot Anthias (Pseudanthias pleurotaenia) known to tropical fish keeping enthusiasts as the Pink Square Anthias, Mirror Basslet or Squarespot Fairy Basslet is found throughout Indonesia, Micronesia and Samoa. Its range in the Pacific Ocean extends from Indonesia to Samoa, north to Ryukyu Islands, south to New Caledonia and the Rowley Shoals in the eastern Indian Ocean, and Christmas Island.

Squarespot Anthias are normally found in large schools and harems of one male with many females over the deep water current swept coral colonies, drop offs, and outer reef slopes of their range at depths from 30 to almost 600 feet.   Divers frenquently encounter large shoals a few meters above the edges of current swept drop offs feeding on microscopic organisms drifting in the currents.

Squarespot Anthias (Pseudanthias pleurotaenia)

Squarespot Anthias are sexually dimorphic.   Adult males have a vivid pinkish purple body color with a prominent square shaped violet patch on their flanks and caudal fins with long filamented streamers. Squarespot Anthias body and patch colors are highly variable, as is the size of the patch which can be absent, or up to half the size of the body.

Adult females have a bright yellow orange body color with two rather thin iridescent blue stripes running from the eye across the gill plates and generally no streamers on their caudal fins.

Males are slightly larger and longer than females. Juvenile Pseudanthias pleurotaenia are solitary, less colorful, and usually remain close to shelter.

A single Squarespot Anthias can be housed in a mature reef or FOWLR aquarium of at least 130 gallon capacity with a coralline substrate, large amounts of live rock arranged into caves, crevaces, ledges and overhangs for them to hide among, and plenty of free swimming space.

A small harem of one male and several females or a group of females are best kept in at least a 180 gallon tank with the same decor.

To replicate their natural deep water reef slope environment, multiple wavemakers are needed to provide strong, continuous water movement and proper oxygenation necessary for them to thrive.

Because they require constant small feedings; heavy filtration, aggressive protein skimming, regular water changes, and media reactors are required to keep nitrates and phosphates at zero.

An aquarium chiller should be considered to maintain water temperatures at their recommended range, and because they are excellent jumpers; a tight fitting mesh lid or glass cover is recommended to keep them in the tank.

Mirror Basslets are completely reef safe and will generally ignore corals and invertebrates.   They prefer lower light levels and need plenty of shaded areas in the tank to retreat to.   A lighting system that provides a gradual dawn to dusk lighting cycle can greatlly benefit this species if your reef system is brightly lit for corals.

Although Squarespot Anthias can be kept singly, as a mated pair, or in small groups of females; they are best kept in a harem of one male with 4 to 6 females.   If you cannot find a male, purchase a group of juvenile females and within a few weeks, the largest, most dominant female will naturally transition into a colorful male.   Never introduce multiple males into the same tank, as they will fight to the death.

Because Pseudanthias pleurotaenia are timid, easily stressed, and slow to feed; they should be housed with peaceful, slow-moving, non-aggressive tank mates that will not intimidate them or outcompete them for food

Compatible tank mates include Foxfaces, Tangs, Midas Blennies, Watchman Gobies, Fairy Wrasses, Firefish and Dartfish, Mandarinfish, and Invertebrates.

Avoid conspecific males, large angels, large wrasses, aggressive tangs, surgeonfish, dottybacks, damsels, and predatory Groupers, Lionfish, or Eels.

Breeding Squarespot Anthias in a home aquarium is virtually impossible. Healthy harems will display spawning behavior and even release eggs in an aquarium environment but raising the larvae to adulthood is impossible without specialized kreisel tanks.

Squarespot Anthias are pelagic broadcast spawners. During the evening, the male and female will swim upward in the water column and simultaneously release their eggs and sperm. The tiny floating eggs are usually sucked into the filtration system, protein skimmer, or eaten by other fish in the tank before they can be captured.

The microscopic larvae need microscopic copepods like Parvocalanus crassirostris of a spceific micron size to survive. The primitive larvae lack eyes or mouths, and are unable to eat rotifers or baby brirne shrimp. The larval fry have to drift as plankton in a specialized, perfectly circular flow tank for about a month before they lmetamorphose into recognizable juveniles.

The Oceanic Institute & Georgia Aquarium and aquaculture companies like Biota have successfully cultured and captive bred Squarespot Anthias for sale to tropical fish keeping enthusiasts on a limited basis, but most offered for sale are wild caught.

Squarespot Anthias are planktivores that in the wild gather in large shoals just above the steep drop offs and outer reef slopes where the ocean currents deliver a continuous suply of copepods, crustacean larvae, pelagic fish eggs, tunicates and rotifers. They to not graze on the substrate or corals.

In an aquarium environment they need to be fed small amounts of zooplankton 3 to 4 times a day.    Mysis shrimp, vitamin enriched brine shrimp, cyclops, calanus, finely chopped clams or shrimp, and over time high quality protein rich marine pellets or flakes should be broadcast into the water current to mimic zooplankton.    They will ignore food that falls to the bottom of the tank.

An established, oversized refugium connected to your main tank is strongly recommended to provide a continuous, natural supply of live copepods into the water column between regular feedings.

Squarespot Anthias (Pseudanthias pleurotaenia) are occasionally available to tropical fish keeping enthusiasts from Indonesia and the Philippines as wild caught specimens from a number of online wholesalers, trans shippers and retailers, usually by special order at approximate purchase sizes: S: 1″-2″, S/M: 2″-3″, M: 3″-4″, M/L: 4″-5″, L: 5″-6″.

Prices vary by size and area of collection but start around $118.99 to $176.99 for medium size males collected from the Philipines, to $87.99 for the same size female specimen.

Squarespot Anthias (Pseudanthias pleurotaenia)

Minimum Tank Size: 130 gallons
Aquarium Type: Reef or FOLR
Care Level: Moderate
Temperament: Semi Aggressive
Aquarium Hardiness: Hardy
Water Conditions: 72-78° F, dKH 8 to 12, pH 8.1-8.4, sg 1.020-1.025
Max size: 7.75″
Color Form: Orange, Red, Purple
Diet: Carnivore
Compatibility: Reef
Origin: Indo-Pacific
Family: Serranidae
Lifespan: 5 – 7 years
Aquarist Experience Level: Intermediate/Advanced

Purple-Queen-Anthias-Pseudanthias-tuka-pair

Purple Queen Anthias (Pseudanthias tuka) known to tropical fish keeping enthusiasts as Queen Purple Anthias, Amethyst Anthias, or Sailfin Anthias are Native to the Indian and Western Pacific Oceans.

Its range extends from Mauritius, Maldives in the Indian Ocean; to the Philippines, Indonesia, Palau, Solomon Islands, Fiji, and Society Islands in the Western and Central Pacific; south to the Great Barrier Reef in Australia.

First discovered in 1927 off the coast of New Caledonia, Purple Queen Anthias are normally encountered in large shoals or harems of one male to several females along the steep coral rich reef slopes and drop-offs of their range, typically at shallower depths of 50 to 100 feet where they feed on nutrient rich plankton.

Male Purple Queen Anthias (Pseudanthias tuka)

Purple Queen Anthias have slender, moderately compressed streamlined bodies with pointed snouts, slightly protruding lower jaws, and deeply forked lyretail shaped caudal fins that in adult males end in long filaments. .

Females have a vivid, solid violet to purple body color with a bright yellow stripe running along the back

Female Purple Queen Anthias (Pseudanthias tuka)

onto the upper lobe of the caudal fin. Females are less colorful, often appearing in shades of orange or pink.

Transitioned males have a deep purple to magenta colored body without the yellow stripe. Adults develop a dark red, burgundy or purplish colored spot on the base of the pectoral fins and a yellowish orange patch on the throat.

There is a known geographical variation of Pseudanthias tuka found in the Rowley Shoals off northwestern Australia where males develop a thin yellow stripe along the very top edge of their dorsal fin, however, this is a regional trait.

Purple Queen Anthias are a relatively small species. Adult males reach a maximum size of 4.7 inches while females only grow to 3 or 3.5 inches in length.

The Purple Queen Anthias (Pseudanthias tuka) is often confused with the Evans’ Anthias (Pseudanthias evansi) which also have bold purple bodies, however, both males and females have bright yellow colored dorsal and caudal fins.

A small group or harem of Purple Queen Anthias are best housed in a mature reef or FOWLR aquiarium of at least 130 gallon capacity with a fine coralline gravel substrate, copious amounts of live rock arranged into caves, overhangs, and crevices for them to hide among and plenty of free swimming space.

To replicate their natural reef slope environment, multiple wavemakers are needed to provide the heavy water flow and proper oxygenation necessary. Because they require constant small feedings; heavy filtration, aggressive protein skimming, regular water changes, and media reactors are needed to keep nitrates and phosphates at zero.

An aquarium chiller should be considered to maintain water temperatures at their recommended range, and because they are excellent jumpers; a tight fitting mesh lid or glass cover is recommended to prevent them from jumping out of the tank.

Sailfin Anthias are completely reef safe and compatible with corals and invertebrates. They prefer lower light levels and should be provided with plenty of shaded areas. If your reef tank is brightly lit for corals. a lighting system that provides a gradual dawn to dusk lighting cycle can be of great benefit fo this species.

Purple Queen Anthias are reef safe and fully compatible with corals and invertebrates. Although they can be kept singly, as a mated pair, or in small groups of females; they are best kept in a harem of one male with 4 to 6 females. Never introduce multiple males into the same tank, as they will fight to the death.

Because Pseudanthias tuka are timid, easily stressed, and slow to feed; they must be housed with peaceful, slow-moving, non-aggressive tank mates that will not intimidate them or outcompete them for food

Compatible tank mates in a FOWLR setting include cardinalfish, Midas Blennies, Watchman Gobies, Fairy Wrasses, Firefish and Dartfish, Mandarinfish, and peaceful Chromis like Chromis viridis.

Avoid large wrasses, aggressive tangs, surgeonfish, dottybacks, damsels, and predatory Groupers, Lionfish or Hawkfish.

