Marbled Hatchetfish (Carnegiella strigata) have an enormous range that extends throughout Amazonian Bolivia, Brazil, Peru, Columbia, the Río Orinoco system in Venezuela, and some coastal drainages in Guyana and Suriname.

Marbled Hatchetfish are exclusive to acidic blackwater environments characterized by thick, overhanging vegetation and substrates covered with fallen branches, tree roots, and various types of leaf litter.   They seem to thrive in the tannin stained brownish colored water littered with decomposing organic matter.

The Marbled Hatchetfish is easily distinguished from other members of the genus by its larger adult size and it’s dark, marbled color pattern that appears as a series of dark and light stripes running diagonally across the body directly below the lateral line.    Adult females are rounder bodied and slightly larger than males.

Their color patterns are variable and different populations are known to exhibit differences in body depth and the number of anal fin rays which led to the description of several subspecies.

Marble Hatchet (Carnegiella strigata)

Carnegiella strigata fasciata was described from Tabatinga, Brazil, near the ‘Três Fronteiras’ where the borders of Brazil, Peru and Colombia meet, Carnegiella strigata vesca from the Mazarumi River, Guyana, Carnegiella strigata marowini from the Marowini River, Suriname and Carnegiella strigata surinamensis from an unnamed swamp in northern Suriname.

These subspecies were described as ‘forms’ and recognized as being two distinct species; Carnegiella strigata strigata with an essentially ‘V’-shaped color pattern found in Guyana, Suriname and parts of the Amazon, and Carnegiella strigata fasciata with a ‘Y’-shaped color pattern found throughout the Amazon.   Other color forms exist in the Rios Negro and Orinoco.

Marbled Hatchetfish are very peaceful but because of their small size and timid nature do not make good candidates for a community tank.    If they must be kept in a community environment, at least 10 or more should be housed together along with similarly sized tetras, peaceful characids and smaller sized loricariid or callichthyid catfish.  When kept in larger groups they tend to become bolder and exhibit more of their natural behavior.

Ideally, Marbled Hatchetfish should be kept in a densely planted tank with a dark substrate of sand or fine gravel, some floating plants
for the fish to congregate, and lots of surface area.   Dried leaf litter and driftwood branches can be added to provide the colonies of microbes that seem to be beneficial to the fry and adults.    A small power head should also be provided for some water movement.

The Marbled Hatchetfish is the easiest to breed if you can identify a breeding pair.   There is no difference between sexes except when females become gravid with eggs.   If you can identify a pair, separate them to a quiet, sheltered, breeding tank with soft, acidic water and plenty of floating vegetation.

After the eggs are laid among the floating plants, remove the parents or the eggs will be eaten.

Feed the fry infusoria or liquid food for a few days until they are able to accept newly hatched baby brine
shrimp, rotifers, or finely crushed flake food.

The Marbled Hatchetfish is a predator that feeds on aquatic and terrestrial insects, invertebrates, and other zooplankton in their natural habitat.    In an aquarium environment, they will accept small dried floating foods but prefer regular meals of live or frozen daphnia, Monia, brine shrimp, bloodworms, mosquito larvae, baby crickets or Drosophila fruit flies.

Marbled Hatchetfish are common in the aquarium hobby and are usually available for sale when they reach 3/4″ to 1 1/4″ in size.

Marble Hatchet (Carnegiella strigata)

 
Minimum Tank Size: 20 gallons
Care Level: Moderate
Temperament: Peaceful
Water Conditions: 75-81° F, KH 10-18, pH 5.5-7.5
Max. Size: 2”
Color Form: Green, Orange, Red, Tan
Diet: Carnivore
Compatibility: Excellent in peaceful community tanks
Origin: South America
Family: Gasteropelecidae
Lifespan: 2-5 years
Aquarist Experience Level: Advanced

The Blackwing Hatchetfish (Carnegiella marthae) is also known to tropical fish keeping enthusiasts as the Marthae Silver Hatchet.

It is found locally in ‘ Caño de Quiribana, near Caicara, Venezuela and is thought to range throughout the upper Orinoco drainage in Venezuela and the rio Negro drainage in Amazonian Brazil with occasional specimens collected from the rio Madeira.   It may also occur in Columbia in the Rio Vichada and Rio Inirida tributaries.

Blackwing Hatchetfish (Carnegiella marthae)

Blackwinged Hatchetfish have convex bodies with a deep ventral profile.    Their anal fin is set back and their wing like pectoral fins often extend to half of the fish’s body length.   Their general body color is silver with black patches and stripes covering most of the body, and they have a gold stripe that stretches horizontally from the gill cover to the base of the tail.   This species of hatchetfish grows to around 1 1/2″ in length.

The Blackwing Hatchetfish is usually found in small shoals in slow moving to stagnant blackwater environments characterized by thick, overhanging, riparian vegetation and substrates covered with tree roots, fallen branches, and leaf litter.

Because they are such a gregarious species, they should be housed with at least 12 or more of their own
kind in an aquarium environment.

Blackwing Hatchetfish make excellent candidates for a South American blackwater biotope setup.   They need a tank with a lot of surface area and a dark sand or fine gravel substrate that is densely planted and covered with leaf litter to maintain the tannin level.   Some driftwood or bogwood along with some floating plants should be added to keep the fish from jumping and to provide a location for spawning.

Driftwood roots, branches and leaf litter will also produce colonies of beneficial microbes that act as a valuable secondary food source for the fry and protect the fish from disease.

Blackwing Hatchetfish require excellent water quality, a tightly fitting aquarium cover to keep them from “flying” out of the tank, and a power head to provide some water movement to keep them healthy. They are extremely sensitive to inferior water quality conditions.

Although the Blackwing Hatchetfish is a very peaceful species; because of its rather timid nature and small size, it does not make an ideal community tank fish.

When kept in a community environment, they should only be housed with like sized peaceful characids, dwarf cichlids (like Apistogramma spp.), and smaller callichthyid or loricariid catfish.

Although it is suscepted that Blackwing Hatchetfish breed like Marbled Hatchetfish (Carnegiella strigata), no successful breeding has ever been documented in an aquarium environment.

In their natural habitat, Carnegiella marthae are primarily a predatory species that feed on terrestrial and aquatic invertebrates and other zooplankton, at or near the surface of the water.   In an aquarium environment, they will accept dried flake foods, micro pellets, and freeze dried bloodworms or tubifex, however they should also be given frozen or live daphnia, brine shrimp, baby crickets, Drosophila fruit flies, mosquito larvae, and any other insects that might be available.

Blackwing Hatchetfish are commonly available to tropical fish keeping enthusiasts when they are 1″ to 1 1/2″ in size.

Blackwing Hatchetfish (Carnegiella marthae)

Minimum Tank Size: 20 gallons
Care Level: Moderate
Temperament: Peaceful
Water Conditions: 73-81° F, KH 2-4, pH 5.5-6.5
Max. Size: 2”
Color Form: Silver, Black, Orange, Red, Tan
Diet: Carnivore
Compatibility: Excellent in peaceful community tanks
Origin: Venezuela
Family: Gasteropelecidae
Lifespan: 5 years
Aquarist Experience Level: Advanced

The Spotted Hatchetfish (Gasteropelecus maculatus) is found on the Pacific slopes of Panama, and in the Pacific and Atlantic drainages of Colombia, to the Maracaibo basin of Venezuela.

The Spotted Hatchetfish (Gasteropelecus maculatus) is one of three known species of the genus Gasteropelecus.    The other two species which are also often kept in an aquarium environment are Gasteropelecus sternicla and Gasteropelecus levis.

Like all hatchetfish, the Spotted Hatchetfish has a keeled body shape and an enlarged, highly developed pectoral fin musculature attached to the sternum that resembles the head of a hatchet, hence it’s common name.

Spotted Hatchetfish (Gasteropelecus maculatus)

The ventral fins are very small and the back is fairly straight. Their wing like pectoral fins are transparent and often measure up to one half of the overall body length of the fish.

Their overall body color is silver with an olive brown back and small black spots that cover mostly the mid sections and upper body of the fish. During spawning season, the females are uaully plumper in appearance.

Tropical fish keeping enthusiasts commonly categorize all Gasteropelecids as “freshwater hatchetfishes” which sometimes makes proper identification a challenge.

Like most Gasteropelecids, the Spotted Hatchetfish is a shy, peaceful, and somewhat nervous shoaling species that spend most of their time close to or just under the surface of the water where they feed primarily on terrestrial insects, mosquito larvae, worms, and small crustaceans.

All freshwater hatchetfish are known for their ability to leap from the water and glide several yards to escape predation and catch flying insects close to the surface.

Spotted Hatchetfish should be housed with at least 6 or more of their own species in an aquarium with a lot of water surface area.   Because of their skittishness, they should be kept in a densely planted tank with some floating plants, a moderate amount of current and a tightly fitting top.   An Amazon setup with some driftwood, leaf litter and a sandy substrate suits this fish well.

