The Lohachata Botia Loach (Botia lohachata) is also known to tropical fish keeping enthusiasts as the Yoyo Loach, Almorha Loach, Pakistani Loach, Reticulated Loach, and Y-Loach.

Because only a single juvenile specimen was used to originally describe Botia lohachata, the validity of the species has never been fully resolved.   Grant in 2007 considered it as a distinct species that has definitely been exported for the aquarium trade, but confirmation is still required.

Lohachata Botia Loach (Botia lohachata)

Juvenile Lohachata Botia Loaches have a gold to silver metallic sheen that turns a gray to green in adults, without the sheen.  Three unconnected “Y” markings typically occur in adult and juvenile specimens which give rise to one of their common names, the Yoyo Loach.

The dorsal fin of the Lohachata Botia loach has 2 to 3 bands; the caudal fin has 3 to 4 bands, the pectoral fins usually have 3 bands, the anal fin has 1 or 2 bands, and the ventral fins usually have 1 to 4 bands that increase with age.

The Lohachata Botia Loach can further be identified by the four pairs of barbels that protrude from their mouth and their silvery gold with irregular black striping color.

The Lohachata Botia Loach is often believed to be a scaleless fish but they do have very small scales that are embedded in their skin.

Like all loaches, the Lohachata Botia Loach is an active scavenger.  They are a semi aggressive species that enjoy the company of their own species.  They generally school with other loaches of the same size and age, and should be housed in groups of 6 or more specimens in an aquarium environment.

Lohachata Botia Loaches require an aquarium of at least 30 gallons with a sandy or fine gravel substrate, some plants, some smooth river rock, a few pieces of driftwood or bogwood for them to hide among, and plenty of free swimming space. They like holes in driftwood or caves in the rockwork to hide and sleep.

Because Lohachata Botia Loaches are found in shaded jungle streams, they prefer subdued lighting or a few floating plants in their tank to diffuse the lighting and provide cover.

All botia loaches are excellent diggers, and because of their delicate barbels, should be provided with a sandy substrate in their tank. These loaches are also excellent jumpers and require a tightly fitting tank cover.

Lohachata Botia Loaches do best in well oxygenated water with some degree of current in their tank.  They are intolerant to the accumulation of organic wastes and need spotless water conditions to thrive. For this reason, many tropical fish keeping enthusiasts opt for using a quality canister filter for this species. They should never be introduced into a biologically immature aquarium. Even so, they require regular 25% to 50% weekly water changes.

The breeding habits of this particular species have never been recorded, and to date no captive breeding program has yet been initiated.

Juvenile Botia Lohachata will eat most prepared foods and should be fed small portions several times a day. Older specimens sometimes become finicky eaters and can be fed tubifex, blackworms, small snails, etc. to augment their diet.

Juvenile Botia lohachata are occasionally introduced with mixed botia shipments and are sometimes available when they are 1-3/4″ to 2-1/2″ in size.

Lohachata Botia Loach (Botia lohachata)

Minimum Tank Size: 30 gallons
Care Level: Moderate
Temperament: Semi Aggressive
Aquarium Hardiness: Moderately Hardy
Water Conditions: 72-86° F, KH 8-12, pH 6.0-7.5
Max Size: 5″
Color Form: Black, White, Yellow
Diet: Omnivore
Compatibility: Good community tank fish
Origin: Bangladesh, North and Northeast India
Family: Cobitidae
Lifespan: 8 – 12 years
Aquarist Experience Level: Intermediate

The Featherfin Rainbow (Iriatherina werneri) also known to tropical fish keeping enthusiasts as the Threadfin Rainbow is found between Merauke and the mouth of the Fly River in Papua New Guinea, and Lakes Kala and Bosset.  In Australia, they are found in the numerous river basins of the Cape York Peninsula, Queensland state and in the Northern Territory to the west including the Arafura wetlands of Arnhem Land.

The Featherfin Rainbow is a small, peaceful, streamlined schooling species that only grow to about 2″ in length. Males and females have different color patterns and fin shapes.  Their colors vary greatly depending on the locale where they are collected from, their diet, health, lighting, substrate color, and even their status in the school.

Featherfin Rainbow (Iriatherina werneri)

Males have a silver body with blue highlights above and orange underneath.  Mature males have long threads that extend from their dorsal and anal fins. Their fan shaped primary dorsal fin can be a combination of red, black, yellow, red, or orange.  Their second dorsal fin, anal, and pelvic fins are usually colored black to dark yellow, and their tails are either blue or clear, edged with red.  Adults also have faint vertical stripes that run along their backbone.

Female Featherfin Rainbows have transparent fins, honey colored

Featherfin Rainbow (Iriatherina werneri) female

bodies that are accented with green, and are less colorful than the males.  Wild specimens that genetically originate from different rivers are significantly different in color and fin structure.  Wild specimens are rare in the aquarium trade.

Featherfin Rainbows are a schooling species that are found in grassy freshwater swamps, slow moving streams, clear water billabongs and freshwater lagoons. They are most commonly collected along the banks of heavily vegetated areas in relatively shallow waters that are associated with lily pads.

Juveniles will often form into large groups with the females, where they congregate around fallen branches and shoreline vegetation.

In an aquarium environment, Featherfin Rainbows should be kept in a densely planted aquarium of at least 30 gallon capacity with a dark sand or fine gravel substrate, some floating plants to diffuse lighting, a few river rocks, and some driftwood roots.  These fish do best in a species only tank with at least 6 or 7 of their own kind.  They are easy to keep but prefer little to no current in their tank and are sensitive to swings in water chemistry.  They should only be introduced into biologically mature aquariums.

The Featherfin Rainbow has been bred in an aquarium environment.  They prefer soft to moderately hard water that is slightly acidic (pH 5.2–7.0), at a temperature of 73–84 °F. The male courts the female by repeatedly displaying his colors while raising and lowering his front dorsal fin in front of the female.  When mating takes place, the eggs are scattered among fine leaved plants or clumps of moss, and hatch after 7 to 12 days.  The fry can easily be raised alongside the adults in a species tank if fine leaved aquatic moss like Taxiphylum is present, however the parents should be removed from the breeding tank before the eggs hatch, if no dense cover is present.

Feed the fry infusoria or other microscopic foods until they are able to eat newly hatched baby brine shrimp or finely powdered omnivore flake food.  Start them out with green water for the first few days and add paramecia.

In their natural habitat, Featherfin Rainbows feed on single celled planktonic algae, diatoms, small insects, and other plant matter.  In an aquarium environment, they do best when fed small live foods such as baby brine shrimp, small bloodworms, smaller mosquito larvae, and crushed omnivore flakes.  Like most rainbowfish, they have tiny mouths and smaller throats which can make them difficult to feed.

Iriatherina werneri are commercially bred and readily available in tropical fish keeping shops
and online at moderate prices when they are 3/4″ to 1 1/4″ in length.

Featherfin Rainbow (Iriatherina werneri)

Minimum Tank Size: 30 gallons
Care Level: Easy
Temperament: Peaceful
Water Conditions: 72-77° F, KH 7-10, pH 5.8-6.5
Max. Size: 2″
Color Form: Blue, Grey
Diet: Omnivore
Compatibility: Peaceful
Origin: Asia, Australia, New Guinea
Family: Melanotaeniidae
Life Span: 3 to 5 years
Aquarist Level: Intermediate

The Congo Dwarf Clawed Frog (Hymenochirus boettgeri) is by far the most common species of aquatic frog sold to tropical fish keeping enthusiasts in the pet trade.   They are distributed throughout the Democratic Republic of the Congo, Gabon, Cameroon, and Nigeria.

The Hymenochirus genus contains two species (Hymenochirus boettgeri and Hymenochirus curtipes) and possibly a subspecies that all look similar and share some common characteristics.

Dwarf African Frog (Hymenochirus boettgeri)

Both species are brown to gray with small spots on their backs; have flat, circular, lidless eyes that sit on the sides of their tapered heads; lack tongues, and have webbed front and rear feet.  Both H. boettgeri and H. curtipes are unusual in that they never need to leave the water, in fact they will dry out and die if they do. The major difference between the two species is that H. curtipes has a much “wartier” skin.

The Congo Dwarf Clawed Frog‘s small size and docile temperament makes it well suited for peaceful community aquariums of all sizes.  The males are slimmer than the females and have a small gland that looks like a little pimple behind both of their front legs.  Only the males are able to sing or hum to apparently attract a mate.   Mature females are a bit larger than the males, and become almost pear shaped, particularly when their abdomens are filled with eggs.

The Congo Dwarf Clawed Frog is best housed in a densely planted aquarium of at least 10 gallon capacity, with a medium gravel substrate, some driftwood or bogwood and rock work for them to hide among, and if setting up a single species biotope tank, a layer of Indian Almond Leaves on the bottom.   Because they are largely a nocturnal species, subdued lighting or floating plants along with a moderate filtration system with little to no current, and a tightly fitting tank cover to prevent escapes, is recommended.

Although the Congo Dwarf Clawed Frog can thrive in a community tank environment, some care must be taken to prevent the other fish in the tank from starving the frogs to death.

Congo Dwarf Clawed Frogs mate during what is called amplexus, which usually occurs at night after several nights of “singing courtship” by the male.

When ready to mate, the male will grasp the female around the abdomen, just in front of her hind legs.  During the mating ritual, the female does all the swimming and tows the male around until she is ready to lay her eggs, one at a time, on the surface of the water.   As the eggs are laid, the male releases sperm into the water to fertilize the eggs.  When spawning is complete, the female will become motionless, signaling the male to release her.   After a few minutes the male will get the hint and release the female.

Feeding Congo Dwarf Clawed Frogs their preferred diet of live or frozen bloodworms, tubifex, or chopped earthworms can be a task if they are kept in a community tank.  They detect their food visually by movement, and unless they are individually fed, the other fish in the tank will usually eat up their share of the food.