The Purple Queen Anthias has not been successfully bred in an aquarium environment. Like all anthias, Purple Queen Anthias are protogynous hermaphrodites that form harems of a dominant male and a small pod of females.

With several females in an aquarium, the largest most dominant female will transform into a male. In optimal, stress free aquarium environments, a harem may perform coujrtship and spawning rituals similar to those in the wild.

Around dusk or under dim lighting, the male will flash his colors, dart around and make U swimming petterns to attract a willing female to spawn. A pair will dash to the top of the tank and simultaneously release their tiny, spherical, floating eggs and sperm into the water column before diving back to the bottom into the rocks.

The tiny pelagic eggs are usually either sucked into the tank’s filtration system, destroyed by protein skimmers, or eaten by other tankmates before any hatch out. Anthias larvae are microscopic and require specilized, ultra small copepods in a continuous current to survive. Facilities like the Biota Group that have succefully bred other anthias species still have not been able to breed this species.

Purple Queen Anthias are strict planktivores that in their natural environment feed continuously on zooplankton like fish eggs,invertebrate larvae, pelagic tunicates, and microscopic copepods.   They generally ignore non living organic debris.

In an aquarium environment, they must initially be fed live rotifers, copepods and newly hatched brine shrimp 4 to 5 times a day. After they are eating live foods, finely chopped frozen copepods (Cyclops), fish roe, calanus, and vitamin enriched myhsis shrimp can gradually be mixed in.

In a home tank, they generally do not recognize flakes, pellets, or dead food, and will quickly starve to death if not properly trained.

An established, oversized refugium connected to your main tank is strongly recommended to provide a continuous, natural supply of live copepods into the water column between regular feedings.

The Purple Queen Anthias (Pseudanthias tuka) is moderately available to tropical fish keeping enthusiasts from a number of online wholesalers, trans shippers, and retailers, as wild caught individuals from Cebu, Indonesia, and the Great Barrier Reef usually by special order at approximate purchase sizes: 1″ to 3.5″.

Prices vary by size, area of collection, and gender but retail around $49.99 to $99.99 or more.

Purple Queen Anthias (Pseudanthias tuka)

Minimum Tank Size: 130 gallons
Aquarium Type: Reef or FOLR
Care Level: Extensive
Temperament: Peaceful
Aquarium Hardiness: Delicate
Water Conditions: 72-78° F, dKH 8 to 12, pH 8.1-8.4, sg 1.020-1.025
Max size: 4.7″
Color Form: Purple, Red, Yellow
Diet: Plankitivore
Compatibility: Reef
Origin: Indian and Western Pacific Oceans
Family: Serranidae
Lifespan: 5 – 7 years
Aquarist Experience Level: Expert Only

Sunburst-Anthias-Serranocirrhitus-latus

The Sunburst Anthias (Serranocirrhitus latus) known to tropical fish keeping enthusiasts as the Fathead Sunburst Anthias and Square Block Anthias are native to the Western Pacific Ocean. Its range is quite broad, stretching from the islands of southern Japan down to the northern coast of Australia

It extends as far north as Taiwan and the Ryukyu and Izu Islands of Japan; south to the Great Barrier Reef in Australia and New Caledonia; and from the Moluccas (Indonesia) in the west to Fiji, Palau, and Tonga in the east.

Sunburst Anthias are a secretive species that are typically found along the steep slopes, drop offs and overhangs of their range on the inshore coral reefs in depths from 50 to over 230 feet. Unlike most anthias that swim in large schools in open water, the Sunburst Anthias prefers hanging around caves and overhangs in the deeper waters of the outer reef slopes.

Divers frequently find them swimming upside down close to the ceilings of caves or under ledges where they wait for drifting zooplankton in areas with moderate to strong currents.

Sunburst Anthias are one of the few Anthias species that do not display sexual dimorphism.

Sunburst-Anthias-Serranocirrhitus-latus

The Sunburst Anthias has a predominantly pink body color with bright yellow to orange scale margins and facial markings. Their translucent pectoral, anal, and caudal fins are tinged in light to purplish blue.

Adult males are more vibrantly colored than females and frequently display vivid yellow or orange hues with contrasting purple and pink accents. Females have a more subdued appearance.

Juvenile Serranocirrhitus latus have less pronounced colors. As they mature, their colors become more pronounced and vivid, especially in males.

Sunburst Anthias can be housed in a mature FOWLR or reef tank of at least 70 gallon capacity with a sand or coralline gravel substrate and copious amounts of live rock arranged into caves, overhangs, ledges, and crevaces for them to hide among.

A powerhead or wavemaker is needed to provide the heavy water flow and proper oxygenation necessary to mimic their natural reef environment. An aquarium chiller should also be considered to maintain water temperatures at their recommended range, and because they are excellent jumpers; a tight fitting mesh lid or glass cover is essential to prevent them from jumping out of the tank.

Sunburst Anthias are completely reef safe and compatible with corals and invertebrates. Because they inhabit deeper waters, they prefer lower light levels and should be provided with plenty of shaded areas. Deep rocky caves, wide overhangs and ledges will suffice if your reef tank is brightly lit for corals.

Sunburst Anthias are often quite territorial toward their own kind. Unless you are keeping them in a very large sytstem of 150 gallons or more where they can defend distinct territories, it is best to keep only one per tank.

Serranocirrhitus latus are generally peaceful and pretty shy.   They are easily intimidated by aggressive tankmates like large Tangs, Angels or Dottybacks.

Compatible tank mates include Clownfish (Amphiprion species), Firefish Gobies (Nemateleotris species), Royal Gramma (Gramma loreto), Banggai Cardinalfish (Pterapogon kauderni) and Fairy Wrasses (Cirrhilabrus species).

Sunburst Anthias can be kept as a mated pair, in a small group of females, or as one male with several females. Never keep two males in the same tank, as it can lead to extreme aggression.

Breeding Sunburst Anthias is extremely difficult in a home aquarium environment and although commercial breeding has been achieved, it is not commonplace.

Like other members of the Serranidae family, Sunburst Anthias are protogynous hermaphrodites. They are all born female, and the most dominant, largest individual in a group will eventually transition into a male.

Fathead Anthias, have a unique spawning ritual in the wild that differs slightly from other more social, schooling anthias species. Most anthias species form huge schools when spawning. Sunburst Anthias are more reclusive and typically live alone or in very small harems of one dominant male and a few females. Males are very territorial and perform interisting acrobatic displays to court females and defend their territory.

They are pelagic spawners that release their eggs and sperm into the water column. During the spawning ritual, a pair will leave the safety of the reef and dart upwards toward the surface. At the top of this ascent, they simultaneously release gametes before quickly darting back down to the cover of their rocky cave. Once fertilized, the tiny spherical eggs (roughly 0.65–0.80 mm) drift with the ocean currents as planbkton until they hatch out into tiny larvae. The tiny larvae have voracious appetites and fend for themselves until they attain adulthood.

In an aquarium environment, the floating eggs are usually sucked into the filtration system or eaten by other fish in the tank before they can be collected. The microscopic newly hatched larvae are nearly impossible to raise and require copepod nauplii that are challenging to culture.

In their natural habitat, Serranocirrhitus latus constantly feed on zooplankton, fish eggs, small invertebrates, and crustaceans. In an aquarium environment with plenty of live rock, they should be fed a variety of meaty foods like finely chopped seafood, vitamin enriched frozen mysis shrimp, brine shrimp, and a steady supply of copepods and amphipods 3 to 5 times a day.

Over time they will accept high quality flake foods or pellets but to keep them thriving, a refugium is recommended for cultivating a continuous food supply of nutritious live copepods and amphipods.

Sunburst Anthias (Serranocirrhitus latus) are available to tropical fish keeping enthusiasts from a number of online wholesalers, trans shippers, and retailers, as wild caught individuals usually by special order at approximate purchase sizes: Small: 1″ to 2″; Medium: 2″ to 3″; Large: 3″ to 4″.

Prices vary by size and area of collection but start around $139.99 for small .75-1.25″ Western Pacific specimens to $219.99 for the same size South Pacific individual. Large specimens start at $256.99 from Western Pacific waters.

Sunburst-Anthias-Serranocirrhitus-latus

Minimum Tank Size: 70 gallons
Aquarium Type: Reef or FOLR
Care Level: Moderate
Temperament: Peaceful
Aquarium Hardiness: Hardy
Water Conditions: 72-78° F, dKH 8 to 12, pH 8.1-8.4, sg 1.020-1.025
Max size: 5″
Color Form: Blue, Orange, Red, Yellow
Diet: Carnivore
Compatibility: Reef
Origin: Western Pacific, Fiji, Tonga
Family: Serranidae
Lifespan: 3 – 5 years
Aquarist Experience Level: Intermediate

Lyretail Anthias (Pseudanthias squamipinnis)

Lyretail Anthias (Pseudanthias squamipinnis) known to tropical fish keeping enthusiasts as the Scalefin Anthias, Squamipinnis Anthias, Sea Goldie, and Orange Fairy Basslet is found throughout Indo-Pacific waters, from the Red Sea to the East Coast of Africa all the way to the outer islands of Polynesia in the Central Pacific.

Lyretail Anthias are generally found in large schools or harems over rocky structure and areas with abundant coral along the outer reef slopes and shallow coastal lagoons of their range at depths from 30 to over 130 feet; usually foraging on zooplankton, fish eggs, small invertebrates, and crustaceans.

Lyretail Anthias are hermaphroditic and exhibit sexual dimorphism.

Lyretail Anthias (Pseudanthias squamipinnis)

Male Lyretail Anthias have a red, pinkish or peach colored body with a yellow gradient splotch in the center of the body, a prominent first spike on the dorsal fin and lyre shaped pectoral and caudal fins.

Female Lyretail Anthias tend to be more orange in color with bright yellow edging along their fins.

Males are larger and have more vibrant colors than females.  Slight color variations exist depending on geographic area of collection.

Lyretail Anthias (Pseudanthias squamipinnis)

Lyretail Anthias are a peaceful species that can be kept as a mated pair, in small schools of females, or in odd numbers of larger harems with a single dominant male and several females.    Avoid keeping two males in the same tank, as it can lead to extreme aggression.