When housed in a community tank, they do well with other peaceful species lik tetras, smaller plecos, Corydoras and the smaller bottom dwelling cichlids.

Spotted Hatchetfish have been bred in an aquarium environment.   The fish will spawn among floating plants and should be removed as soon as spawning is completed.   The tiny fry should be initially be fed infusoria until they are able to accept baby brine shrimp and later, daphnia
.

In the wild, Spotted Hatchetfish eat insects as their main diet.   In an aquarium environment, they sometimes balk at eating dried floating flakes but over time they will usually accept them as well as floating micro pellets.   They should be offered a varied diet that also includes Drosophila fruit flies, daphnia, mosquito larvae, and frozen or freeze dried bloodworms. Several small portions should be fed over the course of a day.

Spotted Hatchetfish are readily available in most tropical fish keeping shops at a size of 3/4″-1″ in length.

Spotted Hatchetfish (Gasteropelecus maculatus)

Minimum Tank Size: 20 gallons
Care Level: Moderate Te
mperament: Peaceful
Water Conditions: 73-82° F, 2 – 15 dGH, pH 6.0-7.5
Max. Size: 2 1/2”
Color Form: Silver
Diet: Omnivore
Compatibility: Excellent in peaceful community tanks
Origin: Eastern Panama to Western Colombia
Family: Gasteropelecidae
Lifespan: 5 years Aquarist
Experience Level: Advanced

Cochu’s Blue Tetra (Boehlkea fredcochui) is also known to tropical fish keeping enthusiasts as the Blue King Tetra, and erroneously as the Blue Tetra.

This species, Boehlkea fredcochuik, has been absent from the aquarium trade for many years, with most tropical fish keeping shops mistakenly selling the Blue Tetra (Knodus borki), as Cochu’s Blue Tetra (Boehlkea fredcochui).

Cochu’s Blue Tetra is an extremely active shoaling fish that is found in the Amazon river basin; specifically the Rio Maranon in Peru, South America.

Cochu’s Blue Tetra (Boehlkea fredcochui) School

Cochu’s Blue Tetra has a silver and blue body with a blueish horizontal stripe at the lateral line and a dark splotch at the caudal fin.   They have a concave tail and transparent fins.   Females are are generally less colorful and plumper than males.

Cochu’s Blue Tetras are extremely active by nature and in order to minimize aggression, need a more spacious tank than most other tetras of the same size.   Although aggression is generally limited to conspecifics, when confined in smaller tanks,  they tend to harass smaller fish regardless of species.

A densely planted 30 gallon or larger tank with a sandy or fine gravel substrate, some driftwood or bogwood and a few rocks, some floating plants to diffuse light, and plenty of swimming space will keep these fish happy.   They require good water quality that is highly oxygenated with a moderate amount of current in their tank, and because they are a schooling species, they should be housed in groups of at least 6 to 12 of their own kind.

Boehlkea fredcochui are relatively easy to breed and they are currently being bred in Florida for the aquarium trade.   They are egg scatterers and require soft, acidic water for the eggs to hatch.   Conditioned females will deposit their eggs on the undersides of broad leaf plants and because the parents will eat the eggs, successful breeders remove the eggs to a brooding tank immediately after spawning is completed.   The fry can be fed infusoria, newly hatched brine shrimp or finely crushed flake food.

Cochu’s Blue Tetras should be fed a mixture of high quality flake food or micro pellets.   Their diet should be augmented with fresh, frozen or freeze dried brine shrimp, Daphnia, bloodworms and tubifex to maintain optimal health and color.

Cochu’s Blue Tetra is rarely available to tropical fish keeping enthusiasts, but farm raised specimens are occasionally sold when they are 1″ to 1 1/2″ in size.   This species is not ever common in the aquarium trade.

Cochu’s Blue Tetra (Boehlkea fredcochui)

Minimum Tank Size: 30 gallons
Care Level: Easy
Temperament: Peaceful
Aquarium Hardiness: Hardy
Water Conditions: 72-81 F, dH 5-12, pH 5.5 – 7.6
Max. Size: 2”
Color Form: Blue, pink
Diet: Omnivore
Compatibility: Suitable for community tanks (may nip fins during feeding or when stressed)
Origin: Rio Maranon, Peru
Family: Characidae
Lifespan: 2-3 years
Aquarist Experience Level: Beginner

Grass Shrimp (Palaemonetes paludosus) are are found in large numbers in fresh and estuarine waters along the Atlantic and Gulf coasts of the United States where they occur from Massachusetts to Texas. These small decapod shrimp are collectively known as “carideans.”

Although there are many freshwater species, Grass Shrimp are commonly known to tropical fish keeping enthusiasts and to anglers as jumpers, glass shrimp, ghost shrimp, glass prawns, hardbacks, daggerblades, and popcorn shrimp.

Grass Shrimp (Palaemonetes paludosus)

Grass shrimp have a well developed “horn” (rostrum) with small teeth along the dorsal and ventral surfaces, no claws on the third pair of walking legs, and are rarely larger than 2″ in size. They have transparent bodies, but can camouflage themselves by using the pigment granules in their body.

Grass Shrimp are excellent scavengers and make very efficient aquarium cleaners.  They are always searching for any kind of leftover food or rotted vegetation in your tank and their transparent bodies along with their amusing food searching behavior make Grass Shrimp an interesting addition to a freshwater aquarium.

Grass Shrimp do well in an established densely planted freshwater or slightly brackish aquarium of at least 10 gallons, with plenty of hiding places and a mature substrate.

Although Palaemonetes paludosus is slightly larger than other more colorful freshwater shrimp, they should not be housed with fish large enough to make them a meal.   They do well with small, peaceful species like Tetras, Guppies, Barbs, and Corydoras that do not pose a threat to them.

When kept in large groups, Grass shrimp will readily breed in an aquarium environment. The female carries the the small green eggs, which look like small dots, under her tail. Because the young are so tiny, successful breeders remove the female shrimp to a brooding/rearing tank as soon as the eggs are noticed. When hatched, return the females back to the original aquarium and feed the fry rotifers, a suitable liquid “fry” food, or newly hatched baby brine shrimp.

Grass shrimp are an excellent food source and bait for many types of freshwater and saltwater fish. They are also great for getting newly introduced, hard to feed, freshwater or marine species like juvenile sharks, frogfish, grunts, or lionfish to start eating.

Grass Shrimp (Palaemonetes paludosus) are omnivores and will eagerly eat algae, detritus, and any left over food in the tank. When introduced into a newly set up aquarium, they should be fed a quality flake food or pellet.

Grass Shrimp can be purchased at some tropical fish keeping shops, at some specialty bait shops or you can catch them yourself.   The average purchase size is between 3/4″ to 1-1/2″.

Grass Shrimp (Palaemonetes paludosus) With Eggs

Minimum Tank Size: 10 gallons
Care Level: Easy
Temperament: Peaceful
Water Conditions: 68-85° F, KH 3-10, pH 6.5-8.0
Max. Size: 2″
Color Form: Transparent, Orange, Yellow
Diet: Omnivore
Compatibility: Excellent cleaners in peaceful community tanks
Origin: Atlantic and Gulf Coasts
Family: Palaeomonidae
Lifespan: 1 year
Aquarist Experience Level: Beginner

The Common Hatchetfish (Gasteropelecus sternicla) is also known to tropical fish keeping enthusiasts as the River Hatchetfish and erroneously the Silver Hatchetfish.

The Common Hatchetfish is found the southern tributaries and smaller streams of the Amazon in Brazil, Guyana, and Surinam. They prefer areas where there is an abundance of surface vegetation where they can retreat to when threatened.   Like other Hatchetfish species, they can “fly” several feet from the water to escape depredation and to catch flying insects in the wild.

Common Hatchetfish (Gasteropelecus sternicla)

The Common Hatchetfish is a deep bodied, shoaling fish that can reach 2 1/2″ in length and live up to 5 years in an aquarium environment.

They are among the more uniquely shaped species of fish and have a slender body with a deep protruding “belly” with pectoral fins that are set high on the body.    Their mouths are characteristic of true surface dwellers and are upturned.

Gasteropelecus sternicla prefer a densely planted aquarium with sandy or fine gravel substrate, some driftwood roots, and a few floating plants to make them feel secure and minimize jumping.    Because they are a skittish, schooling species, the Common Hatchetfish is best kept in a groups of six or more of their own kind even with other peaceful, non-boisterous species like tetras, bottom feeding cichlids (Geophagus or Satanoperca sp.) and catfish such as Corydoras or Loricariids.   A tightly fitting hood on the aquarium is a necessary for this species as well as excellent water quality.

