Pearl Gourami (Trichogaster leeri) are also known to tropical fish keeping enthusiasts as the Leeri Gourami or Lace Gourami, and are native to Thailand, Malaysia, and Indonesia on the islands of Sumatra, and Borneo.

The fish are generally collected in the acidic waters of lowland swamps where they prefer the middle and top levels of the water column.

Pearl Gourami (Trichogaster leeri)

Pearl Gourami have a laterally compressed body with long, thin ventral fins that look and act as feelers.

They are covered with iridescent pearl and brown flecks that give it a “mother of pearl” appearance.  A horizontal black line runs through the length of the body from the lips to the tail where it ends in a spot.

Like most gourami, Pearl Gourami have a labyrinth organ that allows them to breathe air and survive in oxygen depleted waters that would normally kill most other species which is why they need access to the surface of the tank.

Males have more pointed dorsal and anal fins and are colored with more red than the females. Females have a more rounded body shape with rounder dorsal and anal fins.

Pearl Gourami are an ideal community tank fish that can be housed with other peaceful, like sized species or in groups of at least 6 of their own kind. They should never be kept with aggressive species like Cichlids or they will become recluses, lose their beautiful colors, and often refuse food.

Pearl Gourami need at least a 30 gallon densely planted tank with a dark sand or fine gravel substrate, some driftwood or bogwood, plenty of swimming space, and some floating plants that can be used to diffuse light and provide hiding places for the fish.  They do not need a deep tank and do quite well in water that is less than a foot deep.

Pearl Gourami are bubble nest builders that incorporate aquatic vegetation into their nests to bind the bubbles together.  To breed Trichogaster leeri, first condition a pair with live or frozen brine shrimp or bloodworms.  Drop the water level in the breeding tank down to about 8″ and maintain the water temperature at 82 °F and the pH at 7.0.  When ready to spawn, the male will build a bubble nest where spawning takes place.

When the female takes a position under the nest, the male curves his body tightly around her, from underneath. Her body will quiver as she expels a few eggs. The male releases the female, picks up the eggs into his mouth as they are slowly sinking, and then he spits them into the bubble nest.  This scenario is repeated several times until spawning is completed.

After spawning, most breeders remove the female from the tank and the male will guard the eggs and fry until they become free swimming, at which time he should also be removed from the tank.  The eggs will generally hatch within two days and the fry become free swimming three days later.  At this time they can be fed infusoria, liquid fry food or baby brine shrimp until they can accept finely crushed flake food.  This usually takes from 7 to 10 days.  The older fry can be fed freeze dried pellets.

As soon as the fry are mobile, it is important to place a tight fitting cover over the breeding tank and to keep the temperature at 84 degrees to create and maintain the hot, humid environment needed for the labyrinth organs to develop in the fry.  No water movement is necessary but frequent water changes should be made during this stage when infusoria or baby brine shrimp are fed to the young.

Pearl Gourami are omnivores that eat both algae based and meaty foods. In an aquarium environment, they are not picky eaters and will eagerly accept algae based flake foods, live, frozen, and freeze dried mosquito larvae, bloodworms, tubifex, blackworms, and brine shrimp.

Pearl Gourami are a favorite of tropical fish keeping enthusiasts and are available for purchase when they are 1 1/2″ to 2″ in length.

Pearl Gourami (Trichogaster leeri)

Minimum Tank Size: 30 gallons
Care Level: Easy
Temperament: Peaceful
Aquarium Hardiness: Hardy
Water Conditions: 75-86° F, KH 5-18, pH 6.5-8.0
Max Size: 4.7″
Color Form: Clear, White
Diet: Omnivore
Compatibility: Excellent community tank fish
Origin: Borneo, Malaysia, Sumatra
Family: Belontiidae
Lifespan: 5-8 years
Aquarist Experience Level: Easy

The Yo-Yo Loach (Botia almorhae)  is also known to tropical fish keeping enthusiasts as the Pakistani Loach, Reticulated Loach, Y-Loach and Almora Loach.   Although it is named for the district (Almora), Uttarakhand State, India where it is found, it is also called the Pakistani Loach, which is actually a misnomer, since it is restricted to parts of the Ganges River drainage in northern India, and possibly Nepal.    They are found in India, Nepal, and Bangladesh.

Specimens collected from Pakistan are generally a darker color than the India varieties and local color variations are common.

The Yo-Yo Loach is an active, playful fish that is also a great scavenger in a community aquarium.   They are found in the rivers and slow moving highland streams of their range where they tend to congregate in pools and still water areas around rocky substrates.    Prior to spawning, they migrate upstream.

Yo-Yo Loach (Botia almorhae) Juvenile

The Yo-Yo Loach has a silvery to yellowish body color with dark vertical bands.   Juveniles are more brightly colored, and because of the obvious pattern of ‘Y’s and ‘O’s along the fish’s side, the tern Yo-Yo was coined.

The juvenile body markings in this species can be extremely variable, but  as the fish turn into adults, their body pattern fills in and becomes more reticulated, hence another one of their common names.   Females are noticeably plumper than males and when gravid, can actually become extremely fat.   Males can be identified by their slimmer body and redness around the barbels and mouth area.

Botia almorhae are often kept in a group of 6 or more of their own species, or in a community aquarium with other peaceful to semi aggressive species.    They are good community fish and mostly hide during the day, coming out in the evening to feed.   They are generally peaceful but can hold their own with other aggressive species.  Yo-Yo Loaches need a tank of at least 30 gallons with a sandy or extremely fine substrate, some plants, smooth river rocks, and driftwood for them to hide among, and plenty of swimming space.

Because they prefer subdued lighting, some floating plants can be added to the tank to diffuse the lighting and for cover.  These botias are excellent diggers and because of their delicate barbels, should definitely have a sandy substrate in their tank.   Because these loaches do jump at times, a tightly fitting cover is also essential.

The Yo-Yo Loach does best in well oxygenated water with some degree of current.   They are intolerant to the accumulation of organic wastes and require spotless water conditions to thrive, so a quality canister filter is recommended for this species.   For this reason, they should only be introduced into stable, biologically mature aquariums.    Weekly 30% to 50% water changes are recommended.

Although mature females regularly fill up with spawn, no successful spawning of the Yo-Yo Loach has been recorded in an aquarium environment.

In their natural environment, Yo-Yo Loaches  are chiefly carnivorous but will eat vegetative matter when available.   Their natural diet consists of insects, worms, aquatic mollusks, and other invertebrates.

In an aquarium environment, they are not fussy eaters and will eagerly accept a quality flake or pellet food, live or frozen bloodworms, tubifex, brine shrimp, and occasional offerings of fresh fruit and vegetables like melons, cucumber, blanched spinach, etc.   Chopped earthworms can be offered as a “treat” but only sparingly.   This species will also rid your tank of unwanted pond snails which they relish with gusto.

The Yoyo Loach or Pakistani Loach is usually available to tropical fish keeping enthusiasts online and in pet stores when they are 1 1/2″ to 3″ in length at a moderate cost.

Yo-Yo Loach (Botia almorhae)

Minimum Tank Size: 30 gallons
Care Level: Moderate
Temperament: Peaceful
Aquarium Hardiness: Moderately Hardy
Water Conditions: 75.0 – 86.0° F, 3 – 10 dGH, pH 6.5-7.5
Max Size: 6.1″
Color Form: Silver, Black
Diet: Omnivore
Compatibility: Good community tank fish
Origin: India, Pakistan
Family: Cobitidae
Lifespan: 8 – 12 years
Aquarist Experience Level:  Intermediate

Three spot gourami (Trichopodus trichopterus) are commonly found throughout Southeast Asia and are also known to tropical fish keeping enthusiasts as Blue Gourami.

Their range extends from Yunnan China through Laos, Cambodia, Malaysia, Myanmar, Singapore, Vietnam, Thailand, Java, Borneo and Sumatra, and they have been introduced into Trinidad, Sulawesi, and the Philippines.

Three Spot Gourami thrive in standing or very slow moving swamps, marshes, canals and flooded wetlands throughout their range where they feed on crustaceans, insect larvae, and zooplankton.

Blue Gourami (Trichogaster trichopterus) female

Three Spot Gourami or Blue Gourami, actually have only two dark blue to black spots over their silver blue bodies; one in the center of the body, and a second spot at the beginning of the caudal fin.   The third “spot” (that gives them their name) is actually their eye.

The body colors of these fish can change considerably depending on their mood and during spawning. Males have long pointed dorsal fins and a pointed anal fin.   In females, the anal fin is shorter and rounded, however some females have dorsal fins as long as a male.

Like others of their kind, Three Spot Gourami have a labyrinth organ that allows them to breathe atmospheric air to survive in stagnant waters with low oxygen content.  In an aquarium environment, they should always have access to the surface of the aquarium.

Three Spot Gourami are a peaceful, hardy species that can be housed with a variety other peaceful, similarly sized species.  They are somewhat territorial and can be aggressive with others of their species, especially during breeding.  The are known to be fin nippers when housed with species that have long, brightly colored flowing fins like male bettas, fancy male guppies, and goldfish.  Around more aggressive species, they tend to become much more timid.

Three Spot Gourami are best kept in a densely planted tank of at least 20 gallons with a sandy or fine gravel substrate, some rock work and driftwood for them to hide among, and plenty of swimming space.
Though they are tolerant of wide range of water parameters, they still require adequate filtration.

Three Spot Gourami are easy to breed.  The males build a bubble nest and when they are ready to breed will entice the female to spawn by repeatedly swimming back and forth under the nest with their tail raised and fins flared.  The male will wrap himself around the female and fertilize up to 800 eggs during a spawning.   After spawning is completed, it is generally recommended that the female be removed from the spawning tank.   The male will guard the bubble nest and usually shows aggression towards the female after spawning.  When the eggs hatch, the male will continue to guard the fry however, the male should be removed when the fry become free swimming and have absorbed their egg sacs.

After the fry are mobile, a tight fitting cover should be placed over the breeding tank to create and maintain the hot, humid environment needed for the labryinth organs to develop in the young gourami. Frequent water changes should be maintained during this stage as infusoria or baby brine shrimp is fed to the young.

Three Spot Gourami are omnivores and require meaty and algae based foods.   Live, frozen or freeze dried tubifex, bloodworms, brine shrimp and a quality omnivore flake food will provide these fish with all the nutrition they need.

Three Spot, or Blue Gourami are readily available to tropical fish keeping enthusiasts when they are 1 1/2″ to 2″ in size at reasonable prices.

Blue Gourami (Trichogaster trichopterus) Male

Minimum Tank Size: 20 gallons
Care Level: Easy
Temperament: Peaceful to Semi Aggressive
Aquarium Hardiness: Hardy
Water Conditions: 72-82° F, KH 4-18, pH 6.0-8.8
Max Size: 6″
Color Form: Blue, Silver
Diet: Omnivore
Compatibility: Good community tank fish
Origin: Southeast Asia, Malaysia, China
Family: Belontiidae
Lifespan: 5-8 years
Aquarist Experience Level: Easy

Giant Red Tail Gourami (Osphronemus laticlavius) are also known to tropical fish keeping enthusiasts as Giant Red Finned Gourami, Red Flag Giant Gourami, Giant Red Fin Goramy, and Red Tail Gourami and are found in Indonesia and Malaysia.

The four recognized species in the Osphronemus genus that are commonly referred to as giant gouramis are listed below along with their maximum lengths:

• Giant Gourami (Osphronemus gouramy) 28″ max
• Giant Red Tail Gourami (Osphronemus laticlavius) 20″ max
• Elephant Ear Gourami (Osphronemus exodon) 24″ max
• Kaloi Sarawak, Giant Gourami (Osphronemus septemfasciatus) 20″ max

Giant Red Tail Gourami are rare in the aquarium hobby and have only been known to science since the early 1990s.

Like Giant Gourami, Osphronemus laticlavius are found in the heavily vegetated stagnant waters of swamps, marshlands, and sluggish moving canals.  They are also found in slow moving rivers, lakes, and flooded forests during the rainy seasons and like other gourami, they posses a special labyrinth organ that enables them to survive in oxygen depleted waters.