A pair or single Pseudanthias squamipinnis can be housed in a mature reef or well established FOWLR aquarium of at least 100 gallon capacity with a coralline sandy substrate, an abundant amount of live rock arranged into caves, crevices, overhangs, and crevices for hiding, and plenty of free swimming space.

A powerhead or wavemaker is needed to provide the heavy water flow and proper oxygenation necessary to mimic their natural reef environment. An aquarium chiller should also be considered to maintain water temperatures at their recommended range, and because they are excellent jumpers; a tight fitting mesh lid or glass cover is essential to prevent them from jumping out of the tank.

Lyretail Anthias are reef safe and fully compatible with corals and invertebrates.

Although they can become aggressive towards conspecifics when kept in small groups in smaller aquariums; housing them in larger groups or as a single male with several females is recommended to mitigate aggression.   Sea Goldies thrive in large schools of five or more individuals (preferably one male and up to ten females), in a 150 gallon or larger tank.

Compatible tank mates include the Green Mandarin Dragonet (Synchiropus splendidus), Banggai Cardinalfish (Pterapogon kauderni), Flame Hawkfish (Neocirrhites armatus), gobies, blennies, jawfish, tangs, and wrasses.

Aquaculture efforts for the Lyretail Anthias are limited and although they will spawn in an aquarium environment, raising the larvae to adulthood is virtually impossible.

Spawning behavior is similar to the Dispar Anthias (Pseudanthias dispar).  In the wild, spawning typically occurs in the early morning hours around dawn.   The male will establish a territory where he performs a courting ritual that includes color displays, fin flicking, and synchronized swimming to attract females for spawning.   A single male will court and spawn with multiple females as they release their eggs into the water column and are fertilized by the male.

In the wild, Pseudanthias squamipinnis spawn in huge schools where the fertilized eggs are swept away by strong currents to become plankton.   In an aquarium environment, the floating eggs are usually sucked into the filtration system or eaten by other fish in the tank before they can be collected. The microscopic newly hatched larvae are nearly impossible to raise and require copepod nauplii that are challenging to culture.

In the wild, Lyretail Anthias constantly feed on zooplankton, fish eggs, small invertebrates, and crustaceans. In an aquarium environment with plenty of live rock, they should be fed a variety of meaty foods like finely chopped seafood, vitamin enriched frozen mysis shrimp, brine shrimp, copepods, and amphipods 3 to 4 times a day.

Over time they will accept high quality flake foods or pellets but to keep them thriving, a refugium is recommended for cultivating a continuous food supply of nutritious live copepods and amphipods.

Lyretail Anthias (Pseudanthias squamipinnis) are available to tropical fish keeping enthusiasts from a number of online wholesalers, trans shippers, and retailers, as wild caught individuals usually by special order at approximate purchase sizes: Small: 1″ to 2″, Medium: 2″ to 3″, Large: 3″ to 4-1/2″.

Prices vary by size and area of collection but start around $69.99 for 2″ to 3″ African females to $99.99 for the same size Red Sea specimen.

Lyretail Anthias (Pseudanthias squamipinnis)

Minimum Tank Size: 100 gallons
Aquarium Type: Reef or FOLR
Care Level: Moderate
Temperament: Semi Aggressive
Aquarium Hardiness: Hardy
Water Conditions: 72-78° F, dKH 8 to 12, pH 8.1-8.4, sg 1.020-1.025
Max size: 5″
Color Form: Orange, Red, Yellow
Diet: Carnivore
Compatibility: Reef
Origin: Indo-Pacific
Family: Serranidae
Lifespan: 5 – 7 years
Aquarist Experience Level: Intermediate/Advanced

Dispar Anthias (Pseudanthias dispar)

The Dispar Anthias (Pseudanthias dispar) known to tropical fish keeping enthiusiasts as the Redfin Anthias, Lyretail Anthias, Peach Anthias, Nemanthias Lyretail, or Madder Seaperch, is widely distributed throughout the tropical Indo Pacific.

Its range extends from the Red Sea and Christmas Island in the east Indian Ocean to the Line Islands, north to the Yaeyama Islands, and south to the Great Barrier Reef, Fiji, and Samoa.

The Dispar Anthias is a peaceful and quite social shallow reef species that is normally encountered in large schools or harems along the outer reef slopes, drop offs, and coral rich lagoons of their range grazing on drifting zooplankton and crustaceans at depths from 5 to over 50 feet.

Dispar Anthias (Pseudanthias dispar)

Pseudanthias dispar exhibit sexual dimorphism.   Male Dispar Anthias have a bright orange-purple red to pink body color with a distinct bright red dorsal fin and a yellowish or pale lower body that becomes more vibrant during courtship displays.

Female Dispar Anthias (Pseudanthias dispar)

Females are smaller and have a more subdued yellow to orange upper body color that fades into a pale lavender, magenta, or white underbelly.   Color variations exist depending on area of collection.

Dispar Anthias can be kept as a mated pair, as a small school of females, or in larger harems of a single male with several females in odd numbers.    Avoid keeping two males in the same tank, as it can lead to extreme aggression.

A pair or single Pseudanthias dispar is best housed in a mature reef or well established FOWLR aquarium of at least 80 gallon capacity with a coralline sandy substrate, plenty of live rock arranged into caves, crevices, overhangs, and crevices for hiding, and lots of free swimming space.

A powerhead or wavemaker is required to ensure the heavy water flow and proper oxygenation necessary to mimic their natural reef environment.   An aquarium chiller should also be considered to maintain water temperatures in their recommended range, and because they are excellent jumpers; a tight fitting mesh lid or glass cover is essential to prevent them from jumping out of the tank.

Dispar Anthias are reef safe and fully compatible with corals and invertebrates. They can be kept singly, as a mated pair, or in small groups of females. Although they can become aggressive towards conspecifics when kept in small groups in smaller aquariums; housing them in larger groups or as a single male with several females is recommended to mitigate aggression. Dispar Anthias thrive in large schools of five or more individuals (preferrably one male and up to ten females), in a 150 gallon or larger tank.

Compatible tank mates in a FOWLR setting include cardinalfish, gobies, several species of blennies, jawfish, tangs, and wrasses.

Although Dispar Anthias spawn in an aquarium environment and release their pelagic eggs, successfully rearing the larvae is rare and requires hatchery type setups.

Spawing behavior is similar to the Bartlett’s Anthias (Pseudanthias bartlettorum).

They are protogynous hermaphrodites that spawn in harems where one male dominates several females. The male becomes more vibrantly colored and performs a dance like courtship display that starts above the reef with some fin flicking and dives towards the bottom while flashing his red dorsal and ventral fins. The eggs are released by the females into the water column and fertilized by the male, usually during a daily feeding frenzy, close to dusk.

In the wild, they spawn in large schools where the eggs are swept away by strong currents. In an aquarium environment, the floating eggs are usually sucked into the filtration system or eaten by other fish in the tank before they can be collected. The microscopic newly hatched larvae are almost impossible to raise and require copepod nauplii that are hard to culture.
For this reason the majority of specimens sold to tropical fish keeping enthusiats are wild caught.

In their natural habitat, Dispar Anthias are omnivores that seem to be constantly feeding on zooplankton and small crustaceans. In an aquarium environment, the biggest challenge to feeding them is their high metabolism. They require consistent daily feeding to prevent starvation, especially in the first few weeks.

Dispar Anthias should be fed a variety of meaty foods like finely chopped seafood, vitamin enriched frozen mysis shrimp, brine shrimp, copepods, and amphipods 3 to 4 times a day.

Over time they will accept high quality flake foods or pellets but to keep them thriving, a refugium is recommended for cultivating a continuous food supply of nutritious live copepods and amphipods.

The Dispar Anthias (Pseudanthias dispar) is sporadically available to tropical fish keeping enthusiasts from a number of online wholesalers, trans shippers, and retailers, usually by special order at approximate purchase sizes: Small 1-1/2″ to 2″; Medium 2″ to 3″; Medium/Large: 3″ to 3-1/2″; Large: 3-1/2″ to 4″.

Prices vary by size and area of collection but run around $35.99 to 49.99 for small Sri Lanka individuals to $54.99 or more for medium Marshall Island specimens.

Dispar Anthias (Pseudanthias dispar)

Minimum Tank Size: 80 gallons
Aquarium Type: Reef or FOLR
Care Level: Moderate
Temperament: Semi Aggressive
Aquarium Hardiness: Delicate but hardy after acclimated
Water Conditions: 72-78° F, dKH 8 to 12, pH 8.1-8.4, sg 1.020-1.025
Max size: 4″
Color Form: Orange, Purple, Red, White, Yellow
Diet: Carnivore
Compatibility: Reef
Origin: Australia, Indonesia, Central/West Pacific
Family: Serranidae
Lifespan: 5 years
Aquarist Experience Level: Intermediate/Advanced

Bartlett’s Anthias School (Pseudanthias bartlettorum)

The Bartlett’s Anthias (Pseudanthias bartlettorum) known to tropical fish keeping enthusiasts as the Bartlett’s Fairy Bass is found in the western Pacific Ocean and ranges from Palau, Kosrae in the Caroline Islands, Kwajalein in the Marshall Islands, Nauru and Tabuaeran in Kiribati and Tonga.

The Bartlett’s Anthias is normally encountered in areas with strong currents along the reef slopes, faces, and channel drop offs of their range at depths to 100 feet or more where they are normally encountered in large schools of a few males with several dozen females and juvenile stragglers.

Like most Anthias species, Bartlett’s Anthias are protogynous hermaphrodites that change sex from female to male. I n the wild when a male in a harem dies, the largest and most dominant female will morph into a male to take his place.

Bartlett’s Anthias (Pseudanthias bartlettorum)

The Bartlett’s Anthias has a moderately compressed two toned body with a thick, pointed upper lip. The upper portion of the head and body are a bright yellow color with the lower portion of the body typically a magenta or purple to lavender color that fades on the bellly.  The iris is dark orange in color, and a dark orange band on the head runs from the snout to the lower part of the eye.  The dorsal fin is yellow tinged with lavender, the anal fin is pale lavender with a redish margin on the caudal penducal and the caudal fin is yellow with violet outer margins. The pelvic fins are a pale lavender color and the pectoral fins are transluscent.