Unfortunately, the Silver Hatchetfish‘s breeding habits have not been documented however, it is believed that the species breeds in soft water with a low pH.   Live mosquito larvae and fruit flies are said to trigger spawning behavior with the depositing of eggs on floating plants.

Feeding the Common Hatchetfish can be difficult until they are acclimated to their surroundings.    Being a carnivore, they prefer live insects but they will eat floating foods like freeze dried bloodworms, tubifex, mosquito larvae, and Drosophila fruit flies.   They will eventually accept a high quality carnivore flake food or micro pellets.

Common Hatchetfish are often mistakenly sold as “Silver Hatchetfish” (Gasteropelecus levis) in tropical fish keeping shops when they are 1 1/2″ to 2″ in size.

Common Hatchetfish (Gasteropelecus sternicla)

Minimum Tank Size: 20 gallons
Care Level: Difficult
Temperament: Peaceful
Water Conditions: 73-79° F, KH 8-12, pH 6.0-7.0
Max. Size: 2 1/2″
Color Form: Silver
Diet: Carnivore
Compatibility: Excellent in peaceful community tanks
Origin: Brazil
Family: Gasteropelecidae
Lifespan: 5 years
Aquarist Experience Level: Advanced

Silver Hatchetfish (Gasteropelecus levis) are found only in open water of larger igarapés, streams, and floodplain lakes of the lower Amazon river basin and the lower sections of the rios Tocantins and Guamá in the state of Pará, Brazi.

Because of their heavily keeled body shape, all Gasteropelecids are commonly referred to by tropical fish keeping enthusiasts as “freshwater hatchetfishes”.    Their laterally compressed bodies have evolved to possess an enlarged, heavily muscled, pectoral girdle (protruding belly) which resembles the head of a hatchet, hence it’s common name.

Silver Hatchetfish (Gasteropelecus levis)

Silver Hatchetfish are relatively small and have black and gold lines running along their sides.   Females are noticeably rounder bodied than males, especially when full of eggs.

The Silver Hatchetfish (Gasteropelecus levis) is one of three species of the genus Gasteropelecus.   Gasteropelecus sternicla and Gasteropelecus maculatus comprise the other two, both of which are often kept in an aquarium environment.

To add to the confusion with the name “Silver Hatchetfish“, the Common Hatchetfish (Gasteropelecus sternicla) also called the River Hatchetfish is also known to tropical fish keeping enthusiasts as the Silver Hatchetfish.

Unfortunately the name “Silver Hatchetfish” is somewhat of a misnomer.   There are a couple of other species also known by this common name.

Gasteropelecus levis and Thoracocharax securis (aka the Greater Hatchetfish) are also commonly known in the aquarium trade as Silver Hatchetfish.

Although all hatchetfish are similar in appearance, they differ somewhat in size.

Both of the Gasteropelecus species are smaller in size.   In the wild, G. levis grows to about 1″ in size and G. sternicla maxes out at about 1 1/2″ but in an aquarium environment, they can grow up to 3 1/2″.   The Greater Hatchetfish (Thoracocharax securis) grows to about 3 1/2″ in length and lacks the pronounced black horizontal line that the other species have.

Most tropical fish keeping shops routinely sell the Common Hatchetfish as the Silver Hatchetfish.

The Silver Hatchetfish (Gasteropelecus levis) is a shy, peaceful, and somewhat nervous shoaling species that spend most of their time close to, or just under the water surface where they feed primarily on terrestrial insects, worms, and small crustaceans. Like other freshwater hatchetfishes, the Silver Hatchetfish is known for its ability to leap from the surface of the water and glide for distances of several yards.   The behavior is used to catch flying insects and escape from potential predators.

Silver Hatchetfish should be housed with at least 6 or more of their own kind in an aquarium having a lot of surface water area. Because of their skittishness and predilection to jumping, they need a densely planted tank with floating plants and a moderate amount of current.   The decor for the rest of the tank is not especially critical but they do well in heavily planted Amazon biotope setups with a sandy substrate, driftwood roots, and some leaf litter on the bottom of the tank.   A tightly fitting tank cover is critical for this species.

In a community tank, Silver Hatchetfish should not be housed with boisterous species.   Peaceful species such as tetras, bottom feeding cichlids (Geophagus or Satanoperca sp.) and catfish such as Corydoras or Loricariids make acceptable tankmates.

Not much is known about the breeding habits of Silver Hatchetfish however, they probably breed in a similar fashion to Marbled Hatchetfish (Carnegiella strigata).

Newly introduced Silver Hatchetfish are sometimes reluctant to take dried foods however, over time they will usually accept flake foods or floating micro pellets.   They prefer live insects like gut loaded Drosophila fruit flies when available, but will eat frozen or freeze dried bloodworms

and Daphnia.    They should be fed small portions several times a day.

Silver Hatchetfish are commonly available in most tropical fish keeping shops at a size of 3/4″-1″ in length.

Silver Hatchetfish (Gasteropelecus levis)

Minimum Tank Size: 15 gallons
Care Level: Moderate
Temperament: Peaceful
Water Conditions: 68-89.6° F, 2 – 15 dGH, pH 5.0-7.5
Max. Size: 1”
Color Form: Silver
Diet: Omnivore
Compatibility: Excellent in peaceful community tanks
Origin: Colombia, South America
Family:  Gasteropelecidae
Lifespan: 5 years
Aquarist Experience Level: Advanced

Purple Spaghetti Eel (Moringua raitaborua)

The Purple Spaghetti Eel (Moringua raitaborua) is an extremely rare member of the moringua family that is found in the Gangetic estuary (West Bengal) in India, Matla and Bidyadhari river, and probably Bangladesh, Indonesia, and the Philippines.   They are also known to tropical fish keeping enthusiasts as the Pink Paddletail Eel, Purple Spaghetti Eel, Spaghetti Eel, and Paddle tailed Eel.

The Purple Spaghetti Eel is found in freshwater, brackish water and saltwater. As juveniles they are found in freshwater, and as they grow they move into brackish water and possibly salt water as adults.

Purple Spaghetti Eel (Moringua raitaborua)

They are most often found burrowed in the soft substrate of the underflow areas of rivers and estuaries where they feed on insects, crustaceans, various larvae, and small fish.

The Purple Spaghetti Eel (Moringua raitaborua) is a shy “worm eel” that grows to over 17 inches in length and has a thin (spaghetti like) appearance.  They are colored pinkish to a purplish brown and have a paddle tail type anal fin.

Their dorsal and anal fins are located towards the back end of the eel, but they look more like folds than fins.   They join with the caudal fin giving the eel their paddle type appearance.   Mature females normally have deeper bodies than the males.   Although they are carnivores, these eels have a small head and mouth and present no threat to most tank mates in an aquarium environment.   Avoid housing them with small species such as neons, guppies, or livebearer fry, and larger more aggressive eels.

Purple Spaghetti Eels should be housed in at least a 30 gallon tank with low subdued lighting and a sandy substrate so they can bury themselves.

Purple Spaghetti Eel (Moringua raitaborua)

They need plenty of hiding places so rocks, roots, and plants can also be used for aquascaping to help them feel secure.   Unfortunately, they are extremely shy and will remain buried head first in the sand most of the time.

Because these eels can worm their way through very small openings, a tight fitting lid is a must. Also, it’s a good idea to cover the intakes of your pumps or powerheads with sponge material to prevent them from getting into the impellers.

Purple Spaghetti Eels do best in highly oxygenated, soft, slightly acidic water, with a moderate amount of water movement and exceptionally good filtration. Ideally, the water in the tank should be turned over at least 10 to 15 times per hour and an under gravel filter for these fish is an excellent choice for reducing waste and creating a high oxygen level throughout the system. Weekly water changes of about 20% to 30% are a must for this species.

A canister filter will provide sufficient water flow and oxygenation, or you can substitute a couple of powerheads and airstones in lieu of using a canister filter.

Because Purple Spaghetti Eels are a brackish water species, they need extremely pristine water conditions to survive long term. Although they have been kept in fresh water for short periods of time, they do best when the specific gravity is kept at a level of 1.005 to 1.010.

The Purple Spaghetti Eel has never been bred in an aquarium environment.

In it’s natural environment, the Purple spaghetti Eel is a nocturnal predator of benthic invertebrates and small fish. Insect larvae, small worms, and crustaceans comprise their primary diet. In an aquarium environment they can be fed live or frozen tubifex, bloodworms, or brine shrimp with an occasional “treat” of livebearer fry when available. Feed them daily towards evening.

Poor water quality can cause fungus problems with these eels, but do not use copper based medications on these fish.

The Purple spaghetti Eel is rarely if ever available to tropical fish keeping enthusiasts and on the rare occasion when they are available, command a high price.