Because they have no teeth, they cannot chew their food; instead they aggressively strike out at their prey and piggishly gulp it down whole.  Many tropical fish keeping enthusiasts hand feed their frogs or use modified turkey basters to place the food in front of their pets.   Whichever method you use, take care not to overfeed your frogs. They will search the bottom of the tank and gorge themselves on every piece of food they can find until their bellies look like small golf balls.   It’s better to feed them every couple of days or so with just enough food to round out their bellies.

Note: Some tropical fish keeping enthusiasts report that feeding freeze dried bloodworms or tubifex has caused intestinal blockages in their frogs which is usually fatal.  Caution should be exercised.

Dwarf African Frogs are commonly available for purchase at reasonable prices when they are 1/2″ to 1-1/4″ in size.

Dwarf African Frog (Hymenochirus boettgeri)

Minimum Tank Size: 10 gallons
Care Level: Easy
Temperament: Docile
Aquarium Hardiness: Hardy
Water Conditions: 72-82° F, KH 5-8, pH 6.8-7.8
Max Size: 1½”
Color Form: Brown, Gray
Diet: Omnivore
Compatibility: Community tanks
Origin: Congo, Africa
Family: Pipidae
Life Span: 5-15 years
Aquarist Experience Level: Beginner

The Western Clawed Frog (Xenopus tropicalis) also known to tropical fish keeping enthusiasts as the Tropical Clawed Frog inhabits the tropical and subtropical rain forests of Western Africa from Senegal to Cameroon and eastern Zaire where it inhabits slow moving rivers, streams, swamps, freshwater lakes, marshes, ponds, canals, and ditches throughout their range.

They have a wide range and are found throughout Cameroon, the Ivory Coast, Burkina Faso, Benin, Equatorial Guinea, Gambia, Ghana, Guinea, Guinea Bissau, Liberia, Nigeria, Senegal, Sierra Leone, Togo, and possibly even Mali.

Because it is the only species in the Xenopus genus that has a diploid (cells with two homologous copies of each chromosome; normally one from the mother and one from the father) genome which has been sequenced, it along with it’s cousin the African Clawed Frog (Xenopus laevis), is widely bred and used in biological and genetic research.  Xenopus tropicalis have a much shorter life cycle than Xenopus laevis, grow to only 1.95″ long, and attain adulthood at only 4 months, vs. 12 months for Xenopus tropicalis.

Western Clawed Frog (Xenopus tropicalis)

Xenopus tropicalis is a medium sized species that has a flattened body, bulging eyes that are situated high on their head, short plump limbs, and fully webbed feet with horny like claws.   They have a short tentacle below each eye and a row of tubercles that run along a lateral line on their flank that begins at the eye.   They have a fine granular skin, a pale to dark brown body with small black and gray spots on the back, and a creamy white to yellowish underbelly with some darker mottling.

Western Clawed Frogs should be housed in an aquarium of at least 10 gallons with a medium size gravel substrate, some hardy aquatic plants along with some driftwood and rock work structure for them to hide among, and some floating plants to diffuse the lighting in the tank.

They require adequate filtration, but avoid any strong currents in the tank.  These frogs need a tightly fitting cover to prevent them from crawling out of their tanks. They are best kept in a single species tank with 4 or 5 others of their own kind, but they can be kept in a community environment as long as the fish are not smaller than themselves.

In the wild, Western Clawed Frogs are found underneath flat stones, tree roots, and holes in the riverbanks of shallow streams during the dry season, and when the rainy season begins, they migrate across the wet rain forest floor at night to find small pools where they can spawn.  Their spawning behavior is like that of the African Clawed Frog (Xenopus laevis) but they produce a larger number of eggs per spawn  and have a shorter (5 month) generation time.  The usually lay their eggs on plants, but they are often found floating on the water surface.

The tadpoles are generally an orange color with transparent to blackish colored tails. They have wide mouths that are used to filter zooplankton from the water, and they transform into adults when they reach about 2 inches in length.

In their natural habitat, adult Western Clawed Frogs feed on insect larvae, small fish, tadpoles, and earthworms.   In an aquarium environment, they should be feed meaty foods like live, frozen, or freeze dried bloodworms, waxworms, earthworms, tubifex, feeder fish, guppies, brine shrimp, or sinking carnivore pellets. They will also eat fish smaller than themselves. Feed them either every couple of days, or smaller portions daily.

Western Clawed Frogs are available online or from specialty tropical fish keeping shops at reasonable prices when they are about 1 1/2″ in size.

Western Clawed Frog (Xenopus tropicalis)

Minimum Tank Size: 10 gallons
Care Level: Easy
Temperament:
Aquarium Hardiness: Hardy
Water Conditions: 72-82° F, KH 5-8, pH 6.8-7.8
Max Size: 1 1/2” to 2 1/4”
Color Form: Brown, Tan
Diet: Omnivore
Compatibility: Single species or Community
Origin: Senegal, Cameroon, Zaire
Family: Pipidae
Life Span: 5-20 years
Aquarist Experience Level: Beginner

The African Clawed Frog (Xenopus laevis) is also known to tropical fish keeping enthusiasts as the Xenopus, African Clawed Toad, or African Claw Toed frog and is the only amphibian that actually has claws.   It is found in Nigeria, and from Sudan to South Africa where they are plentiful in the rivers and ponds within the southeastern portion of Sub Saharan Africa.

They are voracious predators that easily adapt to a variety of habitats.  Xenopus embryos and eggs are a popular model system for a wide variety of biological and genome sequencing studies. Some cultures also use the frog as a source of protein, an aphrodisiac, or as a fertility medicine.

African Clawed Frogs, like all members of the Pipidae family, are toothless, tongueless, scavengers that are totally aquatic.   They have three short claws on each of their hind feet which they use to tear apart their food, and unlike their cousins the Dwarf African Frog (Hymenochirus curtipes), they do not have front webbed feet.

African Clawed Frogs have no ears; instead they have lateral lines that run down their undersides and the length of their body that allow them to sense vibrations and movements in the water.   Like bullfrogs,they have sensitive digits on their front “hands” that they use for eating and detecting food.   Every season, African Clawed Frogs shed their skins, which they promptly eat.

African clawed frog (Xenopus laevis)

African Clawed Frogs are a brown to greenish grey in color and have multicolored olive gray or brown blotches on their backs.  Their undersides are a creamy white color with a yellowish tinge.  Albino specimens are relatively common and demand more attention as aquarium pets.

Male African Clawed Frogs are smaller than the females with slimmer bodies and legs, and develop glands that looks like small pink or white bumps behind their front legs. The females are plumper than the males and have a noticeable bulge above their rear legs where their eggs are located internally.

Both sexes have a cloaca where their reproductive systems empty, and their digestive and urinary wastes pass.  Both sexes are also able to make mating sounds by contracting their laryngeal muscles.  The males sound like a cricket calling underwater, while the females produce a slow ticking or rapping sound, that signals acceptance or rejection of the male’s advances.

African Clawed Frogs should be housed in a densely planted aquarium of at least 10 gallons with a medium size gravel substrate, some driftwood and rock work structure for them to hide

Albino African Clawed Frog

among, and some floating plants to diffuse the lighting in the tank.   They need adequate filtration, but avoid a strong current in the tank.  These frogs are “escape artists” that need a tightly fitting cover to prevent them from crawling out.

Because of their voracious appetite, they are best kept in a single species tank with 4 or 5 others of their own kind.   They should not be kept with fish smaller than themselves.

African Clawed Frogs lay their eggs during the rainy season from winter through spring.   After going through a mating ritual, the male clasps the female in front of the female’s back legs and squeezes her until the eggs come out.   The eggs are then fertilized outside her body.

In their natural habitat, African Clawed Frogs are voracious scavengers that crawl along the bottom eating organic wastes, small live, dead, or dying fish, tadpoles, worms, crustaceans or just about anything edible that they can fit into their mouths.

In an aquarium environment they do best with live, frozen, or freeze dried bloodworms, waxworms, earthworms, tubifex, feeder fish, guppies, brine shrimp, floating reptile sticks, and even dog or cat food.

Because African Clawed Frogs are such easily adaptable and voracious predators, they can easily become a harmful invasive species.   They are capable of traveling short distances to other bodies of water, and have been known to survive mild freezing conditions.   There are documented reports of them virtually wiping out native populations of frogs and fish by eating their fry.

*They are commonly available for purchase at reasonable prices when they are  about 1-1/2″  or over in size.

African clawed frog (Xenopus laevis)

Minimum Tank Size: 10 gallons
Care Level: Easy
Temperament: Relatively Docile
Aquarium Hardiness: Hardy
Water Conditions: 70-82° F, KH 5-8, pH 6.8-7.8
Max Size: 2”-5”
Color Form: Brown, Gray, White
Diet: Omnivore
Compatibility: Single species tanks
Origin: Nigeria, Sudan, South Africa
Family: Pipidae
Life Span: 5-25 years
Aquarist Experience Level: Beginner

• African Clawed Frogs are illegal to own, transport or sell without a permit in Arizona, California, Kentucky, Louisiana, New Jersey, North Carolina, Oregon, Virginia, Hawaii, Nevada, and Washington state.

The Dwarf African Frog (Hymenochirus curtipes) is a true aquatic species that many tropical fish keeping enthusiasts find a delightful addition to community aquariums.  They are native to the Congo region of Africa where they are found along the bottoms of shallow rivers, creeks, and ponds where they scavenge around the mud and leaf litter for organic detritus, or any living, dying, or dead animal.

Dwarf African Frogs are a social, active, slow moving, docile species that are easy to keep in a peaceful community tank setting with others of their own kind, or smaller species of fish.  They become easy prey to larger aquarium fish.