Male Pseudanthias bartlettorum have more intensely colored violet bodies with brighter yellow along the back and upper caudal lobe.    Females tend to be more lavender in color with a yellow back and caudal fin.

Bartlett’s Anthias are best housed singly or in small harems of one male with 2 to 5 females in a mature well established FOWLR or reef aquarium of at least 80 gallon capacity, with a sandy or finely crushed coral substrate with plenty of live rock arranged into crevices, caves, and overhangs for them to hide among and plenty of free swimming space.

A powerhead or wavemaker will ensure the moderate water flow and proper oxygenation to mimic their natural deep water environment. An aquarium chiller is suggested to maintain water temperatures in their recommended range and because they are excellent jumpers; a tight fitting lid or glass cover is essential to prevent them from leaping out of the tank.

Pseudanthias bartlettorum are reef safe and totally compatible with corals and invertebrates.   They can be kept singly, as a mated pair, or in small groups of females. Although they can become aggressive towards conspecifics when kept in small groups in smaller aquariums; housing them in larger groups or as a single male with several females is recommended to mitigate aggression. For a larger school of five or more individuals, a 150 gallon tank is recommended.

Compatible tank mates include clownfish, blennies, dottybacks, tangs, wrasses, cardinals, and gobies.

Widespread captive rearing of Bartlett’s Anthias is limited but they have been bred by tropical fish keeping enthusiasts in large established 100 gallon plus systems decorated with copious amounts off mature live rock with heavy water flow.

They are protogynous hermaphrodites that spawn in harems where one male dominates several females, making them somewhat suitable for captive breeding. Pseudanthias bartlettorum are pelagic spawners that often spawn daily when conditioned with multiple feedings. Males perform courtship displays that start above the reef with some fin flicking and dive towards the bottom as they display their ventral fins. The eggs are released by the females into the water column and fertilized by the males usually during a daily feeding frenzy, close to dusk.

For the average hobbyist, raising the fry is nearly impossible. In the wild, they spawn in large groups where the eggs are swept away by strong currents. In an aquarium environment, the floating eggs are usually sucked into the filtration system or eaten by other fish in the tank before they can be collected. The microscopic newly hatched larvae are difficult to raise and require copepod nauplii that are hard to culture. For this reason the majority of specimens sold to tropical fish keeping enthusiats are wild caught.

In their natural habitat, Pseudanthias bartlettorum are constanyt plankton grazers. In an aquarium environment the biggest challenge to feeding them is their high metabolism.

Bartlett’s Anthias should be fed a variety of meaty foods like finely chopped seafood, vitamin enriched frozen mysis shrimp, brine shrimp, copepods, and amphipods 3 to 4 times a day.   Over time they may accept high quality flake foods but to keep them thriving, a refugium is highly recommended for cultivating a continuous food supply of nutritious live copepods and amphipods.

The Bartlett’s Anthias (Pseudanthias bartlettorum) is sporadically available to tropical fish keeping enthusiasts from a number of online wholesalers, trans shippers, and retailers, usually by special order at prices around $ $73.99 to $87.49 for Medium 1 1/2″ to 2 1/4″ Marshall Island specimens.

Bartlett’s Anthias (Pseudanthias bartlettorum)

Minimum Tank Size: 80 gallons
Aquarium Type: Reef or FOLR
Care Level: Moderate
Temperament: Semi Aggressive
Aquarium Hardiness: Hardy once acclimated
Water Conditions: 72-78° F, dKH 8 to 12, pH 8.1-8.4, sg 1.020-1.025
Max size: 3.5″”
Color Form: Orange, Purple, Red. Yellow
Diet: Carnivore
Compatibility: Reef
Origin: western Pacific Ocean
Family: Serranidae
Lifespan: 5 – 7 years
Aquarist Experience Level: Intermediate/Advanced

Blotched Anthias (Odontanthias borbonbius)

The Blotched Anthias (Odontanthias borbonius) known to tropical fish keeping enthsiasts as the Borbonius Lyretail Anthias, Borbonius Anthias, or Blotchy Anthias is a rare deep water species that is native to the Western Indian Ocean; specificially around the Mauritius and Réunion islands.

Blothched Anthias are are often found in loose groups or schools in the deep sea coral reefs of their range in areas with strong currents at depths from 200 and 300 feet all the way down to 1000 feet.

Blotched Anthias (Odontanthias borbonbius)

Blothched Anthias have a striking warm pink body color that is accented with irregular mottled shaped rustic gold markings and light lemon yellow colored fins. The anterior fin has distinct spines, while their dorsal and caudal fins terminate into filaments.

The Blotched Anthias exhibits sexual dimorphism with males being typically larger than females and displaying more vibranthly colored orange to red bodies with striking purple accents.   Females have more subdued coloration that often appeas as shades of red and yellow.  Adult males typically reach a maximum size of about 4 inches, while females are slightly smaller.

Juvenile Blotched Anthias have a more uniform red to pink body coloration with less prominent purple markings than adult males. Their colors become more intense as they attain adulthood.

Odontanthias borbonius are best housed singly or in small groups in a mature well established FOWLR or reef aquarium of at least 100 gallon capacity, with a sandy or finely crushed coral substrate and plenty of live rock arranged into crevices, caves, and overhangs for them to hide among. They need ample caves and shaded, lower light areas with strong to moderate water flow for proper oxygenation to mimic their natural deep water environment.  An aquarium chiller is recommended to keep water temperatures in their recommended range.

The Blotched Anthias is completely reef safe and compatible with corals and invertebrates in a reef environment. Generally peaceful, they can be kept singly, as a mated pair, or as small groups of females. Although they can become aggressive towards conspecifics when kept in small groups in smaller tanks; keeping them in larger groups or as a single male with several females is recommended to mitigate aggression.

Compatible tank mates that coexist peacefully with the Blotched Anthias include clownfish, blennies, dottybacks, tangs, and gobies.

The Blotched Anthias has been successfully bred in an aquarium environment at temperatures around 80°F in Palau, with successful rearing of larvae reported by Biota Palau.

Odontanthias borbonius are deep water protogynous hermaphrodites that spawn in harems, with dominant females transforming into males.   They are pelagic spawners that often spawn daily when conditioned with multiple feedings.  Males perform fin flicking displays and courtship dives starting above the reef and diving towards the bottom while displaying their ventral fins.   The eggs are released by the females and fertilized by the males as they are released into the water colum without further attention.   The voracious larvae eventually develop into small adults.

Breeding can be accomplished in a 75 to 120 gallon or larger aquarium kept at a temperature of 70-78°F and decorated with plenty of live rock.   Select a mated pair or small group of females and feed them 4 to 5 times a day with live foods to get them into breeding condition. Raising the water temperature to around 80°F will trigger spawning.

Larvae require a continuous supply of live micro zooplankton after their yolk sacs are absorbed. Start feeding Parvocalanus crassirostris to the larvae 3 to 4 times daily to maintain a high prey density. After day 10, switch to Brachionus plicatillis for the next 25 days and finally to newly hatched Artemia Nauplii and as the larvae grow, to Tisbe or Apocyclops.

Maintain prey density in the larvae tank. If they are not literally swimming in a dense cloud of copepod nauplii, they will starve. Adding live microalgae like Isochrysis galbana directly to the larval tank tints the water green which reduces larval stress, provides background contrast for hunting prey, and keeps the live copepods/rotifers nutritionally enriched.

In their natural habitat, Blotched Anthias feed on zooplankton and small crustaceans. In an aquarium environment they require a diverse range of foods to replicate their diet including high-quality marine pellets, frozen Mysis shrimp, brine shrimp, and live copepods. Regular, small feedings throughout the day help mimic their natural feeding behavior.

An attached refugium cultivating copepods and amphipods is highly recommended to provide a steady supply of nutritious live foods.

The Blotched Anthias (Odontanthias borbonius) is sporadically available to tropical fish keeping enthusiasts from a number of online wholesalers, trans shippers, and retailers, usually by special order at prices around $ 749.99 for small; 1″ to 13/4 specimens. They are expensive and seasonal with availability often limited to the winter months in the USA.

Blotched Anthias (Odontanthias borbonbius)

Minimum Tank Size: 100 gallons
Aquarium Type: Reef or FOLR
Care Level: Moderate
Temperament: Semi Aggressive
Aquarium Hardiness: Hardy when acclimated
Water Conditions: 72-78° F, dKH 8 to 12, pH 8.1-8.4, sg 1.023-1.025
Max size: 6″
Color Form: Pink, Orange, Purple, Yellow
Diet: Carnivore
Compatibility: Reef
Origin: Mauritius and Réunion islands
Family: Serranidae
Lifespan: 5 – 7 years
Aquarist Experience Level: Intermediate/Advanced

Striped Blenny(Meiacanthus grammistes)

The Striped Blenny(Meiacanthus grammistes) known to tropical fish keeping enthusiasts as the Striped Fang Blenny, Line-spot Harptail Blenny, Gammistes Blenny, or Striped Poison Fang Blenny is found in the Western Pacific Ocean and ranges from Australia’s Great Barrier Reef and the Coral Sea to the Ryukyu Islands.

The Striped Blenny is a solitary combtooth blenny species that is normally encountered alone or in close proximity to their den in reef environments characterized by rocky crevices and coral formations.  In areas where large numbers of striped blenny dens are found close to one another; pairs and even small harems can often be found inhabiting a single den.

Although the Striped Blenny is a solitary species that is usually found in the open ocean, it frequently travels into shallow saltwater and brackish water estuaries where it is commonly found darting amongst coral branches and rocky outcrops, seeking refuge in crevices.

The Striped Blenny has relatively large canine like teeth that protrude from the lower jaw.   Their unusual painless venom that they use to stun predators consists of a neuropeptide that is seen in cone snail venom, a lipase that is found in some scorpion species, and an opioid peptide.    The venom lowers the blood pressure of the predator and relaxes its jaws allowing a captured Striped Blenny to escape.