Young Giant Red Tail Gourami (Osphronemus laticlavius)

Giant Red Tail Gourami have a laterally compressed, deep, oval shaped body, and a blunt head.  Juveniles have a steely blue gray to black body color that develops beautiful blue green highlights as the fish mature.  Adults have a blue green to almost black body color and fins that are trimmed in bright red, with filamentous extensions and a “nuchal” hump on their forehead.  The females usually have thicker lips.

Giant Red Tail Gourami make great pets.  Like Giant Gourami, they are able to recognize their owners and over time can develop real personalities.

Giant Red Tail Gourami are generally peaceful, but there can be exceptions to this rule, especially when they are housed in a small aquarium.  In rare instances a large male will become territorial and attack other fish, but in a properly sized tank, they are generally a good community fish with other larger species like knife fish, large catfish and loricariid.  When juveniles have been raised together with smaller barbs, tetras, danios, etc. they don’t consider their tankmates dinner and usually ignore them.  However, as they grow into adults, they “own” the tank and any new additions, regardless of size, will likely be killed.

Giant Red Tail Gourami should be housed in at least a 180 gallon or larger aquarium with a dark gravel or coarse sand substrate, some large rocks

Giant Red Tail Gourami (Osphronemus laticlavius) Juvenile

and pieces of driftwood for them to hide among, some floating plants, and plenty of free swimming space.   This species is a voracious herbivore so it is not advisable to plant slow growing aquatic vegetation in their tank.  Despite the fact that they can breathe atmospheric air and can tolerate a variety of water parameters, they need a good filtration system, some water movement, and clean water to thrive.  The use of a  canister filter and weekly 20-30% water changes are highly recommended.

In their natural habitat, male Giant Red Tail Gourami build ball shaped bubble nests approximately 16″ W. by 12″ D. out of bits of vegetable matter from 6″ to10″ below the surface of the water, and anchor it to the reeds or to subsurface grass.   The male takes about a week to 10 days to construct the nest (usually during April and May) at which time the spawning takes place.

Between 1,500 and 3,000 eggs are fertilized and released into the nest.  Both the eggs and the fry (when hatched) are lighter than water and will float to the top of the bubble nest.   The male will gather them into his mouth and place them into the nest where they are guarded until they hatch.   In approximately 40 hours the eggs hatch, and 15 days later the fry will be free swimming.

Breeding Giant Red Tail Gourami in an aquarium environment has not yet been reported, however, they probably breed in a similar fashion to
their cousin the Giant Gourami (Osphronemus goramy).   The fish are sexually mature at about 6 months of age or at a size of 4″ to 5″, however they still require a large breeding tank.  The male builds a large bubble nest with grasses, roots, small twigs, and floating plants and anchors it below the surface. The actual spawning occurs in the vicinity of the nest where the eggs are placed and tended to by the male until they hatch. The male then chases away the female and in 24 to 36 hours the eggs hatch. In 3 to 5 days the fry are free swimming and able to eat on their own however, the male will continue to guard the fry for several weeks unless removed from the tank. The fry can be fed crushed omnivore flake food
or newly hatched baby brine shrimp.

Giant Red Tail Gourami are opportunistic feeders and in their natural habitat will consume copious amounts of vegetable and animal matter.   Their natural diet consists of aquatic weedy vegetation, small fish, frogs, earthworms, crustaceans, and sometimes even carrion.

In an aquarium environment, they should be fed a balanced diet heavy on vegetable matter.

Besides omnivore flakes and pellets, they will eagerly accept live, frozen or freeze dried brine shrimp, worms, fish, bloodworms, algae wafers, lettuce, boiled potatoes, peas, cooked foods, etc.   Beef heart and meat from mammals should be only fed sparingly.   They are not picky eaters and will eat almost any aquarium food if trained to do so as juveniles.   Feed them once or twice daily.

Although the demand from tropical fish keeping enthusiasts for this species is high and the fish are quite pricey, Giant Red Tail Gourami are only occasionally available for purchase online.

Adult Giant Red Tail Gourami (Osphronemus laticlavius)

Minimum Tank Size: 180 gallons
Care Level: Moderate
Temperament: Relatively Peaceful
Aquarium Hardiness: Very Hardy
Water Conditions: 68-86°F, 5-25°H, pH 6.5-8.0
Max Size: 20″
Color Form: Blue, Gray, Red
Diet: Omnivore/Primarily Herbivore
Compatibility: Large Community Tanks
Origin: Indonesia, Malaysia
Family: Osphronemidae
Lifespan: 20+ years
Aquarist Experience Level: Intermediate

Giant Gourami (Osphronemus goramy) are native to Southeast Asia and are found throughout Borneo, Java, Sumatra, Thailand, Indo-china and the Malay Peninsula.   A recently described species called the Giant Red Tail Gourami (Osphronemus laticlavius) is slightly smaller and can be distinguished from Osphronemus goramy by its red fins.  Although this species is considered rare to tropical fish keeping enthusiasts, it’s care is identical to Osphronemus goramy.

Giant Gourami (Osphronemus goramy) are found in stagnant, slow moving waters of swamps, lakes, and large rivers in fresh and occasionally brackish water conditions.  Like other Anabantid, they have a well developed labyrinth organ that allows them to breathe moist atmospheric air and survive out of water, or in oxygen deficient conditions for extended periods.  In their natural habitat they can grow to over 28″ long, but in an aquarium environment they seldom exceed 18″ in length.

Partly because of their size, Giant Gourami are an important food source in many parts of their range.  They are commonly salted and dried in India and are popular in Malaysian, Indonesian, and even Sundanese cuisine.

Juvenile Giant Gourami (Osphronemus goramy)

Although they grow much larger than most gouramis, Giant Gourami are kept by many tropical fish keeping enthusiasts as juveniles when they are 2″ to 3″ long.

At this stage, they have a pronounced “beak” and have a pale to golden yellow body color, with silvery, pale blue vertical stripes running along the body.

The anal fins are large and rounded, and they have the distinctive elongated pelvic fins typical of gourami.  The body is very narrow in width, and the dorsal and anal fins in males end in a pronounced point. Females have thicker lips than males.

These fish grow rapidly when provided with sufficient space and plenty of food, and within four or five years they can grow as long as 18″ to 20″ in length.   As they mature, between 3 to 4 years of age, Giant Gourami will lose their juvenile coloring and turn a dark gray to almost black color.   They will begin to develop a rounded face and a large “nuchal hump” on the head, just above their eyes.  During spawning, the body colors of the fish turn almost black.

Giant Gourami (Osphronemus goramy)

Giant Gourami are a relatively peaceful, long lived, extremely hardy, intelligent fish that make great “pets” for their owners.  They develop real personalities and change their body color according to their moods.  They recognize their owners and will visually respond to them with something akin to affection.

Giant Gourami are best housed in a 180 gallon or larger aquarium with a gravel or coarse sand substrate, plenty of hiding places in the form of large rocks or large pieces of  driftwood, and because they are a “messy” fish, a powerful filtration system.   These fish are extremely efficient herbivores, therefore floating plants are much more preferable than having planted aquatic vegetation in the tank.

Giant Gourami are known to eat smaller fish, but they are usually peaceful with other large fish provided enough space if provided in the aquarium. As juveniles they can be housed with Angelfish, Bala Sharks, Bettas, Clown Loaches, Danios, Rainbowfish, Neons and most catfish.

As adults they may become aggressive, but this is usually due to being kept in an aquarium that is too small.  In a large aquarium with plenty of space, these fish will usually get along well with the above species as well as knifefish, large catfish, and loricariids as long as they are introduced at the same time.  Avoid adding new specimens to an established tank regardless of their size.

Giant Gourami are relatively easy to breed, but a huge tank is required to breed fully grown adults.  Fortunately Giant Gourami are sexually mature at around 6 months, so it’s much more realistic to breed younger fish in lieu of adults.

Set up a large breeding tank with lots of floating plants and weeds or twigs so the male can build a large bubble nest using the vegetation.  Spawning will occur close to the nest and the male will catch the eggs as they are fertilized an include them into the nest.  After spawning is completed, the female should be removed from the breeding tank.  The male tends to the nest until the eggs hatch, usually within 24 to 36 hours.  The fry become free swimming 3 to 5 days later and the male will continue to guard the fry for several weeks.  Most breeders elect to remove the male from the breeding tank once the fry are free swimming.  They can be fed newly hatched baby brine shrimp or powered flake food almost from the first day.

Although Osphronemus goramy are omnivorous, they are voracious herbivores.  In the wild they eat all types of vegetable matter and are even used for weed control in many areas, but they will also eat worms, amphibians, and sometimes even dead animals.  In an aquarium environment, they are not fussy eaters but should be given an algae based flake food along with a varied diet of live, frozen or freeze dried bloodworms, tubifex, brine shrimp, worms, and as adults; large pellets, legumes, fruits, and partially or fully cooked vegetables.

Giant Gourami are available to tropical fish keeping enthusiasts online and from specialty fish keeping shops as juveniles when they are 2″ to 3″ in length.

Giant Gourami (Osphronemus goramy)

Minimum Tank Size: 180 gallons
Care Level: Easy
Temperament: Relatively Peaceful
Aquarium Hardiness: Very Hardy
Water Conditions: 68-86°F, 5-25°H, pH 6.5-8.0
Max Size: 28″
Color Form: Yellow, Gray, White
Diet: Omnivore/Primarily Herbivore
Compatibility: Large Community Tanks
Origin: Southeast Asia
Family: Osphronemidae
Lifespan: 20+ years
Aquarist Experience Level: Intermediate

Giant Chocolate Gourami (Sphaerichthys acrostoma) are known to tropical fish keeping enthusiasts as the Sharp Nosed Gourami, Moonlight Chocolate Gourami, Black Lined Chocolate Gourami, and Black Tailed Chocolate Gourami.   They are found only within the Indonesian parts of the island of Borneo and appear to be well distributed within the Mentaya River drainage system near the town of Sampit and further south.

Giant Chocolate Gourami grow to almost 4″ in length are are primarily found in peat swamps and forested blackwater streams littered with rotting leaves and fallen tree branches that are typically stained a dark brown to almost black color by the humic acids and other chemicals released from decaying organic matter.

The decomposition results in a negligible dissolved mineral content in the water and a pH value as low as 3.0 or 4.0.   The dense jungle growth and the rainforest canopy allows very little light to penetrate the surface of the water, letting only low light loving plants like Utricularia, Cryptocoryne, Blyxa, Barclaya, Eleocharis, Utricularia, and Lymnophila to grow.

Giant Chocolate Gourami (Sphaerichthys acrostoma) Adult Male

Giant Chocolate Gourami have a high, flattened, moderately elongated body with a long dorsal and anal fin, and low filamentous pelvic fins.   The overall body color is bronze with slightly networked scales, dark fins, and a light throat.   There are two black cherry colored lines that extend from the tip of the snout through the eye, to the end of the gill cover.

When excited, males show a bright lateral band that extends from the caudal fin to the middle of the body.  Females lack this band but have a series of dark vertical lines on the lower front of the body in the abdominal region and along the base of the anal fin.

Females have a uniformly brown body with some red pigmentation in the throat and the unpaired fins.   The

females also have an overall more acuminate head shape than males and a uniformly straight lower jaw profile.

Like others in the suborder Anabantoidei, Sphaerichthys acrostoma possess a labyrinth organ that allows them to breathe atmospheric air and survive in oxygen depleted water conditions.

Some species collected along with Giant Chocolate Gourami in the tannin stained jungle streams included Betta foerschi, Parosphromenus parvulus, Hemirhamphodon chrysopunctatus, Pectenocypris korthausae, Puntius foerschi, and Osteochilus pentalineatus.