Although Dwarf African Frogs are an aquatic species, they do have lungs and must rise to the surface occasionally to breathe.   They are toothless, tongueless, completely aquatic, and will die and dry out if kept out of water for periods longer than 20 minutes.   When eating, they use their sensitive fingers and claws on their webbed feet to tear apart and suck food into their mouths.  Dwarf African Frogs have no ears.  Like fish, they have lateral lines that run down the length of their bodies that sense vibration and water movement.   As their name suggests, they are a very small diminutive species that can vary in color from almost black, to olive green, to brown with black spots, to albino.

Juvenile Dwarf African Frogs are frequently confused and sold as African Clawed Frogs (Xenopus laevis) which grow much larger and are much more aggressive towards their tank mates.

Dwarf African Frog (Hymenochirus curtipes)..

They can be differentiated by the following characteristics:

• Unlike African Clawed frogs that have flat, curved snouts; the Dwarf African frog has a pointed snout.
• Dwarf African Frogs have four webbed feet, unlike the feet of African Clawed frogs which are only webbed on their hindquarters, their front feet are not webbed and have digits like salamanders and amphibious frogs.
• African clawed frogs have their eyes situated on the top of their heads, while the eyes of Dwarf African Frogs are positioned on the sides of their head.

Dwarf African Frogs are best kept in a densely planted aquarium of at least 10 gallon capacity, with a soft sand or fine gravel substrate, some driftwood or bogwood, some rockwork for them to hide among, and a layer of fine Indian Almond Leaves
if setting up a biotope tank.  Because they are a largely nocturnal species, subdued lighting or floating plants
, a moderate filtration system with very little current, and a tightly fitting tank cover to prevent escapes, is recommended.

Although these frogs are amphibians, they are not great swimmers and they do not do well in tanks with strong currents or in deep tanks that make their journey to the surface for breathing perilous.

Breeding Dwarf African frogs is relatively easy once you have identified a pair.

• Males have small whitish or pink colored glad behind each armpit that looks like a small pimple, are skinnier and slightly smaller than the females, and make a quiet buzzing or humming sound when trying to attract females for mating.
• Females have a small bump between their legs called the cloaca where the eggs and their wast pass.  They are usually larger than the males and have a plumper body shape.  Both sexes are sexually mature at approximately 9 months.

When ready to mate, the male will start calling for a female and perform a little courtship dance.  When a willing female becomes available, he will grasp her from behind, and the pair will rapidly perform a series of somersault to the surface.  While the male remains attached to the female, she will broadcast her eggs on the surface in short spurts over a period of 1/2 to 3 or 4 hours until spawning is complete.

Dwarf African Frogs are carnivores that require meaty foods like live, frozen, or freeze dried bloodworms, tubifex, chopped earthworms, and brine shrimp.   They will also eat fish smaller than themselves.

Dwarf African Frogs are commonly available for purchase at reasonable prices when they are 1/2″ to 1-1/4″ in size.

Dwarf African Frog (Hymenochirus curtipes)..

Minimum Tank Size: 10 gallons
Care Level: Easy
Temperament: Docile
Aquarium Hardiness: Hardy
Water Conditions: 72-82° F, KH 5-8, pH 6.8-7.8
Max Size: 2½”
Color Form: Brown, Green, Tan
Diet: Omnivore
Compatibility: Community tanks
Origin: Congo, Africa
Family: Pipidae
Life Span: 5-20 years
Aquarist Experience Level: Beginner

The Long Nosed Distichodus (Distichodus Lusosso) also known to tropical fish keeping enthusiasts as the Long Snout Distichodus, is a seldom seen species that originates from Cameroon, the Republic of Congo, the Democratic Republic of Congo.

Juveniles are frequently misidentified and sold as the more common Six Banded Distichodus (Distichodus sexfasciatus) which is found in Lake Tanganyika located in Cameroon, Democratic Republic of Congo, Tanzania.

Long Nosed Distichodus (Distichodus Lusosso)

Long Nosed Distichodus are collected in large rivers and grow to a length of 15″ in the wild. Like its close relative, Distichodus sexfasciatus, the Long Nosed Distichodus has a “perch” like coloration with black vertical bars on its flanks over a yellowish body, with bright red fins. It is smaller than Distichodus sexfasciatus and more easily recognized by it’s much longer snout.

Although the Long Nosed Distichodus is generally a peaceful species, they can be unpredictable in a community tank setting with similarly sized fish. They can be kept in small groups of 5 or 6 of their own kind or when housed in a very large tank, with other large Caracins, Cyprinides like Tinfoil Barbs, Loricariids, catfish, or Bichirs.

They should never be housed with smaller or shy tankmates.

Housing a single show specimen requires at least a 55 gallon or larger tank with a sand or gravel substrate, smooth river rocks, some driftwood and hardy plants such as Bolbitis or Anubias spp.. These fish are omnivorous and will decimate almost all of the softer vegetation growing in the tank. The tank should be equipped with a good filter that provides some water flow and since they are great jumpers, a tightly fitting cover. Bi-weekly 30 to 50% water changes are needed to keep these fish in good condition.

Long Nosed Distichodus (Distichodus Lusosso) have never been bred in an aquarium environment. Although their spawning methods are unknown, they are believed to behave like other large characins by migrating at the beginning of the rainy season and spawning upriver in the submerged forest areas.

Longsnout Distichodus are largely omnivores with the majority of their diet being plant matter. In the wild they feed on a variety of soft vegetation, worms, and bottom dwelling invertebrates.

In an aquarium environment, they will eagerly accept most prepared foods, including Spirulina flakes and small omnivore pellet foods augmented with large amounts of vegetable matter. They should also be provided occasional supplements of live and frozen foods such as earthworms, tubifex, bloodworms, prawn, mussels, frozen shelled peas, blanched spinach, a piece of leaf lettuce, etc.

Because the Long Nosed Distichodus is seldom if ever available to tropical fish keeping enthusiasts and because they are so expensive when they are available, they are recommended for advanced fish keepers only. As juveniles they are quite attractive but they lose much of their color as they become adults. They are seldom available online and almost never in specialty tropical fish keeping shops at any size. When available, they command a respectable price.

Long Nosed Distichodus (Distichodus Lusosso)

Minimum Tank Size: 55 gallons
Care Level: Moderate
Temperament: Docile
Aquarium Hardiness: Moderately Hardy
Water Conditions: 72-79° F, 2-20°H, pH 6.5-7.5
Max Size: 15″
Color Form: Yellow, Black
Diet: Omnivore
Compatibility: Large community tanks
Origin: Cameroon, Republic of Congo, Democratic Republic of Congo
Family: Citharinidae
Life Span: 9-12 years
Aquarist Experience Level: Advanced

The Chinese High Fin Banded Shark (Myxocyprinus asiaticus) is also known to tropical fish keeping enthusiasts as the Chinese Banded Shark, Chinese Sailfin Sucker, Banded Loach, High Fin Loach, Sailfin Sucker, Topsail Sucker, Asian Sucker, Chinese Sucker, Wimple Carp, Hilsa Herring, Asian Zebra High Fin Shark, Chinese Emperor, Siamese Sucker, Chinese Banded Shark , and Chinese Zebra High Fin Shark.

Regardless of it’s many common names, they have no relationship to actual sharks other than that they are fish.

Chinese High Fin Banded Shark (Myxocyprinus asiaticus) are one of only two known suckers that are found in Asia, the other being the Siberian Cotostomus rotratus. They originate from the highly aerated mountain streams in the Yangtze River of China and despite their size (up to 4’6″ in length) are popular community tank fish. Because of pollution and over collection for the aquarium trade, the Chinese High Fin Banded Shark has been placed on the endangered species list and is a state protected species in China.

Chinese High High Fin Banded Shark (Myxocyprinus asiaticus)

Juvenile Myxocyprinus asiaticus have light to white bodies with three dark brown to black slanting bands that veer towards the rear of the fish and a high triangular dorsal fin that extends to the rear of the anal fin. Their colors change with their moods and as they grow into adulthood, usually around 12 to 14″ in length, they lose their white stripes and their bodies become more elongated, losing their distinctive high dorsal fin.

During the breeding season, adult males can be distinguished from the females by their more reddish coloration. Adult females become almost a dark purple in color and develop a broad vertical reddish area along their bodies.

Chinese High Fin Banded Sharks have thick fleshy lips with small papillae and a single row of pharyngeal teeth. They are docile, slow moving bottom dwellers that make perfect community tank residents and although they can be kept as individuals, they are frequently kept in small shoals in an aquarium environment. Because they are slow growing and long lived (up to 25 years) they will eventually require a large aquarium to keep them healthy.

Chinese High Fin Banded Shark are best kept in at least a 55 gallon aquarium with a sandy or fine gravel substrate that is densely planted and aquascaped with some driftwood or bogwood, and some rocks if desired. They can tolerate a wide range of temperature variations but because they are subject to abrupt changes in water quality and highly susceptible to nitrates; good aeration, regular partial water changes, and a good filtration system is necessary to keep these fish healthy and happy.

In nature, Chinese High Fin Banded Sharks migrate into the relatively fast flowing, shallow headwaters of the Yangtze River to spawn but as of this date, almost nothing is known about the breeding of the Myxocyprinus asiaticus other than it is believed that their breeding habits are similar to that of Cotostomus cotostomus.

The Chinese High Fin Banded Shark is easy to feed. In their natural habitat and in the aquarium, they are constantly on the move over the bottom searching for food. They can be fed a variety of foods such as brine shrimp (which makes the orange flecks in the fish’s coloration more pink), live, fresh or frozen bloodworms, tubifex, prawn, earthworms, insects, crustaceans, small molluscs, annelids, algae, along with a quality sinking omnivore pellet or flake. If they should stop eating, it is usually due to water quality. Perform a water change and begin feeding them live foods only until they resume eating normally.

The Chinese High Fin Banded Shark (Myxocyprinus asiaticus) is not commonly available to tropical fish keeping enthusiasts however, they can be occasionally purchased from specialty fish shops or online at moderate prices, as juveniles.