Purple Spaghetti Eel (Moringua raitaborua)

Minimum Tank Size: 30 gallons
Care Level: Difficult
Temperament: Shy, Peaceful
Aquarium Hardiness: Difficult to maintain
Water Conditions: 72-78° F, KH 8-12, pH 8.1-8.4
Salinity: 1.005 to 1.010 as adults
Size: 18″
Color Form: Pink, Purple
Diet: Carnivore
Compatibility: Multiple species brackish water tank
Origin: India
Family: Moringuidae
Life Span: 5-12 years
Aquarist Experience Level: Advanced

The Striped Lamprologus (Neolamprologus buescheri) is a Lake Tanganyikan cichlid that inhabits areas of shoreline with rocky substrates from Tembwe II on the western coast, all around the southern part of the lake, up to Samazi on the eastern side.   Several geographical morphs are available from other areas of the lake, including “gombi”, “kachese”, “kamakonde”, and “zaire”.

Striped Lamprologus (Neolamprologus buescheri) Kachese

Striped Lamprologus are one of the most aggressive and territorial species in the aquarium hobby, and are best housed in a single species tank. Several females should be kept for each male in order to reduce harassment by the male, and only a single male should be kept in the tank unless it is extremely large. The females will set up small territories that are inside the male’s territory.

Some tropical fish keeping enthusiasts have successfully kept Striped Lamprologus with some of the other

Striped Lamprologus (Neolamprologus buescheri) Kamakonde

small to medium sized Tanganyikan cichlids (like Cyprichromis) but avoid the shell dwellers.   Other rock dwelling species like the Julidochromis or Altolamprologus are also possibilities, but only in large aquariums with plenty of separate territorial rock settings.

Striped Lamprologus should never be housed with mbuna or other rambunctious cichlid species or cichlids large enough to consider them part of their diet.

Neolamprologus buescheri are without a doubt the most aggressive of all the small Tanganyikan cichlids and are definitely NOT recommended for beginners.

Striped Lamprologus (Neolamprologus buescheri) Gombi

Striped Lamprologus are cave dwellers and should be housed in at least a 55 gallon aquarium set up with plenty of stones and rocks that are formed into caves and crevices for them to hide among.   The tank should have a very fine gravel or sandy substrate and if your choose, plants to provide a more aesthetic scene.

Striped Lamprologus are cave spawners and breeding them is not especially difficult however, sexing them is.   Males and females look identical but if you can purchase sexed specimens, buy a single male and several females for the breeding tank.   If this is not possible, purchase several juveniles and grow them together so they can pair off, but be prepared to accept losses.   The dominant male in the tank will decimate the sub-dominant males until only one remains.

When a dominant male and several females are selected, place them in the breeding tank described above with a pH of 8.2 to 9.0 and a water temperature of 77 to 80 degrees F.

Each of the female fish will select a spawning cave to lay their eggs.   The male will often then keep the females from leaving the immediate area of their cave.   The female will then deposit their eggs on the roof of the cave where they are fertilized by the male.   After spawning has occurred, the female tends to the eggs until they are hatched out and the male plays no further role in the process except to guard the territory around the cave.   The fry will remain in the cave for several days and are tolerated in the vicinity of the cave until they reach about 1 1/2″ in size.

The actual act of spawning is so secretive that most often you will not know that spawning has even occurred until they fry appear at the mouth of the cave.   Because of the unpredictability of the males, successful breeders will usually remove the fry as soon as they are noticed in the tank

Striped Lamprologus fry are large enough to be fed or newly hatched baby brine shrimp as soon as they are born.

Adult Striped Lamprologus are omnivorous but prefer live foods such as mosquito larvae, bloodworms, tubifex, brine shrimp, etc. They can be fussy eaters and often turn down dried flake foods or pellets.   Usually frozen bloodworms, brine shrimp and the like are eagerly accepted.

Neolamprologus buescheri are not usually available at tropical fish keeping shops or online as juveniles or adults.   When available they demand a modest price at any size.

Striped Lamprologus (Neolamprologus buescheri) Zaire Gold

Minimum Tank Size: 55 gallons
Care Level: Moderate
Temperament: Extremely aggressive
Aquarium Hardiness: Hardy
Water Conditions: 75°-82°F, 9-25°dH, pH 7.5-9.0
Max. Size: 2.8″ to 3.1″
Color Form: Gray, Black
Diet: Omnivorous
Compatibility: Single species tank
Origin: Lake Tanganyika
Family: Cichlidae
Lifespan: 5-8 years
Aquarist Experience Level: Advanced (Not recommended for the beginner)

The Silver Tiger Fish (Datnioides polota) is a brackish water species that is widely distributed throughout India, Myanmar, Bangladesh, Thailand, Cambodia, Vietnam, Singapore, Malaysia, Indonesia and New Guinea.   It is also known to tropical fish keeping enthusiasts as the Silver Datnoid, Silver Dat, American Tigerfish, and Four Barred Datnoid.

Although Silver Tiger Fish are occasionally found in landlocked freshwater lakes, they are mostly collected in coastal brackish water estuaries, mangrove swamps, and lagoons.

Juvenile Silver Tiger Fish (Datnioides polota)

Silver Tiger Fish have a total of 12 Dorsal spines, 13 to 14 soft Dorsal rays, 3 anal spines, and 8 to 9 soft Anal rays.   They have a strongly concave predorsal profile, large scales, and up to 7 full black vertical bars over their silver body that can be in a highly variable color pattern.   They sometimes have 1 to 4 partial bars between the full bars.   There is no visible difference between the sexes.

In an aquarium environment, Silver Tiger Fish can survive in hard, alkaline freshwater for some time, but they are primarily a brackish water species that requires the addition of marine salt to the tank.   A specific gravity of 1.005 will keep them healthy and relatively disease free.

The ideal tank setup for Silver Tiger Fish is a biotope type environment.   A large tank with a sandy or fine gravel substrate that is densely planted and aquascaped with plenty of driftwood branches for cover will allow the fish to exhibit their most natural behavior.

They can be kept with larger cyprinids, knife fish, peaceful Central  American Cichlids or similar in a hard freshwater environment or in a brackish water tank with Scats, Monos, Archerfish, Eels like the Indian mud moray (Gymnothorax tile), and  larger gobies.

Although Silver Tiger Fish are predatory and will eat smaller size fish, similarly sized species are usually left alone.   In fact, they can be intimidated by more boisterous species.   They should never be kept in pairs because one fish will constantly bully the other.   In a single species tank they should be kept as either a single specimen or in groups of 3 or more fish.

Because Tigerfish require exceptional water quality, some tropical fish keeping enthusiasts prefer keeping Silver Tiger Fish in a tank with a bare bottom or one with very little
substrate for easier maintenance, but a natural setting is much more aesthetically pleasing.

Little is known about the sexing and breeding of Silver Tiger Fish an to date, they have never been bred in an aquarium environment.

Like all Tigerfish, the Silver Tiger Fish is a predatory carnivore that feeds on live shrimp, prawns, small crabs, mussels, earthworms, crustaceans, and smaller fish.

As juveniles in an aquarium environment they can be fed live brine shrimp, ghost shrimp, and slowly weaned to eating fresh dead shrimp, mussels, and occasionally dried carnivore pellet foods.

Because they are unable to metabolize the fats that are contained in the meat of mammals, they should never be given chicken or beef hearts.   Goldfish and other small feeder fish provide a minimal benefit to Silver Tiger Fish but also the potential risk of disease.

The Silver Tiger Fish is more readily available to tropical fish keeping enthusiasts than other Datnioides but still command a relatively high price when available in any size.

Silver Tiger Fish (Datnioides polota)

Minimum Tank Size: 100 gallons
Care Level: Moderate
Temperament: Peaceful with similar sized fish
Aquarium Hardiness: Moderately Hardy
Moderately Hardy Water Conditions: 72°F-82°F°, KH 15-30, pH 7.0-8.5
Max. Size: 12″
Color Form: Silver, Black
Diet: Carnivorous
Compatibility: OK with other similarly sized fish
Origin: Southeast Asia
Family: Datnioididae
Lifespan: 10 years
Aquarist Experience Level: Advanced

The Siamese Tiger Fish (Datnioides pulcher) is also referred to as Siamese Tiger Perch, Widebar Tigerfish, Widebar Datnoid, Gold Datnoid and Wide Bar Dat/Tigerfish by tropical fish keeping enthusiasts.

Siamese Tiger Fish come from the Mekong and Chao Phraya basins of SouthEast Asia and are one of only three true freshwater species of Datnioides.

Siamese Tiger Fish (Datnioides pulcher)

Siamese Tiger Fish are striking in appearance with 3 to 4 wide black vertical bands on their silver white to yellow flanks that distinguish them from False Siamese Tiger Fish (Datnioides microlepis) which have 5 to 7 vertical bands.

Datnioides pulcher specimens collected from the lower Mekong have a 5th bar which is absent from those collected from the Chao Phraya basin.

Sexual dimorphism is not known and no method has been devised to differentiate males from females.