Striped Blenny(Meiacanthus grammistes)

The Striped Blenny has a stout body with a pointed snout, a long continuous dorsal fin, and a crown shaped caudal fin that in mature adults develops long filaments. The body color is white to platinum colored with a bright yellow area over the head that fades past the shoulders, and four thick black horizontal stripes that run from the forehead to the caudal peduncle tapering at the posterior into dots. The dots are larger over the caudal area and decrease in size into tiny spots over the rays of the tail. Males and females exhibit similar coloration and morphology.

The Striped Blenny is best kept in a FOWLR or reef tank of at least 30 gallon capacity with a sand or coralline gravel substrate and plenty of mature live rock arranged into caves, overhangs, and crevices for them to nest and hide among.   Meiacanthus grammistes require a tightly fitting lid on their tank and a lot of free swimming space with moderate water flow,  but otherwise are quite undemanding.

The Striped Blenny is a hardy, peaceful species that can be housed with other peaceful fish in a reef tank, however they may become territorial towards other blennies, gobies, or dartfish when housed in smaller tanks.    Compatible tank mates include Clownfish, (Ocellaris Clownfish), Royal Gramma (Gramma loreto), Firefish (Nemateleotris spp.), Banggai Cardinalfish (Pterapogon kauderni), Orchid Dottybacks (Pseudochromis fridmani), Pygmy Angelfish, etc.

Meiacanthus grammistes are considered reef safe and generally ignore corals and invertebrates however, when insufficient food is available, they have been known to occasionally nip at small-polyped stony corals.

The Striped Blenny has been bred in an aquarium environment however the larvae are difficult to raise. Pairs will frequently pair up, spawn and deposit tiny, adhesive, pinkish colored eggs along the walls of their den however, raising a brood in a home aquarium is next to impossible.

In their natural environment, the Striped Blenny feeds on a variety of crustaceans, zooplankton, algae and copepods.   In an aquarium environment, they readily accept a varied diet of fresh, frozen, or freeze dried brine shrimp, Mysis shrimp, frozen marine formulas for herbivores, chopped crustaceans, pellets, and high quality marine flakes.

The Striped Blenny(Meiacanthus grammistes) is widely available to tropical fish keeping enthusiasts as wild caught or captive bred specimens from a variety of online retailers, wholesalers, and transhippers at prices that vary on size and area of collection.

Approximate purchase sizes are: Small: 1″ to 2″; Medium: 2″ to 3″; Large: 3″ to 4″. Prices vary from $ 57.99 for medium Indonesian specimens to over $65.99.

Striped Blenny(Meiacanthus grammistes)

Minimum Tank Size: 30 gallon (55+ gallons for pairs)
Aquarium Type: Reef or FOWLR
Care Level: Moderate
Temperament: Semi-aggressive
Aquarium Hardiness: Hardy
Water Conditions: 72-78°F, dKH 8 – 12°, pH 8.1–8.4, sg 1.023-1.025
Max size: 5″
Color Form: Black, White, Yellow
Diet: Omnivore
Compatibility: Reef Safe
Origin: Philippines and Indonesia
Family: Blenniidae
Lifespan: 5 years or more
Aquarist Experience Level: Beginner/Intermediate

Kenya Tree coral (Capnella)

The Kenya Tree coral (Capnella) known to tropical fish keeping enthusiasts as the Capnella coral, Cauliflower coral, Colt coral, Taro Tree Coral, Tree Coral, Broccoli Soft Coral, Brown Cauliflower Coral, Soft Tree Coral, African Tree Coral and Nepthea coral is found throughout the Indo Pacific with a range that extends from the coast of Africa to the Western Pacific and into the Red Sea.

Kenya Tree coral is native to the warm waters of the Western Indian Ocean in the region of Kenya and Tanzania where they are common in shallow reefs with moderate water flow.

Although the Kenya Tree coral is generally found among the coral reef slopes of their range in clear shallow to deeper waters with strong tidal currents, they are quite adaptable and are also found in shadier spots closer to shore growing on rocks and coral rubble.

Kenya Tree coral (Capnella)

The Kenya Tree coral, like all species of Capnella are arborescent and form thick trunks with branches that resemble a tree branch, hence their common name.

Some of the species (listed below) are lobed and in areas with very strong currents, form flatter colonies with shorter branches.

Capnella arbuscula Verseveldt, 1977
Capnella australiensis (Thorpe, 1928)
Capnella bouilloni Verseveldt, 1976
Capnella erecta Verseveldt, 1977
Capnella fructosa
Capnella fungiformis Kükenthal, 1903
Capnella gaboensis Verseveldt, 1977
Capnella garetti Verseveldt, 1977
Capnella imbricata (Quoy & Gaimard, 1833)
Capnella johnstonei Verseveldt, 1977
Capnella lacertiliensis Macfadyen
Capnella parva Light, 1913
Capnella portlandensis Verseveldt, 1977
Capnella ramosa Light, 1913
Capnella sabangensis Roxas, 1933
Capnella shepherdi Verseveldt, 1977
Capnella spicata (May)
Capnella susanae Williams, 1988
Capnella thyrsoidea (Verrill, 1989)
Capnella watsonae Verseveldt, 1977

Kenya Tree coral (Capnella)

Capnella are generally colored gray with brown polyps, however, they are collected in a variety of color forms from Brown, Beige, Pink, Red, Purple, Green, etc.   Their color and the intensity of their colors is dependent on how much light they receive. The more intense the light, the lighter the color of the coral.

Pink Kenya Tree coral (Capnella)

Because the Kenya Tree coral is extremely adaptive and has the ability to thrive in a variety of environments, they are a common sight throught their range.

Although the Kenya Tree coral can be housed in reef tanks as small as 10 gallons, they are best kept in larger reef tanks of at least 50 gallon capacity with a sand or fine coralline gravel substrate and plenty of rubble or live rock for them to attach themselves to. They do well in the middle to bottom of the tank with low to moderate lighting, moderate to high indirect water flow, and adequate space to minimize overgrowth.

Kenya Tree coral (Capnella)

Capnella is semi aggressive towards other corals and will give off chemical toxins to ward off invasive competitors. Albiet somewhat invasive, it is a great addition to fill out rockwork.

Compatible tankmates for Kenyan Tree Coral include Firefish, Royal Gramma, Gobies, Clownfish, Cleaner Shrimp, and other peaceful species.

The Kenya Tree coral reproduces asexually by dropping off branches. When they are ready to reproduce, a distinct swelling will form at the bottom of a branch which then drops off to form a new colony. The dropped branch will quickly secure a new hold and eventually develop into a new colony. Dropped branches stick very quickly and will usually be firmly rooted in a day or less. Established colonies are able to bend and reattach to the rock by “creeping” and divison at their base.

In their natural environment, Kenya Tree corals obtain most of their nutrients from their zooxantheliae, symbiotic algae. Although they rely mostly on photosynthesis and dissolved organics for growth, they are also able to capture and consume small planktonic organizms with their polyps.

In an aquarium environment with moderate water flow, they benefit from weekly supplemental feedings of phytoplankton, zooplankton, baby brine shrimp, or marine snow mixed with water that they catch with their polyps.

The Kenya Tree coral (Capnella) is readily available in the aquarium trade to tropical fish ikeeping enthusiasts as wild caught and captive-bred specimens from a vareity of online retailers at modest prices.

Aquaculture of this coral has been successful, leading to increased availability and sustainability in the hobby.

Kenya Tree coral (Capnella)

Minimum Tank Size: 50 gallon
Tank Placement: Bottom to Middle
Water Flow: Moderate to Strong
Care Level: Easy
Aquarium Hardiness: Hardy
Temperament: Semi Aggressive
Toxicity: Yes, weak toxins
Invasive: yes
Water Conditions: 73 – 82°F, dKH 8 – 12°, pH 8.1–8.4, sg 1.023-1.025, Nitrate 2.5 – 10 ppm
Lighting: Moderate
Feeding: phytoplankton, zooplankton
Growth Rate : Fast
Color Form: Brown, Beige, Pink, Purple, Green, etc.
Diet: Photosynthetice, Filter Feeder
Origin: Indo-Pacific, Red Sea
Family: Nephtheidae
Lifespan: 5 – 7 years
Aquarist Experience Level: Beginner

Panda Goby (Paragobiodon lacunicolus)

The Panda Goby (Paragobiodon lacunicolus) known to tropical fish keeping enthusiasts as the Blackfin Coral Goby, Panda Clown Goby, Blackfin Goby, Panda Coral Goby, and Nano Goby is native to the islands of the Indo Australian Archipelago in the Western Pacific Ocean and ranges from the Seychelles and Chagos Islands to the Line and Tuamoto Islands; north to the Ryukyu and Bonin Islands; south to Lord Howe Island; and throughout Micronesia.

The Panda Goby is a small, peaceful, strikingly beautiful, specilized reef species that is normally encountered alone or in pairs on the shallow to moderate reef slopes and lagoons of their range in close proximity to specific types of branching corals where it feeds on zooplankton and coral mucus.

Although the Panda Goby is most commonly found in shallower lagoons and seward reefs living almost exclusively within the complex branches of small polyp stony (SPS) corals (particularly Pocillopora damicornis) that they use for shelter, nesting, and as a feeding ground; they have been collected at a depths from 3 to over 200 feet among Pocillopora damicornis and Seriatopora spp.

Panda Goby (Paragobiodon lacunicolus)

The Panda Goby (Paragobiodon lacunicolus) is a small, stocky fish with a relatively large head in proportion to its body length. They have fleshy papillae on the snout and cheek and scaleless areas on the head and abdomen that distinguish them from the Black Tear Goby (Paragobiodon lacrimae).   Paragobiodon lacunicolus have a pale yellow to white body color with rosy to orange hues on the head or cheeks and large, rounded deep black dorsal, anal, and caudal fins that lends to its panda like appearance. Males and females are visually indistinguishable.

The Panda Coral Goby is a small, shy, cryptic species that will thrive in a peaceful, well established reef tank of at least 10 gallon capacity with a live sand or fine coralline gravel substrate, plenty of live rock, and dense growths of healthy Acropora or Stylophora corals which they need to survive.   Without a suitable SPS coral host, Paragobiodon lacunicolus will be stressed, refuse to settle, and will ultimately perish.