Chinese High High Fin Banded Shark (Myxocyprinus asiaticus)

Minimum Tank Size: 55 gallon
Care Level: Moderate
Temperament: Docile
Aquarium Hardiness: Moderately Hardy
Water Conditions: 65-82° F, 36 – 357 ppm, pH 6.0-8.0
Max Size: 4′ 6″
Color Form: Brown, White
Diet: Omnivore
Compatibility: Large community tanks
Origin: China
Family: Catostomidae
Life Span: 25+ years
Aquarist Experience Level: Intermediate

The Electric Blue Jack Dempsey (Cichlasoma octofasciatum) also known scientifically as Archocentrus octofasciatus, Nandopsis octofasciatum, or Rocio octofasciata is found in northern and Central America from the Papaloapan River in southern Mexico to the Ulua River in Honduras.

Although it has become somewhat more common in tropical fish keeping shops, it is a somewhat rare natural variant of Nandopsis octofasciatum.

Electric Blue Jack Dempseys are aggressive carnivores that live in the warm, murky, slow moving waters of their range and prefer soft substrates with plenty of places to hide and ambush their prey.  They are aggressive diggers.

Electric Blue Jack Dempsey (Cichlasoma octofasciatum)

The Electric Blue Jack Dempsey is a smaller and less aggressive counterpart of the common Jack Dempsey cichlid.   It is a slightly elongated, laterally compressed, brilliantly colored species that has a base color of electric blue to gray, mottled with iridescent blue to blue/green spots that give it a spectacular appearance, especially when breeding.  The dorsal fin is lined in red. The dorsal and anal fins of the males are exceptionally pointed, and are often long enough to reach the middle of the caudal fin.  Mature males can also exhibit a nuchal hump.

Females are shorter, more rounded, and have fan shaped caudal fins.  They are also attractively colored with a deep green blue base color, that is covered with lighter colored flecks or spots and vertical bands down the flanks.  The bottom lower portion of the face on the females will always be colored blue.

In an aquarium environment, Electric Blue Jack Dempseys need at least a 55 gallon tank with a sandy or fine gravel substrate, some rock work, and some driftwood roots or bogwood for them to hide among.   Because of their proclivity for aggressive digging, only artificial plants, plants like Java Fern that are rooted to the decor, or other hardy potted plants should be used in their tank to set up designated territories.  They are highly territorial and will eat any smaller fish that they can swallow.  Although they are very tolerant of water temperatures, good filtration and frequent water changes are a must for this species

All Jack Dempseys are exceptionally prolific parents once a pair has formed, and Electric Blue Jack Dempseys are no exception.  Although proven pairs can breed in most water conditions; neutral soft to medium hard highly oxygenated water, at a temperature of 78-82°F, and a pH of 7.0 is recommended.

They are open breeders and will dig a pit or burrow into the substrate where they will lay up to 500  eggs.  The pair will ferociously guard their eggs and their offspring until they are ready to fend for themselves.  Once a pair has successfully mated, they will continue to spawn and produce up to several hundred offspring on a regular basis.

Neutral water with soft to medium hardness, a pH of approximately 7.0, and temperatures of  is recommended.

The Electric Blue Jack Dempsey is a carnivorous species that will eat most prepared and frozen foods, including high quality Cichlid pellets, bloodworms, brine shrimp, ghost shrimp, crickets, earthworms, tubifex, ocean plankton and other live or frozen foods, including any small fish they can fit into their mouths.  Feed them a couple of small portions a day rather than one large portion.  An occasional “treat” of blanched vegetables or a vegetable based flake food will also benefit these fish.

Although the Electric Blue Jack Dempsey is not common to tropical fish keeping enthusiasts, they are occasionally available for purchase at a size of 1-1/2″ to 2″.

Electric Blue Jack Dempsey (Cichlasoma octofasciatum)

Minimum Tank Size: 55 gallons
Care Level: Easy
Temperament: Aggressive
Aquarium Hardiness: Very Hardy
Water Conditions: 71.6-86° F, KH 5-12, pH 6.5-8.0
Max. Size: 10 ″
Color Form: Blue, Green
Diet: Carnivore
Compatibility: Single species tank
Origin: Central America
Family: Cichlidae
Lifespan: 8-12 years
Aquarist Experience Level: Beginner

The Endler’s Livebearer (Poecilia wingei) is believed to be endemic to two coastal lagoons in northeast Venezuela but was originally discovered by Franklyn F. Bond in 1937 and later rediscovered by Professor John A. Endler in Laguna de Patos, Cumana.

Laguna de Patos was originally a brackish water lake that was cut off from the ocean by a sandbar.   Over time the chemistry of the lake was altered by freshwater runoff, turning it into a very warm freshwater lake with hard green water, caused by high concentrations of algae.   Because of water pollution caused by a garbage dump that was built adjacent to Laguna de Patos, wild Endler’s Livebearers were believed to be extinct however, several wild varieties have been discovered during the past 15 years.

Class K Endler’s Livebearer (Poecilia wingei)

Because of their small size, the Endler’s Livebearer is not suitable for a general community tank.   If you plan to breed them, keep them in a tank with conspecifics. They are compatible with small, peaceful species such as dwarf corydoras, small rainbowfish such as Iratherina werneri or Pseudomugil sp. and the smaller peaceful tetras.   Avoid keeping them with common guppies or they will readily crossbreed.   Several females should be kept together to prevent bullying and territorial disputes.

The Endler’s Livebearer should be kept in a densely planted aquarium of at least 20 gallons with a sandy or fine gravel substrate, a few river rock, a small piece of driftwood, and some floating plants.    Java Fern, Java Moss, or other hardy plants make a good choice for the hard water conditions these fish prefer.   These fish are extremely active and produce very little waste, so a powerful filtration system with strong water flow is not necessary. They are very tolerant of changing water conditions and make a good starter fish for beginning tropical fish keeping enthusiasts.

The Endler’s Livebearer is extremely prolific and almost too easy to breed in an aquarium environment.  In fact if you’re not interested in breeding them, purchase only males.

Several females should be kept with each male to prevent too much harassment, and plenty of live plants should be placed in the breeding tank for the females to retreat to when being pursued. The males will be constantly chasing the females, spreading their fins, and quivering in front of them. Other than that, breeding them is the same as breeding other live bearers.

The Endler’s Livebearer will produce a new brood every 23 to 24 days and depending on the size and age of the female, the brood can be anywhere from 5 to 30 young.   The adults seldom eat their young, but most breeders remove gravid females to a separate brooding tank to allow her to give birth without the constant attentions of the males.  The fry are relatively large and will immediately accept powdered or finely crushed flake food, and newly hatched brine shrimp.  The young should be fed 2 to 3 times a day, and will grow very quickly. Within 3 to 5 weeks, the males will begin to show their adult coloration. Females will be able to produce offspring at 2 months.

Endler’s Livebearers are omnivores that feed on zoobenthos and detritus in the wild.  In an aquarium environment they should be fed algae based and meaty foods. An omnivore flake food, with occasional offerings of live, frozen, or freeze dried bloodworms, brine shrimp, blackworms, mosquito larvae, or tubifex will keep them healthy.

Because of the gaining popularity of Endler’s Livebearers (Poecilia wingei) with tropical fish keeping enthusiasts, and the fact that they are such prolific breeders that will readily crossbreed with other guppy species; a classification system was created to more easily identify their origin for hobbyists.

The three classifications are listed below:

• Class N: Wild caught Endler’s Livebearers that can be traced to their native Venezuelan waters.
• Class P: Fish of unknown origin that appear to be an Endler’s Livebearer. (Based on body shape, size, and color)
• Class K: Crossbred or hybridized Endler’s Livebearers.

Although the majority of Endler’s Livebearers sold to tropical fish keeping enthusiasts now fall into the K classification, during the past 15 years several “new” colorful wild varieties have been discovered; a few of which are identified below:

Black Green Endler’s Livebearer (Poecilia wingei)

Black Peacock Endler’s Livebearer (Poecilia wingei)

Blue Neon Endler’s Livebearer (Poecilia wingei)

Blue Snake Endler’s Livebearer (Poecilia wingei)

Blue Star Endler’s Livebearer (Poecilia wingei)

Bottom Sword Endler’s Livebearer (Poecilia wingei)

El Silverado Endler’s Livebearer (Poecilia wingei)

El TigreLivebearer (Poecilia wingei)

Flame Tail Endler’s Livebearer (Poecilia wingei)

Green Chest Endler’s Livebearer (Poecilia wingei)

Green Top Sword Endler’s Livebearer (Poecilia wingei)

Laguna Green Endler’s Livebearer (Poecilia wingei)

Laguna Orange Endler’s Livebearer (Poecilia wingei)

Lime Green Endler’s Livebearer (Poecilia wingei)

Mint Top Yellow Sword Endler’s Livebearer (Poecilia wingei)

Multicolor Endler’s Livebearer (Poecilia wingei)

Orange Body Endler’s Livebearer (Poecilia wingei)

Orange Spotted Endler’s Livebearer (Poecilia wingei)

Oseibo Endler’s Livebearer (Poecilia wingei)

Peacock Endler’s Livebearer (Poecilia wingei)

Rainbow Endler’s Livebearer (Poecilia wingei)

Red Body Endler’s Livebearer (Poecilia wingei)

Red Body Yellow Top Endler’s Livebearer (Poecilia wingei)

Slash Orange Endler’s Livebearer (Poecilia wingei)

Most Endler’s Livebearers offered for sale are Class K specimens (below) that are approximately 1/2″ to 1″ in size.

Minimum Tank Size: 20 gallons
Care Level: Easy
Temperament: Slow Moving, Peaceful
Aquarium Hardiness: Very Hardy
Water Conditions: 75-86° F, KH 15-35, pH 7.0-8.5
Max. Size: 1″
Color Form: Black, Green, Orange, Red
Diet: Omnivore
Compatibility: Small single species tank
Origin: northeast Venezuela, Aquacultured
Family: Poeciliidae
Lifespan: 2-5 years
Aquarist Experience Level: Beginner

The Green Terror Cichlid (Aequidens rivulatus) is a South American river cichlid found primarily in the Rio Tumbes in Peru, and the Rio Esmeraldas in Ecuador.

