Tag Archive | "tropical fish keeping"

Dragon Goby (Gobioides broussonnetii)

Dragon Goby (Gobioides broussonnetii)

The Dragon Goby (Gobioides broussonnetii) is a bizarre looking species that is also known to tropical fish keeping enthusiasts as the Violet Goby, Prehistoric Dragon Goby, Eel Goby, Peruvian Goby, and Dragon Fish.

The Dragon Goby is widely distributed throughout the Southern United States, Central America, The Caribbean Islands and Northeastern South America. They have also been recorded in Mexico, Belize, Guyana, French Guyana, Venezuela, Colombia, Brazil, the Cayman Islands, Turks Caicos, Cuba, Haiti, Jamaica, the Dominican Republic and Puerto Rico.

Dragon Gobies can be found in brackish estuarine areas where they congregate over muddy substrates. They are also frequently found in freshwater and in the open waters off estuaries.

 Dragon Goby (Gobioides broussonnetii)


Dragon Goby (Gobioides broussonnetii)

The Dragon Goby (Gobioides broussonnetii) has a long slender eel like body that is purple to lavender in color.

They have a large head and a large mouth that they use to sift vegetable matter and small organisms from the muddy substrate.   Although they grow to 25″ in their natural habitat, aquarium specimens are usually smaller.   There are no visible differences between the sexes.

Despite their large size and specialized feeding requirements, the Dragon Goby’s bizarre appearance has made it popular with tropical fish keeping enthusiasts.   Unfortunately they do not survive long in freshwater.

Gobioides peruanus is a smaller, true freshwater riverine species that grows to only 18″ in their natural habitat and is often sold as Gobioides broussonnetti.   Although they look similar, Gobioides peruanus is thicker and has a more purple colored body.

The true Dragon Goby, or Violet Gogy (Gobioides broussonnetii) is totally unsuitable for a general community aquarium.   However they can be kept with other peaceful brackish water species.   They are territorial with their own kind, but peaceful in nature and will not eat even the smallest tank mate.   They should not be housed with any aggressive brackish water species that out compete them for food and when keeping a group of several Dragon Gobies, a very large tank is needed to minimize bullying.

The Dragon Goby is a timid, burrowing species that is best kept in a 55 gallon or larger aquarium with a soft aragonite sand substrate that is several inches deep, and plenty of smooth rocks, caves, bogwood and plants for them to hide among.   They need hard brackish water that is at least a quarter of the strength of marine water preferably between (1.005-1.015 sg) with a pH of 7.5 to 9.0, an alkalinity of 10-25 dKH, and a temperature range of 73-79°F.   They enjoy spending their time partially buried in the substrate.

Although there are no external differences between sexes,the Dragon Goby can be bred in an aquarium environment.   Small spawning harems of one male to 3 or more females is recommended and the male will spawn with several females over the course of a day.   After spawning, the females should be removed from the tank and the male will continue to guard the eggs until they hatch, usually within 36 to 48 hours.   After hatching, the male should also be removed from the tank.

The fry can be fed green water and rotifers after they absorb their egg sacs, and after a month or so, they will be able to eat freshly hatched baby brine shrimp.

The Dragon Goby is a scavenger that in their natural habitat, feed on detritus and filamentous algae by filtering them from the mud with their mouths.   In an aquarium environment, most specimens will adapt to eating a varied diet of live and frozen bloodworms, brine shrimp, tubifex, pieces of algae wafers, Spirulina, nori, etc.   However, feeding freshly imported specimens can be a problem.   Vegetable matter is essential to the well being of these fish.

Both Gobioides broussonnetii and Gobioides peruanus are sold in tropical fish keeping shops as Dragon Gobies, Peruvian Gobies or Violet Gobies.   Make sure your supplier knows the difference between species before purchasing one for your tank.

Both are commonly available when they are between 4″ and 6″ in length.

 Dragon Goby (Gobioides broussonnetii)


Dragon Goby (Gobioides broussonnetii)

 

 

 

 

 

 

Minimum Tank Size: 55 gallons
Care Level: Moderate
Temperament: Semi-aggressive
Aquarium Hardiness: Moderately Hardy
Water Conditions: 72-80° F, KH 10-25, pH 7.5-9.0
Salinity: between 1.005-1.015
Max. Size: 25″
Color Form: Blue, Purple
Diet: Omnivore
Compatibility: Multiple peaceful species brackish water tank
Origin: Central America, South America
Family: Gobiidae
Life Span: 10 years
Aquarist Experience Level: Intermediate

Posted in Brackish Water Fish, Featured Articles, Oddball Fish, Tropical Fish SpeciesComments (8)

Freshwater Clam (Corbicual sp.)

Freshwater Clam (Corbicual sp.)

The Freshwater Clam (Corbicual sp.) is a temperate species that inhabit rivers and lakes throughout the world.   The pictured specimens comes from Southeast Asia where they are also known as “basket clams” and only grow to about 2 1/2″ in width.

Freshwater Clam (Corbicual sp.)

Freshwater Clam (Corbicual sp.)

Freshwater Clams are actually living filters.   They are an oddball item that some tropical fish keeping enthusiasts use to help maintain water quality in an aquarium.

Freshwater Clams siphon detritus and uneaten food from the water column, clean the water, and naturally lower nitrate levels in the aquarium.

Corbicual sp. should only be kept in tanks with a fine sand or very fine gravel substrate.    When placed on the substrate, they will bury themselves into the sandy bottom until only their siphon tubes can be seen above ground level.

Although these bivalves can be used to help filter the water in any aquarium, several things should be kept in mind before using them.

  • They must be regularly fed and invertebrate food mixture.
  • Do not keep them in aquariums with freshwater puffer fish or other invert eating species.
  • Do not place them into aquariums that have not gone through the Nitrogen cycle.
  • Do not place tap water into an aquarium with freshwater clams. The chlorine is toxic to them.
  • Do not use any copper based medication with Freshwater Clams.   Copper in even minute quantities will kill them.

If your fish need a copper based medication, remove the clams into another aquarium until the treatment is completed and all traces of copper are chemically removed from the tank.   Water changes will not remove all the copper from the aquarium.

  • Remove and dead specimens from the tank immediately.

Several species of Corbiculidae are frequently used in tropical freshwater tanks with excellent results.    The chart below show some of them:

  • Corbicula Megerle von Mühlfeld, (central and southern Africa, Central and southern Asia)
  • Geloina (southern Asia with Malaysia)
  • Cyrenodonax (southern China, Vietnam)
  • Cyrenobatissa (northern Vietnam)
  • Batissa (Malaysia and Indonesia)
  • Corbiculina (eastern Australia)
  • Solielletia (Ethiopia)
  • Polymesoda Rafinesque, 1820 (Gulf coast, and Atlantic coast of northern South America)
  • Neocorbicula Fischer, 1887 (Gulf coast, and Atlantic coast of northern South America)
  • Pseudocyrena (Caribbean side of Central America)
  • Egetaria (Atlantic coast of South America)
  • Villorita (eastern parts of South America)

Freshwater Clams in the family Corbiculidae are ovoviviparous and release many juveniles into the surrounding waters that have hatched inside the clam itself.   Fertilization is internal and the juveniles are much smaller than Pea Clams or Fingernail Clams of the related family Sphaeriidae.

Although some very small Freshwater Clams do not need any special feeding, most tropical fish keeping enthusiasts augment their natural  filter diet with and invertebrate food.   Most freshwater clams in an aquarium environment, even with a full load of fish, will need an additional food source to what they can siphon from the water column.

We highly recommend that you avoid keeping clams in a community aquarium setting as they are destined to die from starvation.   Although they can be successfully kept in a biotope setting when regularly fed with an invert food mixture, most tropical fish keeping enthusiasts have much better success keeping freshwater clams and mussels in ponds where the water is usually substantially dirtier and full of microorganisms for them to filter feed on.

When available for sale, these little “living filters” can be from 1/2″ to 3″ in width, depending on the species.

Freshwater Clam (Corbicual sp.)

Freshwater Clam (Corbicual sp.)

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Minimum Tank Size: 10 gallons
Care Level: Easy
Temperament: N/A
Aquarium Hardiness: Hardy
Water Conditions: 65-85 deg. F, 8-0 GH, pH 6.5-8.0
Max. Size: 1/2″ – 3″″
Color Form: Tan, Brown, Black
Diet: Omnivore
Compatibility: No invert eating species
Origin: Woldwide
Family: Corbiculidae
Lifespan: Unknown
Aquarist Experience Level: All

 

Posted in Featured Articles, Freshwater Fish, Freshwater Invertebrates & Amphibians, Tropical Fish SpeciesComments (0)

Red Tail Hemiodus Tetra (Hemiodus gracilis)

Red Tail Hemiodus Tetra (Hemiodus gracilis)

The Red Tail Hemiodus Tetra (Hemiodus gracilis) is also referred to as the Slender Hemiodus, or Red Hemiodus Tetra by tropical fish keeping enthusiasts, and is found in the floodplains, rivers, and lakes of Venezuela, Guyana, and Brazil, South America.

Red Tail Hemiodus Tetras are a peaceful, skittish, shoaling species that are found in large schools in clean, clear, fast moving highly oxygenated waters and streams with some vegetation.

Red Tail Hemiodus Tetra (Hemiodus gracilis)

Red Tail Hemiodus Tetra (Hemiodus gracilis)

The Red Tailed Hemiodus Tetra has a wiry body that is slightly flattened on the sides with a deeply forked tail.   Their body color is silvery with greenish hues, and they have a black band that begins in the middle of the body and ends at the lower edge of the caudal fin.

An intense red flap directly below the black band on the lower edge of the caudal fin sets the fish off and gives it it’s common ies name.

In their natural habitat Red Tail Hemiodus Tetras can grow over 6″ in length, and when placed in a community aquarium environment, they will often intimidate smaller, more slow moving species.

Although it is classified as being Semi-Aggressive, this is probably due to their nervous nature and large size.   They are fast swimmers and are actually a quite peaceful schooling fish that can be quite shy.

When housed in a single species aquarium, they are best kept in groups of at least 10 or more individuals, and should only be stocked in mature, aged aquariums.

In a community tank they can be kept in a larger Amazon biotope setup in small groups with peaceful cichlids like Geophagus, similarly sized characins, Tatanoperca and Heros, catfish, and Loricariids.   They also go well with rainbowfish, Bala Sharks, Discus, and Angelfish.   They should not be housed with much smaller species.