Giant Chocolate Gourami do best in a single species tank with at least 6 or 8 of their own kind or they can be housed with other peaceful pelagic cyprinids like the Glowlight Rasbora (Trigonostigma hengeli), other smaller Rasbora species, loaches like the Kuhli Loach (Pangio semicincta ) or Kottelatlimia spp. or any of the above species.

Giant Chocolate Gourami should be housed in a densely planted 30 gallon or larger aquarium, with a sandy or fine gravel substrate covered with dried leaf litter, lots of driftwood roots, wood bark, and branches formed into small caves.    Use low light loving plants like Microsorum, Taxiphyllum, Cryptocoryne, and Anubias to decorate and create hiding places for the fish.  Provided adequate cover and structure is available, this species is not fussy about their decor.  Some tropical fish keeping enthusiasts place ceramic flowerpots, pieces of PVC pipe, and other artificial materials into their tanks for cover, but a more aesthetically pleasing environment that mimics their natural habitat is preferable.

Beach, Oak, or Ketapang Indian Almond Leaves should be placed on the bottom of the tank to replicate the blackwater conditions these fish are found in, and to keep the pH in the water low.   The microbe colonies that are produced as the leaves decompose in the tank become a secondary food source for the fish and the fry, and although the chemicals and tannins released cause the water to turn a dark brown color, they are medicinal and prevent fungal infections in the fish.   The leaves can either be removed and replaced every few weeks, or left in the tank to fully decompose.

To keep Giant Chocolate Gourami healthy, diffused lighting, soft water, and a low pH level is critical.   Because this species is found in still, or sluggish moving streams under jungle canopies where very little light penetrates the water column; introduce a few patches of floating plants into the aquarium to diffuse the lighting.   They are a shy, timid, slow moving species intolerant of changing water conditions, so when performing a water change to their tank, only change out about 10 to 15% weekly or when necessary.   This species is best kept in a mature, aged aquarium with little or no current in the tank.

Giant Chocolate Gourami are paternal mouthbrooders that can be bred either in a group or in pairs.  Breeding can be expedited by setting up a breeding tank with a pH below 5.0 and a dH below 2.    Breeding will usually take place if the fish are well conditioned and the amount of organic waste in the tank is low.   The female or alpha female (if in a group) will normally initiate courtship.

Giant Chocolate Gourami (Sphaerichthys acrostoma) Male

The male will display a lateral stripe that extends from the base of the caudal fin to about mid-body.

Females lack this stripe but possess a series of darkened scale rows in the lower anterior portion of the body and along the base of the anal fin, and a red pigmented area on the throat and in the unpaired fins that increase in intensity.

Giant Chocolate Gourami (Sphaerichthys acrostoma) Female

The pair remains mostly upright during the spawning process which can take several hours to complete.   During spawning, both parents will defend the surrounding territory, and when the distinctly pear shaped eggs are laid and fertilized on the substrate, the male collects them in his mouth and retires to a quiet area in the tank where he will not eat until the eggs hatch and the fry are fully formed.   Usually within 7 to 20 days, the male will release anywhere from 20 to 60 fully formed free swimming juveniles into the tank.

At this point the fry can be removed to a rearing tank with the exact same water parameters, or the parents can be removed to minimize predation.   A tightly fitting cover must be placed on the rearing tank to create the humid air conditions needed for the proper development of the labyrinth organs of the fry.

When released from the mouth of the male, the fry are large enough to immediately accept or freshly hatched baby brine shrimp.  During the rearing process, about 10% of the water in the tank should be changed daily to promote growth and maintain water quality.

In their natural habitat, Giant Chocolate Gourami feed on small aquatic crustaceans, insect larvae, worms, and zooplankton among the leaves.   Wild caught specimens will usually need a steady diet of live or frozen mosquito larvae, brine shrimp, Daphnia, grindal worms, , or bloodworms.    They may accept freeze dried bloodworms and even a quality carnivore flake food if the fish have been captive bred, but this species is a picky eater so be prepared to stock up on live and frozen foods if you intend to keep them.

Giant Chocolate Gourami are seldom available to tropical fish keeping enthusiasts and are often sold as Sharp Nose Gourami, Moonlight Chocolate Gourami, Black Lined Chocolate Gourami, and Black Tailed Chocolate Gourami.

Giant Chocolate Gourami (Sphaerichthys acrostoma)

Minimum Tank Size: 20 gallons
Care Level: Difficult
Temperament: Shy, Peaceful
Aquarium Hardiness: Delicate
Water Conditions: 74-86°F, 0-54 ppm, pH 3.5-6.5
Max Size: 4″
Color Form: Brown, White
Diet: Carnivore
Compatibility: Biotope setup
Origin: Mentaya River drainage Borneo, Indonesia
Family: Osphronemidae
Lifespan: 5-8 years Aquarist
Experience Level: Advanced

Crossband Chocolate Gourami (Sphaerichthys selatanensis) also known as the Cherry Chocolate Gourami, are found close to the the city of Banjarmasin in South Kalimantan, Borneo, Indonesia. They appear to be well distributed in southern Borneo and have also been collected close to the settlement of Sampit, which is several hundred kilometers east in Central Kalimantan province.

Similarly patterned Crossband Chocolate Gourami have been recorded on Belitung Island, Bangka Belitung Islands province, Indonesia which lies just off the eastern coast of Sumatra.  These specimens have a more reddish color than the Borneo forms and are the first ever, other than Sphaerichthys osphromenoides, recorded outside of Borneo.

Like other Anabantoidei, Crossband Chocolate Gourami possess a labyrinth organ that allows them to breathe atmospheric air to survive in oxygen deficient conditions that would kill many other species.

Crossband Chocolate Gourami are found in blackwater peat swamps, the adjacent streams of their range, and sometimes in clear water areas that are tannin stained a dark brown color by the decomposition of leaves, brush, and other organic materials.   The humic acids and other chemicals released by decomposition is beneficial to the fish and causes the water to turn a dark brown color.  This decomposition also causes the pH of the water to drop into the 3.0 or 4.0 range and results in a negligible dissolved mineral content (very soft water).

Because their normal habitat is in very slow moving waters littered with fallen tree branches, brush, and rotting leaves and under the dense jungle rain forest canopy where very little light is present, the fish should never be housed in a brightly lit tank or a tank with a strong current.

The clearer water habitats where Crossband Chocolate Gourami are sometimes found are similar in terms of water chemistry, but in most cases cause profuse growths of aquatic vegetation. Lymnophila, Utricularia, Cryptocoryne, Blyxa, Barclaya, and Eleocharis are representative genera of these areas and can be used in a low light aquarium environment.

Crossband Chocolate Gourami (Sphaerichthys selatanensis)

Like Chocolate Gourami (Sphaerichthys osphromenoides), male Crossband Chocolate Gourami (Sphaerichthys selatanensis) are colored brown with white vertical stripes, however, Sphaerichthys selatanensis have an additional light, vertically orientated bar on each flank originating just ahead of the dorsal fin and terminating just after the ventral fins.

In Sphaerichthys osphronemoides, this extra bar is absent or reduced to a small spot just behind the dorsal fin.  Females are generally more colorful than the males and adult males have a uniformly straight lower jaw profile and a more acuminate head shape than females.

Samurai Gourami (Sphaerichthys vaillanti) and Giant Chocolate Gourami (Sphaerichthys acrostoma) can be distinguished by their more elongate head and body profile, their reverse sexual dimorphism (females are more colorful), and the fact that they are paternal mouth brooders.

Crossband Chocolate Gourami are a shy, timid, and very slow moving species that should be housed in a biotope system with at least 6 to 8 of their own kind.

In the tannin stained jungle streams where they are found, they have been collected along with Betta foerschi, Deissner’s Liquorice Gourami (Parosphromenus parvulus), HalfBeaks (Hemirhamphodon chrysopunctatus), Pectenocypris korthausae, Foersch’s Fire Barb (Puntius foerschi), and Borneo bonylipped barb (Osteochilus pentalineatus).

Crossband Chocolate Gourami should be housed in a densely planted 20 gallon or larger aquarium, with a sandy or fine gravel substrate covered with dried leaf litter, lots of driftwood roots, wood bark, and branches formed into small caves for hiding places.

Oak, Beach, or Ketapang Indian Almond Leaves should be placed on the bottom of the tank to replicate the blackwater conditions these fish are found in, and to keep the pH in the water low.   As the leaves decompose in the tank, the microbe colonies that result provide a secondary food source for the fish and fry.  The tannins and chemicals released into the water are known to be medicinal, and will prevent fungal infections.  The leaves can either be removed and replaced every few weeks or so, or left in the tank to fully decompose.

Some tropical fish keeping enthusiasts place lengths of PVC plastic pipe or ceramic flowerpots into the tank for hiding places, but aesthetically, bogwood or driftwood roots are preferred.  Use low light loving plants like Microsorum, Taxiphyllum, Cryptocoryne, and Anubias to decorate and create hiding places for the fish.

To keep Crossband Chocolate Gourami healthy, diffused lighting, soft water, and a low pH level is critical.  This species lives in still, or very slow moving streams under the jungle canopy where very little light penetrates the water column.  Some floating plants in the aquarium do diffuse the light and very little current in the tank will mimic these conditions.

Avoid making large water changes that drastically change the chemistry of the aquarium. Performing a 10 to 15% water change every week, or every other week is more than adequate.  This species should only be kept in an aged aquarium.

Crossband Chocolate Gourami are maternal mouth brooders where the female broods the eggs.   This is unique in that the only other anabantoid species where the female broods the eggs is the Chocolate Gourami (Sphaerichthys osphromenoides osphromenoides).

Sphaerichthys selatanensis can be bred in a group or as a single pair, as long as the water quality and their conditioning diet is properly maintained.

Use a separate breeding tank with Peat blackwater extract and maintain the pH level at pH 6.2.   Lowering the water level and slowly raising the water temperature in the tank over a two by 2°, and then slowly adding some cooler water to the tank will usually initiate breeding activity.

The male will usually initiate courtship which can be recognized when the male turns a dark, almost gray pattern.  The colors in the female will intensify to a deep chocolate brown, with the light white vertical bars turning into an almost gold color.

The pair remains upright during the spawning, which may take several hours to accomplish.  When the eggs are laid and fertilized on the substrate, the female then collects them into her mouth.  The eggs are unique in that they are pear shaped and have a series of spiraling ridges on their outer surface.  Both parents will guard their territory until spawning is completed.

After the eggs are gathered by the female, she will find a quiet area in the tank where she will remain until the eggs hatch and the fry are fully formed.  This usually takes from 7 to 20 days, during which time the female does not eat.  After the fry are fully formed, the female will release anywhere from 10 to 40 free swimming fry from her mouth.

At this point the parents should be removed from the breeding tank and a tight fitting cover should be placed over the tank to create the humid air conditions required for the proper development of the labyrinth organ of the fry.  The fry are large enough to immediately accept microworms or freshly hatched baby brine shrimp.

During the rearing process, about 10% of the water in the tank should be changed daily to promote growth and maintain water quality.

In their natural habitat, Crossband Chocolate Gourami feed on small aquatic crustaceans, insect larvae, worms, and zooplankton among the leaves.  Wild caught specimens require a steady diet of live or frozen mosquito larvae, brine shrimp, Daphnia, grindal worms, , or bloodworms.  They may accept freeze dried bloodworms and even a quality carnivore flake food if the fish have been captive bred, but this species is difficult to feed, so be prepared to stock up on live and frozen foods if you intend to keep them.

Crossband Chocolate Gourami are only occasionally available to tropical fish keeping enthusiasts and are often sold as Cherry Chocolate Gourami.

Crossband Chocolate Gourami (Sphaerichthys selatanensis)

Minimum Tank Size: 20 gallons
Care Level: Difficult
Temperament: Shy, Peaceful
Aquarium Hardiness: Moderately Hardy
Water Conditions: 74-86°F, 0-54 ppm, pH 4.0-6.5
Max Size: 1.8″
Color Form: Brown, White
Diet: Carnivore
Compatibility: Biotope setup
Origin: Southern Borneo, Indonesia
Family: Osphronemidae
Lifespan: 5-8 years
Aquarist Experience Level: Intermediate or better

Chocolate Gourami (Sphaerichthys osphromenoides osphromenoides) are found in the Malay Peninsula, Sumatra, and Borneo throughout the Malaysian state of Sarawak and the Indonesian province of West Kalimantan (Kalimantan Barat).