Green Terror Cichlids are collected from over a variety of substrates that include mud, sand, gravel, large river rocks, and even thickly layered beds of dead leaves.  They are found in both rapid and slow moving waters, at temperatures of 68 to 80 degrees, and in pH conditions of 7.0 to 8.4.

Juvenile Green Terror Cichlids are usually collected along the shallows and backwater areas of the rivers, while adults prefer the deeper portions.

The Green Terror is a gorgeous cichlid that belies it’s common name.   They are relatively peaceful and known for becoming quite friendly with their keepers.

Green Terror Cichlids have a greenish white to olive green body that is speckled an iridescent blue green, with electric blue spots on the chin area, dorsal and caudal fins that are edged in an orange to reddish pink color, and a black spot at mid body.   The pectoral fins are usually colored orange or yellow, with some specimens appearing to have a slight turquoise hue on the body. Mature males have a nuchal hump and longer flowing tails than the females, but both sexes display the black spot at mid body.   Female Green Terror cichlids are smaller than males and although they have the same color pattern, are not as brightly colored. They tend to be more of a olive drab color.

Green Terror Cichlids do best in an aquarium of at least 55 gallon capacity with a sandy or fine gravel substrate, rock work formed into caves, shelters and hiding spots, some driftwood roots, some hardy, tough leaved aquatic plants like Anubias and plenty of free swimming space.   These fish are active “diggers” so ensure that the plants provided are well rooted or potted.   Pristine water quality is also a requirement for these cichlids, so a good filtration system and frequent partial water changes are mandatory.  Canister filters provide excellent filtration and the water flow necessary for keeping these fish healthy.

The Green Terror is generally peaceful with other fish of similar size and disposition, but does become more territorial as it matures.

Green Terror Cichlids are open breeders that will spawn in a wide range of water conditions.   They readily pair off and although the female plays a bigger role in raising the fry, both parents aggressively guard the eggs and their offspring. Because many cross bred specimens are sold to tropical fish keeping enthusiasts as Green Terrors, the challenge for breeding them is to obtain pure breeding pair stock.   When ready to breed, the female will either lay between 300 to 400 eggs on the substrate or select and clean off a flat rock to deposit her eggs on.   Depending on water temperature, the eggs will hatch out in 2 to 3 days.

The parents will move the newly hatched fry into fanned out pits in the substrate and usher them around until they become free swimming in about 5 days.   Feed the fry newly hatched brine shrimp or crushed flake food until they are able to care for themselves.   The parents will continue to care for the fry for several weeks unless they are removed from the tank.   These fish are prolific breeders and will spawn about every two weeks if the young are removed from the aquarium, so make sure you have a place to keep them.

Green Terror Cichlids have a voracious appetite and will eat almost anything placed into their tank.   Although they prefer meaty foods, they will eat fresh, frozen, freeze dried, flakes or Cichlid pellets including house flies, small earthworms, small mysis shrimp, ghost shrimp, bloodworms, krill, tubifex, ocean plankton, brine shrimp, etc.

Aequidens rivulatus is common in the aquarium trade and available for purchase to tropical fish keeping enthusiasts as juveniles when they are 2″ to 3″ in length, or as adults at reasonable prices.

Minimum Tank Size: 55 gallons
Care Level: Moderate
Temperament: Semi-aggressive
Aquarium Hardiness: Hardy
Water Conditions: 72-80° F, KH 9-20, pH 6.5-8.0
Max Size: Males 10-12″, Females 7-8?
Color Form: Blue, Green, White
Diet: Omnivore
Compatibility: Large community tanks
Origin: Ecuador, Peru
Family: Cichlidae
Life Span: 15 years
Aquarist Experience Level: Intermediate

The Nicaraguense Cichlid (Herichthys nicaraguense) correctly identified as Hypsophrys nicaraguensis, is endemic to the Atlantic slope of Central America from the San Juan drainage, including Lake Nicaragua (in Costa Rica and Nicaragua), to the Matina River drainage in Costa Rica.

The Nicaraguense Cichlid is also known to tropical fish keeping enthusiasts as the Moga, Parrot Cichlid, Nickie, Macaw Cichlid, Butterfly Cichlid and Nicaraguense.

Nicaraguense Cichlids are found in lakes and in rivers with slow to moderate water movement.   Although juveniles eat mainly aquatic insects in the wild; adults prefer feeding on seeds, leaves, snails, bottom detritus, and small mollusks.

Nicaraguense Cichlid (Herichthys nicaraguense)

The Nicaraguense Chiclid is a stocky, compact species with an extremely curved head and a downward positioned mouth.  Their bodies are a gold to copper color, with an iridescent greenish blue head, a dark line that runs along the middle of the body, and a large dark black splotch in the center.  The fins are covered with numerous black spots with the dorsal fin edged in red.

Males have a dark edging on their scales that give them a reticulated appearance.   Males are larger than the females, have a much more pointed dorsal fin, and develop a hump on their head which often becomes permanent in aquarium specimens.  Females are generally more brightly colored than the males.  Several color variations exist that are dependent on where the specimens are collected from.

Wild caught specimens are always more vividly colored than captive bred specimens.

Nicaraguense Chiclids have been known to cross breed with Convict Cichlids (Amatitlania nigrofasciata) with the offspring being fertile for at least 4 generations.

The Nicaraguense Chiclid is a relatively peaceful species that require at least a 55 gallon aquarium with a sand or fine gravel substrate, plenty of rocks and pieces of slate formed into caves, and some driftwood for them to hide among.   Some hardy well rooted or potted plants should also be included.   These fish need a good filtration system with good water movement to keep them healthy.   Canister filters are a good choice for these fish.  Because they are intolerant of nitrate and phosphate build ups and sensitive to pH changes; they require weekly 20 to 25% water changes, especially if housed in a species tank or with other cichlids.

Nicaraguense Cichlids are diggers and “pit spawners”.  During spawning, they will occasionally eat any soft leaved plants in the aquarium, so it’s a good idea to decorate the tank with only hardy plants.

Nicaraguense Chiclids are egg layers that in the wild spawn in pits that are fanned out of the substrate.   The best way to develop a pair is to raise a group of juveniles together and allow them to pair off naturally.   In an aquarium environment, even though they are pit spawners, it is best to set up a number of caves and hiding places for the pair to deposit their eggs.

Unlike cave spawners whose eggs are adhesive, their transparent eggs are non-adhesive and will lay in a loose conglomeration of clusters in the bottom of the cave or in the pit that they fan out.   The eggs are only about 1/16th of an inch in diameter and will hatch out in about 3 days in water at a temperature of 79° F.   The small larvae become free swimming in about 4 to 5 days and can immediately be fed newly hatched brine shrimp.

Nicaraguense Chiclids are good parents, so the fry can be left with the parents who take turns caring for both the eggs and the young.

Nicaragua Cichlids are omnivores that will generally eat all kinds of live, frozen, flake, and freeze dried foods. A high quality cichlid pellet diet supplemented with blood worms, snails, chopped earthworms, brine shrimp, mysis shrimp and vegetables such as blanched spinach or zucchini will keep them healthy. Feed them several small portions a day in lieu of one large portion, and avoid giving them warm blooded animal meats like beef heart or chicken.

Nicaraguense Chiclids are available online and from most tropical fish keeping shops as juveniles and adults. They are usually moderately priced unless purchased as wild stock.

Nicaraguense Cichlid (Herichthys nicaraguense)

Minimum Tank Size: 55 gallons
Care Level: Moderate
Temperament: Semi-aggressive
Aquarium Hardiness: Very Hardy
Water Conditions: 74.0 to 80.0° F, 8 – 15 dGH, pH 6.5-7.5
Max. Size: 9.8 ″
Color Form: Gold, Blue
Diet: Omnivore
Compatibility: OK with peaceful cichlids
Origin: Costa Rica and Nicaragua
Family: Cichlidae
Lifespan: 10-15 years
Aquarist Experience Level: Beginner

The Cigar Shark (Leptobarbus rubripinna) is a migratory species that is also known to tropical fish keeping enthusiasts as the Mad fish, Red Finned Cigar Shark, or Saltan Fish.

The Cigar Shark is a pelagic schooling species that is found in the Mekong, Chao Phraya, and Mae Khlong river drainages throughout Viet Nam, Cambodia, Laos, and Thailand where it mainly inhabits the larger rivers and streams of it’s range.   Although they do not adapt well to larger impondments, they are found in some lakes like Bueng Boraphet reservoir in central western Thailand

Cigar Shark (Leptobarbus rubripinna

Adult specimens are usually found in the deeper pools or slower moving stretches of the river, and move into the faster flowing water to feed.

During the rainy season, they migrate into the floodplains and flooded forests where spawning takes place.  During the months of January and February, Cigar Shark migrate upstream in the Mekong River and return during the months of May and June.

Cigar Shark feed on insects, vegetable matter, and a number of fruits, some of which are poisonous.  They are called “Mad Fish” because they sometimes become intoxicated after eating the seeds from a certain tree in Asia.   Although their flesh can be poisonous to humans, they are still harvested from subsistence and commercial fisheries.

Except for public aquariums, Cigar Sharks grow too large for most tropical fish keeping enthusiasts to properly care for.   In the wild they can grow to over 39″ in length, and even in an aquarium environment will grow to 24″ or more.   Although Juvenile specimens can be temporarily housed in smaller aquariums, even a single specimen when fully grown would require at least a 180 gallon or larger aquarium to be kept properly.

Juvenile Cigar Shark (Leptobarbus rubripinna

Juvenile Cigar Sharks are mostly silver with a horizontal black and green stripe that runs from the gill plate to the base of the caudal fin, which they lose as adults.   Their anal and dorsal fins are translucent with a reddish tinge and the tail is red with slight black edging.   As they become adults, they develop relatively large, metallic like, light brown scales with darker edges, and dark red pectoral and anal fins, with red edges on the caudal fin.