Because Paragobiodon lacunicolus are very specilized fish that rarely leave the the SPS coral structure that they reside among, they are best suited for reef systems where they can be kept as pairs, in small groups, or with other small, non aggressive gobies and slow moving invertebrates that do not outcompete them for food.

Although the Panda Goby is entirely reef safe, their constant presence on the host Acropora may occasionally cause localized tissue recession on that specific coral branch.

The Panda Coral Goby has been successfully bred by specialized facilities in an aquarium environment.

Like the Black Clown Goby, the Panda Goby forms strong, permanent, socially monogamous pairs and rarely leave their host coral. They are hermaphroditec and have the unusual ability to change ther sex in both directions which helps stabilize their social structure within a coral colony.

When ready to breed, the pair prepares a nesting site by clearing a small area on a branch of SPS coral where the female deposits her tiny, adhesive eggs. Immediately after the female deposits her eggs, the male follows behind her and fertilizes them. The male vigorously guards the nest against potential predators while aerating the eggs with his pectoral fins and mouthing the eggs to clean them from detritus and remove any that are dead or infertile.

After a short incubation period of 4 to 5 days, the eggs hatch out into tiny larvae that are planktonic and drift along in the water column for several weeks before settling onto a new coral colony and developing into juvenile gobies. Under optimal conditions, spawning can occur as frequently as every few days.

In an aquarium environment, rearing the larval stage is challenging due to the minute size of the fry and their requirement for specialized live foods (rotifers and microalgae) during the long planktonic phase.

In their natural environment, the Panda Goby feeds primarily on tiny zooplankton and microorganisms picked from the water column and coral branches.

In an aquarium environment, due to their small size and shyness, they must be fed by a pipette small, high quality meaty foods like baby brine shrimp, minced frozen mysis shrimp, Calanus or Clyclops Rotifers, finely powdered flake foods, and other small frozen carnivore food preparations. They are slow deliberate eaters that require targeted feedings at least 2 to 3 times a day to ensure that they consume the meal before other fish steal it or the current disperses it.

The Panda Goby (Paragobiodon lacunicolus) is a rare specialty species that is only occasionally available to tropical fish keeping enthusiasts from highly specialized marine livestock importers or distributors who deal in rare or “by-catch” species from specific regions of the Indo Pacific where they are found.   Because of its unique appearancce, specialized collection and breeding requirements, they are usually expensive.

Prices for wild caught Paragobiodon lacunicolus vary by retailer, area of collection, and size but range in the area of $28.99 to $40.00 for 1/4″ to 3/4″ specimens.

Panda Goby (Paragobiodon lacunicolus)

Minimum Tank Size: 10 gallon
Aquarium Type: Reef
Care Level: Moderate
Temperament: Extremely Peaceful
Aquarium Hardiness: Hardy when acclimated
Water Conditions: 72-78° F, dKH 8 – 12°, pH 8.1–8.4, sg 1.020-1.025
Max size: 1″-1.5″
Color Form: Black, White, Yellow
Diet: Micro-carnivore/Planktivore
Compatibility: Reef Safe
Origin: Western Pacific Ocean
Family: Gobiidae
Lifespan: 4 – 5 years
Aquarist Experience Level: Intermediate

Black Clown Goby (Gobiodon atricirratus)

The Black Clown Goby (Gobiodon atricirratus) known to tropical fish keeping enthusiasts as the Azure Goby or Black Goby, is native to the Western Pacific Ocean, with a wide distribution throughout the coral rich waters of Indonesia, the Philippines, and Melanesia.

Like all members of the Gobiodon genus, the Black Clown Goby  is a cryptic, coral dwelling species that is found in shallow to moderate depths from 6 to 50 feet where they spend the majority of their lives perched among the protective branches of stony corals like Acropora and Stylophora that they utilize for shelter, as lookout posts, and as potential nesting sites.

Native to the Ceram Sea and broader Indo-Pacific, Gobiodon ceramensis  which is the same species as Gobiodon atricirratus, are most commonly encountered alone, in pairs, or in small groups “hopping” from coral branch to branch and nesting among the polyps.

.The Black Clown Goby is a shy, peaceful, inquisitive, and less common relative to the Citrinis Clown Goby and Green Clown Goby.   Because they are not strong swimmers and rarely venture into open water, they are usually spotted by divers  as they “hop” from one Acropora branch to another, amongst the coral reefs of their range.

The Black Clown Goby is prized by many tropical fish keeping enthusiasts for their inquisitive demeanor, uniform dark colors, and diminutive size for small reef tanks.

Black Clown Goby (Gobiodon atricirratus)

The Black Clown Goby is a small, stout, blunt headed species that has a deep, velvety black, dark brown, to dark purple body color with subtile, lighter vertical stripes or spots. Their body lacks scales and is coated in a mildly toxic mucus that protects them for most predators.

The Black Clown Goby is best housed in a mature FOWLR or preferrably a well established reef aquarium of at least 20 gallon capacity with a live sand or fine coralline gravel substrate, plenty of live rock, and a healthy growth of branching stony corals (preferably Acropora or Pocillopora) for them to perch on, hide among and nest.   A specialized host coral environment is essential for this species to truly thrive.

The Black Clown Goby is peaceful toward invertebrates and most other fish species but is highly territorial of their host coral and toward conspecifics.   Gobiodon atricirratus should be housed as the only clown goby is a system unless the tank is large enough to provide separate, distinct host corals for each individual fish.

Although they are generally reef safe, the Black Clown Goby may aggressively nip at the polyps of their host coral to clear a small area for perching or nesting.   This usually results in localized, temporary tissue recession on the coral.

Like many clown gobies, the Black Clown Goby has been successfully captive bred in an aquarium environment.   Commercial aquaculture has occured but is less common for this specific species.

Black Clown Gobies are often hermaphrodites and form strong, monogamous pair bonds.  When ready to breed, the pair will select a suitable spawning site, usually the underside of a branching coral like Acropora.   Both the male and female will strip a small patch of coral tissue and meticulously clean the chosen area using their mouths and fins to remove algae, detritus, or anything else from the surface.

The female will lay a clutch of adhesive eggs, which are attached to the prepared substrate, deep within the branches of the coral.  Immediately after the female lays her eggs, the male follows behind her and fertilizes them.  The male vigorously guards the nest against potential predators while aerating the eggs with his pectoral fins and mouthing the eggs to remove any that are dead or infertile.  The “mouthing” also prevents any fungus or disease from spreading through the mass of eggs.

The male tends to the eggs until they hatch out into small larvae.   Depending on water temperature, the incubation period can last anywhere from a few days to a week.    The tiny larvae are planktonic and drift along in the water column for a period before settling on the seafloor and developing into juvenile gobies.   Under optimal conditions, spawning can occur as frequently as every few days.

In an aquarium environment, rearing the larval stage is challenging due to the minute size of the fry and their requirement for specialized live foods during the planktonic phase.

In their natural environment, the Black Clown Goby feeds primarily on zooplankton and a variety of microorganisms.   In an aquarium environment, they are generally easy to feed but must be fed directly near it’s coral perch.

They are slow, deliberate eaters that will accept a varied diet of meaty and prepared frozen foods such as Mysis shrimp, vitamin enriched brine shrimp, Cyclops and Copepods, high quality marine pellets, and marine flakes.   Small frequent 2 to 3 times a day feedings are recommended to ensure they receive adequate nutrition without being outcompeted by other fish in the tank.

Black Clown Goby (Gobiodon atricirratus or Gobiodon azeus) is occasionally available to tropical fish keeping enthusiasts from a variety of online retailers, wholesalers, and transhippers as wild caught specimens from the Western Pacific.   They are generally less common than the Green or Yellow varieties.

Prices for the Black Clown Goby vary by retailer, area of collection, and size of fish but range in the area of $15.49 – $39.99.

Black Clown Goby (Gobiodon atricirratus)

Minimum Tank Size: 20 gallon (55 gallons for pairs)
Aquarium Type: Reef or FOWLR
Care Level: Difficult
Temperament: Peaceful
Aquarium Hardiness: Hardy when acclimated
Water Conditions: 75-81° F, dKH 8 – 12°, pH 8.1–8.4, sg 1.023-1.025
Max size: 1.5″-2″
Color Form: Black, Dark Brown, Dark Purple
Diet: Omnivore/Planktivore
Compatibility: Reef Safe with caution
Origin: Western Pacific Ocean
Family: Gobiidae
Lifespan: 4 – 6 years
Aquarist Experience Level: Beginner/Intermediate

Court Jester Goby (Koumansetta rainfordi)

The Court Jester Goby (Koumansetta rainfordi) known to tropical fish keeping enthusiasts as Rainford’s Goby or Old Glory Goby is found in the Western Pacific .

Koumansetta rainfordi‘s range extends from the southern Great Barrier Reef in Australia to Tonga; north to Taiwan and the Philippines, and throughout Indonesia, Papua New Guinea, the Marshall Islands, Solomon Islands, and Fiji.

The Court Jester Goby is a solitary, somewhat social species that is most frequently encountered hovering over the sandy sea bottoms and mud flats of the coral reefs of their range, alone or in small groups, at depths from 6 to over 98 feet, where they forage on benthic algae, copepods, and tiny invertebrates.

Court Jester Goby (Koumansetta rainfordi)

Rainford’s Goby has a compressed, elongated, vibrant olive green to charcoal gray colored body, with five dark blue edged bright orange to red horizontal stripes, and a row of white spots on the upper back. There is a yellow edged black spot on the second dorsal fin and a black spot on the upper base of the caudal fin.

The Court Jester Goby is a timid, peaceful species that can be housed alone in a mature FOWLR or Nano reef tank of at least 20 gallon capacity, or in small groups in larger aquariums of 100 gallons or more with a live sand substrate and plenty of live rock arranged into caves, crevices, and overhangs for them to hide among.

As long as they don’t have to share a small tank with their own kind, Koumansetta rainfordi are rarely aggressive to other species. Avoid keeping them with hawkfish and dottybacks.