True Siamese Tiger Fish, Datnioides pulcher, seem to be much less aggressive towards other tigerfish than Datnioides microlepis.

Both species of Siamese Tiger Fish have protrusile mouths which are used to take large prey and both species cannot be sexed visually.   Although Siamese Tiger Fish are sometimes described as being a brackish water species; they are a true freshwater fish that thrives in clean alkaline water conditions.

Siamese Tiger Fish should be housed with other peaceful species of their own size, or with at least 5 or more of their own species in a densely planted,  100 gallon or larger aquarium, with a sandy or fine gravel substrate  decorated with driftwood branches or twigs that can provide the fish with places to hide.

They prefer a dimly lit tank with plenty of swimming space, and because they are extremely sensitive to pollutants, they must have excellent water quality and regular water changes in order to thrive.

No captive breeding has yet been accomplished with this species and virtually no information about their breeding habits exist.

Siamese Tiger Fish are predatory carnivores that eat live fish in their natural habitat.   In an aquarium environment  they can be taught to eat dead meaty foods such as shrimp, prawn, mussels, white baits, and for juveniles; bloodworms and brine shrimp.

Siamese Tiger Fish are rare in the tropical fish keeping hobby and when available for purchase demand a high price.

Siamese Tiger Fish (Datnioides pulcher)

Minimum Tank Size: 100 gallons
Care Level: Difficult
Temperament: Shy, relatively peaceful with similar sized fish
Aquarium Hardiness: Hardy
Water Conditions: 72°F-79°F°, KH 8-15, pH 7.2-7.5
Max. Size: 16 inches
Color Form: Yellow, Black
Diet: Carnivorous
Compatibility: OK with similiarly sized fish
Origin: SouthEast Asia; Mekong and Chao Phraya basins
Family: Datnioididae
Lifespan: 5-10 years
Aquarist Experience Level: Advanced

The False Siamese Tiger Fish (Datnioides microlepis) is also known to tropical fish keeping enthusiasts as the Indonesian Tigerfish, Indonesian Tiger Perch, Fine Scaled Tigerfish, Siamese Tiger Fish, Indo Datnoidand, and Sumatran Tigerfish.   It is a beautiful freshwater species that is found in SouthEast Asia, Borneo, and Sumatra.

The False Siamese Tiger Fish is one of five species of Indo-Pacific Tigerperches, of which only three inhabit fresh water.

False Siamese Tiger Fish have a deeper body than those of the other Datnioides species and finer scales in comparison to Datnioides quadrafasciatus and Datnioides campbelli; hence the more common name Fine Scaled Tigerfish.

Juvenile False Siamese Tiger Fish (Datnioides microlepis) extended

They are frequently misidentified as Siamese Tigerfish however, the true Siamese Tigerfish (Datnioides pulcher) have only 3 to 4 black vertical stripes on it’s flanks vs. the 5 to 7 vertical stripes displayed on Datnioides microlepis.

Both species have protrusile mouths to take large prey and both are unable to be visually sexed.

Although False Siamese Tiger Fish are sometimes described as being a brackish water species; they are a true freshwater fish that does best in clean alkaline water conditions.   This species needs exceptionally good water quality in their aquarium to thrive,  and when not kept alone as a single show specimen, needs to be housed with at least 5 or more of their own kind in at least a 100 gallon or larger aquarium.   Smaller groups can result in aggression between individuals.

False Siamese Tiger Fish are relatively shy and require plenty of places in the aquarium for them to hide.   They do best in a densely planted tank with tall plants, lots of driftwood and driftwood roots, a sandy or fine gravel substrate, some rock structure and plenty of free swimming space.

Although Datnioides microlepis grow to over 18″ in the wild, they are slow growing in an aquarium environment and are not likely to reach their maximum size.

False Siamese Tiger Fish (Datnioides microlepis) appear to be more rambunctious in an aquarium environment than Datnioides pulcher, and are probably more aggressive towards other tigerfish species when kept in close confinement.

Choose their tank mates wisely.   They should not be kept with other aggressive species or with smaller fish they could consider a meal.

The False Siamese Tiger Fish has not been successfully bred in an aquarium environment and to date, very little is known about their breeding habits.

All Tiger Fish are carnivorous and will usually not immediately accept anything but live foods.   They can be taught to accept floating carnivore pellets but do better with meaty foods like ghost shrimp, prawns, silversides or fresh beef heart.   They also do better when fed small portions a couple of times a day rather than a single large portion.   Of course live feeder fish are always eagerly accepted.

The False Siamese Tiger Fish is rare in the tropical fish keeping arena and command a high price when available at any size.

False Siamese Tiger Fish (Datnioides microlepis)

Minimum Tank Size: 100 gallons
Care Level: Difficult
Temperament: Shy, relatively peaceful with similar sized fish
Aquarium Hardiness: Hardy
Moderately Hardy Water Conditions: 72°F-79°F°, KH 15-25, pH 7.0-7.8
Max. Size: 15 inches
Color Form: Yellow, Black
Diet: Carnivorous
Compatibility: OK with other similiarly sized fish
Origin: SouthEast Asia, Sri Lanka, Borneo
Family: Datnioididae
Lifespan: 8-12 years
Aquarist Experience Level: Advanced

Schultz’s Cory (Corydoras haraldschultzi) are found in the river tributaries of the upper Rio Guaporé in the State of Mato Grosso in Central Brazil and in Bolivia, South America.

It is often confused with Corydoras araguaiensis, which lacks the orange coloration in the fins, Corydoras spectabilis, Corydoras isbrueckeri, and Sterba’s Cory Cat (Corydoras sterbai).

Schultz’s Cory (Corydoras haraldschultzi)

Schultz’s Cory has the typical triangular Corydoras body shape with a more pointed head and a long snout.   Their bodies are slightly deeper than other species of Crydoras and the dorsal fin has 7 to 8 soft rays.

The base body color of the Schultz’s Cory is light and overlaid with 6 to 7 bands of dark colored markings that begin at the front of the dorsal fin and continue down to the caudal peduncle.   They have dark gray reticulated markings on the head and snout that extend towards the leading ray of the dorsal fin.   The pectoral and ventral leading fin spines are orange.   Behind the spine, the fins are clear with black bands.

Males are much smaller and more slender than the females, while the females are plumper, rounder and larger than males of the same age.

Schultz’s Cory is most often confused with Sterba’s Cory Cat (Corydoras sterbai) which has a darker basic body color with white spots on its head and snout.

Schultz’s Cory do best in at least a 30 gallon aquarium with a sand or extremely fine gravel substrate that is densely planted with Amazon Sword type plants and aquascaped with some smooth river rock and enough driftwood or bogwood to provide shelter.

Although they do well in a South American community tank setup with other peaceful species of the same size, they are a shoaling species that should be housed with at least 5 or 6 of their own kind.   These fish require clean water conditions with a moderate amount of current in their tank and need regular 25% to 50% water changes to keep them healthy.

Although Corydoras sterbai are easily bred in an aquarium environment, to date there are no documented cases of Schultz’s Cory (Corydoras haraldschultzi) being tank bred.

Schultz’s Cory (Corydoras haraldschultzi) are ease to feed and will readily accept a mixed, varied diet of live, frozen and  freeze dried bloodworms, brine shrimp, chopped earthworms, and a good quality flake or pellet food.

Wild caught Schultz’s Cory specimens are are usually found in mixed South American shipments and when available for purchase are approximately 3/4″ to 1″ in size.

Schultz’s Cory (Corydoras haraldschultzi)

Minimum Tank Size: 30 gallons
Care Level: Easy
Temperament: Peaceful
Aquarium Hardiness: Hardy
Water Conditions: 67-77° F, KH 0-15, pH 6.0-7.2
Max. Size: 3″
Color Form: Black, Tan, Yellow
Diet: Omnivore
Compatibility: Community tanks
Origin: Brazil, South America, upper Rio Guaporé
Family: Callichthyidae
Life Span: 5 – 10 years
Aquarist Experience Level: Beginner

Sterba’s Cory Cat (Corydoras sterbai) is also known to tropical fish keeping enthusiasts as Sterba’s Cory, Sterbai Cory, or Sterba’s Corydoras and is found in the small tributaries, pools, creeks and flooded forest areas of the upper Rio Guapore in Bolivia and Brazil, South America.

Sterba’s Cory Cat (Corydoras sterbai)

Sterba’s Cory Cat (Corydoras sterbai) is one of the two more common species of Corydoras that have spotted bodies and bright orange fins.

Sterba’s Cory is a peaceful bottom dwelling catfish that is frequently misidentified as Schultz’s Cory (Corydoras haraldschultzi), which has a lighter body background with darker spots and a more elongated, snout like head.

Sterba’s Cory has a round head with lighter spots on a darker background.