Like other Anabantoidei, they possess a labyrinth organ that allows them to breathe atmospheric air to survive in oxygen depleted conditions that would kill most other species.

Chocolate Gourami are mainly found in the blackwater peat swamps and adjacent streams of their range, and sometimes in clear water areas that are tannin stained a dark brown color by the decomposition of leaves, brush, and other organic materials.  The humic acids and other chemicals released as decomposition occurs is beneficial to the fish and causes the water to turn a dark brown, to almost black color.  The decomposition also causes the pH of the water to drop into the 3.0 or 4.0 range and results in a negligible dissolved mineral content.

Because their normal habitat is found under the dense jungle rain forest canopy in slow moving waters littered with fallen tree branches, brush, and rotting leaves where very little light is present, the fish should never be kept in a brightly lit tank with a strong current.

The clearer water habitats where Chocolate Gourami are sometimes found are similar in terms of water chemistry, but in many cases cause aquatic vegetation to grow profusely.   Utricularia, Cryptocoryne, Blyxa, Barclaya, Eleocharis, and Lymnophila are representative genera of these areas.

Chocolate Gourami (Sphaerichthys osphromenoides osphromenoides)

Male Chocolate Gourami are colored a brown with white vertical stripes.

The males have a yellow border along the edge of their unpaired fins and in some populations, the fins of the male are more blueish or reddish.

Some male populations have more deeply forked caudal fins and more extended dorsal and anal fins.   Adult males have a straighter lower jaw profile than females and a more acuminate head shape.   The lower jaw is also slightly rounded because of the distensible skin that expands during mouthbrooding.

Chocolate Gourami (Sphaerichthys osphromenoides osphromenoides)

Chocolate Gourami are a shy, very timid, and slow moving species that should be housed in a biotope system with at least 6 to 8 of their own kind.

They have been collected along with Glowlight Rasboras (Trigonopoma pauciperforatum), Giant Pikehead (Luciocephalus pulcher), Nandus nebulosus, Brilliant Rasboras (Rasbora einthovenii), Dwarf Rasbora (Boraras maculatus), Java Combtail (Belontia hasselti), Betta waseri, Betta Tussyae, Crescent Betta (B. imbellis), and the Striped Glass Catfish (Kryptopterus macrocephalus).

All are slow moving, blackwater species that can be considered candidates for a biotope blackwater “community” aquarium.

Sphaerichthys osphromenoides osphromenoides can be housed in a densely planted 20 gallon or larger aquarium, with a sandy or fine gravel substrate covered with dried leaf litter, and lots of driftwood roots or branches for cover, in the form of small caves.  Oak, Beach, or Ketapang Indian Almond Leaves are necessary to replicate the blackwater conditions these fish are found in and to keep the pH in the water low.   As they decompose in the tank, the microbe colonies provide a secondary food source for the fish and fry.  The tannins and chemicals released are known to be medicinal and to prevent fungal infections.  The leaves or leaf litter can be removed and replaced every few weeks or so, or left in the tank to fully decompose.

Some tropical fish keeping enthusiasts place lengths of PVC plastic pipe or ceramic flowerpots in the tank for hiding places, but aesthetically, bogwood or driftwood roots are preferred.  Low light loving plants such as Microsorum, Taxiphyllum, Cryptocoryne, and Anubias are recommended for the tank.

To keep Chocolate Gourami healthy, soft water and a low pH is critical.   And, because they live in still, slow water environments under the jungle canopy, there should be very low lighting and very little or no current in the aquarium.    Adding some floating plants to the tank is an effective method for diffusing the light.

Avoid large water changes that can drastically change the chemistry of the system.   A 10 to 15% water change every week is more than adequate.  This species should only be kept in an aged aquarium.

Like the Samurai Gourami (Sphaerichthys vaillanti), Chocolate Gourami (Sphaerichthys osphromenoides osphromenoides) are mouth brooders.

However, unlike Samuari Gourami, Chocolate Gourami are maternal mouthbrooders where the female broods the eggs.   This is unique in that the only other anabantoid species where the female broods the eggs is the Crossband Chocolate Gourami (Sphaerichthys selatanensis).

Chocolate Gourami can be bred in a group or as a single pair as long as the water quality and their conditioning diet is maintained.

To initiate breeding, use peat extract and a pH of 6.2 in a breeding tank.   Lower the water level and raise the water temperature gradually over a two day period by 2°  and then slowly add some cooler water to the tank.

The male will normally imitates courtship which can be recognized when the male takes on a dark almost gray patterning.  The females color will intensify into a deep chocolate brown, with the light vertical bars turning into an almost golden color.

The pair remains almost upright during the spawning, which may take several hours to accomplish.  The eggs are laid and fertilized on the substrate where the female then collects them into her mouth.  Both the male and female will guard their territory until spawning is completed.  The female will then go to a quiet area in the tank where she will remain until the eggs hatch and the fry are fully formed.  This usually takes from 7 to 20 days, during which time the female does not eat.  After the fry are fully formed, the female releases from 10 to 40 free swimming fry from her mouth.

At this point the female should be removed from the breeding tank.  A tight fitting cover should be placed over the tank to create the humid air required for the proper development of the labyrinth organ of the fry.   They fry are large enough to immediately accept or freshly hatched baby brine shrimp.

During rearing, about 10% of the water in the tank should be changed daily to promote growth and maintain the water quality.

In their natural environment, Chocolate Gourami feed on small aquatic crustaceans, insect larvae, worms and zooplankton.  Most wild caught specimens require a steady diet of live or frozen mosquito larvae, brine shrimp, Daphnia, grindal worms , and bloodworms.   They may accept freeze dried bloodworms and even a quality carnivore flake food if the fish have been bred in captivity, but be prepared to stock up on live and frozen foods if you plan to keep this species.

Chocolate Gourami are not often available to tropical fish keeping enthusiasts.  The best way to obtain specimens is to special order through specialty dealers or purchase them online.  They are usually quite costly.

Chocolate Gourami (Sphaerichthys osphromenoides osphromenoides)

 
Minimum Tank Size: 20 gallons
Care Level: Difficult
Temperament: Shy, Peaceful
Aquarium Hardiness: Moderately Hardy
Water Conditions: 77-81°F, 1-4 dH , pH 6.0-7.0
Max Size: 2″
Color Form: Brown, White
Diet: Carnivore
Compatibility: Biotope setup
Origin: Asia; Sumatra, Borneo, Malay Peninsula
Family: Osphronemidae
Lifespan: 5-8 years
Aquarist Experience Level: Intermediate or better

The Samurai Gourami (Sphaerichthys vaillanti) is a semi-rare species that is found in the Kalimantan River in Borneo; more specifically, in the area of the village of Nangah Sebroeang, which is south of the Danau Sentarum National Park in the upper Kapuas river basin, West Kalimantan province (the Indonesian part of Borneo).

Samurai Gourami appear to be endemic to the Kapuas drainage where it has also been recorded from the Danau Sentarum lake system, to downstream near the city of Sintang.

Samurai Gourami are categorized under Anabantidae and like other gourami have a labyrinth organ that allows them to survive oxygen depleted environments and deteriorating water conditions that would kill other species.

Samurai Gourami (Sphaerichthys vaillanti)​ Pair (Photo by Suzanne Roelse)

Although sexing is difficult, the females have vertical red and green bars and possess a uniformly straight lower jaw profile and more acuminate head shape than the males.   The males are more plain and usually a pale gray or have a brownish tint.

Due to the presence of distensible skin that expands during mouthbrooding, their lower jaw is always slightly rounded.   During spawning their colors become more intense, but females are always more colorful than the males.

Sphaerichthys vaillanti live in the very soft, acidic, tannin stained peat swamps, brick water streams, and slow moving river systems with negligible amounts of dissolved mineral content where the pH can be as low as 3.0 or 4.0.   They normally inhabit areas where the dense rain forest canopy leaves very little light penetrating the surface of the water and the substrate is usually littered with rotting leaves and fallen tree branches.   The aquatic plant species that may grow in these conditions include genera such as Cryptocoryne, Blyxa, Barclaya, Eleocharis, Utricularia, and Lymnophila.

Samurai Gourami are not common even in the Danau Sentarum system where they are normally collected in small creeks among the debris and leaf litter.  Their color pattern and lethargic swimming behavior enable them to mimic the dead leaves where they are collected, making them very hard to detect.

Although Sphaerichthys vaillanti is not as sensitive to keep as the Chocolate Gourami (Sphaerichthys osphromenoides osphromenoides), it is not considered a “hardy” species and does require specialized care.

Samurai Gourami are a bit larger than other gourami and are best kept in smaller groups instead of pairs.   A 20 or 30 gallon tank is a good size for a group of 6 to 8 fish.

Although they do best in a single species biotope tank, they can be housed with other peaceful species such as Microrasbora sp., Boraras sp., Pangio sp. and most Corydoras sp.   They should never be housed with boisterous species

In an aquarium environment, Samurai Gourami require very soft, acidic water with a pH of 4.0 to 5.0.   Their water should be filtered through aquarium grade peat to maintain the acidic conditions they need and substantial amounts of driftwood or bogwood should be added to the tank for hiding places.   Beech, Ketapang  Almond Leaves, or Oak leaves should also be added to the tank to provide beneficial microbes that occurs with their decomposition.

Indian Almond Leaves release tannins and other chemicals into the water that create a blackwater environment that the fish need.  They also provide a food source for the fry as they decompose.  You can remove the leaves and replace them every few weeks or so, or you can allow them to fully break down in the tank.  Because they live in still water environments, there should be very little water flow in the aquarium.   Avoid large water changes that can change the chemistry of the system.   A 10 to 15% water change every week is more than adequate.

Because Samurai Gourami is a shy, extremely timid species, they do best under dim lighting.   Their tank should have plenty of floating plants and be densely planted with low light loving aquatic vegetation to help them feel more secure.  Plants from genera such as Microsorum, Taxiphyllum, Cryptocoryne, and Anubias are recommended for the tank.

When imported, Samurai Gourami are often acclimated in water with a higher pH.   Because they are extremely susceptible to fungal infections when kept in water at a higher pH, they should always be returned to the blackwater conditions that mimic their native at a pH of 4.0 to 5.0.

Unlike most species of gourami, Samurai Gourami are mouth brooders.   Females usually defend their territory while the males brood the eggs.   During the two weeks it takes for the eggs to hatch, the male will keep them in his mouth and not eat until hatching takes place.

Unlike most other gourami species, courtship is initiated by the female and the pair remain upright during spawning.  The spawning process usually takes several hours.

The eggs are laid and fertilized on the substrate, flower pot, etc. and the male then collects them in his mouth where they are held from 7 to 21 days until 10 to 40 fully formed free swimming juveniles are released.  At this point the male should be removed from the breeding tank to minimize predation.  They fry are large enough a this stage to accept newly hatched baby brine shrimp or .

It is important for the rearing tank to have a tight fitting cover to keep the air inside warm and humid for the proper development of the labyrinth organ in the fry.

Sphaerichthys vaillanti can also be finicky eaters.  In their natural environment, they feed on small aquatic crustaceans, insect larvae, worms and zooplankton.  Most specimens require a steady diet of live or frozen mosquito larvae, brine shrimp, Daphnia, grindal worms , and bloodworms.   They may accept freeze dried bloodworms and if you’re lucky, some may even eat a quality carnivore flake food; but be prepared to stock up on live and frozen foods if you plan to keep these fish.

Samurai Gourami are almost never available to tropical fish keeping enthusiasts. From time to time, they have occasionally been offered for sale by reputable global dealers online, but always at a high cost.