Red Tail Hemiodus Tetras are best housed in a densely planted aquarium of at least 55 gallons with a sandy or fine gravel substrate, with perhaps some driftwood branches and twisted roots scattered around and plenty of swimming space.   Some floating plants are recommended to calm down the fish and make them less skittish.

They need well filtered, highly oxygenated water to thrive; so a powerhead or two in addition to a canister filter is highly recommended.   Red Tail Hemiodus Tetras can leap surprisingly long distances, so a tight fitting cover is also suggested for their tank.

Because these tetras require a higher water quality than most fish and are sensitive to poor water conditions, regular partial water changes are recommended as routine maintenance.  This is one species that does not do well in small aquariums.

Slender Hemiodus have not been successfully bred in an aquarium environment and not much is known about their breeding habits other than the fact that they are egg scatterers.

Hemiodus gracilis are carnivores and prefer live foods whenever possible.  They will accept a good quality flake food but prefer live, frozen or freeze dried bloodworms, mosquito larvae, brine shrimp, blackworms, etc.

Red Tail Hemiodus Tetra (Hemiodus gracilis) are not a common item in tropical fish keeping shops but they can be purchased online and from specialty shops.   They are moderately priced and are usually between 1 3/4″ to 4″ in length when available for sale.

Red Tail Hemiodus Tetra (Hemiodus gracilis)

Red Tail Hemiodus Tetra (Hemiodus gracilis)

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Minimum Tank Size: 55 gallons
Care Level: Moderate
Temperament: Peaceful
Aquarium Hardiness: Moderately Hardy
Water Conditions: 72-80° F, KH 2-15, pH 5.8-7.2
Max. Size: 6″
Color Form: Silver
Diet: Omnivore
Compatibility: OK with larger species
Origin: South America,
Family: Hemiodontidae
Lifespan: 8 years
Aquarist Experience Level: Intermediate

Posted in Featured Articles, Freshwater Fish, Tetras, Tropical Fish SpeciesComments (0)

Elephantnose Fish (Gnathonemus petersii)

Elephantnose Fish (Gnathonemus petersii)

Elephantnose Fish (Gnathonemus petersii) are widely distributed throughout Africa in Mali, Benin, Niger, Nigeria, Chad, Central African Republic, Cameroon, Republic of Congo, Democratic Republic of Congo and Zambia.

They are a largely nocturnal, scaleless fish that inhabit the dark muddy beds and heavily vegetated areas of slow flowing rivers where they root around the substrate for small worms and crustaceans.

The Elephantnose Fish, also known as Peter’s Elephantnose, is the most common Mormyrid known to tropical fish keeping enthusiasts and probably the most abused.   This is one species that must have a mud or sandy substrate in their aquarium and should never be kept in a tank with gravel.

Peter’s Elephantnose uses its “trunk” or proboscis to locate food hidden in the substrate.   It also needs to be housed under dim lighting.   When it is kept under bright aquarium lighting, they become withdrawn and will eventually waste away.

Elephantnose Fish are scaleless and sensitive to salt and most aquarium medications.   They are also extremely sensitive to deteriorating water quality and are used in many European municipal water supplies to flag deteriorating water conditions.   Like other Mormyrids, they produce a weak electric field using specially adapted muscle tissue located near the fish’s tail.   As the water quality deteriorates and becomes more polluted, the frequency of their electrical discharges increases, signalling poor water quality.

Elephantnose Fish (Gnathonemus petersii)

Elephantnose Fish (Gnathonemus petersii)

Gnathonemus petersii are colored black to dark gray with two white vertical V shaped lines that run from their rear set dorsal fin down to their anal fin.   They have a downward pointing fleshy “nose” or proboscis that they use to burrow around in the substrate for worms.

In addition to the specially adapted muscle tissue at their tail, they also possess electroreceptors that allow them to receive electrical signals through the water column. When the electrical field they generate is disturbed around them, they can sense the most minute movement in the water.   This adaptation is used for communication, finding mates, and for locating their food.

Although some tropical fish keeping enthusiasts suggest that the shape of the anal fin can determine the sex of Peter’s Elephantnose, there is no accurate visible external way to differentiate between sexes.

Elephantnose Fish have very large brains for their size, with three different electroreceptors that carry information to the fish in total darkness. They are able to differentiate between different species and even determine the sex of conspecifics to find mates, all in total darkness.

Elephantnose Fish are quiet but somewhat territorial species.   They do not mix well with other Mormyrids nor should they be housed with aggressive or very active fish.   Unless they are housed in an African single species biotope setting, they should not be kept in pairs.   There is a tendency for one fish to bully the other fish to death.   If more than one fish is to housed together, a minimum of 5 specimens is recommended in a large tank to keep aggression to a minimum.

In a community tank setting, they can be kept with other African species such as Congo Tetras, Synodontis catfish, smaller Bichirs, African Butterfly Fish, peaceful cichlids like Geophagus, Angelfish, or Satanoperca and Ctenopoma species.

Elephantnose Fish are best kept in densely planted 55 gallon or larger aquarium with only a muddy or sandy substrate (NO gravel), some African Driftwood, some smooth river rock made into caves and plenty of hiding places.   Being nocturnal, they need minimal lighting so low light loving plants like Java Fern, Java Moss, Anubias spp. and Vallisneria can be used to aquascape the tank.

A few floating plants
will also help diffuse the lighting in the tank.   A sand substrate is critical to the well being of this species.   When it feeds, it burrows into the substrate with it’s fleshy proboscis like lower lip and when regular aquarium gravel is used, the coarse substrate usually damages their mouth prohibiting it from feeding naturally.

Finally, a good filtration system is needed along with regular partial water changes to maintain water quality and the health of these fish.

To date, no successful spawning has occurred in an aquarium environment.   It is believed that keeping the fish confined causes their electrical impulses to become less defined and that they cannot recognize members of the opposite sex.

Most Elephantnose Fish are not fussy about eating and will accept a wide range of fresh, frozen or freeze dried foods.   They are particularly fond of live tubifex but will eat many other types of meaty foods such as bloodworms, chopped earthworms, brine shrimp, and blackworms.   If you cannot provide suitable lighting for these fish to feed during daylight hours, feed them just before you turn the lights out on the tank at night so they can get their share.

Elephantnose Fish are usually available at most tropical fish shops and online.    They are usually sold when they are between 4″ and 6″ in length.

Elephantnose Fish (Gnathonemus petersii)

Elephantnose Fish (Gnathonemus petersii)

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Minimum Tank Size: 55 gallons
Care Level: Moderate
Temperament: Semi-aggressive
Aquarium Hardiness: Hardy
Water Conditions: 73-82° F, 5-15°H, pH 6.0-7.5
Max. Size: 9″
Color Form: Black
Diet: Carnivore
Compatibility: Peaceful Community Tanks
Origin: Africa
Family: Mormyridae
Lifespan: 6-10 Years
Experience Lever: Intermediate

Posted in Featured Articles, Freshwater Fish, Oddball Fish, Tropical Fish SpeciesComments (2)

Congo Bichir (Polypterus endlicheri congicus)

Congo Bichir (Polypterus endlicheri congicus)

The Congo Bichir (Polypterus endlicheri congicus) is found in the Democratic Republic of Congo, the Congo Republic, along Lake Tanganyika, Tanzania and Zambia, Africa.   They are also known to tropical fish keeping enthusiasts as the Congicus Bichir.

Congo Bichir (Polypterus endlicheri congicus)

Congo Bichir (Polypterus endlicheri congicus)

Congo Bichirs grow to a maximum length of about 39″ and are colored a yellowish brown to gray on their upper body that becomes lighter towards their belly and ventral area.   Their pectoral fins only allow for slow cruising, however they can achieve amazing bursts of speed for short distances using their powerful tails.

They have a slender eel like appearance and a prominent lower jaw similar to Polypterus endlicheri.   Their dorsal spines extend forward to the rear of the pectoral fins, and the males have a wider, thicker anal fin than females of the species.

Congo Bichirs frequent the swamps, marshes, flooded plains, rivers and lakes of their range and like other members of the Polypteridae family, have the ability to survive out of water for short periods as long as they are kept moist.   They posses both a modified paired swim bladder that functions like “lungs”, as well as gills to breathe.   The right side of their swim bladder is larger than the left and is used for breathing atmospheric air. These fish can actually drown if denied access to atmospheric oxygen.

Congo Bichirs are a relatively peaceful, slow moving, predatory species.   In their natural habitat they feed on live or dead fish, crustaceans, worms, amphibians, dead animals, and basically anything they can fit into their mouths.

All Bichir species are relatively peaceful when housed with fish that are too large for them to eat, but they will eventually feast on smaller fish and even other Bichirs if they are smaller.   Providing they are of approximately the same size, the only time Bichirs will squabble between themselves is during feeding.

Congo Bichirs are best kept in a densely planted single species tank of at least 150 gallons with a sand or fine gravel substrate, some driftwood, plenty of caves in the form of smooth rockwork and a lot of bottom tank space.   They prefer a dimly lit tank, and because of their habit of rooting along the bottom, the plants in the aquarium should be potted or have their bases protected by rockwork.   They are “escape artists” and need a tightly fitting aquarium cover with some head space for them to occasionally take a gulp of air.   Like all Polypterus, the Congo Bichir is a messy eater that requires a good filtration system and regular, partial water changes to maintain good water quality.

Congo Bichirs are easy to feed in an aquarium environment.   They will readily accept fresh or frozen shrimp, bloodworms, blackworms, live or dead fish, chopped beef heart, mussels, and earthworms.   They will also occasionally take dry foods such as shrimp or cichlid pellets.   Being a nocturnal species, they should be fed just before turning out the aquarium lights in the evening.

Congo Bichirs are not common but can occasionally be purchased online or from specialty tropical fish shops.   They are costly when available and run approximately $150.00 USD for an 11″ or 12″ young adult.