The Court Jester Goby  ignores corals, is completely reef safe, and will quickly clean up any pesky hair algae in a reef aquarium.   In fact, many wild caught specimens seem to want nothing but hair algae in their diet and have starved to death without substantial amounts in the tank.

The good news is that modern tropical fish keeping enthusiasts have live copepods readily available to keep wild caught specimens healthy.   Additionally, aquacultured specimens that are less finicky about their diet, hardier, and even more social are readily available from a variety of retailers.

The Court Jester Goby can spawn in an aquarium environment but rearing the fry is extremely difficult.

In their natural habitat, the Court Jester Goby feeds on filamentous algae and small crustaceans. In a mature aquarium with plenty of live sand, live rock and algae for them to graze on their diet should consist of filamentous algae, live and frozen brine shrimp, chopped krill, finely chopped squid, Mysis shrimp, frozen herbivore foods, etc.

The Court Jester Goby (Koumansetta rainfordi) is available to tropical fish keeping enthusiasts as wild caught or captive bred specimens from a variety of online retailers, wholesalers, and transhippers at prices that vary by size and area of collection.

Approximate purchase sizes are: Small: 3/4″ to 1″; Medium: over 1″ to 2″; Large: to 3″. Prices range from $29.99 for small Coral Sea specimens to $45.99 or more for large Indonesian specimens.

Court Jester Goby (Koumansetta rainfordi)

Minimum Tank Size: 20 gallon (100+ gallons for pairs)
Aquarium Type: Reef or FOWLR
Care Level: Moderate
Temperament: Peaceful
Aquarium Hardiness: Hardy
Water Conditions: 72-78°F, dKH 8 – 12°, pH 8.1–8.4, sg 1.020-1.025
Max size: 3″
Color Form: Blue, Green, Orange
Diet: Omnivore
Compatibility: Reef Safe
Origin: Coral Sea, Indo-Pacific, Fiji
Family: Gobiidae
Lifespan: 5 – 7 years
Aquarist Experience Level: Intermediate

Hillstream Loach (Beaufortia kweichowensis)

The Hillstream Loach (Beaufortia kweichowensis) known to tropical fish keeping enthusiasts as the Butterfly Algae Eater, Butterfly Hillstream Loach, Hong-Kong Pleco, Butterfly loach, Butterfly Pleco, Chinese Butterfly Loach, Chinese Hillstream Loach and Chinese Sucker is found in the fast flowing inland rivers and streams of China, Southeast Asia, and India.

Known from the Xi River in China; the Hillstream Loach prefers cool, fast moving, oxygen rich waters with rocky substrates where they can be seen clinging to smooth rocks with their suction like bellies or cruising along the bottom in search of algae and biofilm.

Beaufortia kweichowensis is a shy, peaceful, bottom dwelling species that have a sucker type mouth with short, tiny barbells, flat undersides, and a flattened tapered body with wing like pectoral fins that enable them to cling to rocks and other smooth surfaces in the fast flowing rivers and streams of their range.

Hillstream Loach (Beaufortia kweichowensis)

The Hillstream loach has a light brown to grayish yellow body color with thick black protruding stripes that become more linear on the dorsal and caudal fins. A more common variety called the Spotted Loach, has small spots over the body and pectoral fins.

The Hillstream Loach can be housed in a tank as small as 20 gallons but is better suited for a tank of at least 55 gallons with a sandy substrate covered with various sizes of smooth river rocks and pebbles made into hiding spots and caves, and decorated with some driftwood.   Plants like Anubias or Java Moss can be included for shelter and biofilm growth.

Because the Hillstream Loach requires cooler water temperatures and a strong current to thrive, an aquarium chiller along with at least one power head is recommended to replicate their natural environment. Some tropical fish keeping enthusiasts add floating or rooted plants that tolerate medium to low light for decoration.

The Hillstream Loach does best in small groups of 3 to 4 individuals and get along well with almost all non aggressive species like barbs, tetras, rasboras, and catfish.

Suitable tankmates include White Cloud Mountain Minnows, Borneo Suckers, Cherry Barbs, Danios, Neon Tetras, Guppies, Corydoras, small Plecos, and Nerite snails.

Although Hillstream Loaches have been bred in an aquarium environment, determining when and how they will breed is extremely challenging.

Beaufortia kweichowensis are egg layers that require pristine water conditions, a well cycled, well established tank with fast moving water, and specific water parameters to breed.

Once an acceptable environment is established with a suitable spawning site such as a smooth rock or flat stone, introduce the breeding pair. Because Hillstream Loaches are not known for the breeding habits in an aquarium environment, it is impossible to predict when or how they will spawn. Spawning can be encouraged by increasing the water flow and feeding the pair live or frozen foods.

When ready to spawn, the male will dance around the female to get her attention. If she is interested, she will stay near the male and together construct a nest by digging into the substrate. The female will lay her eggs in the nest or on a flat surface where it is fertilized by the male. Eggs typically hatch out in 4 to 6 days and the small fry will be free swimming in about a week or so. The tiny fry can be fed infusoria and newly hatched brine shrimp until the are able to forage on their own.

In their natural environment, Hillstream Loaches feed on algae and biofilm on the surfaces of the rocks. In an aquarium environment, they can be fed quality algae wafers, blanched vegetables like zucchini or spinach, and occasionally some protein like brine shrimp, frozen bloodworms or daphnia. Small portions should be offered in small amounts throughout the day instead of one big meal.

The Hillstream Loach (Beaufortia kweichowensis) is available to tropical fish keeping enthusiasts from a variety of retailers and online sellers at approximate purchase sizes: 1″ – 2 1/2″ with prices starting at $14.99 – $34.99. Individuals have variable color and shape depending on their sex, age, and area of collection.

Hillstream Loach (Beaufortia kweichowensis)

Minimum Tank Size: 20 gallons
Care Level: Moderate
Temperament: Peaceful
Aquarium Hardiness: Hardy
Water Conditions: 68°F-75°F, 6.5 – 7.5, 5-12 dGH
Max. Size: 3”
Color Form: Brown, Black, Tan
Diet: Omnivore
Compatibility: Good community tank fish
Origin: China
Family: Balitoridae
life span of about 5-7 years
Aquarist Experience Level: Intermediate/Expert

Hi Fin Red Banded Goby (Stonogobiops nematodes)

The Hi Fin Red Banded Goby (Stonogobiops nematodes) known to tropical fish keeping enthusiasts as the Striped Goby, Blackray Shrimp Goby, Yellow Nose Goby, Filament-finned prawn-goby, Antenna Goby, High-fin Goby, Red-banded Goby, and Barber-pole Goby is native to the western Pacific and Indian Ocean from the Seychelles to the Philippines, and Bali.

The Hi Fin Red Banded Goby is usually encountered in pairs hovering just above the bottom of the deep coastal reef slopes and sandy flats of their range at depths from 49 to over 150 feet.   They are normally seen in close proximity to the entrance of their burrows that they often share with Pistol (alpheid) shrimps among the sandy rubble substrate.   The majority of their time is spent searching for scraps of food in the water column as they hover about two inches above their escape hole.   When startled they will slowly retreat towards their hole or quickly dart inside until the perceived danger is gone.

Stonogobiops nematodes is one of several species that form symbiotic partnerships with the almost blind Randall’s Pistol Shrimp (Alpheus randalli).    The shrimp digs and maintains the burrow, while the goby keeps watch for predators.   When the shrimp is working on the burrow, it stays in contact with the goby with it’s antennae.   When the goby detects a predator, the quivering motion of its caudal fin alerts the shrimp to immediately retreat into the burrow, quickly followed by the goby.   The shrimp closes the entrance to the burrow at night, leaving only one entrance open at any give time.  Alpheus randalli seldom emerge from their burrows without close contact with the goby.

Hi Fin Red Banded Goby (Stonogobiops nematodes)

The Hi Fin Red Banded Goby has a yellow head and a silver-white body with distinct dark brown diagonal stripes across the body.   Both sexes have a striking pointed dorsal fin that increases in size and becomes more pronounced as they grow into adulthood.   This elongated fin is the most obvious distinguishing feature between the Hi Fin Red Banded Goby and its close cousin, the Yellow Snout Goby (S. xanthorhinica).   Males and females are virtually indistinguishable.

The Hi Fin Red Banded Goby is best housed in a reef or passive FOWLR aquarium of at least 10 gallon capacity, with a deep substrate of small grain coral sand mixed with larger particles of coral rubble for them to burrow into and plenty of live rock for them to hide among. A tightly fitting tank cover is recommend to keep them from jumping out of the tank when startled.

The Hi Fin Red Banded Goby is a shy, docile species that is best kept as mated pairs when possible.   Their passiveness makes them a perfect tankmate for delicate species like sea horses, pipefish, and the red and white barred shrimp (Alpheus randalli). Because other fish, corals, and invertebrates are normally left alone by Stonogobiops nematodes, they are an ideal choice for reef tanks.

The Hi Fin Red Banded Goby can occasionally display aggression towards other tank tankmates by opening its mouth and yawning at them, however, this is mostly show. Individual males may actually fight when housed in aquariums smaller than about 50 gallons.

Mated Stonogobiops nematodes pairs are very rare and difficult to acquire.   Although they have spawned in a home aquarium environment, there have been no reports from tropical fish keeping enthusiasts of successfully rearing the larvae past settlement.    Prior to spawning, the belly of the female becomes noticeably swollen with eggs.   Spawning usually occurs inside a cave or under a rock where an egg mass is deposited by the female and fertilized by the male. Depending on water temperature, the fertilized eggs hatch out within 5 or 6 days. The small larvae take about a month or so to undergo metamorphosis.

In their natural environment, the Hi Fin Red Banded Goby feeds on zooplankton and other small foods drifting in the water column. In an aquarium environment, they will consume a wide variety of meaty foods including Mysis shrimp, vitamin enriched brine shrimp, finely chopped krill, chopped prawns, carnivore pellets, chopped table shrimp, etc. If they are reluctant to feed when first introduced into the tank, use a turkey baster to direct the offering to where the goby is hiding. Feeding small portions 3 to 4 times a day is recommended.