Samurai Gourami (Sphaerichthys vaillanti)​

Minimum Tank Size: 20 gallons
Care Level: Difficult
Temperament: Shy, Peaceful
Aquarium Hardiness: Moderately Hardy
Water Conditions: 70-78°F, 0-54ppm , pH 3.5-6.5
Max Size: 1.8 ″ to 2.2″
Color Form: Brown, Green, Red
Diet: Omnivore
Compatibility: Biotope setup
Origin: Kapuas river basin
Family: Osphronemidae
Lifespan: 5-8 years
Aquarist Experience Level: Intermediate or better

The Banded Gourami (Colisa fasciata) is found in Northern India, Pakistan, Assam, Burma, Bangladesh and Myammar.

Also recognized as Trichogaster fasciata, the Banded Gourami, is a tropical labyrinth fish that prefers the shallower weedy environments of ponds, ditches, lakes, large rivers, and other slow moving waters covered with surface vegetation.

In many parts of India and Pakistan,  Banded Gourami are used for food and aquacultured  in the rice paddies as a secondary means of income for local farmers.   The fish grow to almost 5″ in length with females being a bit smaller.

Like all lybrinth fishes, Banded Gourami can breathe atmospheric air with their maze like lybrinth organ which allows it to survive in the rice paddies and oxygen depleted waters where they are often found.

Banded Gourami (Colisa fasciata)

Male Banded Gourami have an orange body color with iridescent blue stripes, a caudal fin with blue spots at the base, and bright red spots towards the end.  The anal fin is colored an iridescent blue, with red edges at the end of the spines.

Adult males develop pointed anal and dorsal fins. Several color variations are known and are apparently dependent on geographical location.

Females have the same basic color patterns but, like the Dwarf Gourami, are a more pale grey.   They also have a rounded anal fin.

Banded Gourami are a shy peaceful species that are perfect candidates for most peaceful community aquariums.

Although they can be aggressive when spawning, males will usually only squabble among themselves or fish that are similarly colored. They get along well with barbs, danios, rasboras, most loaches and the smaller Bagrid catfish.

In a large aquarium, they can be housed with other gourami species however, they have been known to hybridize with the Thick Lipped Gourami (Colisa labiosa).

Banded Gourami do best in a quiet, dimly lit, heavily planted tank with plenty of floating plants for shade.  A fine dark gravel or sandy substrate should be provided with some driftwood roots and plenty of places for them to hide.

They do not like strong currents or bright lighting, so keep water movement to a minimum and only provide enough light for the plants to grow.  They prefer slightly acidic water but are tolerant of a wide range of water conditions.  This species is very timid, scares easily, and takes some time to adapt to conditions in the aquarium, so choose their tank mates carefully.

With a dark substrate and low lighting, they will develop beautiful colors at a par with Colisa labiosa.

Banded Gourami are bubble nest builders and easy to breed in an aquarium environment.  Keep the sexes separate and feed them plenty of live or frozen food for a few weeks before breeding them.  Set up a separate breeding tank with a dark sandy substrate and a water level not more than 8″ deep.   Add plenty of floating plants as well as some fine leaved plants like cabomba, to provide additional cover for the female.   The pH should be about 5.5 to 6.5 and the temperature should be raised to about 82 degrees F. Use a sponge corner bubble filter but keep water movement to a minimum.

When the female is noticeably gravid with eggs, place her into the breeding tank and add the male a couple of days later.  The male’s colors will intensify almost immediately and he will start to construct a bubble nest among the floating plants.   When the female is ready to spawn, she will approach the nest and the male will wrap his body around her to spawn.  As the eggs are released and begin to sink, the male will gather them in his mouth and blow them back into the nest.  Several spawning will occur until 500 to 1000 eggs are produced.

When spawning has been completed, remove the female from the tank.  The male will tend to the eggs and the fry, but when they hatch out in approximately 24 to 36 hours, it is best to remove the male.

At this point, it is important to keep a tight fitting cover on the breeding tank to ensure high humidity levels, so the labyrinth organs of the tiny fry can develop properly.

In another three days, the fry will be free swimming and should be fed infusoria or liquid fry food until they can eat newly hatched baby brine shrimp, , and powdered flake food.

Banded Gourami are omnivorous and very easy to feed.  In addition to a quality flake food, they should be offered live, frozen, and freeze dried foods to get the best colors from the fish.

Banded Gourami are occasionally available to tropical fish keeping enthusiasts at a size of between 1 1/2″ to 2 1/2″.

Banded Gourami (Colisa fasciata)

Minimum Tank Size: 20 gallons
Care Level: Moderate
Temperament: Shy, Peaceful
Aquarium Hardiness: Moderately Hardy
Water Conditions: 70-82°F, 4-15°dH , pH 6.0-7.5
Max Size: 4″
Color Form: Orange, Blue, Red
Diet: Omnivore
Compatibility: Good community tank fish
Origin: India, Pakistan, Burma
Family: Osphronemidae
Lifespan: 5-8 years
Aquarist Experience Level: Intermediate

The Gourami family (Osphronemidae) of freshwater labyrinth fishes are common throughout Asia, from Pakistan and India to the Malay Archipelago and northeast toward Korea however, the Gourami name is also used by tropical fish keeping enthusiasts to identify fish of the Anabantidae and Helostomatidae families which are also found in south Africa.

In addition to being a popular ornamental fish, Gourami are also an important food source in their native countries. Because of their size and tender flesh, Giant Gourami in particular are farmed in Thailand and other Southeast Asian countries and are highly prized as a food fish.   The Climbing Perch, Kissing Gourami, Snakeskin Gourami, and other labyrinth fish of the Trichogaster genus that are common in the aquarium trade are also a source of protein and a local food fish in Southeast Asia where they are salted and dried.

All Gourami species have a specialized labyrinth organ that allows them to gulp atmospheric oxygen to survive in the shallow, warm, oxygen depleted waters that they are frequently found in.   Most Gourami species are active during the daytime hours, but several African species feed at twilight and are nocturnal in nature.

Many Gourami have elongated feeler like rays at the front of each of their pelvic fins which they use to “touch” and “feel” their surroundings.   Most Gourami species show some form of parental care and some are mouth brooders.

The common Paradise Fish , Siamese Fighting Fish (Betta splendens), and others build bubble nests to protect their young, and of the 133 recognized species of Gourami, almost all of them make interesting, colorful additions to a peaceful community aquarium.

The following are some of the more well known, and not so well known species:

Banded Gourami (Colisa fasciata)

Betta albimarginata

Blue Paradise (Macropodus opercularis)

Chocolate Gourami (Sphaerichthys osphromenoides)

Climbing Perch
(Anabas testudineus)

Dwarf Gourami (Colisa lalia)

Flame Dwarf Gourami (Colisa lalia)

Giant Gourami (Osphronemus goramy)

Gold Gourami (Trichogaster trichopterus)

Honey Dwarf Gourami (Colisa chuna)

Kissing Gourami (Helostoma temmincki)

Licorice Gourami (Parosphromenus deissneri)

Moonlight Gourami (Trichogaster microlepis)

Neon Blue Dwarf Gourami (Colisa lalia)

Opaline Gourami (Trichogaster trichopterus)

Paradise fish (Macropodus opercularis)

Pearl Gourami (Trichogaster leeri)

Powder Blue Dwarf Gourami (Colisa lalia)

Siamese fighting fish (Betta splendens)

Snakeskin Gourami Trichogaster pectoralis

Sparkling Gourami (Trichopsis pumilus)

Talking Gourami (Trichopsis vittatus)

Three spot gourami (Trichopodus trichopterus)

In an aquarium environment, Gourami will generally swim near the top of the tank.   Most species are peaceful and relatively slow moving but are still capable of harassing or picking to death other long finned or smaller fish.   Some like the Siamese Fighting Fish must be kept in a single species tank or alone in a large community tank.   Two male Bettas cannot be kept together in the same tank and even females should be removed for their safety after breeding.

Dwarf Gourami, Three Spot Gourami, and Kissing Gourami are probably the most popular with tropical fish keeping enthusiasts and their beautiful colors, stately mannerisms and interesting antics are sure to keep you entertained.   Like the well known Archer Fish, some species of the genus Colisa can even spit water to down insects onto the waters surface.

Gourami come in wide range of sizes.   The Talking Gourami (Trichopsis vittatus) which only grows to about 2″ in length is a perfect candidate for small community aquariums.   The scarcer Sparkling Gourami (Trichopsis pumilus) is beautifully colored, easy to keep, and another great candidate for smaller aquariums.

On the other side of the spectrum, the Giant Gourami (Osphronemus goramy) which is often utilized as a food fish, can grow to a maximum length of 29″, while the silvery green celestial Moonlight Gourami (Trichogaster microlepis) with it’s threadlike ventral fins, typically grows to about 6″ in length and makes an awesome addition to larger community tanks.

Generally speaking, most Gourami can be housed with species such as danios, mollies, silver dollars, Corydoras, loaches, and plecostomus catfish, however they are often aggressive toward species that have long flowing fins like goldfish, male guppies, and Bettas.   Adult and juvenile males will sometimes spar with each other, especially during breeding, but aggression can be held to a minimum by providing a large densely planted tank with delineated territories.   Overcrowding is usually the primary cause for aggression in any species.

Although Gourami are hardy and tolerant of water conditions that would normally kill other aquarium species, they do best in an adequately sized, densely planted aquarium with some driftwood, a fine gravel or sandy substrate, some smooth river rock, good filtration, and minimal water flow.   Some floating plants can be added for species that are bubble nest builders or that thrive in low light conditions.   Always allow some head space in a tank with labyrinth fish so they can gulp atmospheric oxygen when needed.

Most Gourami are omnivores, and although they will eagerly east most prepared foods, they should be fed a varied diet to promote their development and enhance their gorgeous colors.   They do best on a quality omnivore flake food diet supplemented with fresh, frozen, or freeze dried brine shrimp, bloodworms, tubifex, mosquito larvae, and occasional offerings of fresh vegetable matter such as mashed peas, lettuce, or prepared algae wafers.

Most Gourami can be easily bred in an aquarium environment.   Many are bubble nest builders like the Betta splendens, and some are mouth brooders but all species show some form of parental care.

Breeding bubble nest builders is best accomplished in a separate breeding tank that has a tight fitting cover to maintain a high humidity level.   The size of the tank is dependent on the species being bred.   A 10 to 15 gallon tank is ideal for dwarf Gourami, while a 25 to 40 gallon tank is better for larger size fish.

The water level in the aquarium should be about 4 to 5 inches deep and the water temperature held at 86 to 90 degrees F.   There should be no filtration or air movement in the aquarium and because bubble nest builders use plant material in the construction of their nests, it is essential to have some floating plants in the tank.   Ceratopteris thalictroides, Limnophila aquatica, Riccia fluitans, and Vesicularia dubyana are excellent choices.

Condition the pair by feeding them freeze dried Tubifex, Daphnia, bloodworms and live or frozen brine shrimp.   When the pair is ready to breed the male will begin building a bubble nest on the surface and on the underside of the floating vegetation in the tank.   If you have condensation dripping from the tank cover back into the aquarium, the high humidity conditions are perfect for raising the fry which are highly susceptible to chilling of their labyrinth organ.

When the bubble nest is completed, the male will start courting the female, usually towards the evening hours, trying to draw her under the bubble nest.   During the courting display the male typically swims around the female with flared fins until the female accepts his invitation to spawn.   The pair will swim around together in circles under the nest until ready to spawn.   She will then touch the male on the tail or his back with her mouth until he embraces the female by turning her on her side and then onto her back.   The female will then release up to 60 eggs which are immediately fertilized by the male.

Most of the eggs will float up into the bubble nest but the male will quickly collect any stray eggs and place them there.   When all the eggs are secure in the nest, the pair will spawn again repeating the process until all the eggs are laid.

Depending on the species, males will spawn with several females in the same nest and the amount of eggs laid can vary from 2000 plus for a single Pearl Gourami female to less than 100 total for a Sparkling Gourami.