Congo Bichir (Polypterus endlicheri congicus)

Congo Bichir (Polypterus endlicheri congicus)

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Minimum Tank Size: 150 gallons
Care Level: Difficult
Temperament: Semi-aggressive
Aquarium Hardiness: Hardy
Water Conditions: 72-83° F, 5-20 GH, pH 6.5-8.4 Max.
Size: 38″-48″
Color Form: Tan, Gray
Diet: Carnivore
Compatibility: Peaceful with fish which are to large to eat
Origin: Congo Dem Rep, Congo Rep, Tanzania and Zambia
Family: Polypteridae
Lifespan: 12 Years
Aquarist Experience Level: Intermediate

 

Posted in Bichir & Ropefish, Featured Articles, Freshwater Fish, Tropical Fish SpeciesComments (0)

Weeksii Bichir (Polypterus weeksii)

Weeksii Bichir (Polypterus weeksii)

The Weeksii Bichir (Polypterus weeksii) is also known to tropical fish keeping enthusiasts as the Mottled or Fatheaded Bichir.    It is found in the Congo River basin in Central Africa and like others of the family Polypteridae, they have the ability to survive out of water for short periods of time provided they remain moist.

Like the Retropinnis Bichir (Polypterus retropinnis), they posses a modified paired swim bladder that has the function of “lungs”, as well as a set of gills.   These fish can actually drown if they are unable to surface to take a gulp of atmospheric air.

Weeksii Bichir (Polypterus weeksii)

Weeksii Bichir (Polypterus weeksii)

Weeksii Bichirs are snakelike in appearance with a large head and a dorsal fin that merges with the caudal and anal fins.   Their pectoral fins are used for crawling when out of water and for mobility when on the bottom of the aquarium.

They are greenish brown in color with black banding. Males have a thicker anal fin than females of the species and are usually a bit smaller.

Weeksii Bichirs are best housed in a densely planted, dimly lit aquarium, with a sandy or fine gravel substrate, a few pieces of driftwood, plenty of smooth rockwork in the form of caves to hide among, and plenty of bottom space.   As juveniles they can be housed in a tank as small as 20 gallons but as they grow into adults, they will need a tank of at least 100 gallons.

Like most other Bichirs, the Weeksii Bichir is relatively peaceful with other large passive fish as long as there is plenty of open swimming space and a lot of dense cover.   They are nocturnal feeders and should not be trusted with tank mates small enough to fit into their mouths.   They get along well with other Polypterus of the same size but will squabble over food during feedings.

Polypterus weeksii are messy eaters, so a good filtration system and frequent partial water changes are a must.   They are also “escape artists” and need a tight fitting tank cover with enough head space to allow them access to atmospheric oxygen.

Although breeding the Weeksii Bichir has not been recorded in an aquarium environment, their breeding habits are believed to be similar to that of other Polypterus species.   During the rainy season, changes in temperature and water chemistry spark spawning behavior.   These conditions are difficult to replicate in an aquarium but a large densely planted tank with soft, slightly acidic water and dim lighting may induce spawning behavior.

When ready to spawn, the male Mottled Bichir will chase and nudge the female until she submits.   The male cups his anal and caudal fins around the female to receive her eggs which are immediately fertilized and scattered among the vegetation in the aquarium.   The parents should be immediately removed from the tank at this point.   The eggs hatch in 3 to 4 days and are free swimming about 3 to 4 days later.   The fry are slow moving and should be fed newly hatched baby brine shrimp or microworms with an eye dropper until they are able to eat larger fare.

Adult Weeksii Bichirs are easy to feed and will generally accept a quality carnivore pellet or stick however, they prefer live or frozen foods such as mysis shrimp, brine shrimp, chopped beef heart, bloodworms, chunks of raw fish, earthworms, blackworms or fresh market shrimp.  They should  be fed once or twice a day as much as they can consume in five minutes.

Because they are a slow moving nocturnal species and have poor eyesight,  feed Weeksii Bichirs in the evening just before turning off the light on your aquarium.  They have a well developed sense of smell that gives them an advantage over their tank mates when eating at night.

Weeksii Bichirs are available on a seasonal basis from specialty tropical fish keeping shops and online, but they are not a common stock item in most shops.   When available for sale they are usually about 3″ to 5″in length.    Most are wild caught and could carry parasites or have infections so it is advisable to keep them isolated until given a clean bill of health.

Weeksii Bichir (Polypterus weeksii)

Weeksii Bichir (Polypterus weeksii)

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Minimum Tank Size: 100 gallons
Care Level: Difficult
Temperament: Semi-aggressive
Aquarium Hardiness: Hardy
Water Conditions: 77-83° F, KH 1-12, pH 6.5-8.0
Max. Size: 22″
Color Form: Green, Tan
Diet: Carnivore
Compatibility: Keep with others of same size
Origin: Congo River basin in the Republic of Congo, Democratic Republic of Congo
Family: Polypteridae
Lifespan: 10 Years
Aquarist Experience Level: Intermediate

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Retropinnis Bichir (Polypterus retropinnis)

Retropinnis Bichir (Polypterus retropinnis)

The Retropinnis Bichir (Polypterus retropinnis) is known to tropical fish keeping enthusiasts as the West African Bichir or Speckled Bichir and is found in the Congo River basin in Western Africa and has been recorded in Benin, Gaboon, Nigeria, Cameroon, the Democratic Republic of Congo, Liberia, Ghana, and the Congo Republic.

Retropinnis Bichirs frequent the swamps, marshes, flooded forests and smaller rivers of their range and like other members of the Polypteridae family, have the ability to survive out of water for short periods as long as they are kept moist.    They posses both a modified paired swim bladder that has the function of “lungs”, as well as gills to breathe.    The right side of their swim bladder is larger than the left and is used for breathing atmospheric air.   These fish can actually drown if denied access to atmospheric oxygen.

Retropinnis Bichir (Polypterus retropinnis)

Retropinnis Bichir (Polypterus retropinnis)

Speckled Bichirs have a snakelike body with a blunt tapered head.    They are largely nocturnal and have poor vision, but an excellent sense of smell.    They are yellowish brown in color and are covered with dark patches that extend from their dorsal fin downwards over their body.

Males can be distinguished from females by their thicker anal fins.    Juvenile Polypterus retropinnis have external “water dog like” gills that disappear as the fish grows into adulthood.

In an aquarium environment when they are provided with plenty of swimming area and places for them to hide, they are not usually aggressive towards their tank mates, however, they are nocturnal hunters and will swallow any invert or fish that they can get into their mouths if they get the opportunity to do so.

Some acceptable tankmates include other Polypterus species, Synodontis cats, Datnoides, Knife Fish, larger Ctenopoma species, medium size characins and African Butterfly Fish.

They are best kept in a single species tank of at least 55 gallon capacity with a sandy or fine gravel substrate, some driftwood

bogwood roots, some rocks formed into crevices, and a few aquatic plants to suit your taste.    They prefer a dimly lit aquarium, and because they are prone to jumping, a tight fitting lid is a must.    When housed with other Bichirs, up-size their aquarium to at least 100 gallons.

Retropinnis Bichirs have not been reportedly bred in captivity, however their breeding habits are similar to other of other Polypterus species. During the rainy season, changes in water chemistry and temperature are believed to induce spawning.

If you would like to try breeding this species, provide them with a large densely planted tank with soft, slightly acidic water.    They are egg scatterers and will deposit their eggs on the vegetation or spawning mops.    Courtship involves the males chasing the female and nudging her until spawning commences.    The male cups his anal and caudal fins around the female’s genitals as he collects and fertilizes them, and then scatters them amongst the plants or breeding mops.    They will eat their eggs and should be immediately removed from the tank as soon as the eggs are scattered.

The eggs hatch out in 3 or 4 days and the fry are free swimming about 3 days later.    The fry are not very mobile so feed them microworms or newly hatched baby brine shrimp with an eye dropper to ensure they have access to plenty of food.

Retropinnin Bichirs are carnivorous by nature and will not usually accept dried foods in an aquarium environment.   They will accept live or frozen shrimp, prawns, mussels, earthworms, chopped meat or small fish. Because they are nocturnal, it is best to feed them during the evening just before turning off the lights on your aquarium.

Retropinnin Bichirs are a relatively common item in tropical fish keeping shops and are usually offered for sale when they are approximately 3″ to 6″ in length.    Prices vary and albino specimens always demand a higher price.

Retropinnis Bichir (Polypterus retropinnis)

Retropinnis Bichir (Polypterus retropinnis)

 

 

 

 

 

Minimum Tank Size: 55 gallons
Care Level: Difficult
Temperament: Semi-aggressive
Aquarium Hardiness: Hardy
Water Conditions: 77-83° F, 5-25H, pH 6.5-8.0
Max. Size: 14″
Color Form: Tan, Yellow
Diet: Carnivore
Compatibility: Keep with others of same size
Origin: West Africa
Family: Polypteridae
Lifespan: 10 Years
Aquarist Experience Level: Intermediate

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Spotted African Lungfish (Protopterus dolloi)

Spotted African Lungfish (Protopterus dolloi)

The Spotted African lungfish (Protopterus dolloi) is also referred to by tropical fish keeping enthusiasts as the Slender Lungfish and is found in middle Africa, the lower Congo River, the Kouilou-Niari, and the Ogowe River basins.

Spotted African Lungfish live in the temporary floodplains, riverbeds, swamps, marshes, and backwaters of the above basins and during spawning season can be found in open water.

Albino Spotted African Lungfish (Protopterus dolloi)

Albino Spotted African Lungfish (Protopterus dolloi)

These lungfish have the eel like body that all species posses and are generally brown in color.   Juveniles have black spots spattered throughout the entire body which are lost as they become adults.

Like all Protopteridae species, they are capable of aestivation however, this species generally does not aestivate.

Adult Spotted African Lungfish require a large aquarium of at least 100 gallon capacity.   Juveniles can be housed in a smaller aquariums but will eventually outgrow their accommodations.    Because lungfish are not very active, they only need enough room in their tank to move around freely.

Spotted African Lungfish are best kept in a single species tank with a mud, sand, or very fine gravel substrate.   Except for keeping water movement to a minimum, they are not very fussy about their accommodations.    A few aquatic plants, some driftwood roots and smooth rocks for them to hide among is all that is required, but since they are “escape artists” they should have a tightly fitting cover over their tank with enough of an air gap for them to surface for atmospheric oxygen when they need to breathe.    They also prefer a dimly lit tank.

Lungfish are messy eaters and although they are tolerant of a wide range of water parameters, an outside canister filter should be used to keep their water clean to minimize the possibility of disease.

Spotted African lungfish have not been bred in captivity and there is no external difference between sexes.    In their natural habitat their nests can be found during the breeding season from June through October, which coincides with the rainy season.

Like the Marbled Lungfish (Protopterus aethiopicus) the males dig a nest in the mud and line it with aquatic vegetation.   After the females deposits her eggs and the male fertilizes them,  the male will guard the eggs and later the fry, until they lose their gill like appendages and become air breathing.    The females normally play no role in the rearing the young and move into open water after the eggs are deposited.