Sterba’s Cory Cats prefer a densely planted tank with a dark colored, sandy or fine gravel bottom substrate, some driftwood or bogwood roots, and plenty of swimming space.   They thrive in clear water conditions with a moderate amount of current in their tank and like most other species of Corydoaras, do best in small groups with their own kind.

Sterba’s Cory Cats can be kept in most planted South American community tanks with other peaceful species of tetras, danios, rasboras, livebearers and rainbows.   They enjoy having broad leaf plants (Amazon Swords) and crevices under rocks or bogwood in their tanks for hiding places, but it is best to avoid substrates with sharp or jagged edges that can damage their sensitive barbels and undersides.   Fine sandy substrates are best for this species.

The Sterba’s Cory Cat is one of the easiest Corydoras species to spawn and is recommended for beginning tropical fish keeping enthusiasts.

Set up a breeding tank with either a bare bottom or fine sand substrate, a “seeded” air powered sponge filter, and some Java Moss or a fine spawning mop.   The eggs seem to be less susceptible to fungal diseases when kept over a thin layer of sand rather than in a bare bottom aquarium.   The tank water should be kept at about 75 degrees F. with a pH of 6.5.

Place two conditioned males to each female in the breeding tank and when the females become visibly gravid, perform 50% to 70% daily water changes with cooler water and increase the oxygenation and current in the tank until spawning takes place.

During breeding, the male will clamp the barbels of the female during the fertilization process between his pectoral fin and his body.   Once fertilized, the female will then carry the eggs to their final destination (usually a plant leaf, the side of the glass or other smooth surface) using a special pouch located under her ventral fins and the process is repeated until spawning is completed.   At this point either remove the adults from the breeding tank or remove the eggs to a brooding tank that is well oxygenated with a moderate current.

After 3 to 5 days the eggs will hatch out and after the eggs sacs are absorbed, the fry can be fed microworms, microplankton, or newly hatched baby brine shrimp until they are large enough to eat prepared foods.

The Sterba’s Cory is omnivorous and should be fed a well balanced diet that includes live, frozen, sinking pellets, flakes, and freeze dried foods such as brine shrimp, freeze dried bloodworms, chopped worms, etc.

Corydoras sterbai are usually readily available for purchase when they are approximately 3/4″ to 1″ in size.

Sterba’s Cory Cat (Corydoras sterbai)

Minimum Tank Size: 30 gallons
Care Level: Easy
Temperament: Peaceful
Aquarium Hardiness: Hardy
Water Conditions: 70-77° F, KH 0-15, pH 6.2-7.8
Max. Size: 3″
Color Form: Black, Tan, Yellow
Diet: Omnivore
Compatibility: Community tanks
Origin: Brazil, South America, Upper Rio Guapore
Family: Callichthyidae
Life Span: 5 – 10 years
Aquarist Experience Level: Beginner

The Elegans Cory Cat (Corydoras elegans) also known to tropical fish keeping enthusiasts as the Elegant Cory, is a widespread species that comes from the tributaries of the larger river systems in the western Amazon River basin.

It has been collected from the Ríos Yavarí (Javary), Itaya, Nanay, Carahuayte, Tamaya, Ampiyacu, and Ucayali in Peru, the Ríos Aguarico and Napo in Ecuador, and the rio Solimões in Brazil.   They are found in forested streams with substrates of sand, mud, leaf litter, and fallen branches.

The Elegans Cory Cat is a peaceful bottom dwelling scavenger that is commonly kept in South American community tanks by tropical fish keeping enthusiasts. They are somewhat nocturnal in nature and do well with most non aggressive South American species.

Elegans Cory Cat (Corydoras elegans)

Elegans Cory Cats are silver to gold and have a horizontal black stripe that runs from the back of the head to the tail of the fish.

The males are more intensely colored than the females and have a greater proportion of dark markings on the body annd dorsal fins.

Females grow larger than the males and have a broader, and noticeably rounder body; especially during spawning when the females are gravid.

The Elegans Cory Cat does well in a densely planted, dimly lit aquarium with a sandy or fine gravel substrate that is ideally covered with a layer of leaves and aquascaped with a rock or two, and plenty of driftwood roots for them to hide among.   These cats are a gregarious species that should be housed with at least 5 or 6 of their own kind.

The breeding of the Elegans Cory Cat is similar to the breeding of other Corydora species. Place several specimens in a tank and allow them to pair off. When a breeding pair is identified, separate them into a breeding tank and condition them for spawning.

When the female is gravid, perform a 50 to 60% water change with cool water, and increase the water flow and oxygenation in the tank by placing a powerhead in the aquarium. Water changes should be done daily until the fish spawn.

Once spawning is completed, most breeders will remove either the eggs or the pair from the tank. The eggs are usually deposited on fine leaved water plants, a spawning mop, a smooth river rock, or often on the aquarium glass where they are fertilized by the male.

To prevent fungus, Indian Almond Leaves or a few drops of methylene blue can be added to the tank water.   The eggs will hatch in approximately 3 to 4 days.   The fry will absorb their egg sacs and be free swimming in approximately five days, at which time they can be fed baby brine shrimp, mircoworms or finely crushed flake food.

The Elegans Cory Cat is easy to feed and will eagerly accept most sinking pellets, flake foods and fresh, frozen, or freeze dried bloodworms, tubifex and brine shrimp. Although they can survive on uneaten food on the bottom of the aquarium, a varied diet is important to keep them in excellent condition and free from disease.

Corydoras elegans are relative common to tropical fish keeping enthusiasts and are usually 3/4″ to 1-1/2″ in size when available for purchase.

Elegans Cory Cat (Corydoras elegans)

Minimum Tank Size: 30 gallons
Care Level: Easy
Temperament: Peaceful
Aquarium Hardiness: Hardy
Water Conditions: 72-79° F, KH 2-12, pH 5.8-7.5
Max. Size: 2 1/2″
Color Form: White, Yellow
Diet: Omnivore
Compatibility: Community tanks
Origin: South America
Family: Callichthyidae
Life Span: 5 – 10 years
Aquarist Experience Level: Beginner

The Canara Pearlspot Cichlid (Etroplus canarensis) is one of the hobby’s rarest cichlids and was once believed to be extinct in the wild, only to reappear at a far east trade show in the early 1990s. It is also known to tropical fish keeping enthusiasts as the Banded Chromide, Pearlspot Cichlid, or Roman Numeral Cichlid.

Etroplus canarensis are only found along the rocky banks of the slow flowing Kumaradhara and Netravathi river systems in India, and are named after the Canara district in the state of Mysore, southwestern India where they are found.

The Canara Pearlspot Cichlid (Etroplus canarensis) is found exclusively in the oxygen rich fresh waters within the downstream limits of its range which appears to be approximately 50 km from the mouth of the Netravati.   Below this point, the species is replaced by the euryhaline congeners Etroplus maculatus and Etroplus suratensis.

Unlike the other two fish in the genus, the Canara Pearlspot is found quite far from the coast and is not a brackish or hard water species.

Canara Pearlspot Cichlid (Etroplus-canarensis)

The Canara Pearlspot Cichlid normally has a series of 6 dark vertical bars on the body (excluding those on the head and caudal peduncle) and as the fish mature, they anterior three bars tend to bifurcate.

Their body color is a buff gray and some of their body scales have a yellowish central patch.   In Etroplus suratensis, the bars remain solid and their body color is a greenish brown with many body scales having a pearly white central spot. Male Etroplus canarensis are slightly larger and more stocky than females.

Canara Pearlspot cichlids are best kept in an aquarium environment that mimics a slow moving river or moderately flowing stream. Ideally they should be housed in a large tank with a substrate of various sized river rocks, sand, fine gravel and even some small boulders.   Some driftwood roots or branches can be added for aesthetics and hardy plants like Microsorum or Anubias spp. can be attached to the rocks or driftwood, but the majority of aquatic plants will be eaten by the fish.

This species requires a high ratio of dissolved oxygen and spotless water conditions to thrive. They are highly intolerant to the accumulation of organic pollutants and will require weekly 30-50% water changes. Excellent water filtration and a strong water flow is essential to their well being.

Canara Pearlspot Cichlids are relatively peaceful and loosely gregarious. They tend to form small groups and should be kept with at least 8 or more individuals in a single species tank. When housed in smaller numbers, weaker specimens may become targets for abuse by dominant individuals. In a community environment they should not be kept with territorial, aggressive, or hard water cichlid species and unless they are being bred, they will not predate on any except the smallest of fish.

They are compatible with Rasbora daniconius, Barilius gatensis, Hypselobarbus jerdoni, Puntius mahecola, Haludaria fasciata, Garra mullya, Pristolepis marginata, Mesonoemacheilus triangularis, Devario malabaricus, Esomus danricus, Parambassis wolffii, Carinotetraodon travancoricus, Hyporhamphus limbatus, and even many Tetras.