When the spawning is finished, the male will place a layer of bubbles underneath the eggs already in the nest.   At this time the female or females should be removed from the tank (for her protection).

The male will aggressively defending the eggs in the nest and the surrounding territory from any real or imaginary foes until they hatch (in 12 to 24 hours).   The male will tend to the fry and keep them in the bubble nest until they develop (in about two days) from tiny black spots to little “wrigglers” with their tiny tails hanging out of the nest.

Gourami Fry In Bubble Nest

The male will continue to care for the nest and catch any displaced fry by blowing them back into the bubbles.   This is why the water level is lowered in the breeding tank.

In the wild, gourami live in very shallow water with thick vegetation, and when the fry fall out of the bubble nest, the male can easily scoop them up and return them to safety.   The thick grass vegetation anchors the nest and keeps the bubbles together.

Gourami Bubble Nest

After 3 to 4 days the fry should be free swimming and begin leaving the nest in mass.   At this stage, the male should also be removed or he may consider them food.   Feed the fry infusoria or a liquid fry food until they are able to consume newly hatched baby brine shrimp and finely crushed flake food.

Avoid making any water changes for the first month or so, and then change only 10% of the water per week.   The fry are extremely delicate and regardless of how good a job you do, a large spawning of several hindered fry will yield only 20 to 30 young gourami.

The Dragon Goby (Gobioides broussonnetii) is a bizarre looking species that is also known to tropical fish keeping enthusiasts as the Violet Goby, Prehistoric Dragon Goby, Eel Goby, Peruvian Goby, and Dragon Fish.

The Dragon Goby is widely distributed throughout the Southern United States, Central America, The Caribbean Islands and Northeastern South America. They have also been recorded in Mexico, Belize, Guyana, French Guyana, Venezuela, Colombia, Brazil, the Cayman Islands, Turks Caicos, Cuba, Haiti, Jamaica, the Dominican Republic and Puerto Rico.

Dragon Gobies can be found in brackish estuarine areas where they congregate over muddy substrates. They are also frequently found in freshwater and in the open waters off estuaries.

Dragon Goby (Gobioides broussonnetii)

The Dragon Goby (Gobioides broussonnetii) has a long slender eel like body that is purple to lavender in color.

They have a large head and a large mouth that they use to sift vegetable matter and small organisms from the muddy substrate.   Although they grow to 25″ in their natural habitat, aquarium specimens are usually smaller.   There are no visible differences between the sexes.

Despite their large size and specialized feeding requirements, the Dragon Goby’s bizarre appearance has made it popular with tropical fish keeping enthusiasts.   Unfortunately they do not survive long in freshwater.

Gobioides peruanus is a smaller, true freshwater riverine species that grows to only 18″ in their natural habitat and is often sold as Gobioides broussonnetti.   Although they look similar, Gobioides peruanus is thicker and has a more purple colored body.

The true Dragon Goby, or Violet Gogy (Gobioides broussonnetii) is totally unsuitable for a general community aquarium.   However they can be kept with other peaceful brackish water species.   They are territorial with their own kind, but peaceful in nature and will not eat even the smallest tank mate.   They should not be housed with any aggressive brackish water species that out compete them for food and when keeping a group of several Dragon Gobies, a very large tank is needed to minimize bullying.

The Dragon Goby is a timid, burrowing species that is best kept in a 55 gallon or larger aquarium with a soft aragonite sand substrate that is several inches deep, and plenty of smooth rocks, caves, bogwood and plants for them to hide among.   They need hard brackish water that is at least a quarter of the strength of marine water preferably between (1.005-1.015 sg) with a pH of 7.5 to 9.0, an alkalinity of 10-25 dKH, and a temperature range of 73-79°F.   They enjoy spending their time partially buried in the substrate.

Although there are no external differences between sexes,the Dragon Goby can be bred in an aquarium environment.   Small spawning harems of one male to 3 or more females is recommended and the male will spawn with several females over the course of a day.   After spawning, the females should be removed from the tank and the male will continue to guard the eggs until they hatch, usually within 36 to 48 hours.   After hatching, the male should also be removed from the tank.

The fry can be fed green water and rotifers after they absorb their egg sacs, and after a month or so, they will be able to eat freshly hatched baby brine shrimp.

The Dragon Goby is a scavenger that in their natural habitat, feed on detritus and filamentous algae by filtering them from the mud with their mouths.   In an aquarium environment, most specimens will adapt to eating a varied diet of live and frozen bloodworms, brine shrimp, tubifex, pieces of algae wafers, Spirulina, nori, etc.   However, feeding freshly imported specimens can be a problem.   Vegetable matter is essential to the well being of these fish.

Both Gobioides broussonnetii and Gobioides peruanus are sold in tropical fish keeping shops as Dragon Gobies, Peruvian Gobies or Violet Gobies.   Make sure your supplier knows the difference between species before purchasing one for your tank.

Both are commonly available when they are between 4″ and 6″ in length.

Dragon Goby (Gobioides broussonnetii)

Minimum Tank Size: 55 gallons
Care Level: Moderate
Temperament: Semi-aggressive
Aquarium Hardiness: Moderately Hardy
Water Conditions: 72-80° F, KH 10-25, pH 7.5-9.0
Salinity: between 1.005-1.015
Max. Size: 25″
Color Form: Blue, Purple
Diet: Omnivore
Compatibility: Multiple peaceful species brackish water tank
Origin: Central America, South America
Family: Gobiidae
Life Span: 10 years
Aquarist Experience Level: Intermediate

The Freshwater Clam (Corbicual sp.) is a temperate species that inhabit rivers and lakes throughout the world.   The pictured specimens comes from Southeast Asia where they are also known as “basket clams” and only grow to about 2 1/2″ in width.

Freshwater Clam (Corbicual sp.)

Freshwater Clams are actually living filters.   They are an oddball item that some tropical fish keeping enthusiasts use to help maintain water quality in an aquarium.

Freshwater Clams siphon detritus and uneaten food from the water column, clean the water, and naturally lower nitrate levels in the aquarium.

Corbicual sp. should only be kept in tanks with a fine sand or very fine gravel substrate.    When placed on the substrate, they will bury themselves into the sandy bottom until only their siphon tubes can be seen above ground level.

Although these bivalves can be used to help filter the water in any aquarium, several things should be kept in mind before using them.

• They must be regularly fed and invertebrate food mixture.
• Do not keep them in aquariums with freshwater puffer fish or other invert eating species.
• Do not place them into aquariums that have not gone through the Nitrogen cycle.
• Do not place tap water into an aquarium with freshwater clams. The chlorine is toxic to them.
• Do not use any copper based medication with Freshwater Clams.   Copper in even minute quantities will kill them.

If your fish need a copper based medication, remove the clams into another aquarium until the treatment is completed and all traces of copper are chemically removed from the tank.   Water changes will not remove all the copper from the aquarium.

• Remove and dead specimens from the tank immediately.

Several species of Corbiculidae are frequently used in tropical freshwater tanks with excellent results.    The chart below show some of them:

• Corbicula Megerle von Mühlfeld, (central and southern Africa, Central and southern Asia)
• Geloina (southern Asia with Malaysia)
• Cyrenodonax (southern China, Vietnam)
• Cyrenobatissa (northern Vietnam)
• Batissa (Malaysia and Indonesia)
• Corbiculina (eastern Australia)
• Solielletia (Ethiopia)
• Polymesoda Rafinesque, 1820 (Gulf coast, and Atlantic coast of northern South America)
• Neocorbicula Fischer, 1887 (Gulf coast, and Atlantic coast of northern South America)
• Pseudocyrena (Caribbean side of Central America)
• Egetaria (Atlantic coast of South America)
• Villorita (eastern parts of South America)

Freshwater Clams in the family Corbiculidae are ovoviviparous and release many juveniles into the surrounding waters that have hatched inside the clam itself.   Fertilization is internal and the juveniles are much smaller than Pea Clams or Fingernail Clams of the related family Sphaeriidae.

Although some very small Freshwater Clams do not need any special feeding, most tropical fish keeping enthusiasts augment their natural  filter diet with and invertebrate food.   Most freshwater clams in an aquarium environment, even with a full load of fish, will need an additional food source to what they can siphon from the water column.

We highly recommend that you avoid keeping clams in a community aquarium setting as they are destined to die from starvation.   Although they can be successfully kept in a biotope setting when regularly fed with an invert food mixture, most tropical fish keeping enthusiasts have much better success keeping freshwater clams and mussels in ponds where the water is usually substantially dirtier and full of microorganisms for them to filter feed on.

When available for sale, these little “living filters” can be from 1/2″ to 3″ in width, depending on the species.

Freshwater Clam (Corbicual sp.)

Minimum Tank Size: 10 gallons
Care Level: Easy
Temperament: N/A
Aquarium Hardiness: Hardy
Water Conditions: 65-85 deg. F, 8-0 GH, pH 6.5-8.0
Max. Size: 1/2″ – 3″″
Color Form: Tan, Brown, Black
Diet: Omnivore
Compatibility: No invert eating species
Origin: Woldwide
Family: Corbiculidae
Lifespan: Unknown
Aquarist Experience Level: All

The Red Tail Hemiodus Tetra (Hemiodus gracilis) is also referred to as the Slender Hemiodus, or Red Hemiodus Tetra by tropical fish keeping enthusiasts, and is found in the floodplains, rivers, and lakes of Venezuela, Guyana, and Brazil, South America.

Red Tail Hemiodus Tetras are a peaceful, skittish, shoaling species that are found in large schools in clean, clear, fast moving highly oxygenated waters and streams with some vegetation.

Red Tail Hemiodus Tetra (Hemiodus gracilis)

The Red Tailed Hemiodus Tetra has a wiry body that is slightly flattened on the sides with a deeply forked tail.   Their body color is silvery with greenish hues, and they have a black band that begins in the middle of the body and ends at the lower edge of the caudal fin.

An intense red flap directly below the black band on the lower edge of the caudal fin sets the fish off and gives it it’s common ies name.

In their natural habitat Red Tail Hemiodus Tetras can grow over 6″ in length, and when placed in a community aquarium environment, they will often intimidate smaller, more slow moving species.

Although it is classified as being Semi-Aggressive, this is probably due to their nervous nature and large size.   They are fast swimmers and are actually a quite peaceful schooling fish that can be quite shy.

When housed in a single species aquarium, they are best kept in groups of at least 10 or more individuals, and should only be stocked in mature, aged aquariums.

In a community tank they can be kept in a larger Amazon biotope setup in small groups with peaceful cichlids like Geophagus, similarly sized characins, Tatanoperca and Heros, catfish, and Loricariids.   They also go well with rainbowfish, Bala Sharks, Discus, and Angelfish.   They should not be housed with much smaller species.

Red Tail Hemiodus Tetras are best housed in a densely planted aquarium of at least 55 gallons with a sandy or fine gravel substrate, with perhaps some driftwood branches and twisted roots scattered around and plenty of swimming space.   Some floating plants are recommended to calm down the fish and make them less skittish.

They need well filtered, highly oxygenated water to thrive; so a powerhead or two in addition to a canister filter is highly recommended.   Red Tail Hemiodus Tetras can leap surprisingly long distances, so a tight fitting cover is also suggested for their tank.

Because these tetras require a higher water quality than most fish and are sensitive to poor water conditions, regular partial water changes are recommended as routine maintenance.  This is one species that does not do well in small aquariums.

Slender Hemiodus have not been successfully bred in an aquarium environment and not much is known about their breeding habits other than the fact that they are egg scatterers.

Hemiodus gracilis are carnivores and prefer live foods whenever possible.  They will accept a good quality flake food but prefer live, frozen or freeze dried bloodworms, mosquito larvae, brine shrimp, blackworms, etc.

Red Tail Hemiodus Tetra (Hemiodus gracilis) are not a common item in tropical fish keeping shops but they can be purchased online and from specialty shops.   They are moderately priced and are usually between 1 3/4″ to 4″ in length when available for sale.