Protopterus dolloi are omnivorous and in their natural habitat feed on invertebrates, fish, worms, amphibians, and vegetable matter.   In an aquarium environment they will eat a variety of foods such as mussels, clams, prawn, shrimp, fish, earthworms and vegetable matter.    Most will adapt to eating algae wafers and other prepared foods but adults should be fed a diet of fish.

Spotted African Lungfish should be fed twice a day as juveniles and only a couple of times a week as adults.    They do not need food on a daily basis once they become adults.

Although Protopterus dolloi are easy to keep and extremely hardy, they are only recommended for intermediate to advanced tropical fish keeping enthusiasts.    They are longlived and have a lifespan of over 20 years, so a commitment must be made prior to purchasing this species to keep them for an extended period.

Slender Lungfish are available from specialty fish shops and over the internet at modest to high prices. Their availability is usually limited.

Spotted African Lungfish (Protopterus dolloi)

Spotted African Lungfish (Protopterus dolloi)

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Minimum Tank Size: 100 gallons
Care Level: Moderately Difficult
Temperament: Semi-Aggressive
Aquarium Hardiness: Hardy
Water Conditions: 75 to 86° F, 2-15 dH, pH 6.0-7.5
Maximum Size: 52″
Color Form: Brown
Diet: Carnivore
Compatibility: Single Species Tank
Origin:
Family: Protopteridae
Lifespan: 25 Years
Aquarist Experience Lever: Intermediate

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Gilled African lungfish (Protopterus amphibius)

Gilled African lungfish (Protopterus amphibius)

Gilled African lungfish Protopterus amphibius

Gilled African lungfish Protopterus amphibius

The Gilled African lungfish (Protopterus amphibius) also known by tropical fish keeping enthusiasts as the East African Lungfish, is found in Kenya, Somalia, and Mozambique, East Africa and the delta of the Zambezi River.

Gilled African Lungfish are the smallest of the extant lungfish that seldom grow longer than 17 inches in length.    Their bodies are a slate gray or a uniform blue color with a light pale gray belly and are covered with small inconspicuous black spots.   All African Lungfish have soft scales, pelvic fins that look more like ropelike spaghetti appendages that they use to crawl around in the mud, and are eel like in appearance.   Their dorsal, caudal, and tail fins are all fused to form a single fin like structure.

Gilled African lungfish (Protopterus amphibius)

Juvenile Gilled African lungfish (Protopterus amphibius)

Like all African lungfish they posses two lungs (modified air bladders) which enable them to breathe air.   They are actually a highly vascularized pocket of the digestive tract where gulped air is stored to oxygenate the blood that runs through the organ.

Their heart has also adapted to pump oxygenated and deoxygenated blood in separate streams to different parts of their body.   This enables them to burrow into the mud and envelop themselves in a mucous cocoon during extended dry periods for months, to several years.

The process, known as estivation, allows the Gilled African Lungfish to lower it’s metabolic rate and survive severe droughts that normally deplete fish populations.

Gilled African Lungfish are found in swamps and flood plains where they can survive for months under the dried mud.   They are dug up and eaten for food by some natives of the area, however they reportedly have a strong taste and are not widely enjoyed.   The numbers lost to this practice are minimal.

Gilled African Lungfish are voracious eaters and their teeth are made for eating.   Their upper jaw has two rounded teeth at the front, having a hard bridge that moves from side to side.   Their lower jaw is equipped with numerous crushing teeth.   The lungfish first sucks the prey into their mouth to thoroughly crush it, and then chews the broken carcass thoroughly until it is swallowed.

Because African Lungfish are highly aggressive carnivores, they are best kept in a single species aquarium.   They are fearless and will attack any tankmate that moves in their vicinity.    They should be housed in at least a 30 gallon aquarium with a mud, sand, or very fine gravel substrate, some aquatic plants and driftwood roots for them to hide among, and dimmed lighting.

Although they are not particularly sensitive to water quality and can survive in stagnant, abnormal aquatic conditions, they should still have a good canister filter to keep their tank water clear.    Except when they need to surface to gulp oxygen from the atmosphere, they are mot very active and spend the time at the bottom of the aquarium.

The breeding season for Gilled African lungfish starts at the end of winter, which coincides with the beginning of the rainy season.    They reproduce by laying eggs which are fertilized externally by the males.   The males build a nest or “pit” in the mud and lines it with plants.   After the females lay their eggs, the male will guard them and oxygenate them until they hatch.

The 3.5 to 4 millimeter diameter white colored eggs hatch in approximately one week.   The tiny larvae look like tadpoles and have long, fan
like gills similar to newts that they initially use to breathe.   For the first three weeks or so the male will continue guarding the fry.   As the fry grow, they will undergo a metamorphosis of sorts that replaces their gills with openings that they will use to start breathing air into their lungs.

Gilled African Lungfish are highly versatile in their eating habits and will even eat dry food when trained to do so.   They are carnivores that prefer eating small fish, shrimp, invertebrates, amphibians, crayfish, clams, worms, and anything they can fit into their mouths.   When the food is too large for their mouths, they will nibble small pieces from it.

Gilled African Lungfish are rarely available to tropical fish keeping enthusiasts but can be “specialty ordered” online and from some specialty tropical fish shops.

Gilled African lungfish (Protopterus amphibius)

Gilled African lungfish (Protopterus amphibius)

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 
Minimum Tank Size: 30 gallons
Care Level: Moderately Difficult
Temperament: Semi-Aggressive
Aquarium Hardiness: Moderately Hardy
Water Conditions: 77.0 to 86.0° F, 2 – 20 dGH, pH 6.0-8.0
Maximum Size: 17″
Color Form: Gray, Light Blue
Diet: Carnivore
Compatibility: Single Species Tank
Origin: Africa
Family: Protopteridae
Lifespan: 20-25 Years
Aquarist Experience Lever: Intermediate

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South American lungfish (Lepidosiren paradoxa)

South American lungfish (Lepidosiren paradoxa)

The South American lungfish (Lepidosiren paradoxa) is the only species of lungfish found in South America.

It frequents swamps and slow moving waters in the Amazon, Rio Paraguay, and lower Paraná River basins, and is known to tropical fish keeping enthusiasts as the American Mud Fish, Amazonian Lungfish, or Scaly Salamanderfish.    It is found in smaller numbers in Venezuela, Peru, Columbia, Brazil, French Guiana, Paraguay and Argentina, but the largest populations are predominately found in the Pio Parana and Rio Paraguay basins.

South American lungfish (Lepidosiren paradoxa)

Juvenile South American lungfish (Lepidosiren paradoxa)

Juvenile South American lungfish are black spotted with gold, but as they grow into adulthood, their body colors fade into a gray or brown color.

Like all Dipnoi, South American lungfish have an elongated body.   Their pectoral and anal fins are thin, ropey,  and almost thread thread like in appearance.    Their pelvic fins are set back and to the rear of the body, and are somewhat larger than their pectoral fins.   Their dorsal fin begins about midway up the body to joins with the caudal fin underneath.

Although they posses gills as juveniles, they become non functional as they become adults.    Adults posses fused teeth that become heavily mineralized and are used for crushing their prey before swallowing.

In their natural habitat, juvenile South American Lungfish primarily feed on snails and insect larvae.    As they attain adulthood, they become more omnivorous and add algae, fish, and shrimp to their diets.

South American Lungfish have two “lungs” which are actually modified swim bladders that allow them to absorb oxygen and remove wastes.   In waters with low oxygen content, they are able to breathe air through their swim bladders instead of their gills.   If kept underwater, these lungfish will drown if they are unable to surface for a gulp of air.

During the dry seasons as their habitat gradually disappear, they burrow into the mud and produce a mucous lined chamber that is usually between 12″ and 20″ below the surface of the soil.   A few holes are left in the chamber with access to the surface for air.   During this aestivation, their metabolism and activity slows down almost to a complete stop and if necessary, they can remain this way for up to 4 years.    As the rainy season begins again, they come out of their burrows and immediately begin mating.

South American Lungfish are large, messy fish, but relatively easy to keep in an aquarium environment.   Because they are highly predatory, they

are best housed alone.   They do require a good filtration system to keep their tank water clear and regular bi-weekly water changes of 20% to 30% are recommended, but they do not need need a lot of swimming area and can survive a wide range of water conditions.

Because they grow to over 4 feet long, South American Lungfish require a large tank of at least 60 gallons (initially) with very little water movement, a mud, sandy, or very fine gravel substrate, some aquatic plants and driftwood roots for them to hide among, and dim lighting.

Because of their soft skin, avoid placing any sharp rocks or coarse gravel in the tank and because of their large size as adults, a canister filter and outside heater is recommended to prevent damage to the equipment.

South American Lungfish are not very active and will spend most of their time on or near the bottom of the tank.   They will surface occasionally to take a gulp of air, therefore the water surface should be unobstructed and their tank should never be tightly covered.   Remember that these fish will drown without air.

The South American Lungfish has not been bred in captivity but in their natural environment, the adults will construct a tunnel type of hole “or nest” in the mud that they line with vegetal matter.   They go into the “nest”, seal it off, lay their eggs, and guard them even hatching.

During the breeding season, the adults do not breathe through their lungs.    Instead they breath with their gills and some thin branched appendages that temporarily develop in the males during the breeding season.   These appendages are actually highly vascularized structures on the male’s pelvic fins that release additional oxygen into the nest.    When the eggs hatch, the young lungfish larvae look like little tadpoles with four branched external gills, similar to those of newts.    After 7 weeks, the young metamorphosize into their adult form, become air breathing, and exchange their external gills for gill openings.

South American Lungfish are easy to feed.    The easiest way to feed them is to provide live, fresh dead, or fresh pieces of fish.   They will also eat shrimp, crayfish, crabs, clams, insects, snails, worms, or anything that they can catch and fit into their mouths.    Juveniles should be fed two times a day but adults only need to be fed two to three times a week.    Occasional feedings of vegetable matter should also be given to round out their diet.

South American Lungfish are not a common item in tropical fish keeping shops but are usually available as a “special order” item at a moderate cost.