Canara Pearlspot Cichlids are substrate spawners that attain sexual maturity at 24 months of age and breed during December and January when water temperatures are cooler and the monsoon waters have receded.   Simulating these conditions in an aquarium environment usually induces spawning activity. This can be achieved by keeping the breeding tank water temperature at 78-80 degrees for some time and then raising it up to 83 degrees and performing several 25% water changes using cooler water for several days, a few days apart. Keep in mind that most spawning problems with Etroplus Canarensis are caused by keeping them in hard water.

A change in color pattern where the dark vertical body bars are replaced by a solid dark patch, and vertical bars appear on the front of the head indicates that breeding will soon take place.

The pair will select a breeding site and defend the surrounding area against intruders until spawning takes place.   The eggs are deposited on the side or top of a smooth rock where they are attached by short filaments.   Both parents guard the eggs until hatching takes place (usually 96 hours at 80 degrees).   At this point the eggs could be removed to a rearing tank as they are often eaten by tank mates or the parents however, after spawning, both parents will continue to defend the site even though the male may spawn with other females when available.

The eggs need constant water movement to hatch and avoid fungus problems.   The fry will usually be free swimming in 2 to 3 days at which time they can be fed newly hatched baby brine shrimp or crushed flakes.

In the wild, Canara Pearlspot Cichlids graze on filamentous algae and aufwuchs.   In an aquarium environment they will accept quality prepared flake foods but prefer small live, frozen, or freeze dried bloodworms, tubifex, mosquito larvae and brine shrimp.   Also include significant amounts of Spirulina wafers, chopped peas, spinach, etc. to balance out their diet.

Canara Pearlspot Cichlids are rarely seen by tropical fish keeping enthusiasts but can occasionally be purchased online or from specialty fish shops at a premium price.

Canara Pearlspot Cichlid (Etroplus-canarensis)

Minimum Tank Size: 100 gallons
Care Level: Moderate
Temperament: Relatively Peaceful with similar sized fish
Aquarium Hardiness: Moderately Hardy
Water Conditions: 77°-94°F°, GH 2.0 KH 2.0, pH 6.0-7.5
Max. Size: 5 inches
Color Form: Gray, Black
Diet: Omnivorous
Compatibility: OK with Other Asian cichlids or
Origin: India
Family: Cichlidae
Lifespan: 8 years
Aquarist Experience Level: Intermediate

The Green Chromide (Etroplus suratensis) is also known by tropical fish keeping enthusiasts as the Pearl Spot, Banded Pearl Spot, Banded Chromide, Banded Etroplus, Karimeen, or Pearlspot Cichlid.

It is native to Sri Lanka and possibly Peninsular India, Peninsular Malaysia and Singapore however, it is believed to have been introduced to India and Malaysia for aquaculture in the early 1950s.

The Green Chromide cichlid inhabits brackish estuaries, coastal lagoons, the lower reaches of rivers and a number of freshwater habitats including a number of inland lakes.   It is a hardy species that can breath atmospheric air.

Green Chromide (Etroplus suratensis)

The Green Chromide has a green, greenish brown, or gold tinted oval shaped body with six dark vertical bars on the body (excluding those on the head and caudal peduncle).   Gold spots are distributed over the body of the fish, primarily on the upper half.

Compared to other cichlid species, the Green Chromide keeps a “slender” body profile.   Although there is no sure visible way to determine the sex of Green Chromides; males that are the same age as females tend to be larger and during breeding, the males develop more intense colors and black occipital stripes between the eye and opercle.   Females will develop a reddish, swollen, modified ovipositor during breeding.

The Green Chromide is a relative peaceful species that can be kept in fresh or brackish water aquariums with other Asian cichlids, Archer Fish, or similar sized loaches with the same water parameters.   Etroplus suratensis can live in freshwater environments, but they prefer brackish water conditions.

Because of their size, they need a large aquarium of at least 100 gallon capacity with a fine sand or gravel substrate, lots of rock caves and driftwood for them to hide among, and plenty of open swimming space.   They are a shoaling species and in an aquarium environment should be housed with at least 8 or more of their own kind to minimize any aggressive behavior.   They become aggressive and will eat smaller tank mates when confined in a smaller sized aquarium.

Green Chromides are substrate spawners that may also use caves as spawning sites.   Wild fish in Sri Lanka breed twice a year from December to April and again from June to September during the pre monsoon and monsoon seasons.   During these periods, water salinity increases and the water becomes cleaner.

In an aquarium environment, because they are sexually mature within a year, it is best to place a group of juvenile Green Chromides together until they pair off.    Spawning can be induced by gradually increasing the salinity in the breeding tank to replicate the seasonal monsoons.  Put several flat rocks in the aquarium and slowly increase the salinity in the tank to a brackish level.  As the water becomes brackish, pairs will begin digging pits to use as nests.

Once the pair select a rock or other site to lay their eggs on, they will defend the surrounding area against all intruders until the eggs are deposited.    The female will deposit her eggs on the flat rocks where they are attached to the substrate with short filaments and will hatch, depending on water temperature, within 48 to 72 hours.

After the fry have hatched out, the parents will move  the fry for their protection, to the “nursery pits”  that they excavated around the spawning site until their egg sacs are absorbed and they become free swimming (in about 3 to 4 days).

During this time, like Discus, the fry remain with the adults and will graze on their parents’ body mucus until they are fully free swimming.   The fry can be then be fed newly hatched baby brine shrimp, rotifers, or finely crushed flake food.   Both parents stay with the eggs and brood at all times until they are capable of fending for themselves.

Adult Etroplus suratensis are easy to feed and will accept a quality flake and pellet food as a staple diet, along with vegetable matter in the form of lettuce, spinach, peas, Spirulina wafers, and fresh, frozen or freeze dried bloodworms and brine shrimp.

Green Chromide (Etroplus suratensis)

Minimum Tank Size: 100 gallons
Care Level: Moderate
Temperament: Relatively Peaceful with similar sized fish
Aquarium Hardiness: Moderately Hardy
Water Conditions: 72°F-80°F° F, KH 10-25, pH 7.0-8.0
Max. Size: 16 inches
Color Form: Green, Yellow, Brown
Diet: Carnivorous
Compatibility: OK with Other Asian cichlids or loaches of similar size
Origin: Sri Lanka
Family: Cichlidae
Lifespan: 6-12 years
Aquarist Experience Level: Advanced

Largescale Archerfish (Toxotes chatareus) are also referred to by tropical fish keeping enthusiasts as the Sevenspot Archerfish and are frequently mixed with Banded Archer Fish (Toxotes jaculatrix) and sold generically as “archer fish“.

Largescale Archerfish are found in the warm water mangrove swamps of Burma, India, Indonesia, Pakistan, Bangladesh, Sri Lanka, Myanmar, Thailand, Vietnam, Laos, Cambodia, New Guinea and northern Australia.   In the Mekong River, they are found as far north as Thailand and Laos.

These interesting fish live in shaded areas of dense growth around overhanging vegetation in brackish mangrove swamps and estuaries, but also frequent freshwater rivers, streams, ponds and lakes.

Juvenile Largescale Archerfish (Toxotes chatareus)

Largescale Archerfish have 5 or 6 dorsal spines with the fourth being the longest, and 12 to 13 soft dorsal rays.

Brackish water specimens have longer dorsal spines than those collected from freshwater areas.   They also have 3 anal spines with 15 to 17 soft rays and an almost square tail fin.

Largescale Archerfish have a sooty, to silvery or gold body color that is greenish brown on the dorsal side.   Their pectoral fins are dusky to clear colored, and their pelvic fins are usually darker and heavily pigmented.

Largescale Archerfish are generally peaceful but may eat much smaller fish in a confined aquarium environment.   They can be aggressive to their own kind, but keeping them in small groups of 5 to 6 specimens will minimize aggression.   In a large brackish water aquarium, they do well with Scats, Monos, Green Chromides and other species of Archer fish.

Like their cousins the Banded Archer Fish (Toxotes jaculatrix) and the Smallscale Archerfish (Toxotes microlepis), their mouths are adapted to spit jets of water over a considerable distance to knock insects, butterflies, moths, bugs, etc. into the water where they can easily feed on them.

Largescale Archerfish can be kept in a large brackish water aquarium densely planted with mangrove roots and other salt tolerant plants, a sandy gravel aggregate with some driftwood, and a few rocks.   Water flow should be kept to a minimum, and the tank water level should be dropped by a few inches to prevent the fish from jumping out of the tank.   A high tank cover is a must for these fish.

Alternately, some tropical fish keeping enthusiasts choose a biotope setup using a large, tall tank, half filled with brackish water with a section of dry land planted with mangrove roots and salt tolerant plants in the upper regions of the tank.   This type of setup promotes the natural feeding behavior of the fish.

Both types of setups need relatively slow water movement, enough lighting to promote plant growth, and good filtration.