The Hi Fin Red Banded Goby (Stonogobiops nematodes) is available to tropical fish keeping enthusiasts as wild caught specimens from online retailers, wholesalers, and transhippers.   Prices for approximate purchase sizes Small: 1/2″ to 1″; Medium: 1″ to 1-1/2″; Large: 1-1/2″ to 2″ vary from $ 39.99 for small specimens to over $ 69.99 for large.

Hi Fin Red Banded Goby (Stonogobiops nematodes)

Minimum Tank Size: 10 gallon (55 gallons for pairs)
Aquarium Type: Reef or FOLR
Care Level: Moderate
Temperament: Peaceful
Aquarium Hardiness: Hardy
Water Conditions: 72-78° F, dKH 8 – 12°, pH 8.1–8.4, sg 1.020-1.025
Max size: 2.5″
Color Form: Brown, White, Yellow
Diet: Carnivore
Compatibility: Reef Safe
Origin: Indo Pacific
Family: Gobiidae
Lifespan: 5 years
Aquarist Experience Level: Intermediate

Reticulated Hillstream Loach (Sewellia lineolata)

The Reticulated Hillstream Loach (Sewellia lineolata) known to tropical fish keeping enthusiasts as the Spotted Sucker, Tiger Hillstream Loach, Gold Ring Butterfly Sucker, Butterfly Hillstream Loach, or Spotted Loach is found among the shallow riffles, river rapids, and the slower moving stream pools in Vietnam, Laos, and Cambodia.

The Reticulated Hillstream Loach is a hardy, peaceful species that can tolerate a wide range of water parameters.   In their natural Vietnamese environment of densely rock strewn riffles with sparse vegetation; heavy rainfalls frequently occur that stirs up sediment causing wide fluctuations in water conditions. Sewellia lineolata are hardy enough to easily survive these wide ranging environmental conditions.

Reticulated Hillstream Loach (Sewellia lineolata)

The Reticulated Hillstream Loach has a streamlined body shape that resembles a miniature stingray and a flat underside with horizontal wing like fins that enable them to tightly grip the smooth rocks and withstand the rushing rapids of their environment.

They have a brown to light gray body color covered with light colored spots and dark brown to black reticulated striped patterns.

The Reticulated Hillstream Loach is a peaceful species that is best kept in groups of 3 or more individuals in a well established tank of at least 30 gallon capacity, with a sandy substrate covered with a dense layer of varied sized river rocks, some driftwood, and a few plants to replicate their natural environment.    Hillstream Loaches can easily climb out of your aquarium, so use a tight fitting aquarium hood or top.

Although they prefer good water quality with highly oxygenated water to thrive and a good filtration system, a powerhead to provide a strong current, and regular water changes are highly recommended; the Reticulated Hillstream Loach has been successfully housed and bred in hot water tanks with clown loaches, unheated goldfish setups, and even heavily planted tanks with gentle sponge filters, without any problems.

Although all species of Hillstream Loaches do well in community setups, males will occasionally spar with each other if the tank is too small or doesn’t have enough cover.

The Reticulated Hillstream Loach will get along with most similarly sized community fish. They can be kept with goldfish, livebearers, shrimp, snails, tetras, danios, and other schooling fish without any problems.

Suitable tankmates include Borneo Suckers, White Cloud Mountain Minnows, Danios, Cherry Barbs, Corydoras, and Nerite snails.   All these species are peaceful fish that have similar water requirements to Reticulated Hillstream Loaches

Although the Reticulated Hillstream Loach can be bred in an aquarium environment, it is difficult.   Because most Sewellia lineolata are sold to tropical fish keeping enthusiasts from retailers as juveniles,  it is difficult to sex a pair.     In general, females have a wider head and a plumper body.    Males have a more jagged silhouette at the pectoral fins near their shoulders.    The best way to determine a pair for breeding purposes is to purchase six or more and watch for two to pair off.

Place a breeding pair in an established aquarium with plenty of rocks with algae, mulm, and infusoria and ensure that they get plenty of food.    When ready to breed, the male does a little dance and the pair will smooth out a bed in the gravel to lay their eggs.   The eggs hatch out in a few days into to tiny fry that can be fed infusoria, microworms, vinegar eels, baby brine shrimp and powered fry foods.    Cover your pre filter with a sponge to prevent any fry from being sucked up or collect the fry into a breeder box to keep them from predation.

In their natural environment, the Reticulated Hillstream Loach uses its sucker like mouth to feed on algae, small crustaceans, detritus, and other organisms living on the rocks in the river bottom.   In an established aquarium environment they will scrape off anything that grows on the rocks, driftwood, plant leaves, or walls of the tank including hair algae, diatom algae, and even the dreaded black beard algae.    However, supplemental feedings of high quality sinking carnivore pellets, frozen spirulina, algae wafers, freeze dried bloodworms, tubifex, brine shrimp and blanched vegetables are recommended, particularly if you plan to breed them.

The Reticulated Hillstream Loach (Sewellia lineolata) is available to tropical fish keeping enthusiasts from a variety of retailers and online sellers at approximate purchase sizes: 1″ – 2 1/2″ with prices starting at $ 14.99

Reticulated Hillstream Loach (Sewellia lineolata)

Minimum Tank Size: 30 gallons
Care Level: Moderate
Temperament: Peaceful
Aquarium Hardiness: Hardy
Water Conditions: 64-78° F, KH 10-15, pH 6.5 -7.8
Max. Size: 3”
Color Form: Brown, Black, Green
Diet: Omnivore
Compatibility: Good community tank fish
Origin: Southeast Asia
Family: Balitoridae
life span of about 8 – 10 years
Aquarist Experience Level: Intermediate

Lawnmower Blenny (Salarias fasciatus)

The Lawnmower Blenny (Salarias fasciatus) known to tropical fish keeping enthusiasts as the Algae Blenny, Sailfin Blenny, Sailfin Algae Blenny, Rock Blenny, or Jewelled Rockskipper is native to Indo Pacific waters, including the Red Sea, the western Pacific Ocean, and the Great Barrier Reef in Australia.

Ranging from East Africa and the Red Sea, to Samoa and the Islands of Micronesia, the Lawnmower Blenny is a solitary species that is most often found on rocky shorelines and shallow coral reef flats with abundant growths of algae at depths from 1 to 30 feet.

The Lawnmower Blenny has an olive to brown, green, or gray elongated body; with dark bars, numerous round and elongated white spots, and an abundance of pale spots, anteriorly running dark streaks, and several darker bands that enables them to blend into their surroundings as they comb for algae.

Lawnmower Blenny (Salarias fasciatus)

The Jewelled Rockskipper has a large mouth, an oversize head covered with blue or black dots, dorsal and anal fins attached to the caudal fin, broad fanlike pectoral fins, and cirri (antanae) on their head between their black pronounced eyes. There are usually dark longitudinal lines on the front part of the body, and small bright blue spots with dark outlines along the rear part of the body that give them their Jewelled Rockskipper moniker.

Male Salarias fasciatus often have longer and more pronounced spines on their anal fins, while females tend to be slightly larger and rounder.

Like the Midas Blenny (Ecsenius midas), Salarias fasciatus can change colors depending on their mood.

The Lawnmower Blenny is a peaceful species that can be housed in a mature FOWLR or well established reef aquarium of at least 30 gallon capacity with a coralline gravel or live sand substrate, and plenty of live rock with healthy populations of microalgae and macroalgae arranged into crevices, ledges, caves, and overhangs for them to perch and graze on.   Adequate lighting and a healthy algae population is crucial to fulfill their dietary needs.

Although the Lawnmower Blenny is considered reef safe, they are known to occasionally pick on small polyp stony corals and clam mantles in smaller tanks or when food is scarce.

The Lawnmower Blenny is generally peaceful towards other species unless the tank mate is similar in shape or appearance. It is best to house them alone unless kept in larger aquariums or as mated pairs.

The do well in mature FOWLR tanks with other peaceful species like Dottybacks, Flame Hawkfish, Dwarf Angelfish like the Coral Beauty, Anthias, Yellow Boxfish, Kole Tangs, etc.

Because they need a diet rich in algae and biofilm to breed and limited information about their spawning behavior is known; the Lawnmower Blenny is not commonly bred in captivity. The additional challenge to breeding is their aggression towards their own species. They are egg layers that produce adhesive eggs and plaggic larvae.

In their natural environment, the Lawnmower Blenny feeds on detritus, algae, and biofilm which they scrape from hard surfaces in the shallow reefs and lagoons that they reside in.   Their diet includes decomposed organic matter, various types of filamentous algae and diatoms, small invertebrates and shelled protozoa, and occasionally sponges, small snails, and fish eggs.

In a well established aquarium with plenty of biofilm, live rock and algae growth, their diet should be supplemented with vegetable matter, spirulina, marine algae, and frozen herbivore preparations. Dried nori can be provided when natural algae is scarce.

A steady diet of microalgae and macroalgae is essential for the health and well being of this species.

The Lawnmower Blenny (Salarias fasciatus) is commonly available to tropical fish keeping enthusiasts as wild caught and aquacultured specimens from a variety of local aquarium shops and online retailers, wholesalers, and transhippers at prices that vary on size and area of collection.

Approximate purchase sizes: Small: 1″ to 1-1/2″; Medium: 1-1/2″ to 2-1/2″; Large: 2-1/2″ to 3-1/2″; XLarge: 3-1/2″ to 5″

Prices start at $22.49 for small, to $38.99 for medium specimens from the Philippines.

Lawnmower Blenny (Salarias fasciatus)

Minimum Tank Size: 30 gallon (90+ gallons for pairs)
Aquarium Type: FOWLR or Reef
Care Level: Easy
Temperament: Peaceful
Aquarium Hardiness: Hardy
Water Conditions: 72-78° F, dKH 8 – 12°, pH 8.1-8.4, sg 1.020-1.025
Max size: 5″
Color Form: Assorted, Green, Tan
Diet: Herbivore
Compatibility: Reef Safe
Origin: Indo Pacific
Family: Blenniidae
Lifespan: 2 – 5 years
Aquarist Experience Level: Beginner