South American lungfish (Lepidosiren paradoxa)

South American lungfish (Lepidosiren paradoxa)

 

 

 

 

 

 

 
Minimum Tank Size: 60 gallons
Care Level: Difficult
Temperament: Semi-Aggressive
Aquarium Hardiness: Moderately Hardy
Water Conditions: 75.0 to 82.0° F, 2 – 20 dGH, pH 6.0-8.0
Size: 49.3″
Color Form: Brown, Gray
Diet: Carnivore
Compatibility: Single Species Only
Origin: South America
Family: Lepidosirenidae
Lifespan: 8-20 Years
Aquarist Experience Lever: Intermediate

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Queensland Lungfish (Neoceratodus forsteri)

Queensland Lungfish (Neoceratodus forsteri)

The Queensland Lungfish (Neoceratodus forsteri) is the sole surviving member of the family Ceratodontidae and is known to tropical fish keeping enthusiasts as the Australian lungfish, Barramunda, or Burnett Salmon.

The Queensland lungfish is truly a “living fossil” and one of only six species remaining in modern times. Of the six known surviving members of ancient air breathing lungfishes (Dipnoi) that flourished during the Devonian period (about 413–365 million years ago), it is the most primitive.

Like all lungfish, the Queensland lungfish has the ability to “breathe” out of water for extended periods however, unlike their African and South American cousins, it has gills and their skin must be kept moist to survive.   South American and African lungfish lack gills and can survive their annual dry seasons by secreting a mucous cocoon around their bodies and burying themselves in the mud.

The five other freshwater lungfish species are very different morphologically from Neoceratodus forsteri in that they have two lungs.
Queensland lungfish have only one dorsal lung that is actually a modified swim bladder used to supplement the oxygen supply through their gills during periods of drought or high temperatures when the waters become deoxygenated. During these conditions, the lungfish can rise to the surface to gulp air into it’s lung.

Although the Queensland lungfish is native only to the Mary and Burnett River systems in south eastern Queensland; they have been successfully introduced into the Brisbane, Albert, Stanley, Pine, Caboolture, Condamine, and Coomera Rivers, as well as the Enoggera Reservoir.

Queensland lungfish live in the still, slow moving waters of rivers and reservoirs that have some aquatic vegetation present.   They can be found in small groups under submerged logs, caves formed by the erosion of substrate from tree roots along river banks, or in dense banks of aquatic macrophytes.

They frequent slow moving pools that are anywhere from 10 to 35 feet deep, and are equally comfortable over mud, sandy, or gravel bottoms.

Although the Queensland lungfish is tolerant of the cold, it prefers water temperatures between 59 and 78 degrees F.

Queensland Lungfish are a sedentary species that spend their entire lives in a relatively restricted area. Their home territories seldom extend beyond a single deep pool or two adjacent pools, and except from July through December when they may seek out suitable spawning areas, they do not follow any set migratory paths.    Although they are sluggish and inactive, they are capable of rapid movement with a flick of their strong tail.    They are a nocturnal species that is usually more active during the late afternoon and evening hours than during the day.

Queensland Lungfish (Neoceratodus forsteri)

Queensland Lungfish (Neoceratodus forsteri)

Queensland lungfish are colored an olive green to a dull brown on the back, sides, tail, and fins, and a pale yellow to orange on the underside. Males have a reddish color along their sides that becomes much brighter during the breeding season and is the only distinguishing sexual characteristic of the species.

Queensland lungfish are the largest of all the known species of lungfish.   They have elongated bodies, flattened heads with small beady eyes, and small mouths that are positioned low on their heads.

They are slow growers that commonly reach lengths of almost 5 feet and weigh in at close to 100 pounds.   On average they weigh around 20 pounds and are a little over 3 feet in length with females being slightly larger.

The bodies of Queensland Lungfish are slimy and covered with large bony scales.    They have large, long, powerful tails; fleshy, flipper like pectoral fins, and fleshy, flipper like pelvic fins that are situated far back on the body. Their dorsal fins begin in the middle of the back and merge with the caudal and anal fins.

The scales of these fish overlap extensively and are embedded in their own pockets to protect vulnerable body areas of the fish that are covered by a thickness of at least four scales.   Their heads are also covered by very large, thick, interlocking scales that protect their thin bony skull.

The skeleton of the lungfish is partly cartilage and partly bone.   Their vertebrae are pure cartilage, but their ribs are hollow tubes filled with a cartilaginous substance.   They also have unusual teeth.   Two flat, slightly bent incisors are on the upper jaw with dental plates on the upper and lower jaws.

Juvenile Queensland lungfish are mottled with a base color of olive brown or gold. As they age, the mottling disappears but dark patches still remain. Juveniles are also able to change colors rapidly in response to different lighting conditions.   This trait disappears as their colors become denser.

Juveniles also have different body proportions than mature adults.   Their heads are rounder, the fins are smaller, and the body is more slender. Their mouth is located at the front of their head but shifts back as the fish grows and their dorsal fin begins at the back of the head but gradually moves to the center of their back as they mature.

Queensland Lungfish (Neoceratodus forsteri)

Queensland Lungfish (Neoceratodus forsteri)

The Queensland lungfish spawn and live their entire lives in freshwater.   Males are capable of spawning at 17 years of age and females at 22 years. They spawn in pairs from August to December before the spring rains, and reportedly go through an elaborate courtship.    Spawning activity is believed to be stimulated by the length of the day and they will spawn during daylight or at night.

Their eggs are deposited on aquatic plants in flowing streams that are at least three feet deep and immediately fertilized by the males.   They do not make a nest, guard their eggs, or exhibit any parental care for their young.    They are selective of their spawning sites and although their eggs have been observed on aquatic plants that are rooted in sand and gravel in fast moving waters, in full sun and in the shade; they will never deposit their eggs on plants that are covered with slimy algae, in stagnant water, or in water with floating debris on the surface.

The sticky eggs are hemispherical in shape, enclosed in a triple jelly envelope, and are about .39″ in size.   They are deposited by the female singly or sometimes in pairs but never in large clusters and the “stickiness” disappears shortly after the egg is attached to an underwater plant.

A female Queensland lungfish has the capacity to lay several hundred eggs but they seldom produce more than a few hundred during their lifetimes. They do not spawn every year but have cycles that seem to peak every five years or so, regardless of environmental conditions.    The eggs resemble those of a frogs eggs and hatch out after 3 to 4 weeks.   The young look like little tadpoles and are extremely slow growing.   They do not eat for 2 to 3 weeks until their egg sacs are absorbed.    By the time their egg sacs are absorbed, the fry develop a spiral valve in the intestine which allows them to feed.    After 100 days or so, they will be about 1″ in length, and at 8 months, only 2 1/2″ long.    Under optimal conditions, their growth rate is only about 2 inches a month.

Adult Queensland lungfish have a high survival rate and are extremely long lived.    They usually live to at least 20 or 30 years in their natural habitat but a specimen in the Shedd Aquarium in Chicago nicknamed “Granddad”, is at least 80 years old and has been there since 1933.

The Queensland lungfish is carnivorous and in the wild, its prey includes frogs, tadpoles, fishes, crayfish, crabs, a variety of invertebrates, and plant material.

Juveniles and lungfish larvae are bottom feeders and will eat small Tubifex worms, small crustaceans, earthworms, and filamentous algae.    As they grow into adulthood in captivity, they will feed on frogs, earthworms, shrimp, pieces of meat, and pelleted food.

The Australian lungfish is currently CITES protected but occasionally available to the trade through licensed breeders.    They are usually quite expensive ($700.00 or more) for a single specimen and considerably more for albino specimens.

Queensland Lungfish (Neoceratodus forsteri)

Queensland Lungfish (Neoceratodus forsteri)

 

 

 

 

 

 

 
Minimum Tank Size: 100 gallons
Care Level: Difficult
Temperament: Aggressive
Aquarium Hardiness: Extremely Hardy
Water Conditions: 59-79° F, KH 1-12, pH 6.0-7.5
Max. Size: 5′
Color Form: Gold, Olive Green
Diet: Carnivore
Compatibility: Single Species Only
Origin: Central Africa Family: Polypteridae
Lifespan: Up to 80 Years
Aquarist Experience Lever: Intermediate

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Poecilocharax bovalii

Poecilocharax bovalii Tetra

Poecilocharax bovalii are found only in the Potaro River in Guyana up to Kaieteur Falls. They are exceptionally rare to tropical fish keeping enthusiasts and are difficult to maintain when available.

Poecilocharax bovalii are a shy, fast moving, bottom dwelling species that inhabit slow moving blackwater forest ponds where they feed on a variety of small aquatic invertebrates and insects.   In their natural environment they are found among decaying organic matter over soil or sandy bottoms that are usually littered with branches, sunken driftwood, and leaves in various states of decay.

Apistogramma, Characidium, Copella, Moenkhausia, Hemigrammus, Fluviphylax, and gobies are also commonly found in these conditions.

Poecilocharax bovalii

Poecilocharax bovalii

Male Poecilocharax bovalii grow to a length of 1.5″ to 1.75″, are more brightly colored, and have significantly increased dorsal and anal fins.

Their body shape somewhat resembles that of a goby or a Killy fish that has more developed and colored dorsal and anal fins than the females. Females are smaller, fuller in the body and much more pale than males.

In an aquarium environment, Poecilocharax bovalii require very soft acidic water (pH below 6) that is totally free from nitrates.    Their water must by aerated, highly filtered (preferably with a peat filter), and frequently changed to keep them free from disease.

Male Poecilocharax bovalii are shy but somewhat pugnacious and should be housed in a large densely planted aquarium with plenty of hiding places and a fine dark sand, or mixed sand and earth substrate .

They do best in a biotope setting with plenty of leaf litter on the bottom for them to hide among and feed, some driftwood branches, and a moderate degree of water movement.   If possible 8 to 10 specimens should be housed together and although they lead a very private life, they will get along with other calm peaceful species like Apistogramma, small catfish and some of the smaller toothcarps.

Feeding Poecilocharax bovalii can be difficult.   They require live foods and should be fed a diet of small crustaceans, live brine shrimp, live bloodworms, etc.   They will not eat foods that are not moving.

Nothing is known about the breeding habits of this species.

Poecilocharax bovallii is almost never available to tropical fish keeping enthusiasts.   Usually any specimens obtained are as a bycatch with shipments of tetras from Guyana, Brazil.