Although Largescale Archerfish have been recorded breeding in freshwater in the wild, to date they have never been bred in an aquarium environment. In the wild they have been reported laying huge numbers of eggs numbering in the tens of thousands.

Wild Largescale Archerfish feed on both terrestrial and aquatic invertebrates of various types including small fish on occasion. Archer fish are famous for their unique feeding behavior and their ability to shoot jets of water at insects on overhanging vegetation. The insects fall into the water and are eaten.

When using the biotope paludarium setup described above, their feeding behavior can be replicated by introducing flies or crickets into the setup.   When the insect makes the mistake of venturing onto an overhanging leaf, it will be picked off by the archer fish.

If using a standard freshwater or brackish water tank setup, feed them a variety of live, frozen or freeze dried insects, flies, meal worms, plankton, bloodworms, brine shrimp, and vegetable matter.   They can be taught to accept floating foods such as flakes or pellets, but occasional treats of live or dried insects should be provided.

Largescale Archerfish are not as common as the Banded Archer Fish (Toxotes jaculatrix) and when available, demand a higher price.   They are often mixed with other species of Archer Fish and when available for purchase are juveniles at  2-1/2″ to 4″ in length.

Largescale Archerfish (Toxotes chatareus)

Minimum Tank Size: 125 gallons
Care Level: Moderate
Temperament: Peaceful
Aquarium Hardiness: Moderately Hardy
Water Conditions: 77-86 °F°, 20 – 30°H, pH 7.0-8.0
Max. Size: 16″
Color Form: Black, Yellow
Diet: Omnivore
Compatibility: Freshwater or multiple species brackish water tank
Origin: Indo Pacific
Family: Toxotidae
Life Span: 10 years
Aquarist Experience Level: Advanced

The Banded Archer Fish (Toxotes jaculatrix) also known to tropical fish keeping enthusiasts as the Common Archer Fish or Archer Fish, is found in river mouths and estuaries in the waters of the Indo Pacific, northern Australia, from India east to the Philippine Islands, the waters of the Solomon Islands and the Indonesian Archipelago.

The Banded Archer Fish has four dorsal spines, 11 to 13 soft dorsal rays, and three anal spines.   The fish is silvery in color tinged green, with an olive green to brown back and four to six distinct broad black bars or semi-triangular markings along it sides.   It has an oblong, triangular shaped body with large eyes positioned for binocular vision, a head that is slightly shorter than the body, and a distinctly pointed snout.

Banded Archer Fish (Toxotes jaculatrix)

Juvenile Banded Archer Fish are sometimes colored a yellow green or brown on the dorsal side and more silvery on the ventral side.   The flanks are usually a gray green color.   Some juveniles have irregular yellow patches between their bands.

The Banded Archer Fish (Toxotes jaculatrix) and its relative the Largescale Archerfish (Toxotes chatareus) are sometimes grouped and sold together under the generic label “archerfish“.

The Banded Archer Fish has four dorsal spines whereas the Largescale Archerfish has five.   Also, the Banded Archer Fish usually has four to five semi-triangular bands, compared to the Largescale Archerfish which has six or seven spots and shorter bands in a regular, alternating pattern and is a more sooty color.

Banded Archer Fish are also often confused with the Smallscale Archerfish (Toxotes microlepis).   Both species have four or five wedge shaped bands, but those of the Banded Archerfish extend to the dorsal fin and in the Smallscale Archerfish they do not.   There are also two spots on the dorsal fin separate from the main bar in the Smallscale Archerfish.

All Archer Fish are best known for their unique ability to shoot down their prey (primarily insects) with a jet of water. Their mouths are adapted to spit jets of water over a considerable distance to knock insects, bugs, etc. into the water. Large specimens are capable of accurately shooting a jet of water up to 10 feet away but what is more remarkable is their ability to compensate for water refraction.

Banded Archerfish frequently move between fresh, brackish, and salt water during their lifetimes; but not necessarily for breeding purposes.

All Archer Fish are difficult to maintain in an aquarium environment and should only be kept by advanced tropical fish keeping enthusiasts.

Banded Archer Fish require a large tightly covered tank of at least 125 gallon capacity which should be densely planted with low to medium height plants. A sandy or fine gravel substrate, some rocks and driftwood and plenty of surface room for practicing their “shooting” skills should complete the decor.

Keep the water level of the tank a few inches below normal levels (video above) to allow the fish to practice their shooting skills and minimize any chance of the fish jumping from the tank.

All species of Archer Fish do well in either fresh or brackish water conditions but should be kept in small groups of 3 to 5 fish.   In a brackish water tank they can be housed with Scats, Monos, Puffer fish and other archer species.

Little is known about the breeding habits of the Banded Archerfish but they are capable of breeding when they reach about 4″ in length.   They reproduce by spawning and they normally lay between 20,000 to 150,000 eggs at one time.   Although there are reports of them breeding in captivity, very little success has been reported.

In the wild, Archer Fish come to the surface in the daytime to “shoot down” and feed on insects, floating matter, small fish, and crustaceans.   They also jump out of the water to grab small prey from low hanging branches.

In an aquarium environment they can be induced to eat a variety of live or dried insects, flies, mealworms, freeze dried plankton, and vegetable matter such as dried seaweed fed at the surface on a lettuce clip.

They can also be taught to eat floating omnivore flakes but they prefer to shoot and capture live food rather than being fed flake foods which makes it somewhat problematic to feed them.

Banded Archer Fish are relatively common in the aquarium trade and when available for purchase are anywhere from 2-1/2″ to 4″ in length.

Banded Archer Fish (Toxotes jaculatrix)

Minimum Tank Size: 125 gallons
Care Level: Moderate
Temperament: Peaceful
Aquarium Hardiness: Moderately Hardy
Water Conditions: 77-86 °F°, KH 9-19, pH 7.0-8.0
Max. Size: 12″
Color Form: Black, Yellow
Diet: Omnivore
Compatibility: Freshwater or multiple species brackish water tank
Origin: Indo Pacific
Family: Toxotidae
Life Span: 10 years
Aquarist Experience Level: Advanced

Mono Argentus (Monodactylus argenteus) is also known to tropical fish keeping enthusiasts as Mono Fish, Silver Moony, Moonfish, Silver Moonfish, Diamond Moonfish, Diamondfish, Mono, Silver Batfish, Fingerfish, Kitefish, Singapore Angelfish, or Malayan Angel.

Mono Argentus are widely distributed inland and throughout the coastal areas of the Red Sea, Australian coast, Eastern AFrica and Southeast Asia.

Mono Argentus (Monodactylus argenteus)

Mono Argentus is diamond-shaped, with a flat body that is shiny silver in color, with two vertical black stripes on the front half of the fish.

The first extends through the eye and the other just behind it, through the gill cover.   The dorsal fin has a yellow tint with a black outline.   The anal and caudal fins are colored a light yellow.

Juveniles have a brighter  yellow dorsal fin which adds to their appeal to tropical fish keeping enthusiasts.

Mono Argentus are nervous, peaceful fish that should be kept in schools of at least 6 or more specimens.   Because they grow quite large, they need at least a 55 gallon tank as juveniles.   As they become larger, they should be transitioned into a brackish water environment and placed into at least a 125 gallon aquarium.

Mono Argentus are the quintessential brackish water species.   They are lively, durable, attractively patterned, active, entertaining and mix well with scats and other brackish water species.

They should be housed in a strong brackish water or marine tank with an aragonite sand or gravel substrate, lots of rocks and plants that can survive brackish water, moderate water movement, and good filtration.

Although Mono Argentus spawn in the ocean, the difference between the sexes and their breeding habits is unknown.  The Monodactylus Argenteus has not been successfully bred in captivity however, there have been reports of accidental spawning activity which has never been successfully duplicated.

In the wild, Monos eat small fish, shrimp, and large amounts of vegetable matter.  In an aquarium environment they should be provided with dried Spirulina, Seaweed, algae, peas, lettuce, brine shrimp,  small bits of shrimp, bloodworms, and a quality omnivore flake food.

This species of Monodactylus, Mono Argentus (Monodactylus argenteus) is commonly available in tropical fish keeping shops as juveniles in sizes; Small: 3/4″ to 1-1/2″ and Medium: 1-1/2″ to 2-1/2″.

Mono Argentus (Monodactylus argenteus)

Minimum Tank Size: 125 gallons
Care Level: Moderate
Temperament: Semi-aggressive
Aquarium Hardiness: Moderately Hardy
Water Conditions: 75-82° F, KH 8-12, pH 7.2-8.4
Salinity: 1.006
Max. Size: 11″
Color Form: Silver, White, Black
Diet: Omnivore
Compatibility: Multiple species brackish water tank
Origin: Thailand
Family: Monodactylidae
Life Span: 7 years
Aquarist Experience Level: Intermediate