If you have the means to keep a shoal of Cigar Sharks, tank decor is not critical however, they need an enormous amount of open swimming space, pristine water quality, a moderate amount of water movement, and high dissolved oxygen content in their system to thrive.   A tank set up to mimic a naturally flowing river system with various sizes of gravel, river rock, and small boulders along with some driftwood branches would be an ideal environment for this species.

They can be housed in a community environment with other relatively peaceful larger species but because they are intolerant of the accumulation of organic wastes, they need one or preferably two large external canister filters set up to provide a unidirectional water flow needed to maintain the water quality, water movement, and oxygen levels that are required.   Their aquarium should also be provided with a tight fitting cover to prevent them from jumping out of the tank.   Cigar Sharks are skittish and powerful jumpers.

To date, the Cigar Shark has not yet been bred in an aquarium environment.

Although Cigar Sharks are primarily vegetarians and non aggressive, they will eat small fish if they can fit them into their mouths.   Feed them live, frozen, dry or freeze dried foods such as chopped earthworms, mysis shrimp, river prawn, Krill, blanched spinach, omnivore pellets, etc.

Cigar Sharks are rarely available to tropical fish keeping enthusiasts however they can be special ordered from specialty importers online or from specialty fish shops.   Research this species before purchasing one.   It is unfortunate that this species grows far too large for most home aquariums, yet they are still sold.   Do your research before you decide on purchasing one.

Cigar Shark (Leptobarbus rubripinna)

Minimum Tank Size: 180 gallons
Care Level: Moderate
Temperament: Non-aggressive
Aquarium Hardiness: Hardy
Water Conditions: 73-79° F, dGH 2 – 20, pH 6.0-7.5
Max Size: 24″
Color Form: Silver, Red
Diet: Omnivore
Compatibility: Large shoals, very large community tanks
Origin: Thailand, Laos, Cambodia, Vietnam
Family: Cyprinidae
Life Span: 15 years
Aquarist Experience Level: Intermediate

The Apollo Shark (Luciosoma spilopleura) is a beautiful, fast moving, torpedo shaped Cprinid that is found in the Malay peninsula, Thailand, Borneo, Brunei, and Sumatra.
Also known to tropical fish keeping enthusiasts as the Apollo Sharkminnow, Apollo Sharks are active surface swimmers that inhabit clear fast flowing forest rivers and streams with rocky, stone, or gravel bottoms that posses a high level of dissolved oxygen.

They are a skittish, shoaling species related to Rasboras, that grow quite large in their natural environment and require a lot of swimming area, and although they are active predators, when kept in shoals, they make superb additions to community tanks with large cichlids and catfish.

Apollo Shark (Luciosoma spilopleura)

The Apollo Shark has an elongated, cylindrical body with short whiskers and a pointed snout which is quite different from other Cyprinids.  They have a forked caudal fin and a dorsal fin that is set far back on their body.

Above the dark lateral line that extends from the nose through the caudal fin, healthy adult specimens are colored an almost olive green.   Below the lateral line, they are a silvery white color.

Juveniles are more silvery colored.   Except for the females having a more rounded belly, the sexes are indistinguishable.

Apollo Sharks need to be housed in a tightly covered aquarium of at least 125 gallon capacity that has plenty of swimming area, high levels of dissolved oxygen, and a good deal of water movement.  Their tank should have a gravel or rocky substrate with a background of aquatic plants and some minimal driftwood or bogwood decorations.  The greatest need for these fish is a lot of free swimming space.   Tank decorations that clutter up their swimming areas should be avoided.

Although Apollo Sharks are active predators that spend most of their time on or near the surface of the tank, on occasion they will forage on the bottom.  In a community tank setting, they are peaceful when housed in small shoals of 6 to 12 fish, but do not do well when kept individually or in small groups of 2 to 3 specimens.   They are best kept with other robust similar sized species such as Tinfoil Barbs and Bala Sharks.   Smaller fish could be viewed as food.

Apollo Sharks are energetic swimmers that are easily startled and because they occupy the uppermost portion of the water column, a tightly fitting tank cover is mandatory for these expert jumpers.   Canister filters and powerheads are also a good choice for this species to ensure the pristine water quality and high oxygen levels they require in their tank.

There are no documented cases of Apollo Sharks being bred in an aquarium environment. Most specimens in the aquarium hobby are wild caught.

Apollo Sharks are easy to feed and will eat all sorts of fresh, frozen, or freeze dried foods.   Although they will eagerly eat fish smaller than themselves, they can be fed a diet of bloodworms, frozen fish, mosquito larvae, vitamin enriched brine shrimp, mysis shrimp, chopped worms, etc.   Larger specimens will eat chopped prawns, Krill, ghost shrimp, etc.   Over time they will also accept slow sinking omnivore pellets and flake foods.

Feed these fish either one large serving a day or smaller quantities twice a day.   If you feed them frozen fish or beefheart, feed it to them 2 or 3 days apart.

Apollo Sharks are not common in the aquarium trade but tropical fish keeping enthusiasts can occasionally purchase them from specialty fish shops and online at modest prices when they are anywhere from 3″ to 8″ in length.

Apollo Shark (Luciosoma spilopleura)

Minimum Tank Size: 125 gallon
Care Level: Moderate
Temperament: Semi-aggressive
Aquarium Hardiness: Hardy
Water Conditions: 75-82° F, dGH 2 – 20, pH 6.0-7.5
Max Size: 10″
Color Form: Green, Silver
Diet: Omnivore
Compatibility: Large shoals, large community tanks
Origin: Southeast Asia, Borneo
Family: Cyprinidae
Life Span: 14+ years
Aquarist Experience Level: Intermediate

The Fire Eel (Mastacembelus erthrotaenia) is found in Cambodia, Indonesia, Laos, Malaysia, Thailand, Vietnam, India, Burma, Sri Lanka, Borneo and Sumatra.

Fire Eels are voracious nocturnal predators that usually inhabit slow to briskly moving rivers with fine sediment bottoms and spend most of their daylight hours buried in the substrate with only their snouts visible.   They emerge at dusk to forage on small fishes, worms, and crustaceans.

The Fire Eel is a member of the Mastacembelidae family that is also known to tropical fish keeping enthusiasts as spiny eels.    Like the Tire Track Eel and Peacock Eel, they get their name from the many small dorsal spines that occur just before their dorsal fin.

Fire Eel (Mastacembelus erthrotaenia)

Although the Fire Eel is not a true eel, they have an extremely elongated, laterally compressed body with a distinctive pointed snout and an under-slung mouth.   Their body color is a dark brown to gray that becomes a lighter shade at the belly.

The body is marked with several bright red lateral stripes and spots that vary in intensity depending on the age and general condition of the specimen.

In juveniles, the markings are yellow to amber colored and in adults, they are usually a bright deep red color.   The pectoral, anal, and dorsal fins are also often edged in red.

In their natural environment, Fire Eels grow to almost 4 feet in length however, in an aquarium environment, they seldom exceed 22 inches in length, even in a large tank.

Because of their size, Fire Eels should be housed in at least a 125 gallon densely planted aquarium, with a sandy or fine gravel substrate, some
floating plants to diffuse the lighting, plenty of rocks structured into caves, and plenty of bogwood or driftwood
roots for places to hide.  Their burrowing habits will quickly rearrange the scenery in your tank, so unpotted plants are not a good idea with these fish.  Potted plants will provide them with places to hide and are less likely to be uprooted.

Fire Eels need some water movement and a good filtration system which makes canister filters a good choice for this species.  A tightly fitting tank cover is also necessary for these escape artists.

Many tropical fish keeping enthusiasts keep Fire Eels in a community environment with fish of similar or larger size without any problems, however they are aggressive and intolerant to their own kind.  This is undoubtedly why there are no documented cases of Fire Eels being bred in an aquarium environment.

Fire Eels are carnivores that prefer live foods such as earthworms, black worms, small fish, prawn, some plant matter or detritus, and other small crustaceans.   Juveniles can be weaned off of live foods and over time will often accept frozen or freeze dried krill, ocean plankton, lancefish, and even prepared tablet foods however, larger adults need live foods to sustain them.

Fire Eels are available for purchase online and from specialty tropical fish keeping shops when they are 4″ to 8″ in length.

Fire Eel (Mastacembelus erthrotaenia)

Minimum Tank Size: 125 gallons
Care Level: Moderate
Temperament: Semi-aggressive
Aquarium Hardiness: Hardy
Water Conditions: 75-82° F, 5 – 12°H, pH 6.0-7.0
Max. Size: 36″
Color Form: Tan, Red
Diet: Carnivore
Compatibility: Single species tank or community
Origin: Southeast Asia
Family: Mastacembelidae
Lifespan: 20 years
Aquarist Experience Level: Intermediate

The Peacock Eel (Macrognathus siamensis) is found in the Mekong, Chao Phraya, Maeklong, river basins in Peninsular and Southeast Thailand.  They are also commonly known to tropical fish keeping enthusiasts as the Spot-Finned Spiny Eel, Peacock Spiny Eel, Striped Peacock Eel, or Siamese Spiny Eel.

Peacock Eel (Macrognathus siamensis)

Depending on where they are collected from, Peacock Eels are a light brown color with a thin pale yellow strip that runs from the eye to the base of the tail.  They generally have three to six eye spots along the upper rear portion of the body that run along the base of the dorsal fin which lends to their common name “Peacock Eel”.

Peacock Eels have an elongated body, a pointed snout, with both the dorsal and anal fins extending back to their relatively small caudal fin.  Although females are believed to have fuller bodies, it is virtually impossible to distinguish between sexes, which is probably why they have not been successfully bred in an aquarium environment.