Poecilocharax bovalii

Poecilocharax bovalii

 

 

 

 

 
Minimum Tank Size: 25 gallons
Care Level: Very Difficult
Temperament: Peaceful, Shy
Aquarium Hardiness: Delicate
Water Conditions: 73-80° F, dH 2-8, pH 5.5-7.0
Max Size: 1.9”
Color Form: Brown, Black
Diet: Carnivore
Compatibility: Single species biotope
Origin: Potaro River, Guyana
Family: Crenuchidae
Lifespan: 3-4 years
Aquarist Experience Level: Advanced

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Purple Emperor Tetra (Inpaichthys kerri) School

Purple Emperor Tetra (Inpaichthys kerri)

The Purple Emperor Tetra (Inpaichthys kerri) is found in sluggish tributaries off the main river channels of the Rio Aripuanã and upper Rio Madeira basins, in Brazil and are known to tropical fish keeping enthusiasts as the Blue Emperor Tetra, Inpaichthys Tetra, Regal Emperor Tetra, or Royal Emperor Tetra.

They are a peaceful shoaling species that inhabit acidic, tannin stained waters in forested areas of their range and are often confused with the Emperor Tetra (Nematobrycon palmeri).   They are easily distinguished by the fact that Inpaichtys kerri possess an adipose fin, which Nematobrycon palmeri does not.

Purple Emperor Tetra (Inpaichthys kerri) Female

Purple Emperor Tetra (Inpaichthys kerri) Female

The Purple Emperor Tetra is colored a brilliant purple blue with a black to purplish line running from the mouth of fish to the base of the caudal fin. The translucent ventral, anal and caudal fins are tinged yellow and their dorsal fins are colored various shades of red. Both sexes possess an adipose fin and males are generally more brightly colored and less plump than females.

Females are much less colorful and have a stockier shaped body than males. They also have a predominantly red adipose fin, whereas the adipose fin in males is blue.

Purple Emperor Tetras are a peaceful species that can be housed in a single species biotope setup in small pods of 6 or more individuals, or with other small to medium sized species in a community tank environment. Other Tetras, Rasboras, Hatchetfish, Gourami, peaceful Barbs, small Cory cats and Ram Cichlids make good tank mates. Avoid any boisterous species like Barbs or Danios that would out compete them for food and territories.

They do best when housed in a densely planted aquarium with a dark sandy or fine gravel substrate, some bogwood or driftwood roots, a few floating plants to diffuse the lighting, and plenty of swimming areas with low to moderate water currents. Because their natural environment is in tannin colored slow moving jungle streams, a few handfuls of crushed Indian Almond Leaves is beneficial to the biotope. The darker substrate, dense vegetation and driftwood roots will bring out the brilliant blue and purple colors of the Purple Emperor Tetra and provide them with a sense of security.

Purple Emperor Tetras have been spawned in an aquarium environment but a separate breeding tank is needed if you plan to successfully raise a number of fry to adulthood.

The breeding tank should be dimly lit and contain a number fine leaved plants or several clumps of Java Moss for the fish to deposit their eggs on. Many successful breeders use a couple of spawning mops in a small tank or cover the bare bottom of the tank with a coarse mesh that is just large enough for the eggs to fall through, yet small enough so the parents cannot eat the eggs.

The water in the breeding tank should have a pH between 5.5 and 6.5, a water temperature between 75-82°F, and a hardness of gH 1-5. Fit the tank with a small seeded air powered sponge filter and either add crushed Indian Almond Leaves to the tank several weeks before introducing the fish to the tank or filter the water through peat.

When the water parameters are met, introduce a well conditioned group of 6 to 12 specimens of each sex to the tank. The fish can be conditioned by feeding them as much live mosquito larvae, mircoworms, Daphnia, or other small foods that they can eat.

Breeders also spawn Purple Emperor Tetras in pairs by conditioning them in segregated groups and placing them together only when the females are noticeably full of eggs and the males are displaying their best breeding colors. The best pair should be placed in the breeding tank in the evening. Spawning will usually take place the next morning.

Regardless of which method is used, the parents will eat the eggs when given the chance and should be removed as soon as eggs are detected. The eggs hatch in 24 to 48 hours and the fry are free swimming 3 to 4 days afterwards. Feed the fry infusoria until they can accept newly hatched baby brine shrimp or microworms.

Purple Emperor Tetras are omnivores and will readily accept live, frozen or freeze dried bloodworms, brine shrimp, Daphnia, mosquito larvae, and tubifex along with a staple diet of quality flake food. They should be fed as much as they can consume in a five minute period, two or three times a day in lieu of only one large feeding.

Purple Emperor Tetra (Inpaichthys kerri)

Purple Emperor Tetra (Inpaichthys kerri) Male

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Minimum Tank Size: 20 gallons
Care Level: Easy
Temperament: Peaceful
Water Conditions: 76-82° F, dH 1=12, pH 5.5-7.0
Max. Size: 1½”
Color Form: Black, Purple
Diet: Omnivore
Compatibility: Community
Origin: Brazil, South America
Family: Characidae
Lifespan: 6 years
Aquarist Experience Level: Experienced

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Green Fire Tetra (Aphyocharax rathbuni)

Green Fire Tetra (Aphyocharax rathbuni)

The Green Fire Tetra (Aphyocharax rathbuni) is found in the clear waters of the Paraguay river basin in South America, and  is known to tropical fish keeping enthusiasts as the Redflank Bloodfin or Rathbun’s Bloodfin tetra.   In addition to being found in the Paraguay river basin, it is also endemic to the Paraná and Uruguay river drainages in Brazil, Paraguay, Argentina and Uruguay.   In their natural habitat they prefer slower moving rivers, streams and tributaries that are shaded by overhanging or floating vegetation.

Green Fire Tetra (Aphyocharax rathbuni)

Green Fire Tetra (Aphyocharax rathbuni)

The Green Fire Tetra is a slender, almost spindle shaped species with a translucent, metallic light green body color, and a metallic yellow streak followed by a splash of red on the pelvic and caudal fins.

They have a black patch on the dorsal fin and a red, to orange underbelly.   Males have white tips on their anal, pelvic, and dorsal fins which the females of the species lack.   And, females generally have a more rounded abdomen than males.

The Green Fire Tetra is a popular peaceful shoaling species that is perfect for planted aquariums and peaceful community tanks.   They should be kept in groups of at least 15 or more in a densely planted tank of at least 15 gallon capacity, with a sandy or fine gravel substrate, some driftwood or roots for them to hide among, some river rock and plenty of free swimming space.

They need a constant temperature, a slightly acidic pH and although lighting is not a critical factor, they do best in low light conditions.   Some floating plants and tall background plants are perfect for bringing out their beautiful brilliant green colors.

Green Fire Tetras are somewhat difficult to breed but will often spawn in a dimly lit, densely planted aquarium, especially when thin leaved and floating plants are present, and a large number of individuals are housed together.

They are egg layers that spawn during daylight hours (usually at daybreak) and produce a relatively small number of eggs that generally hatch within three days of the spawning.   The fry are tiny and free swimming 5 to 6 days after hatching at which time they can be fed infusoria or newly hatched baby brine shrimp until they are able to eat adult foods.

To increase the amount of fry that reach maturity, use a breeding tank that makes it easier to remove the adults after spawning and prevent them from eating their offspring.

Green Fire Tetras are easy to feed and will eat fresh, frozen, or freeze dried brine shrimp, bloodworms, tubifex, micro pellets, Daphnia in addition to a quality flake food.

When available, Green Fire Tetras are usually moderately priced and between 3/4″ to 1-1/4″ in length.

Green Fire Tetra (Aphyocharax rathbuni)

Green Fire Tetra (Aphyocharax rathbuni)

 

 

 

 

 

 

Minimum Tank Size: 15 gallons
Care Level: Moderate
Temperament: Peaceful
Aquarium Hardiness: Hardy
Water Conditions: 72-80° F, KH 4-8, pH 6.6-7.0
Size: 2”
Color Form: Green, Orange, Yellow
Diet: Carnivore
Compatibility: Great in community tanks
Origin: Paraguay river basin
Family: Characidae
Lifespan: 3-6 years
Aquarist Experience Level: Beginner

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Bucktoothed Tetra (Exodon paradoxus) Shoal

Bucktoothed Tetra (Exodon paradoxus)

The Bucktoothed Tetra (Exodon paradoxus) is found in the Rio Branco, Guyana and throughout the Brazilian Amazon. They are usually found over sandy bottoms in slower moving waters that flow through the savanna like grasslands.

Bucktoothed Tetra (Exodon paradoxus)

Bucktoothed Tetra (Exodon paradoxus)

Although the Bucktoothed Tetra gets its name from their uniquely designed mouth that allow it to rip the scales from other species, they show no signs of actually having teeth.

They are a highly predatory species that have a light tan body with two distinct black spots; one below the dorsal fin and the other just before the caudal fin.   The dorsal fin is colored a bright red, and males tend to have slightly elongated dorsal and anal fin rays.

Females of the species are plumper than males.

Because they will quickly strip the scales from any other fish in their proximity, they are definitely NOT a community tank fish.

They are best kept in a single species biotope tank setup with at least a dozen or more of their own kind.   25 to 50 or more fish in a large tank is considered a reasonable amount for this species.

When kept in smaller groups, even with piranhas and more aggressive species, the fish will pick the scales off each another until only one fish is left in the tank.   In larger shoals, the fish can’t target a single specimen as easily though you can still expect some losses.   They do seem to get along with loaches, eels, and other scaleless species.

Bucktoothed Tetras require a large, densely planted tank of at least 55 gallons, with a sandy substrate, and a few driftwood branches and roots to mimic their natural habitat and provide bullied fish with places to hide.   Because they are maintained in large groups, they need adequate filtration and a small powerhead to provide some water movement.   When placing fish into the aquarium, place all the fish in the tank at one time or the fish will regard new additions as food.

Breeding Bucktoothed Tetras has rarely been accomplished.   They are an egg scattering species that will quickly eat their eggs. Place a conditioned pair into a separate breeding tank with a fine mesh bottom.   The mesh should be small enough to prevent the pair from getting to the fertilized eggs that make it to the bottom of the tank.

The water should be at a pH of 6.0 to 6.5 and between 72 and 82°F. A single large water change of 40% to 50% with slightly warmer water will often induce spawning. Immediately after spawning is completed, remove the parents from the tank.

The eggs will hatch in approximately 2 to 3 days and the fry should be free swimming shortly thereafter.   Feed the fry freshly hatched baby brine shrimp and keep a close watch on them as they grow out as cannibalism is likely to occur.   When this happens, remove over sized fish to different tanks.