Red Tail Hemiodus Tetra (Hemiodus gracilis)

Minimum Tank Size: 55 gallons
Care Level: Moderate
Temperament: Peaceful
Aquarium Hardiness: Moderately Hardy
Water Conditions: 72-80° F, KH 2-15, pH 5.8-7.2
Max. Size: 6″
Color Form: Silver
Diet: Omnivore
Compatibility: OK with larger species
Origin: South America,
Family: Hemiodontidae
Lifespan: 8 years
Aquarist Experience Level: Intermediate

Elephantnose Fish (Gnathonemus petersii) are widely distributed throughout Africa in Mali, Benin, Niger, Nigeria, Chad, Central African Republic, Cameroon, Republic of Congo, Democratic Republic of Congo and Zambia.

They are a largely nocturnal, scaleless fish that inhabit the dark muddy beds and heavily vegetated areas of slow flowing rivers where they root around the substrate for small worms and crustaceans.

The Elephantnose Fish, also known as Peter’s Elephantnose, is the most common Mormyrid known to tropical fish keeping enthusiasts and probably the most abused.   This is one species that must have a mud or sandy substrate in their aquarium and should never be kept in a tank with gravel.

Peter’s Elephantnose uses its “trunk” or proboscis to locate food hidden in the substrate.   It also needs to be housed under dim lighting.   When it is kept under bright aquarium lighting, they become withdrawn and will eventually waste away.

Elephantnose Fish are scaleless and sensitive to salt and most aquarium medications.   They are also extremely sensitive to deteriorating water quality and are used in many European municipal water supplies to flag deteriorating water conditions.   Like other Mormyrids, they produce a weak electric field using specially adapted muscle tissue located near the fish’s tail.   As the water quality deteriorates and becomes more polluted, the frequency of their electrical discharges increases, signalling poor water quality.

Elephantnose Fish (Gnathonemus petersii)

Gnathonemus petersii are colored black to dark gray with two white vertical V shaped lines that run from their rear set dorsal fin down to their anal fin.   They have a downward pointing fleshy “nose” or proboscis that they use to burrow around in the substrate for worms.

In addition to the specially adapted muscle tissue at their tail, they also possess electroreceptors that allow them to receive electrical signals through the water column. When the electrical field they generate is disturbed around them, they can sense the most minute movement in the water.   This adaptation is used for communication, finding mates, and for locating their food.

Although some tropical fish keeping enthusiasts suggest that the shape of the anal fin can determine the sex of Peter’s Elephantnose, there is no accurate visible external way to differentiate between sexes.

Elephantnose Fish have very large brains for their size, with three different electroreceptors that carry information to the fish in total darkness. They are able to differentiate between different species and even determine the sex of conspecifics to find mates, all in total darkness.

Elephantnose Fish are quiet but somewhat territorial species.   They do not mix well with other Mormyrids nor should they be housed with aggressive or very active fish.   Unless they are housed in an African single species biotope setting, they should not be kept in pairs.   There is a tendency for one fish to bully the other fish to death.   If more than one fish is to housed together, a minimum of 5 specimens is recommended in a large tank to keep aggression to a minimum.

In a community tank setting, they can be kept with other African species such as Congo Tetras, Synodontis catfish, smaller Bichirs, African Butterfly Fish, peaceful cichlids like Geophagus, Angelfish, or Satanoperca and Ctenopoma species.

Elephantnose Fish are best kept in densely planted 55 gallon or larger aquarium with only a muddy or sandy substrate (NO gravel), some African Driftwood, some smooth river rock made into caves and plenty of hiding places.   Being nocturnal, they need minimal lighting so low light loving plants like Java Fern, Java Moss, Anubias spp. and Vallisneria can be used to aquascape the tank.

A few floating plants
will also help diffuse the lighting in the tank.   A sand substrate is critical to the well being of this species.   When it feeds, it burrows into the substrate with it’s fleshy proboscis like lower lip and when regular aquarium gravel is used, the coarse substrate usually damages their mouth prohibiting it from feeding naturally.

Finally, a good filtration system is needed along with regular partial water changes to maintain water quality and the health of these fish.

To date, no successful spawning has occurred in an aquarium environment.   It is believed that keeping the fish confined causes their electrical impulses to become less defined and that they cannot recognize members of the opposite sex.

Most Elephantnose Fish are not fussy about eating and will accept a wide range of fresh, frozen or freeze dried foods.   They are particularly fond of live tubifex but will eat many other types of meaty foods such as bloodworms, chopped earthworms, brine shrimp, and blackworms.   If you cannot provide suitable lighting for these fish to feed during daylight hours, feed them just before you turn the lights out on the tank at night so they can get their share.

Elephantnose Fish are usually available at most tropical fish shops and online.    They are usually sold when they are between 4″ and 6″ in length.

Elephantnose Fish (Gnathonemus petersii)

Minimum Tank Size: 55 gallons
Care Level: Moderate
Temperament: Semi-aggressive
Aquarium Hardiness: Hardy
Water Conditions: 73-82° F, 5-15°H, pH 6.0-7.5
Max. Size: 9″
Color Form: Black
Diet: Carnivore
Compatibility: Peaceful Community Tanks
Origin: Africa
Family: Mormyridae
Lifespan: 6-10 Years
Experience Lever: Intermediate

The Congo Bichir (Polypterus endlicheri congicus) is found in the Democratic Republic of Congo, the Congo Republic, along Lake Tanganyika, Tanzania and Zambia, Africa.   They are also known to tropical fish keeping enthusiasts as the Congicus Bichir.

Congo Bichir (Polypterus endlicheri congicus)

Congo Bichirs grow to a maximum length of about 39″ and are colored a yellowish brown to gray on their upper body that becomes lighter towards their belly and ventral area.   Their pectoral fins only allow for slow cruising, however they can achieve amazing bursts of speed for short distances using their powerful tails.

They have a slender eel like appearance and a prominent lower jaw similar to Polypterus endlicheri.   Their dorsal spines extend forward to the rear of the pectoral fins, and the males have a wider, thicker anal fin than females of the species.

Congo Bichirs frequent the swamps, marshes, flooded plains, rivers and lakes of their range and like other members of the Polypteridae family, have the ability to survive out of water for short periods as long as they are kept moist.   They posses both a modified paired swim bladder that functions like “lungs”, as well as gills to breathe.   The right side of their swim bladder is larger than the left and is used for breathing atmospheric air. These fish can actually drown if denied access to atmospheric oxygen.

Congo Bichirs are a relatively peaceful, slow moving, predatory species.   In their natural habitat they feed on live or dead fish, crustaceans, worms, amphibians, dead animals, and basically anything they can fit into their mouths.

All Bichir species are relatively peaceful when housed with fish that are too large for them to eat, but they will eventually feast on smaller fish and even other Bichirs if they are smaller.   Providing they are of approximately the same size, the only time Bichirs will squabble between themselves is during feeding.

Congo Bichirs are best kept in a densely planted single species tank of at least 150 gallons with a sand or fine gravel substrate, some driftwood, plenty of caves in the form of smooth rockwork and a lot of bottom tank space.   They prefer a dimly lit tank, and because of their habit of rooting along the bottom, the plants in the aquarium should be potted or have their bases protected by rockwork.   They are “escape artists” and need a tightly fitting aquarium cover with some head space for them to occasionally take a gulp of air.   Like all Polypterus, the Congo Bichir is a messy eater that requires a good filtration system and regular, partial water changes to maintain good water quality.

Congo Bichirs are easy to feed in an aquarium environment.   They will readily accept fresh or frozen shrimp, bloodworms, blackworms, live or dead fish, chopped beef heart, mussels, and earthworms.   They will also occasionally take dry foods such as shrimp or cichlid pellets.   Being a nocturnal species, they should be fed just before turning out the aquarium lights in the evening.

Congo Bichirs are not common but can occasionally be purchased online or from specialty tropical fish shops.   They are costly when available and run approximately $150.00 USD for an 11″ or 12″ young adult.

Congo Bichir (Polypterus endlicheri congicus)

Minimum Tank Size: 150 gallons
Care Level: Difficult
Temperament: Semi-aggressive
Aquarium Hardiness: Hardy
Water Conditions: 72-83° F, 5-20 GH, pH 6.5-8.4 Max.
Size: 38″-48″
Color Form: Tan, Gray
Diet: Carnivore
Compatibility: Peaceful with fish which are to large to eat
Origin: Congo Dem Rep, Congo Rep, Tanzania and Zambia
Family: Polypteridae
Lifespan: 12 Years
Aquarist Experience Level: Intermediate

The Weeksii Bichir (Polypterus weeksii) is also known to tropical fish keeping enthusiasts as the Mottled or Fatheaded Bichir.    It is found in the Congo River basin in Central Africa and like others of the family Polypteridae, they have the ability to survive out of water for short periods of time provided they remain moist.

Like the Retropinnis Bichir (Polypterus retropinnis), they posses a modified paired swim bladder that has the function of “lungs”, as well as a set of gills.   These fish can actually drown if they are unable to surface to take a gulp of atmospheric air.

Weeksii Bichir (Polypterus weeksii)

Weeksii Bichirs are snakelike in appearance with a large head and a dorsal fin that merges with the caudal and anal fins.   Their pectoral fins are used for crawling when out of water and for mobility when on the bottom of the aquarium.

They are greenish brown in color with black banding. Males have a thicker anal fin than females of the species and are usually a bit smaller.

Weeksii Bichirs are best housed in a densely planted, dimly lit aquarium, with a sandy or fine gravel substrate, a few pieces of driftwood, plenty of smooth rockwork in the form of caves to hide among, and plenty of bottom space.   As juveniles they can be housed in a tank as small as 20 gallons but as they grow into adults, they will need a tank of at least 100 gallons.

Like most other Bichirs, the Weeksii Bichir is relatively peaceful with other large passive fish as long as there is plenty of open swimming space and a lot of dense cover.   They are nocturnal feeders and should not be trusted with tank mates small enough to fit into their mouths.   They get along well with other Polypterus of the same size but will squabble over food during feedings.

Polypterus weeksii are messy eaters, so a good filtration system and frequent partial water changes are a must.   They are also “escape artists” and need a tight fitting tank cover with enough head space to allow them access to atmospheric oxygen.

Although breeding the Weeksii Bichir has not been recorded in an aquarium environment, their breeding habits are believed to be similar to that of other Polypterus species.   During the rainy season, changes in temperature and water chemistry spark spawning behavior.   These conditions are difficult to replicate in an aquarium but a large densely planted tank with soft, slightly acidic water and dim lighting may induce spawning behavior.

When ready to spawn, the male Mottled Bichir will chase and nudge the female until she submits.   The male cups his anal and caudal fins around the female to receive her eggs which are immediately fertilized and scattered among the vegetation in the aquarium.   The parents should be immediately removed from the tank at this point.   The eggs hatch in 3 to 4 days and are free swimming about 3 to 4 days later.   The fry are slow moving and should be fed newly hatched baby brine shrimp or microworms with an eye dropper until they are able to eat larger fare.

Adult Weeksii Bichirs are easy to feed and will generally accept a quality carnivore pellet or stick however, they prefer live or frozen foods such as mysis shrimp, brine shrimp, chopped beef heart, bloodworms, chunks of raw fish, earthworms, blackworms or fresh market shrimp.  They should  be fed once or twice a day as much as they can consume in five minutes.

Because they are a slow moving nocturnal species and have poor eyesight,  feed Weeksii Bichirs in the evening just before turning off the light on your aquarium.  They have a well developed sense of smell that gives them an advantage over their tank mates when eating at night.

Weeksii Bichirs are available on a seasonal basis from specialty tropical fish keeping shops and online, but they are not a common stock item in most shops.   When available for sale they are usually about 3″ to 5″in length.    Most are wild caught and could carry parasites or have infections so it is advisable to keep them isolated until given a clean bill of health.