Peacock Eels are a largely nocturnal species that inhabit slow moving, thickly vegetated areas of rivers and still waters of flooded fields.   Except for their heads, they bury themselves into the sandy or silty substrate during daylight hours and come out at night to feed on worms, insect larvae, and other small crustaceans.

Because Peacock Eels are sensitive to changes in water quality, they are generally suggested for more experienced tropical fish keeping enthusiasts.   In an aquarium environment, they are usually quite shy and take a couple of weeks before they begin to eat on a regular basis.  They require pristine water conditions and are sensitive to parasites, fungal infections, and the copper based medications used to cure these diseases.

Peacock Eels do best in a well oxygenated 35 gallon or larger tank with soft, to medium hard water.   Because under gravel filters increase the oxygen content and reduce the amount of waste in the tank, many tropical fish keeping enthusiasts prefer using them when housing Peacock Eels.

Although Peacock Eels do well in a tank with a medium to small grain gravel substrate over an under gravel filter; a sandy substrate with a canister filter that provides a water turnover of 10 to 15 times per hour is preferable.   Regardless of which filtration system you use, a tight fitting lid is mandatory for these escape artists.

Since Peacock Eels are more active in a dimly lit aquarium, it’s a good idea to provide them with plenty of floating plants to diffuse the light in the tank.    They enjoy burrowing in the bottom, so a sand or fine gravel substrate is recommended along with lots of rocky caves, driftwood roots, and potted plants for them to hide among.  Many tropical fish keeping enthusiasts just place a piece of PVC pipe into their tank for them to retreat into, in lieu of a rocky cave.

If you give them multiple places for them to hide, they feel safer and be more visible during daylight hours.  Macrognathus siamensis is a shy, peaceful species that gets along well in a community tank setting with a wide variety of fish larger than themselves including their own kind, providing they are of the same approximate size.

Peacock Eels are spiny eels, and although they have not been bred in an aquarium environment, it is presumed that they breed in the same manner as other spiny eels.   Emulating the flooding conditions encountered during the rainy season in their natural habitat is believed to stimulate breeding behavior.   Feeding a pair higher quality live foods and providing them with a continuous influx of clean water is also believed to promote breeding behavior.

If a pair decides to spawn, they will exhibit a type of courtship ritual where they chase each other around in circles until breeding actually occurs.  Their sticky eggs are deposited among floating plants and will normally hatch withing 3 or 4 days.  The fry are free swimming in a few more days and can be fed baby brine shrimp.   Like their parents, the fry are susceptible to fungal infections and will require frequent regular water changes.   A layer of Indian Almond Leaves in the breeding tank will aid considerably in the prevention of disease.

Peacock Eels are nocturnal carnivores that feed on insect larvae, crustaceans, small fishes and worms.  In an aquarium environment, all spiny eels prefer a diet of live or freshly frozen foods such as brine shrimp, earthworms, black worms, small guppies or bloodworms.

Although some spiny eels can be trained to eat freeze dried brine shrimp, Tubifex or bloodworms, don’t count on it when you purchase one.   Feed Peacock eels after you turn off the lights on their aquarium and only once or twice a week.  Many will only accept food once every two or three weeks.

The Peacock Eel is commonly available to tropical fish keeping enthusiasts online and in the aquarium trade at reasonable prices.

Peacock Eel (Macrognathus siamensis)

Minimum Tank Size: 35 gallons
Care Level: Moderate
Temperament: Shy, Peaceful
Aquarium Hardiness: Moderately Hardy
Water Conditions: 73-82° F, 6-25 dGH, pH 6.0-8.0
Max. Size: 11.9″
Color Form: Brown, Tan
Diet: Carnivore
Compatibility: Community
Origin: Southeast Asia
Family: Mastacembelidae
Lifespan: 18 years
Aquarist Experience Level: Intermediate

The Glass Catfish (Kryptopterus vitreolus) is also known to tropical fish keeping enthusiasts as the Ghost Catfish, Phantom Catfish, Ghost Glass Cat, Indian Ghost, Ghost Fish, or Glass Cat.   It is a small Asian catfish species endemic to Thailand and is the most commonly seen in tropical fish keeping circles. Kryptopterus vitreolus is found south of the Isthmus of Kra in rivers that drain into the Gulf of Thailand as well as in river basins in the Cardamom Mountains and possibly in Penang, Malaysia.

Up until 1989, the Glass Catfish (Kryptopterus vitreolus) was considered to be the same species as Kryptopterus bicirrhis, which is a larger and less frequently encountered species in the aquarium trade. Afterwards, the Ghost Catfish that was commonly seen in the aquarium trade was believed to be Kryptopterus minor but in 2013, it was determined that the Ghost Catfish was actually Kryptopterus vitreolus.

Kryptopterus minor is found solely in Borneo and is almost never, if ever available to tropical fish keeping enthusiasts in the aquarium trade.

Glass Catfish lack body pigment and are transparent.   They have a slender body, an anal fin that extends almost from the head to the forked caudal fin, two long barbels, and usually only grow to about 3″ in length.   Most of their organs are located towards the head and although they are transparent, they have an iridescent rainbow color when the light strikes them at the right angle.

Dead Glass Catfish (Kryptopterus vitreolus)

After Glass Catfish die, their bodies turn a milky white color.  There are only two other species of “glass catfish” (Kryptopterus) that have clear, transparent bodies; Kryptopterus minor and Kryptopterus piperatus (from northern Sumatra), both of which are almost never encountered in the aquarium hobby.  In Southeast Asia, the Glass Catfish is a major ingredient in making some of the salty fish sauces used in Asian cooking.

Glass Catfish are a timid, non-aggressive, mid water swimming species that prefer hiding in the darker areas of the river.  They are frequently collected while hiding under logs, elevated rock outcroppings, and in the shadows of overhanging vegetation in areas with a good amount of water movement.

In an aquarium environment, they need a densely planted tank with a lot of swimming area, a gentle amount of current, and some driftwood roots for shelter. A generous growth of aquatic plants is imperative to their well being, and floating plants should also be included in their tank to filter out bright lighting. In their natural habitat they are found in small schools, and should be kept with at least 5 or 6 of their own kind in a community tank setting with other peaceful fish of the same size. They do well with the smaller tetras, Corydoras, etc.

Glass catfish are relatively delicate and are extremely sensitive to changes in water quality and pH. They do best in soft (less than 10 ° dGH), slightly acidic (pH 6.5) water, at a temperature around 77 °F. A good quality filter that provides some water movement is necessary for this species.

Although there are reports of Glass Catfish being bred in an aquarium environment, no specifics have been documented. They are egg scatters and have been bred in outdoor ponds in Southeast Asia, primarily for the aquarium hobby.

Glass Catfish in an aquarium environment are reputedly finicky eaters however, they will accept live, frozen, or freeze dried bloodworms, tubifex, brine shrimp, and mosquito larvae. They can be weaned to accept flake foods.

Glass Catfish are available for purchase when they are approximately 1-1/4″ to 3″ in size.

Glass Catfish (Kryptopterus vitreolus)

Minimum Tank Size: 10 gallons
Care Level: Moderate
Temperament: Peaceful
Water Conditions: 75-80° F, KH 8-12, pH 6.5-7.0
Max. Size: 3″”
Color Form: Clear
Diet: Omnivore
Compatibility: Community
Origin: Thailand
Family: Siluridae
Lifespan: 3-6 years
Aquarist Experience Level: Intermediate/Advanced

The Electric Blue Acara (Andinoacara pulcher) is a stunning color variety of the Blue Acara cichlid that is native to Trinidad and Tobogo and parts of Venezuela.  The Blue Acara is found in found throughout Central and South America from Panama to Columbia and is often confused with the highly aggressive Green Terror (Andinoacara rivulatus) by tropical fish keeping enthusiasts.

Blue Acara are an adaptable species that are found in a variety of habitats, from murky still waters to flowing clear water rivers and streams.

Electric Blue Acara (Andinoacara pulcher)

The Electric Blue Acara is a color strain that has only been available in the United States since 2013.  They have the temperament of Rams and will not usually dig up the plants or rearrange the decor in your aquarium, nor will they harass other members of a community tank.

The Blue Acara has a compact, somewhat stocky body with long, flowing fins and a rounder head than similar cichlids.   Their steel blue body color can vary by locale from shades of brown, blues, to black.   Their blueish green scales give them a sparkling appearance.  Their bodies are decorated with five to eight vertical stripes and blue iridescent spots, and they posses a few horizontal green lines on the face with a distinctive black line that runs from the eye down the cheek.  The fins have a tinge of orange on the tips with some specimens having a red dorsal rim.

The Electric Blue Acara strain has a uniform iridescent blue color over the entire body of the fish as well as the fins.  Both sexes posses a bright orange trim stripe that runs along the top of their dorsal fins.  Mature males develop more pointed dorsal and anal fins, while the females have a more rounded appearance.

Electric Blue Acara are actually peaceful cichlids for their size and can be housed in a community tank environment with other species of the same size. Some good tank mates include medium sized characins,  other relatively peaceful cichlids, Corydoras catfish, and Loricariids.

Electric Blue Acara are best housed in a densely planted 55 gallon or larger aquarium with a soft, sandy or fine gravel substrate, some driftwood branches, and some floating plants to provide shade.   Wild Blue Acara are avid diggers so plants such as Anubias spp. or java fern that can be attached to the decor stand a better chance of survival.  Electric Blue Acara and their wild cousins can be quite sensitive to deteriorating water quality, so an efficient biological filter and regular water changes are mandatory.  A canister filter system is a good choice for this species.

Electric Blue Acara are great parents and become sexually mature at about 4 months of age.   They are easy to breed and unlike some other electric blue species, breed color true.

The best way to identify a pair is to buy 6 juveniles and allow them to naturally pair off.   Once you have a pair, remove the fish to a breeding tank that is set up as above with slightly soft water with a  pH 6.5-7.0 and a water temperature between 77-82°F.

Use an air powered sponge filter in the breeding tank along with lots of flat stones and broad leaved Amazon (Echinodorus sp.) type plants for potential spawning sites.