In the wild, Bucktoothed Tetras feed on insects, invertebrates, and the scales of other fish species. In an aquarium environment, they will accept fresh, frozen or freeze dried bloodworms, chopped prawn, mussels, earthworms and frozen lancefish.   Most of the time if they are farm raised, they will also accept dried food pellets or flakes.   They are greedy, violent feeders and go into a frenzy during feeding.   To prevent bullying, make sure all the fish in the tank are well fed.

Bucktooth Tetras are not commonly available to tropical fish keeping enthusiasts, but are available online and from specialty shops at a size of 1 1/2″ to 2″ in length.

Bucktoothed Tetra (Exodon paradoxus)

Bucktoothed Tetra (Exodon paradoxus)

 

 

 

 

 

 

Minimum Tank Size: 55 gallons
Care Level: Moderate
Temperament: Aggressive
Water Conditions: 73-80° F, 1 to 12°H, pH 5.6 – 7.2
Max. Size: 5-6”
Color Form: Black, Tan
Diet: Carnivore
Compatibility: Not for community tanks
Origin:
Family: Characidae
Lifespan: 10 years
Aquarist Experience Level: Experienced

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Firemouth Cichlid (Thorichthys meeki)

Firemouth Cichlid (Thorichthys meeki)

The Firemouth Cichlid (Thorichthys meeki) is found in the shallow, slower moving (and often turbid) rivers of the Yucatán Peninsula, Mexico, south through Belize and into northern Guatemala.

Firemouth Cichlid (Thorichthys meeki)

Firemouth Cichlid (Thorichthys meeki)

The Firemouth Cichlid’s body color is a pearlescent turquoise blue, with red edged scales.

The “throat” and breast areas are colored a brick to fire engine red, and beginning just behind the eye, there is a series of mainly vertical black marks that run down the length of the body and end at the base of the caudal fin.

The fins have turquoise spots and the dorsal fin is edged in blue with red outside.   The pelvic and anal fins are edged in black on the outside and a tinge of blue edging inside.

Males are larger and easily distinguished by their sharply pointed dorsal and anal fins and their brighter coloration around the throat area, especially during spawning.   Females have noticeably blunt genital papilla, and are less colorful.

Firemouth Cichlids are a widely distributed, semi aggressive species that have even been found in underground cave systems. They are suitable for community aquariums when kept with other like sized species but are territorial and aggressive towards their own species during spawning.

Male Firemouth Cichlids are noted for flaring their gills when threatened to expose their bright fiery red/orange throats on the underside of their jaw; hence their common name. During mating the displays are used to ward off rival males.

Firemouth Cichlids do best in a densely planted tank of least a 30 gallons, with a fine sand bottom for burrowing, some driftwood roots and rocks for hiding among, and plenty of swimming space.    They prefer clean, slightly acidic water and can tolerate a temperature range of 75-85 degrees F. Because of their penchant for burrowing, hardy potted plants like Sagittaria or Amazon Swords should be used to protect the roots and minimize uprooting.

Firemouth Cichlids are monogamous egg layers. They form pairs, make a nuclear family, are excellent parents, and are easy to spawn. They lay their eggs on flat rocks, a clean piece of slate, submerged bogwood, or even leaves. After cleaning off a suitable spawning area, the female will deposit anywhere from 100 to 500 eggs.

The male defends the territory and when the eggs hatch, both the male and female raise the fry.    The fry are protected in pits that are fanned out in the sandy bottom of the tank by the parents, and are moved several times during rearing.    The fry can be fed newly hatched brine shrimp or finely crushed flake food.   Firemouth Cichlid parents often raise several broods in a year. It is normally not necessary to remove the parents when raising the young.

Firemouth Cichlids are easy to feed.   They are omnivorous and have the ability to protrude their jaws and will eagerly eat fresh, frozen, or freeze dried bloodworms, tubifex, Cichlid pellets, as well as flake foods.   They are opportunistic feeders and will devour smaller fish when they can.

Firemouth Cichlids are usually readily available in tropical fish keeping shops at a purchase size of 1-1/2″ to 2″ in length.

Firemouth Cichlid (Thorichthys meeki)

Firemouth Cichlid (Thorichthys meeki)

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Minimum Tank Size: 30 gallons
Care Level: Moderate
Temperament: Semi Aggressive
Aquarium Hardiness: Very Hardy
Water Conditions: 70-75° F, KH 4-10, pH 6.0-7.5
Max. Size: 6”
Color Form: Blue, Red
Diet: Omnivore
Compatibility: Community tank with like sized species
Origin: Central America
Family: Cichlidae
Lifespan: 6-10 years
Aquarist Experience Level: Beginner

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Rainbow Tetra (Nematobrycon lacortei)

Rainbow Tetra (Nematobrycon lacortei)

The Rainbow Tetra (Nematobrycon lacortei) is peaceful shoaling species that is found in sluggish tributaries, small quiet rivers (Río Calima) and streams of the Rio San Juan basin in western Colombia, S.A.

The Rainbow Tetra (Nematobrycon lacortei) is rarer and the more colorful of the two species of Emperor Tetras that are found in Colombia.

Although Rainbow Tetras (Nematobrycon lacortei) share many of the same traits as the Emperor Tetra (Nematobrycon palmeri), other characteristics readily distinguish the species from each other.

Rainbow Tetra (Nematobrycon lacortei)

Rainbow Tetra (Nematobrycon lacortei)

Both species have club shaped bodies, a dark stripe that extends from the eye to the caudal fin, a trident tailed caudal fin with a central spike, and long anal fins that extend from the vent of the fish to the caudal fin.

They differ in that the male Emperor Tetra has a sickle shaped dorsal fin.   The dorsal fin in the Rainbow Tetra is more triangular shaped and shorter.   The Rainbow Tetra’s body color literally has every color of the rainbow displayed, while the Emperor Tetra is usually green or blue towards the front of the body, and a brownish gold over the balance.

The Rainbow Tetra’s eyes are large and banded with red, whereas the Emperor Tetra’s eyes are also large but blue in color.   The males of both species have long flowing dorsal fins that end in a point, but the dorsal fins of female Rainbow Tetras are more triangular shaped.

Rainbow Tetras are peaceful but somewhat territorial towards each other and should be kept together in groups of at least 10 or more of their own kind to minimize aggression between rival males.

They can be housed in a peaceful South American community tank with Nematobrycon lacortei and other tetras, Angelfish, gourami, rasboras, danios, dwarf South American cichlids, small catfish and loaches.

They also do well with Hemigrammus or Hyphessobrycon species, Apistogramma, Anabantoids and West African dwarf cichlids such as Pelvicachromis.

Rainbow Tetras do best in a densely planted, dimly lit 20 gallon (or larger) tank, with a dark fine gravel or sandy substrate, some driftwood or bogwood roots, and some river rock.   Adding some floating plants will help mimic their natural habitat, provide additional cover, and bring out the rainbow hues of these beautiful fish.

Rainbow Tetras are rarely seen in the aquarium hobby today and breeding them is somewhat difficult.   The females lay only one egg at a time and like many characins, will eat their eggs when given a chance.   The fry are extremely light sensitive and seldom survive unless they are kept in an aged, densely planted tank of fine leaved plants.

When breeding Rainbow Tetras, place a group in a large well planted tank with slightly acidic water and no other fish.   When conditioned on a diet of live or frozen foods, no extra stimulation is usually needed to get a pair to spawn and a majority of the fry will survive in the tank if the parents are removed immediately after spawning.

In an established, densely planted aquarium, the fry will have enough algae, protozoa, infusoria, etc. to survive.    As they grow, they can be fed Daphnia and crushed dry flake food.

Adult Rainbow Tetras are omnivores and will readily eat fresh, frozen, or freeze dried brine shrimp, daphnia, bloodworms, tubifex, micro pellets and high quality flake foods.

Rainbow Tetras are uncommon and when available for sale are usually wild caught specimens at a size of 3/4″ to 1 1/4″.

Rainbow Tetra (Nematobrycon lacortei)

Rainbow Tetra (Nematobrycon lacortei)

 

 

 

 

 

 

Minimum Tank Size: 20 gallons
Care Level: Moderate
Temperament: Peaceful
Water Conditions: 73-80° F, 1 to 12°H, pH 5.6 – 7.2
Max. Size: 3/4”
Color Form: Black, Purple, Silver
Diet: Omnivore
Compatibility: Peaceful community tanks
Origin: San Juan basin in western Colombia, South America
Family: Characidae
Lifespan: 4-6 years
Aquarist Experience Level: Experienced

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Candy Cane Tetra (Hyphessobrycon bentosi)

Candy Cane Tetra (Hyphessobrycon bentosi)

The Candy Cane Tetra (Hyphessobrycon bentosi) is also known as the HY511, Ornate Tetra, White Tip Tetra, False Rosy Tetra, Bentos Tetra, and White Fin Ornate Tetra.

Hyphessobrycon bentosi is native to the Amazon basin in Peru and are found in the densely vegetated, shaded, slow moving creeks that branch off from the Amazon River.

Candy Cane Tetras are a schooling species that are similar in appearance to their close relative the Rosy Tetra (Hyphessobrycon rosaceus) which is why tropical fish keeping enthusiasts have aptly named them False Rosy Tetras.

Candy Cane Tetra (Hyphessobrycon bentosi)

Candy Cane Tetra (Hyphessobrycon bentosi)

Candy Cane and Rosy Tetras both have pink to salmon colored bodies with darker red markings on their fins however, the bodies of Candy Cane Tetras are a bit more transparent.   The Candy Cane Tetra will also have a faint grayish “shoulder patch” marking that is absent on the Rosy Tetra.

The Candy Cane Tetra will always have white tipped dorsal and pelvic fins (hence the name “white tip”), while the Rosy Tetra may not.    The Rosy Tetra always has a black “flag” marking on it’s dorsal fin that is absent in Candy Cane Tetras.    Males of both species will have longer fins and the females are usually shorter and more plump.

Candy Cane Tetras are a shoaling species that should be kept in groups of at least 6 or more specimens.    They can be safely housed with smaller rasboras, barbs, tetras, Anabantoids, angel fish, Discus, Apistogramma dwarf cichlids, Corydoras, small Loricariids and other Hyphessobrycon or Hemigrammus species.

They do best in a dimly lit, 20 gallon or larger aquarium with a river sand or fine gravel substrate that is densely planted and aquascaped with a few pieces of driftwood and river rock.    Leave them plenty of swimming areas and because they come from densely vegetated, dimly lit, dense forest black water pools, they do not like fast moving currents; so angle any returns or power heads away from main swimming areas in the tank.