Weeksii Bichir (Polypterus weeksii)

Minimum Tank Size: 100 gallons
Care Level: Difficult
Temperament: Semi-aggressive
Aquarium Hardiness: Hardy
Water Conditions: 77-83° F, KH 1-12, pH 6.5-8.0
Max. Size: 22″
Color Form: Green, Tan
Diet: Carnivore
Compatibility: Keep with others of same size
Origin: Congo River basin in the Republic of Congo, Democratic Republic of Congo
Family: Polypteridae
Lifespan: 10 Years
Aquarist Experience Level: Intermediate

The Retropinnis Bichir (Polypterus retropinnis) is known to tropical fish keeping enthusiasts as the West African Bichir or Speckled Bichir and is found in the Congo River basin in Western Africa and has been recorded in Benin, Gaboon, Nigeria, Cameroon, the Democratic Republic of Congo, Liberia, Ghana, and the Congo Republic.

Retropinnis Bichirs frequent the swamps, marshes, flooded forests and smaller rivers of their range and like other members of the Polypteridae family, have the ability to survive out of water for short periods as long as they are kept moist.    They posses both a modified paired swim bladder that has the function of “lungs”, as well as gills to breathe.    The right side of their swim bladder is larger than the left and is used for breathing atmospheric air.   These fish can actually drown if denied access to atmospheric oxygen.

Retropinnis Bichir (Polypterus retropinnis)

Speckled Bichirs have a snakelike body with a blunt tapered head.    They are largely nocturnal and have poor vision, but an excellent sense of smell.    They are yellowish brown in color and are covered with dark patches that extend from their dorsal fin downwards over their body.

Males can be distinguished from females by their thicker anal fins.    Juvenile Polypterus retropinnis have external “water dog like” gills that disappear as the fish grows into adulthood.

In an aquarium environment when they are provided with plenty of swimming area and places for them to hide, they are not usually aggressive towards their tank mates, however, they are nocturnal hunters and will swallow any invert or fish that they can get into their mouths if they get the opportunity to do so.

Some acceptable tankmates include other Polypterus species, Synodontis cats, Datnoides, Knife Fish, larger Ctenopoma species, medium size characins and African Butterfly Fish.

They are best kept in a single species tank of at least 55 gallon capacity with a sandy or fine gravel substrate, some driftwood

bogwood roots, some rocks formed into crevices, and a few aquatic plants to suit your taste.    They prefer a dimly lit aquarium, and because they are prone to jumping, a tight fitting lid is a must.    When housed with other Bichirs, up-size their aquarium to at least 100 gallons.

Retropinnis Bichirs have not been reportedly bred in captivity, however their breeding habits are similar to other of other Polypterus species. During the rainy season, changes in water chemistry and temperature are believed to induce spawning.

If you would like to try breeding this species, provide them with a large densely planted tank with soft, slightly acidic water.    They are egg scatterers and will deposit their eggs on the vegetation or spawning mops.    Courtship involves the males chasing the female and nudging her until spawning commences.    The male cups his anal and caudal fins around the female’s genitals as he collects and fertilizes them, and then scatters them amongst the plants or breeding mops.    They will eat their eggs and should be immediately removed from the tank as soon as the eggs are scattered.

The eggs hatch out in 3 or 4 days and the fry are free swimming about 3 days later.    The fry are not very mobile so feed them microworms or newly hatched baby brine shrimp with an eye dropper to ensure they have access to plenty of food.

Retropinnin Bichirs are carnivorous by nature and will not usually accept dried foods in an aquarium environment.   They will accept live or frozen shrimp, prawns, mussels, earthworms, chopped meat or small fish. Because they are nocturnal, it is best to feed them during the evening just before turning off the lights on your aquarium.

Retropinnin Bichirs are a relatively common item in tropical fish keeping shops and are usually offered for sale when they are approximately 3″ to 6″ in length.    Prices vary and albino specimens always demand a higher price.

Retropinnis Bichir (Polypterus retropinnis)

Minimum Tank Size: 55 gallons
Care Level: Difficult
Temperament: Semi-aggressive
Aquarium Hardiness: Hardy
Water Conditions: 77-83° F, 5-25H, pH 6.5-8.0
Max. Size: 14″
Color Form: Tan, Yellow
Diet: Carnivore
Compatibility: Keep with others of same size
Origin: West Africa
Family: Polypteridae
Lifespan: 10 Years
Aquarist Experience Level: Intermediate

The Spotted African lungfish (Protopterus dolloi) is also referred to by tropical fish keeping enthusiasts as the Slender Lungfish and is found in middle Africa, the lower Congo River, the Kouilou-Niari, and the Ogowe River basins.

Spotted African Lungfish live in the temporary floodplains, riverbeds, swamps, marshes, and backwaters of the above basins and during spawning season can be found in open water.

Albino Spotted African Lungfish (Protopterus dolloi)

These lungfish have the eel like body that all species posses and are generally brown in color.   Juveniles have black spots spattered throughout the entire body which are lost as they become adults.

Like all Protopteridae species, they are capable of aestivation however, this species generally does not aestivate.

Adult Spotted African Lungfish require a large aquarium of at least 100 gallon capacity.   Juveniles can be housed in a smaller aquariums but will eventually outgrow their accommodations.    Because lungfish are not very active, they only need enough room in their tank to move around freely.

Spotted African Lungfish are best kept in a single species tank with a mud, sand, or very fine gravel substrate.   Except for keeping water movement to a minimum, they are not very fussy about their accommodations.    A few aquatic plants, some driftwood roots and smooth rocks for them to hide among is all that is required, but since they are “escape artists” they should have a tightly fitting cover over their tank with enough of an air gap for them to surface for atmospheric oxygen when they need to breathe.    They also prefer a dimly lit tank.

Lungfish are messy eaters and although they are tolerant of a wide range of water parameters, an outside canister filter should be used to keep their water clean to minimize the possibility of disease.

Spotted African lungfish have not been bred in captivity and there is no external difference between sexes.    In their natural habitat their nests can be found during the breeding season from June through October, which coincides with the rainy season.

Like the Marbled Lungfish (Protopterus aethiopicus) the males dig a nest in the mud and line it with aquatic vegetation.   After the females deposits her eggs and the male fertilizes them,  the male will guard the eggs and later the fry, until they lose their gill like appendages and become air breathing.    The females normally play no role in the rearing the young and move into open water after the eggs are deposited.

Protopterus dolloi are omnivorous and in their natural habitat feed on invertebrates, fish, worms, amphibians, and vegetable matter.   In an aquarium environment they will eat a variety of foods such as mussels, clams, prawn, shrimp, fish, earthworms and vegetable matter.    Most will adapt to eating algae wafers and other prepared foods but adults should be fed a diet of fish.

Spotted African Lungfish should be fed twice a day as juveniles and only a couple of times a week as adults.    They do not need food on a daily basis once they become adults.

Although Protopterus dolloi are easy to keep and extremely hardy, they are only recommended for intermediate to advanced tropical fish keeping enthusiasts.    They are longlived and have a lifespan of over 20 years, so a commitment must be made prior to purchasing this species to keep them for an extended period.

Slender Lungfish are available from specialty fish shops and over the internet at modest to high prices. Their availability is usually limited.

Spotted African Lungfish (Protopterus dolloi)

Minimum Tank Size: 100 gallons
Care Level: Moderately Difficult
Temperament: Semi-Aggressive
Aquarium Hardiness: Hardy
Water Conditions: 75 to 86° F, 2-15 dH, pH 6.0-7.5
Maximum Size: 52″
Color Form: Brown
Diet: Carnivore
Compatibility: Single Species Tank
Origin:
Family: Protopteridae
Lifespan: 25 Years
Aquarist Experience Lever: Intermediate

The West African lungfish (Protopterus annectens) is the most commonly seen species in the tropical fish keeping hobby.    It is found in the partially dry floodplains, marshes, slow moving backwaters and the swamps of Guinea, Togo, Sierra Leone, Cameroon, Niger, Ivory Coast, Nigeria, Burkina, Faso, Gambia, Ghana, Chad, Benin, Senegal, Kenya, Mali, Sudan and the Central African Republic.

It is obviously widespread throughout West Africa, hence it’s common name.

West African lungfish have rudimentary gills that allow them to breathe underwater and a set of paired lungs that allow them to periodically rise to the surface to gulp in atmospheric air.   Their “lungs” are actually a modified swim bladder that is similar to those of primitive amphibians.

West African lungfish (Protopterus annectens)

Like most lungfish, the West African Lungfish has developed four long, thin, fleshy limb like structures that they use to crawl around in the mud and when necessary, over land.   They posses tooth enamel, have a four chambered heart that allows a separation between pulmonary and body blood flow, and can slow their metabolic rate into a state of aestivation where it can remain for several years.

As the waters subside during the African dry season, the West African Lungfish will look for a “nesting” site, usually around vegetation and dig a tunnel (usually about 12″ deep)into the muddy substrate.   They burrow themselves into the tunnel and wriggle around until they form a bulb like chamber, where they will spend the dry season.   They position themselves with their head towards the opening and secrete a mucous around themselves that hardens into a “cocoon” and protects the fish.  At this point their metabolism slows down to a halt and they remain motionless until the rainy season returns.    This entire process is known as aestivation.

Because of it’s availability and more manageable size, Protopterus annectens is the most commonly seen lungfish in the aquarium hobby.    It is the most available, extremely hardy, and relatively easy to keep compared to the other species however, it is still only recommended to intermediate and more experienced tropical fish keeping enthusiasts.   Their crushing teeth can cause a nasty bite and they should be handled with extreme care. Feed them with tongs, not your hand.

Juvenile West African Lungfish can initially be kept in smaller tanks, but they will quickly outgrow them.   An aquarium of at least 60 gallons is recommended with a mud, sandy, or extremely fine gravel substrate.   They are lethargic and do not move around much, but they still need room to turn around.   They are not picky about their surroundings but water movement should be kept to a minimum.

Most tropical fish keeping enthusiasts provide some aquatic vegetation along with driftwood or bogwood roots for them to hide among, and they do prefer dim lighting conditions.   A cover should be placed on their tank with enough of a space for them to gulp fresh air as needed.

All lungfish are messy eaters and although they can tolerate a wide range of adverse water conditions, a canister filter should be used to keep their tank clean and prevent disease.    Because of their soft skin, avoid placing any sharp decorations into their tank.

All lungfish are best kept in a single species aquarium.    Some hobbyists try to keep them in a community tank with other large species, but they are unpredictable and can suddenly turn on their tankmates.   This species is also intolerant of other lungfish in their proximity.

Spawning the West African Lungfish has not yet been achieved in captivity.    In the wild, they construct a nest in the mud and line it with vegetable matter.    After the eggs are deposited into the nest by the female and fertilized by the male, the male will guard the eggs until they hatch and the little tadpole like fry lose their “Newt like” gills.   Their spawning behavior is basically the same as the Marbled Lungfish (Protopterus aethiopicus).

Protopterus annectens are omnivorous and in their native habitat prey on fish, shellfish, amphibians, and various types of plant matter.   In an aquarium environment, they should be fed a variety of live or fresh dead foods including shrimp, prawns, mussels, pieces of fish, algae wafers and other vegetable matter.    Adults should be fed whole fish or chunks of fresh fish and shrimp.

Juvenile Lungfish should be fed twice a day, but as they mature they only need to be fed a couple of times a week.   In the wild they can go without food for months, to years.

West African Lungfish are relatively common but are still considered a “specialty” item.    They are available online as juveniles at reasonable prices, but be prepared to make a commitment to keeping one of these fish for a long time.    They routinely live for 20 years or more.

West African lungfish (Protopterus annectens)

Minimum Tank Size: 60 gallons
Care Level: Moderately Difficult
Temperament: Semi-Aggressive
Aquarium Hardiness: Hardy
Water Conditions: 76.0 to 86.0° F, > 10 dH, pH 6.0-8.0
Maximum Size: 40″
Color Form: Gray, Brown
Diet: Carnivore
Compatibility: Single Species Tank
Origin: West Africa
Family: Protopteridae
Lifespan: 25 Years
Aquarist Experience Lever: Intermediate