Condition the fish with live or frozen bloodworms, tubifex, chopped earthworms, brine shrimp, etc. until they begin to clean off a spawning site.  This can be a broad plant leaf, excavated pit in the substrate, or a flat rock.  The female will lay a line of eggs on the surface and the male will follow her to fertilize them.  The process continues until up to 200 eggs are spawned.

The male will guard and defend the spawning site while the female tends to the eggs which normally hatch in around 48-72 hours.  After approximately 72 hours the fry become free swimming and can fe fed microworms or baby brine shrimp.

The parents will continue to care for the fry for about two weeks after which they may spawn again.

Electric Blue Acara are carnivorous and should be fed fresh, frozen or freeze dried bloodworms, brine shrimp, earthworms, tubifex, chopped mussels, or chopped shrimp.  They will also accept most cichlid flakes or granules.

Both Blue Acara and Electric Blue Acara are available online and from specialty shops to tropical fish keeping enthusiasts in a variety of sizes from 1 1/2″ to 6″ however,  the Electric Blue variety demand much higher prices.

Electric Blue Acara (Andinoacara pulcher)

Minimum Tank Size: 55 gallons
Care Level: Moderate
Temperament: Semi-aggressive
Aquarium Hardiness: Hardy
Water Conditions: 71-82° F, KH 5-25, pH 6.0-8.0
Max. Size: 6″
Color Form: Blue, Tan
Diet: Omnivore
Compatibility: OK with peaceful like size species
Origin: Central and South America, Farm Raised
Family: Cichlidae
Lifespan: 7-10 years
Aquarist Experience Level: Beginner

The Silver Zebra Angelfish (Pterophyllum scalare) like all Pterophyllum species, originate from the Amazon River Basin, Orinoco Basin, and various other smaller rivers in the Guiana Shield in South America. They are a member of the family Cichlidae (Cichlids) and are all collectively known to tropical fish keeping enthusiasts as Angelfish.

In their natural environment, Silver Zebra Angelfish live in swamps and flooded areas around dense vegetation in either clear or silty colored water.  They are usually found among bulrushes and around underwater brush where they can quickly dart to shelter.  They are a relatively peaceful, social species that are often found swimming in large shoals.

There are three species of Pterophyllum, and are all unusually shaped for Cichlids.  They have round, laterally compressed bodies, elongated triangular dorsal and anal fins, and almost all wild specimens are striped longitudinally which provides them a modicum of camouflage.  Pterophyllum scalare is the most commonly kept species and no doubt the one most often bred in captivity. Pterophyllum altum is the second most common (usually captive bred) and Pterophyllum leopoldi is the smallest and least often found in the tropical fish keeping hobby.

All Pterophyllum species are egg layers that form monogamous pairs.  They generally deposit their eggs on a submerged log or a flattened leaf, and like other members of the cichlid family, exhibit highly developed care for their offspring.

Silver Zebra Angelfish (Pterophyllum scalare)

Most Silver Zebra Angelfish purchased in the United States are captive bred and are mostly silver in color, with black or dark brown longitudinal stripes. They posses thin fins that typically extend the entire length of their body.

Silver Zebra Angelfish are considered a community fish by most tropical fish keeping enthusiasts but because they are cichlids, they may not be compatible or as sociable with smaller species. As juveniles they will school peacefully in small shoals but as they grow larger, they will pair off and become increasingly territorial.

Silver Zebra Angelfish should be kept in a densely planted tank of at least 30 gallon capacity, with a sandy or fine gravel substrate, some river rock formations, driftwood roots, and plenty of free swimming space.  These fish quickly grow big and tall,  and require as much tank space as possible.  The general rule for keeping angelfish is to provide 8 or 9 gallons of tank space per fish and because they can become quite territorial as they mature, to keep them in small groups of threes.   Six angelfish in a densely planted 55 gallon aquarium would make a nice display tank.

Because they are shy and timid, a densely planted tank is essential to keeping Silver Zebra Angelfish healthy and happy.   Amazon sword plants (Echinodorus) or other large leaved plants are preferred to give the fish places to hide, lay their eggs on, and to keep them calm.   Some driftwood is also beneficial to maintain water quality and provide them cover.

All Angelfish require good water quality and some water movement.   External canister filter are a good choice for this species.   In smaller tanks, an outside filter augmented with a small powerhead will also do an efficient job of maintaining water quality.

All angelfish are egg layers that form nuclear families.   In the wild they are open breeders and spawn on submerged leaves.  Because they are difficult to sex, the best way to breed the Silver Zebra Angelfish is to place a small school of 4 to 8 fish in a tank and let them pair off.  They become sexually mature in about 6 to 12 months, usually when they are about 2 inches in length.

Once you identify a pair, place a piece of slate, a flowerpot, or a large leafed plant into the aquarium in an area where there is a moderate amount of water flow where the pair can deposit their eggs.    Start conditioning them by feeding them a diet of protein rich foods and keep the water in the breeding tank at a pH of 6.5, a hardness of about 5° dGH, and a temperature of between 80 to 85° F.

When ready to breed, the female will lay about 1000 or more eggs on a carefully cleaned surface.   A leaf, angled piece of slate, flowerpot, or the side of the aquarium.   When the female deposits her eggs, the male will follow behind her and fertilize them.    If the parents don’t immediately eat the eggs, the eggs will hatch in 3 or 4 days and the tiny fry will be free swimming in about a  week.   Feed the fry newly hatched baby brine shrimp for the first week or two until they are able to eat finely crushed flake food on their own.

If the parents do not immediately eat their eggs, they will carefully guard them and the fry until they are able to fend for themselves.   Although the parents will swim around the tank with a shoal of tiny fry in tow until the fry are eating on their own,  it’s a good idea to remove the fry into a rearing tank to ensure that the parents don’t turn on them.

Being omnivores, Silver Zebra Angels need to be fed a variety meaty and vegetable based foods.   A quality flake food fed as a staple with live, frozen, and freeze dried bloodworms, brine shrimp, tubifex, blackworms, etc. will keep your angelfish health and happy.

Silver Zebra Angelfish are usually readily available for sale when they are approximately 3/4″ to 3″ in length.

Silver Zebra Angelfish (Pterophyllum scalare)

Minimum Tank Size: 30 gallons
Care Level: Easy
Temperament: Semi-aggressive
Aquarium Hardiness: Hardy
Water Conditions: 75-82° F, KH 1-5, pH 5.8-7.0
Max Size: 6″
Color Form: Black, Tan, White
Diet: Omnivore
Compatibility: Community Tanks
Origin: Amazon and Orinoco River Basins
Family: Cichlidae
Life Span: 10-15 years
Aquarist Experience Level: Beginner

The Black Shark (Labeo chrysophekadion) is also known to tropical fish keeping enthusiasts as the Black Shark Minnow or Black Labeo.   It is widely distributed throughout Southeast Asia and is found in the Mekong basin in Laos, Thailand, Cambodia, and Vietnam, the Dong Nai drainage in Vietnam, the Chao Phraya and Mae Klong systems in Thailand, and other smaller watersheds in southern Thailand, Peninsular Malaysia, and the Greater Sunda Islands of Borneo, Sumatra, and Java, Indonesia.

Black Sharks are found in large river channels, smaller river tributaries, canals, and in flooded plains during the rainy season. Adults forage in the floodplains and make seasonal migrations to breed in the upstream areas of their ranges.

Black Shark (Labeo chrysophekadion)

In many parts of their range, the Black Shark is utilized as a food fish.

They can grow to three feet in length and in an aquarium environment are suitable only for very large home aquariums or public aquarium.

Black Sharks are often sold in the aquarium trade to tropical fish keeping enthusiasts as juveniles, but they quickly outgrow their surroundings and become belligerent and aggressively territorial towards conspecifics and similarly shaped fish, especially when space is at a premium.

This is one fish that should not be kept in a community tank with fish smaller than itself or anything that is delicate in nature.   Because of it’s aggressiveness and territorial behavior, it is best kept in a single species tank.   Although it is possible to keep them with other robust, similar sized, fast moving, mid-level species, they should be introduced into the tank last, after all the other tank inhabitants have settled in.   Even then, the fish will bully other bottom dwelling species.

Despite it’s unsuitability for home aquariums, an albino form of the Black Shark has been selectively bred for just for this purpose.

Aside from providing an extremely large tank, if you plan on keeping a Black Shark in an aquarium environment; a large mature filtration system, a rigorous maintenance regime comprised of weekly 50-70% water changes, and highly oxygenated water with some degree of water movement is considered mandatory maintenance for the species. They will also need a sandy or fine gravel substrate, some river rock and smaller boulders preferably formed into caves for them to hide among, some hardy plants like Java Fern or Anubias spp., some driftwood roots and plenty of swimming space.

In their natural environment, the Black Shark is primarily an aufwuchs grazer that feeds on algae, insect larvae, worms, small crustaceans, etc. In an aquarium environment they should be provided regular meals of live or frozen bloodworms, Daphnia, tubifex and brine shrimp, along with a good quality dried flake food or granule. They also need fresh plant material in their diet such as blanched cucumber, spinach, shelled peas, etc. Because they are grazers, they should be fed several times a day rather than a single feeding.

The Black Shark is difficult to sex and has not yet been bred in an aquarium environment.

Juvenile Black Shark are usually available online and from specialty fish shops at reasonable prices from 1 3/4″ to 3 1/2″ in size.

Labeo chrysophekadion

Minimum Tank Size: 125 gallons
Care Level: Moderate
Temperament: Highly Aggressive
Aquarium Hardiness: Hardy
Water Conditions: 76-82° F, KH 10-15, pH 6.5-7.5
Max Size: 26″
Color Form: Black
Diet: Omnivore
Compatibility: Single species tank
Origin: Southeast Asia, Malaysia, Indonesia
Family: Cyprinidae
Life Span: 20 years or more
Aquarist Experience Level: Intermediate