Like many South American tetras, Candy Cane Tetras require clean stable black water conditions to thrive.    Adding a few handfuls of catappa leaves to the tank or some aquarium safe peat to the filtration system will provide these conditions.    A few floating plants will also give them a sense of well being.    Regular bi-weekly 30% to 50% water changes are a must for these fish.

Breeding the Candy Cane Tetra is tricky.   The breeding pair should be isolated in a separate tank with floating or other fine leaved plants where the female will distribute her eggs, and a seeded sponge filter to provide aeration and water circulation.   Immediately after spawning, the parents should be removed from the tank.   The eggs hatch in 24 hours and about five days after hatching, the fry should be free swimming and can be fed infusoria or finely crushed flake food.    The fry are slow growing and should be isolated until they are too large to be eaten and the breeding tank water should be changed out on a regular basis until then.

Candy Cane Tetras are easy to feed and will readily eat micro pellets, quality flake foods, and “treats” of fresh, frozen, or freeze dried bloodworms, tubifex, and brine shrimp.   Feed them several small portions daily.

Hyphessobrycon bentosi are frequently available in tropical fish keeping shops at reasonable prices when they are 1 1/2″ to 2″ in size.

Candy Cane Tetra (Hyphessobrycon bentosi)

Candy Cane Tetra (Hyphessobrycon bentosi)

 

 

 

 

 

 
Minimum Tank Size: 20 gallons
Care Level: Easy
Temperament: Peaceful
Aquarium Hardiness: Moderately Hardy
Water Conditions: 73-82° F, 3 – 12 dGH, pH 6.6-7.2
Max. Size: 3”
Color Form: Black, White
Diet: Omnivore
Compatibility: Suitable for peaceful community tanks
Origin: Peru
Family: Characidae
Lifespan: 3-5 years
Aquarist Experience Level: Intermediate

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Lemon Tetra (Hyphessobrycon pulchripinnis)

Lemon Tetra (Hyphessobrycon pulchripinnis)

The Lemon Tetra (Hyphessobrycon pulchripinnis) is an Amazon River species that was first collected from the Rio Tapajos Basin, near Santarém, Brazil.   It is found in both the Rio Tapajos and stretches of the Amazon River where they join together at Santarem.

Lemon Tetra (Hyphessobrycon pulchripinnis)

Lemon Tetra (Hyphessobrycon pulchripinnis)

Lemon Tetras are one of the deeper bodied tetras that have a “diamond” like body shape.   The body of the fish is a translucent yellow that sometimes appears to be pearlescent.

An iridescent stripe extends laterally from the gill to the start of the Caudal fin.   The dorsal fin is black with a yellow central patch and the anal fin appears glass like with a black outer margin.   The anterior three or four anal rays are an intense, acrylic lemon yellow, hence their common name.

The caudal fin is mostly hyaline except for the males which acquire a gunmetal blue sheen.     The pectoral fins are glass like in appearance, while the pelvic fins are a translucent yellow, which in male specimens becomes more opaque yellow with black edges on the posterior.    Lemon tetras possesses an adipose fin that in males may acquire a black border.

The eyes of the Lemon Tetra are a distinguishing feature of the fish.   The upper half of the iris is an intense ruby red when the fish is in good condition.   When the red color fades or disappears entirely, it is an indication that the fish is seriously diseased.

The only reliable method to determine the gender of this species in adult specimens is by examining the black outer border of the anal fin.   In female specimens, the border looks like it was drawn onto the fin with a fine line pencil.    In males, particularly alpha males, the border is conspicuously wider.     During breeding, females are also more fully bodied when viewed from above.

In their natural habitat, Lemon Tetras congregate and travel in large shoals in clear, shallow, slightly acidic waters with a modest to moderate current flow, usually around submerged aquatic vegetation.

Lemon tetra shoals are often comprised of several thousand individuals that from a predatory standpoint makes predation of individual specimens extremely disruptive.      When threatened, the fish weave in and out between each other at great speed, creating a vivid black and yellow wave movement that confuses predators.

Lemon Tetras are a hardy, shy, peaceful species that do best in a densely planted tank with at least 10 to 15 or more of their own kind.    They mix well with other tetra species, small danios, barbs, rasboras, dwarf cichlids, Corydoras and Otocinclus catfish.

Their tank should have a fine gravel substrate, several dense thickets of plants, some driftwood roots, and plenty of swimming areas for the fish to move around in and display their best colors.    Good filtration and well oxygenated water is necessary for these fish, so a power head or canister filter is recommended.

Lemon Tetras are relatively easy to breed in an aquarium environment but they are notorious for eating their eggs.   The egg eating is instinctive.   In the wild, tens of thousands of pairs spawn simultaneously and in order to reduce competition for their own offspring, a pair will turn around and eat some of the eggs being produced by neighboring spawning pairs.    Unfortunately, this trait carries on to captive specimens.

If you place several females with one male in a well planted tank, there is an excellent possibility spawning will take place the next morning.    The morning sunlight seems to stimulate spawning behavior and a single adult female in prime condition will produce as many as 300 eggs during a single spawn.

Females will release their eggs among fine leaved plants like E. Tenellus, Cabomba, or Java Moss but will promptly eat them if they are not removed from the tank.    The eggs are non-adhesive and will fall through the foliage to rest at the base of the plants or on the substrate.    You can preserve more eggs if you line the bottom of the breeding tank with marbles or a mesh small enough to prevent the parents from getting to the eggs.

The eggs will hatch out in approximately 72 hours at 82 °F.   The fry will absorb their yolk sacs and be free swimming in another 24 to 48 hours.   The fry should be fed infusoria or a special egglayer fry food for the next week or until they are able to accept newly hatched baby brine shrimp.    At 12 weeks the fry become miniature versions of adults and at 9 months are sexually mature.

Lemon Tetras are easy to feed and will readily accept almost any quality flake food.  They should also be occasionally offered live foods such as Daphnia, brine shrimp, or mosquito larvae.   They are especially fond of live, frozen, or freeze dried bloodworms and tubifex.

Lemon Tetras are usually available to tropical fish keeping enthusiasts when they are 3/4″ to 1 1/2″ in size.

Lemon Tetra (Hyphessobrycon pulchripinnis)

Lemon Tetra (Hyphessobrycon pulchripinnis)

 

 

 

 

 

 

Minimum Tank Size: 30 gallons
Care Level: Easy
Temperament: Peaceful
Water Conditions: 72-82°F, dH 3-25, pH 6.0-7.5
Max. Size: 1 1/2″
Color Form: Yellow
Diet: Omnivore
Compatibility: Peaceful
Origin: Rio Tapajos, Brazil
Family: Characidae
Life Span: 6-8 years
Aquarist Level: Beginner

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Colombian Tetra (Hyphessobrycon columbianus) School

Colombian Tetra (Hyphessobrycon columbianus)

The Colombian Tetra (Hyphessobrycon columbianus) also known to tropical fish keeping enthusiasts as the Blue Flame Tetra, Blue Red Tetra, and Colombian Red Fin Tetra is found only in the Río Acandí in Chocó Department, northern Colombia, close to the Panama border.

Colombian Tetra (Hyphessobrycon columbianus)

Colombian Tetra (Hyphessobrycon columbianus) Pair

Originally misidentified as Hyphessobrycon ecuadorensis, the Colombian Tetra has a deep body that is silver colored with iridescent blue on the back and upper portion in both males and females.

The caudal and anal fins are a bright blood red color and the ventral fins are transparent to a light orange color.   Sexually mature males are slightly smaller, more intensely colored, and develop a more extended dorsal fin than the females.

Colombian Tetras are a peaceful shoaling species that make ideal residents in a South American community aquarium.   They should be housed with at least 8 to 12 of their own kind and get along well with other like sized schooling tetras.

Colombian tetras do best in a 30 gallon aquarium with a fine gravel substrate that is densely planted with fine leaved plants, some driftwood, moderate filtration, a slight degree of water movement, and plenty of swimming space.

Like many tetras, they are egg scatterers that exhibit no parental care after spawning.   In a mature aquarium, they will often spawn spontaneously without intervention and occasionally a few fry can be observed.

To maximize the amount of fry that are produced, place a well conditioned adult group in a small dimly lit tank filled with aged water and a fine mesh carpet over the bottom that is large enough for the eggs to fall through, yet small enough so the adults cannot access the eggs.    Many breeders use a commercially produced plastic grass like matting or a layer of marbles to cover the entire bottom of the tank.   A less efficient but more natural media is a carpet of Dwarf Hairgrass or a bed of Java Moss on the bottom of an aged tank.

Regardless of what you use, the breeding tank should be filled with slightly acidic water with a pH at the lower range of 5.0 – 7.5,  a  temperature between 70 and 82 degrees F. and fitted with a seeded sponge filter or air stone to oxygenate the water and provide some water movement.

When a well conditioned group of one or two males and several females are introduced to the breeding tank, eggs will normally be observed the following morning.   Spawning activity usually lasts anywhere from 2 to 4 hours and as many as 2000 eggs may be laid.   Like most egg scatterers, the parents or spawning group should be removed from the breeding tank after spawning is completed or the eggs will be eaten.

Depending on the water temperature, the eggs will hatch in 24 to 36 hours.   When the yolk sacs are absorbed, the fry should be fed infusoria or finely crushed flake food until they are large enough to accept microworms, Daphnia, or newly hatched baby brine shrimp.

In their natural habitat, Colombian Tetras are omnivores that feed on insects, worms, zoo-plankton, organic detritus, and small bits of plant material.   In an aquarium environment, they should be given several small feedings of live, frozen, or freeze dried bloodworms, Daphnia, brine shrimp along with a quality omnivore flake food.

Colombian Tetras are sporadically available to tropical fish keeping enthusiasts when they are approximately 1 1/2″ – 2″ in length.

Colombian Tetra (Hyphessobrycon columbianus)

Colombian Tetra (Hyphessobrycon columbianus)

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Minimum Tank Size: 30 gallons
Care Level: Easy
Temperament: Peaceful
Water Conditions: 73-80°F, 1-12°H, pH 5.0-7.0
Max. Size: 2 3/4″
Color Form: Blue, Red
Diet: Omnivore
Compatibility: Peaceful in small groups
Origin: Río Acandí, Colombia
Family: Characidae
Life Span: 3-5 years
Aquarist Level: Beginner

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